MrB

Hello I have now gone through an entire tank of fuel and no check engine light. It seems the fuel cap was the culprit. Thanks again and I hope someone finds this helpful

if it happens again I will check those things. In other reading I found a few instances where this same issue was caused by a fuel cap not being tightened properly. I disconnected the bat negative for about 20 min to erase codes, then reconnected the battery unscrewed and re-tightened the cap, turned the key to on for about 45sec. but did not start the car. Then I started the car, it did not start well and was a little funny with the throttle/clutch application at first. Apparently the computer has to "relearn" the sensors. I have driven it about 70 miles now and it has steadily improved with no check engine light. I have just today filled the tank and I think tightened the fuel cap enough. We will see. Thanks to you all and I will update

what is "cts"? Now the CE light is on and Cruise is flashing, and this all happened after filling the fuel tank

I just bought a 2007 Outback 2.5 base model. Two days in it has started surging at idle from about 600 rpm to 1000-1200 rpm for about 1 second and then drops to 200ish rpm then back to 600. It then stays there for 20 sec. or so and repeats the cycle. I can feel a slight surge in throttle for the same duration while driving at a steady speed with and without cruise control on. Could this be as simple as wires or O2 sensor? Thanks

So far the new wires are doing the trick. I think I do need a an Idle control valve but that seems to be only at start up. Engine revs to about 2200 then drops to about 500 then back to 1500 down to 600 then evens out b/w 800 and 1000

I found that a plug wire had a short in it I replaced them about 9 months ago so I didn't suspect them. I replaced them and the car seems to be running normally again. I'll wait for a few miles to get excited but hopefully this was the issue. Thanks again to all of you

I really hope it's not a bad valve guide or a compression leak. I thought that too but was hoping denial might fix it. Not that it has ever worked in the past but you know, (If at first you don't succeed). I'll try the wires and filters first and go from there thanks. Oh I noticed today that the tach jumps +- 200 rpm while driving at a steady speed with cruise on, related possibly?

ok thanks tooth count checks out and I found out that since I have the 3 prong TPS there is no adjustment necessary. So now I really have no idea what's going on.

Thanks, I have installed new plugs and it has helped some mostly at idle, and I can press a little harder on gas before issues start now. I'll try the wires next. I looked at the timing and when the two cam marks line up the crank is off one tooth either forward or back, ie it wont line up perfectly. is this an issue? Could the belt be on backwards? Is that even a thing?

I am new to this forum, hopefully I am in the right place. I have a 95 Legacy with 250,000 miles and lately cylinder 2 has been misfiring at idle (at least the diagnostic comp. says so) and when I try to accelerate quickly from any speed, though its worse when the engine is below 2000rpm, it feels like there is too much gas and the engine just bogs. Sometimes it will buck and occasionally it will actually run fine but not for long. I have recently replaced the timing belt after it broke and have triple checked that the timing marks are lined up. The TPS went bad and so I replaced that but this issue was happening before. Does anyone have an Idea what is going on?