4WDFrenzy

The far left is indeed a Subaru application. The one in the middle is appears to be from an 80's 280Z turbo, and the one on the right is from a 2.2L Turbocharged Ford Probe/Mazda MX-6(which if I remember right, even the Probe had a Mazda motor). -Patrick

I whole heartedly agree with you. I wonder the same thing. The engine that is in my wagon is a used, low-mileage longblock(had less than 40,000). I have had no real major problems with it except for the timing idler. Other than that, it has been rock solid. As I stated before, if the garage that seviced your car warranties the engine and the work, I would have went the same route. -Patrick

Yeah, so now we as appreciaters of all things Subaru(old and new), get punished. Just look at what has happened, they gave us a rather un-Subaruish looking 2008 WRX and STI! Why?! WHHHHHHHHHHHHYYYYYY?!!! I agree though, those bastages should be sent to one of the US's "non-existent" political prison's for some good ol' American discipline and mental reprogramming! -Patrick

Yeah, I noticed that you seemed rather excited about your car again. I am just glad that I could contribute something to your project. I guess I'll just have to save my elbow grease for something else that needs cleaning and polishing(probably my wagon....lol).

Understood. -Patrick

Hey, I'm boxing it up as fast as I can! I'm only one man you slave driver! J/K That is what the turbo looks like, just not as pretty. I will try to clean it up a bit before I send it out. I hope this one gives you the performance that you are looking for. One day, I hope to come down and see that thing again in person, and might I add, the gloss black looks super sleek. Good Job! -Patrick

This can be said with anything. You can buy a brand new car off the lot from a dealership and it can have problems. So that really isn't an excuse. As the saying goes, "There is always a bad apple in the bunch." You may not know which one it is at first glance, but there is always one in there. As for the reason of the high ownership turnover rate/availability of low mileage engines, is because the Japanese government likes to get your money in several ways. The two most common forms are annual Road Tax and also JCI(Japanese Compulsory Insurance). Road tax is taken up every year and the amount that you pay is dependent on the vehicle weight/engine displacement. If you have an engine 2.0L or under, you pay about $75 USD or equivalent. Anything over that pays over $100 for road tax. Now if you drive a little moped, scooter, or motorcycle like most of the local nationals do, you would pay anywhere form $5 - $25 USD or equivalent. And to make matters worse, you have to pay for JCI renewal every 2 years, which is a rigourous top-to-bottom inspection of your vehicle to determine whether it is road worthy. It can cost upwards of $1400 USD to have it done! Now we as Americans, get off lucky and pay about half as much(around $700). So as you see, if you buy a car here, in most cases it isn't worth keeping it for longer than 2 years especially considering that the American dollar is worth more than the Japanese yen. This being said, most local nationals don't bother doing maintanence on their vehicles(unless they are automotive enthusiasts) that most Americans and others are used to, because they know that more than likely, in 2 years they will be driving a different vehicle. My point is, that if she decided to get a low-mileage used engine, and the shop is basically going to warranty the engine, then why argue. I'd pay the $1100 too and have some peace of mind.

My distributor wasn't removed either, but my car wouldn't start after we got everything back together. The only thing I did is disconnect the battery terminals from the battery. The point is, you may need to poke and prod things to find out what is wrong and as John said, you may have to check and re-check things. It is very easy to overlook things, especially electrical. A good rule of thumb is, never underestimate the things that can go wrong with a car that is 20 some-odd years old. It will only add to the frustration of the original problem.

You know, come to think of it, I had a similar problem when I changed my clutch in my GL-10. No sooner did we(my friend Spencer [who also happens to be the previous owner] and I) get the transmission bolted back to the engine and the battery hooked back up, it would start. I wound up having to have a him turn the distributor while I cranked the engine over. It took awhile, but we finally got it running close enough where I was able to drive it home, and then did a little more fine tuning when I got it there. I would try what John is suggesting. At this point, what do you have to lose, right? Give it a shot and let us know what happens. - Patrick

No, that is normal for a wagon. I know that my '88 GL-10 wagon is like that too. I thought it was out of the norm, but soon found out quite the opposite. - Patrick

Okay, well it is good that you already know about the timing belt situation in the Haynes manual. Anthony, I'm not sure what to tell you as this seems to be a very mystefying issue. I'll have to think about this one for a bit and get back to you. -Patrick

I think they look very nice myself. If I could have found a set for my wagon, you had better bet that no matter how curb checked they were(unless it messes with the tire bead), I'd roll them. Shoot, I really wish I could find a set of those old school Enkie wheels. I keep looking over here in Okinawa, but I just know that the locals probably have them all tucked away in their sheds, to keep them away from the "round-eyes." LOL

+1 for Timing. As you know, there are 3 things needed for combustion, Spark, Fuel, and Air. Well if you have spark and fuel, then you need air, which sounds like valve timing to me. John is right about the Haynes manual and the timing belt issue. They don't tell you about rotating the engine a full revolution after installing the first belt. But don't feel bad, you aren't the first person that this has happened to, and you probably won't be the last.(Hello Haynes, HELLO?!!!). -Patrick

Would it be too far-fetched to think that maybe you could take the whole rear seatbelt assembly(including the latch) from a Legacy, Impreza, etc and transplant the whole thing into a Loyale, GL-10, GL, or DL wagon? -Patrick

These photos and stuff are going to help me greatly. I think that this may be what is wrong with my GL-10 wagon. As soon as I can get back to the States, I will be tearing into it to find out what the deal is with it. kingbobdole, I'm sorry that this happened to you, but Thank You a whole lot for posting those pics. -Patrick

I second that. I had almost the same thing happen to me, only it let loose while I was doing 60mph on the highway. It didn't blow until I went to pass a slow car and got an intense antifreeze smell inside of the car. It's not an easy hose to replace without taking the intake manifold off, but it can be done with a long pair of needle nose pliers, a length of the correct size hose, and a little bit of diligence and gusto, all while the intake manifold is in place.

Wooo! My bad man! You don't have to be so grouchy about it. I was thinking the words pre-ignition and the other word for it detonation, then wound up typing pre-detonation. No need to blow a gasket over it. Besides, unless you are contributing something to the topic at hand, you might think twice about posting, or at least just say nicely,"Hey, you may have misspelled something. It is pre-ignition, not pre-detonation." Geez............. Anyway, an intercooler on these engines is the way to go. You increase the engine reliability greatly with one. Your engine will Thank You for it!

Sub Speed 559, it sounds like your timing may be way too far advanced. Let me ask this before I jump to conclusions about what is wrong with your car, how much boost are you running? Also, what rpm are you wringing it out to before you shift? Some of the old school sube's won't take more than between 10-12 psi before they start hitting fuel cut. Others(the lucky one's) can go well over 12psi with no inherent fuel cut problems. If you have your boost turned up too high, this could be the problem. Patrick

I can't count the times that I have gotten stupid looks for driving my GL-10, but I don't care. The car fits me like a glove. I love everything about it. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't trade it for anything. I will keep that thing running until they quit making parts for it, and even then, I'll figure out a way to keep it running. It's my favorite car in the world! Patrick

I am interested already! I don't know how long my car will take to be complete as I am still trying to get between 200-220 crank horsepower. I've kinda given up on the idea of getting 200 at the wheels. Even if I could get it, I just know that I'd end up popping a headgasket or breaking all the expensive stuff. All I can say is, Caleb, Thank You very much for all of your help and hospitality!!!

Wha...........? Have you found a subaru goldmine somewhere in Texas? The luckiest I have ever been was finding a carby DL in a local junkyard back in Wichita Falls. I thought about purchasing it as it was in better condition than my GL-10 at the time, and then just swap over all the stuff from the GL-10 chassis to the DL. But my inner "Tinkerer" wouldn't allow me to spend the money. I have been trying to find old subarus over here(to get parts from of course), but the best that I can come up with was a couple of 90 something SVXs. Both are in very good running condition, but the owners refuse to sell(one a Japanese national and the other an American).

If only I lived closer. I'm from Texas, but kinda trapped in Okinawa, Japan right now. Darn the luck! I hope that you are able to sell it. Kudos to whomever gets this awesome setup! Patrick

I'm not sure who this was directed to, but Scott, make it home safe bud. As for me, I'm not quite sure when. Projected date is APRIL 2009. But if things keep going the way they're going now(long story), I might be home alot sooner. I'm still running the non-spider manifold(unfortunately), but I am hopeful to stumble across one, well one of these days anyway. If not then I might be sending my non-spider off to get extrude honed, just depends on funds. Patrick

Thank You very much for the info. It was very informative and gave me the insight that I need to make my decision. I guess I should have clarified about the FPR, it does increase fuel pressure with an increase in air pressure. I tested it awhile back when I first started increasing the fuel pressure on the stock injectors, and I remember watching the gauge go up as the engine revved(with the car in neutral and the hood open (obviously)). I do, however, have an old school fuel computer(Field SFC) that I plan on installing along with an EBC(Greddy Profec A) to replace my MBC. My car is intercooled too(one of the first things that I did to it), but I even have a new intercooler for it(flows a bit better + more surface area). The only things that I am really worried about right now are the injectors and also the exhaust, which will get upgraded from 2-1/4" crush bent piping(TBE) to all 2-1/2" diameter mandrel bent piping. So I think that the ol' Draggin' Wagon will be in for a nice power increase.

Okay, I'm just trying to find out which injectors are going to be the better choice for my EA82T. I plan on ordering some 280Z injectors, but I was just wondering whether I should order the Turbo Z injectors or the N/A Z injectors? Which would be the better choice considering that I have no aftermarket Fuel Management, other than the stock ECU and an adjustable FPR? If anyone can give me your opinion(other than the old "just do an EJ swap" comment), I'd greatly appreciate it. Patrick The Polls are now open!