Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

4WDFrenzy

Members
  • Posts

    834
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 4WDFrenzy

  1. My friend, it sounds to me like you are hitting that infamous wall known as "FUEL CUT" or "Boost Cut" as they call it here in Japan. More than likely, there is too much air and not enough fuel. I've hit it a couple of times in my GL-10 wagon when I had the boost set above 11psi on the stock turbo(VF7). Check to see what the boost is set at on the TD04. If it has the adjustable actuator arm, you may have to lengthen the rod(unscrew it a bit) to lower the boost to where the car doesn't hit fuel cut. But as a side note, it never hurts to upgrade the injectors. Nissan 280ZX injectors are supposed to be a plug-n-play swap according to what I have read. Mix those and an adjustable FPR and you should be a good for awhile. Just remember to use a wideband O2 sensor to get AFRs where they need to be. Hope this helps. Patrick
  2. I ran nothing but 93 in my GL-10 and I have an intercooler, fenderwell intake, and adjustable FPR. I completely agree with Caleb and Brian. It is always a good rule of thumb to run premium or the highest octane available(I'm not talking about 110 octane race gas, for those of you who have it readily available;) ) in you area. It prevents pre-detonation(aka "ping"), which is a killer of turbocharged engines, especially modified ones. Patrick
  3. The stock flow rate for EA82T injectors is 180cc/min and the stock FPR rating is 36psi, and that is at max. As for static pressure, I have no idea. So far, you are moving in the right direction. Good Job! Patrick
  4. Incidentally, the resistor pack is more than the dealer price on Autozone.com, coming in at $57.99. http://www.autozone.com/N,15201160//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm The relay is not so bad, at $12.99, for those of you who want a brand new one. http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1349100/vehicleId,1083601/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,5229/partType,01321/shopping/partProductDetail.htm
  5. Well, not to shoot down your thought, but whenever you get a company to make something that we would consider "worthwhile" for our old subarus, they always want an arm, leg, liver, kidney(which they may or may not get you all drugged up, take while your out of it, and leave you a help message written in lipstick on your chest while you chill in a bathtub of ice), and your first born child. Now I'm not trying to say that they wouldn't make the stuff, but they usually want a big order to start producing them. I think Will(WJM, here on the forums) had found something a little while back where he did a group buy on some urethane bushings. Not many people order because they don't have the kind of money that the comanies are asking. Patrick
  6. I second that. Since the TPS sensor is already on the car, you might want to check it first. I forgot to mention that I checked mine before getting on the forum and having a pump change recommended. Now if you have a bad sensor, be prepared for a bigger shock, since they aren't exactly cheap, brand new. When I checked at the loacal AutoZone in Wichita Falls, TX, they were singing somewhere to the tune of $200 plus for the stupid TPS sensor. I don't know if prices have fallen since, but I was so happy when I found out that my TPS wasn't bad. Patrick
  7. No retrofit required. All you have to do is get the universal pump kit. It supposed to come with the brass fuel fittings for the inlet and outlet of the pump. If you can't find one, just order a Walbro pump kit(high pressure style) and go to the autoparts store and get the fittings, which should net you under $5 for the fittings, depending on you locale. Patrick
  8. No, I didn't test the old pump at all. I just swapped it out with the new one since at the time, my wagon couldn't be down for long periods of time, considering it was the only car we had at the time. But like I said, after swapping the pump out, the problem went away.
  9. Happy Birthday!!!! Hope the next year of your life brings very good things with it. Have a good one! Patrick
  10. I had a similar problem with my GL-10 before my wife got us stuck over here in Okinawa. I searched the forum and many of the more experienced guys pointed to the fuel pump beign the potential problem. So I changed it out, and guess what? The surging went away. I am not saying that the same thing that was wrong with mine could be the problem with yours, but if you are still running the OEM fuel pump that came with the car, you might try changing that out first. Also, if you have the money to invest in a Walbro high pressure pump(255lph), do it. I had to buy an aftermarket replacement from Autozone, because at the time it was my daily driver.But one of the things I have planned when I get back, is to replace it with a Walbro unit. Patrick
  11. Goodness that is a long list of mods! That is pretty awesome if I do say so myself!
  12. Lucky Duck!! Wish mine had started out with 140 at the crank. I just wonder if the horsepower produced is a result of ECU programming or if it is the actual engine? The reason I say this is because my car has a low mileage JDM engine in it now(The original was replaced due to cracked heads).
  13. This is exactly my point. It won't roast the tires, but if I don't release the clutch at the right time(as in, release it kinda late), it just spins tires. May be due to bad motor & diff mounts for all I know. They were getting close to time to change them anyway. But one thing I am looking for while I'm over here, are wheel spacers. Nothing super thick where I will have to change the wheel studs, but something to help widen the stance a bit for a little better traction. I am also looking into the widest tread tires that will fit on the stock 13s.
  14. Oh yeah, and just for the record, when I mean losing traction, I mean there isn't much forward motion, and all you can hear is the sound of tires trying to grab pavement( not tires screaching either).
  15. I kid you not about losing traction, but then again, it is still riding on the stock 13" wheels with new, non-performance, skinny tires.
  16. Okay I have to make a guess(I'm dying to know). I'm guessing that you are installing a front mount intercooler(WRX FMIC kit maybe?) and you need to clock the compressor housing to make the piping fit properly. There. That is my guess for the day.(C'mon, C'mon, Daddy needs a new pair of shoes!!! or a Cookie will suffice!)
  17. No worries about that. That was one of the first things that I did when I began modding the car. I looked at the wastegate opening and immediately got to work porting. I also took the liberty to shape the inlet port on the exhust side of the turbo as well. I still need to polish the compressor housing first before I decide whether to send it out to have any extrude honing done. Right now the car has all of this: 2.25" TBE(including CATCO high-flow cat) Custom bellmouth downpipe SRP manual boost controller(running 11psi) adjustable FPR(43psi) Mitsubishi Starion Intercooler(Top mounted) 160* Thermostat WRX hood scoop Recirculating BOV 3" custom fenderwell intake w/ Blitz knock-off stainless steel airfilter + MAF adapter New fuel Pump(91psi line pressure)*not sure about flow rate* RhinoPac HD clutch kit That is just what the car has right at the moment. I am going to be changing some things when I get back to the States. But these mods are enough to spin the tires(and I mean completely lose traction) through 3rd gear at WOT from a dead stop. Kinda fun, but not so much for the tires.
  18. I just like to tinker. Yeah, I plan on sending it off an having it extrude honed. I like the results that I have seen from extrude honing and think that it may be beneficial to the VF7.
  19. Well, this thread has certainly gotten legs and run! So far, I've only gotten useful info from a couple of people, mainly the ones saying that the TD05 would not be the turbo of choice for the EA engine. I had a feeling that it would be a mid to top end power turbo, so it looks as thought my TD05H will be up for sale soon then(any takers, anyone?). If I can't find a TD04 for a decent price, I'll just get the big compressor kit for my VF7 and have the exhaust housing Extrude Honed and Jet Hot coated and just stick with my 11psi boost level. As far as sticking with the EA goes, I'm not swapping. I thought about it, but when it comes down to it, I just don't feel like doing any rewiring. Call me lazy, but I just don't feel like it. Besides, if I blow one up, then I can just drop another in and keep on going. I'm not saying anything bad about the EJ because I know the potential of the EJ. But I just like the age old EA82T. Besides, I just want a little more, efficient and useable power. I'm not building a dyno queen or anything. Just enough power that when I have a full car, it doesn't feel like a Geo Metro when I'm trying to pass on the highway. I'm already getting 280ZX turbo injectors, I have a larger intercooler, looking for a larger radiator, will be upgrading my exhaust from the turbo back(again), along with having a custom exhaust manifold made. Also to come is an Extrude Honed intake manifold and possibly a "new" used EA82T(depending on what's wrong with the one I have in my GL-10 now). It will be a job, but I'm getting myself psyched up to do it.
  20. I agree with Ben. Silverstars are the brightest bulbs that I have ever had the pleasure of using. They use stock wattage so no chance of frying wires, unless you have electrical gremlins. +1 for the Silverstars! Patrick
  21. I plan on getting a custom header made when I get back to the States(only about a year and a half to go:banana: ). I like the stock turbo because it seems to spool relatively fast, but it just doesn't move a good amount of air without producing lots of heat. I have my stock VF7 overboosted to 11psi, and Thank GOD I was able to install a huge intercooler(mistubishi starion) on it. But now I'm in the hunt for more power and happened to get my hands on this TD05. So that is what sparked my interest.
  22. Okay, so the title is my question. I recently acquired a TD05H from a GC8 body STi. I am wondering if it will be too much turbo for the little EA82T to handle or should I try out the big compressor kit that I saw on fleaBay the other day? It claims to be for the IHI VF7 and comes with the compressor wheel and ported compressor housing. I realize that the EA82T isn't the strongest motor(i.e. paper thin cylinder walls, semi weak headgaskets, etc.). Either way, I want to install a bigger turbo in my GL-10. What do you guys think? Which would you choose? Patrick
  23. Aaaaaaaha!! Someone else finally wondered the same thing about the ugliest line of cars ever produced by Subaru too! I thought I was the only one subjected to this crime against Subarus. I see them, well at least the Impreza models) alot over here in Okinawa. I want to hurl each time I see one. And people thought that the Tribeca was ugly! The good thing is, it only appears to be an add-on kit, so rehabilitating one(putting normal parts on it) looks fairly easy. Nissan also had a similar thing going on with the March. Kinda weird, but hey, that seems to be the Japanese way.
×
×
  • Create New...