scalman

so yh found out that myself when i bought used GC 01 rear axle and tried to put it in my car and as soon as i put top link it locked and didint moved more down, where my existing axle do go down and dont lock means its shorter and that GC one is slightly longer then yes ? so anyone knows what other years or models axles are shorter or longer , so i wouldnt make this mistake again. i mean i will use that GC one still just will take it apart and use CV's from that . and now i was using GK axle in rear so from GK impreza it fits me still but from GC is too long. that goes why i need wheel spacers and such thats for how much that axle is pushed inside . well longer links would solve those both problems i guess with axles and wheel spacers.

so with a lift at least in my year model rear suspension more you lift car more wheel goes inside more it pushes axle inside. so what if it become too long and binds or locks ? just found out that myself. bought oem rear axle and it was writen GC 01 , so i thought nothing bad of it , tried to replace and as soon as i put top link it locks and wont go down it just moves slight and locks thats it ... so that GC 01 rear axle is longer then ? because then i put back my that i used and i think it was from GK impreza and it was fine , flexing down as before, then i put GC one and it locked again . well its first time for me so know i will know. just wish i knew it before to not buy GC axles for my lifted outback.

well 6cm will done fine for now. if those CV's will go bad or something i could remove that 1cm from tube there and make then 5cm again if needed. and rear is keeping it height maybe because of those self levels still there and still working. i will look for other car when this will become unfixeable in rear. i will try still do some steel welding there as most important places , if no go then sure if its not safe to drive i wont drive it anymore.

Nah dont think raptor fits me at all. Jeep wj i would think more for me with quadra drive , price is ok but lots on petrol or even lpg. I saw how good those newer grands wh/wk doing offroad with quadra drive 2 both e lockers too. No need any mods just some lift and tires maybe. Talking here about price 4-5k euros no more . its a lot for me still. Wj would be just some 1.5-3k . but scary thing is what if it money eater. Subaru is very cheap to maintain and drive

changed front lift spacers from 5cm to 6cm ... and then i did looked at it and thought : why not go 7cm then ? and thats best thing to do after youv done wheel alignment for 25 euros... but i did same as it was before. well almost same , even they at lignment couldnt do camber on zero so they left it at 0.30 that was maximum they could move it . s owhats point to even pay money for them.

so ride is bad ? and i need car for long travels and that car would control and feel on road well ? what aboput newer WJ model then of grand , not just simple sherokee. or newer WK with independant front suspension , that supose to be then better on road is it ? i need more overland car that if i would feel i could get with it thousands km without problem failures and such. Here 2000-2004 goes for similar prices as same years grand sherokee's , but 2005-2010 grands here are cheaper then same year outbacks. But for that year car i would need get loan for like 6 years and pay for it monthly .

cool . so youv tried that old grand sherokee and how you find it ? well not for jumping sure but as normal off road car with some lift and large tires and right gearbox where you can choose 2wd , part time , full time and low it must be awesome and they very soft to drive very boaty feeling in them no ? and it would have much more choises as project there are so many things for them

before i will go to more serious wet off roads i need to seel some my rear from all stuff coming from outside. winter with salt did its job

march 25 march 26

it is great indeed even with simple VDC it does the trick to no let tires spin, on hard suface without diagonals its great.

last sources of snow in forest areas thats how much it can flex there front wheels allready lost some traction its nice how much you not care with cut bumpers about stuff. you wanna try go up some angle you do it. with forester that would be more easy but with outbacks need to be more modification done bumpers remove or at least cut. not things that will touch ground first are sides

and it will still work with original axles ?

so how much drop now this allow ? like how much more then with stock links ?

that 4eat is like tank strong and reliable and more power to it it just better. turbo wouldnt do much here i think . just more money to pay. i drove with forester club that have like half turbo models well 2.0 turbo and they didint do much in mud still not much more then me anyway. on some places i was just cruising buy and they need to floor it . none of them had sway bars removed , so i guess i got more travel or flex... later they said me that im just driving like its nothing ...calm face and all...

so at first you had those tow place and recovery welded but then you covered all that with skid plate ? so how you get to them ? those welded tubes on sides are for hi lift ? did any testing how they hold ? is that air box on side that come out so you need to cover it ? why not remove it and just make some straight tube to air filter passing that box.

its nice that in some places you can drive like that on road legaly. i was thinking making something similar but hide it under my cut plastic bumper , just for strenght but it would need be invisiable, but then i still hit or even touched nothing yet with my cut bumpers as they are, they just too high .

but your start to wearing them just when you max them. not on the roads as i understand. but sure i get it whats problem there and for me i use it mostly on roads not off them so i need car being reliable still to make hundreds km without problem. with 2'' lift i did euro trip 5500km's with tires not made for good roads only, so that proved that allready.

So in theory if i put say another 1 cm as strut spacers in rear it shouldnt be any problem if that link still has space and if cv axle angles are not too bad. Wonder why people say 2" is max limit for those outbacks is it just because cv angles.

Oldschool recovery tracks

found that in rear upper link almost maxed out allready with that 2'' lift. if it would go more down it would hit frame allready or am i wrong there ?

another VDC test more like torturing VDC as snow on top was frozen enough to hold car but under it was soft snow so when car sinks down its hard for it to get out, and VDC worked hard to find ways to move car using all 4 wheels. maybe last days when ground is still frozen as its getting warmer now day by day some exhaust fixing

Went out with local forester club. Was fun just worst surface as still left snow but its melting and ground under is allready soft mud so after you dig trough snow you go into soft mud. Was just berely enough ground clearance and when i went to soft mud was just flooring pedal to floor on 1st gear to not get stuck. Got stuck once and twice recovered other cars behind me with kinetic rope. Was good test to my rear new recovery places and nothing bend or broke. Front and rear cut bumpers where great idea and they never maxed or touched but exaust in middle had some touching problems as for most i guess. Have some ideas how to moke exhaust tube mote inside car so it wont be lowest part to hit. As for lift front arm havr just some 2-3 cm until axle will hit it so no more lift , same for rear that uper control arm is almost maxed as well.

i was told that zink spray after weld is best option and later you can paint it . not sure about it as you can spray just fron outside and inside still rust there as i understand. what is best rust protection for you ?

sure no prob. let us know how its going with that car what your plans for it .