4WDFrenzy

HOLY COW!!! Good Job man! That is so awesome! I bet there were alot of ticked off people after that run! Congrats on the good numbers! The other WRXs were most likely bone stock, or close to it. Sport Compact Car dynoed a stock WRX a few years back and it came back with 189WHP and 199lb-ft. of torque. The '06 WRXs only come with 3 more horsepower at the crank in the turbo EJ25 engine(230HP) than the previous EJ20T(227HP). So those numbers are right on par with a stock WRX. If they did have any aftermarket offerings attached, then they must have had a really lousy tune on their vehicles, especially the guy who had the Cobb stage II kit. Those numbers should have been in the 220-230HP range with that installed. But who knows though! Anyway, Congratulations again!!!! Patrick

IIRC, the tranny takes 4 or 5 quarts, and the rear diff takes like 3 or 4, but I could be wrong. It has been awhile since I changed the fluids in my GL-10, so don't quote me on those numbers. They might give you a starting point though. Patrick

Royal Purple does make some great gear lubes. The line is called Max-Gear. It exceeds GL-4 and GL-5 lubricant performance standards, and if I remember correctly, Subaru trannies require fluid that meets GL-5 standards. As soon as I get back Stateside, I plan on changing all the fluids my GL-10 over to Royal Purple products. As for the rear diff, it takes the same fluid as the manual transmission(usually 80W90).

Caleb, you're very welcome. I stumbled across this site while I was looking for another EA82T, in the case that the one in my GL-10 now is on it's way out. But lately, I've been thinking more and more about doing an EJ20T swap. I guess I could just wait to see if I will be able to import my 95 WRX wagon or not. Because if not, The good ol' Draggin' Wagon will be getting an EJ20T with full wiring harness, fuse box, ecu, etc.

Hey everyone. I found a site today that sells EA82Ts at a good price IMHO. I know that many of you(along with myself) have been experimenting with the EA82T to see what it's limits are. In saying that, if you are part of the multitude who has blown up your motor and are in need of a new(well, not really NEW, more like new to you:D ) engine, here is a website that sells them: http://www.ni-mo.com/subaru.htm Best of all, if you have been thinking about doing an EJ swap, they sell them too!!!! I just figured that I would let everyone know about this! Patrick

Well, she's fixed!!! Finally!!! The mechanics said that they changed all the fluid and the clunking and binding miraculously went away. Guess all she was wanting was a fluid flush and filter change. Patrick

I just bought the car in used condition on the 29th of last month with relatively low miles on it. The other day was the first time I tried pulling the dipstick. I have no earthly idea how the previous owner treated the car as it came from mainland Japan. I had just figured that maybe the dipstick is stuck from the vent pipe for the front diff being plugged or clogged, resulting in the dipstick, well, sticking! As far as torque bind, yeah, I do get it, but only during sharp turns and low speed cornering(right or left). I added some transmission fluid to the tranny after not being able to get an accurate reading on the fluid level. The torque bind seemed to improve a little(the feeling and noise were not as intense) and the transmission also changed gears a whole lot smoother. The fluid looked good, but was just a bit on the pale pink side, with no noticeable burnt odor. The tires are the same diameter, but one is an odd man out as far as brand. The tread pattern is different on it(directional). These were the tires that the car came with. I'm just assuming that this could be a potential problem, eh? Anyway, good news abounds today. I took the car back to the dealerships garage and the mechanics believe that they know what is wrong with it. Seems that just a week prior, they had a Forester(turbocharged) whose transmission was doing the exact same thing and they were able to fix it. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed on this one.

So you ran over a silver haired old lady, eh?

Hey guys, Thanks a Million for the replies. I couldn't figure out for the life of me what the heck it was for, and why it wouldn't come out. I'm one who likes to "get to know" my vehicles so that I know what everything does. If it would've been loose enough for me to remove, I probably wouldn't be here asking such a stupid question. So goes life, I guess. Anyway, I am kinda getting what feels like torque bind while turning sharply and was wondering if this could be a result of low gear oil in the front diff? Could that also be the reason that the dipstick won't come out(vacuum created from lack of fluid)? I guess I'll have to get underneath the car this evening and see if I can get the dipstick unstuck. I was wondering also, is there supposed to be a vent pipe for the front differential? Patrick

Hello all. I have a quick, and possibly stupid question concerning the 4EAT automatic transmission in my 95 Impreza WRX wagon. I am a noob with the automatic transmissions in Subarus so please, I beg of you to bear with me. I know where the transmission fluid dipstick is, but my question is this, what is the dipstick on the left-hand side of the transmission for? The reason that I ask is that it seems to be stuck and I cannot remove it. If anyone could please shed some light on this subject, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thank You all for your time. Patrick

LED fog lights are not what you may think. Since I live here in Japan, I have lots of access to these types of lights and also other types of LEDs. Anyway, the LED fogs are marker lights, meaning they are more like a safety light than a functional fog light. The Japanese use these on their road safety, construction, and also utility vehicles(on front and rear) to prevent people from running into them while doing work during low visibility and lighting conditions. Unless you find an LED fog light setup that contains some LUXEON K2(6.5watt) LEDs, I'd stick with incandescent bulbs or even High Intensity Discharge(HIDs) bulbs as they will have more useable light. Also, I have an LED bulb in my Starlet Glanza V's domelight that has something like 12 LEDs. Needless to say, this bulb will be coming home with me to go into my GL-10. It is bright as who knows and what did it!

Hey Will, Make with the pictures already!!! I'm eagerly waiting to see what this setup looks like! PLEASE?! Pretty PLEASE?!!!!!

Hey Nipper, Thank You for these sites. I appreciate it. We are going to try to hang on to this one long enough for the government to ship it back for free, since it isn't on the "No Ship" list.

They have since turned it to RHD. I can't remember what year the transition happened, but it is back to RHD again. And incidentally, we are stationed at Kadena Air Base(KAB). Believe it or not, there are more Toyotas and Nissans running around than Subarus. As a matter of fact, I am selling my 1996 Toyota Starlet Glanza V since acquiring the WRX. It was a small, but peppy little car. The thing weighs next to nothing and comes with a 1.3L turbocharged and intercooled(TMIC) engine. I did all sorts of mods to that thing(TRD fully adjustable suspension, Greddy FMIC, Field SFC, Boost controller, etc.). It was fun, but I needed to get back to my roots. Besides, I am a firm believer in controlling the Toyota and Nissan population. Someone needs to spay or neuter them every once in awhile!

Yeah, it is RHD. Pretty fun car, even with the automatic tranny. Autos are very common these days, mainly because there are stop lights every 40 yards or so.

When did you have the wagon for sale? Where the heck was I during all this? Back on topic, I have no idea of what the lightest weight of an EA82 is. Patrick

I would buy a 3" downpipe from a WRX, but I want to get a TD04 bolted in place before I do that. In that way, it will bolt straight onto the exhaust outlet of the turbo. But for now, I think I will just have them build a crush bent 3" one off job for the VF7(which may or may not be too big). In that way, I can still use part of my custom bellmouth downpipe. Well, at least the part closest to the turbos exhaust outlet. As far as the headers, I plan on having one of the local exhaust shops build my header for me. Actually, I'm going to have them redo my whole exhaust system, complete with high flow cats and flex joints. I just want better flow and better breathing in the higher RPMs. But I'll remember to let them know about the oil pump clearance issue so they don't screw up(which I doubt they will). Patrick

Those crazy cab drivers. Let me tell you, they have the right of way no matter where or how they are driving. That has got to be a fun job! Anyway, no, I'm not in the military. Well at least not yet as I'm still weighing the pros and cons. My wife is though(Air Force). It's an okay place to be stationed, but I miss the open roads of the United States.

I double posted. I'm an idiot.:-\

Well my friend, it sounds like you are in for a turbo rebuild, unfortunately. You may have to do a little searching around on the internet to find a shop that will do it. You may also want to check the classified section here on the USMB as some members have used VF7s and VF4s that are still in good, usable condition for sale. Patrick

Shoot, it would almost be worth the trouble to cut the exhaust manifold mounting flanges off too and just have a custom manifold built. Of course, the only downside is that you would have to have the car there to make sure that everything matches up, but at least you would be guaranteed an increase in power production, not to mention better breathing up top. That is my plan when I get back stateside. I also plan on having a 3" turbo-back exhaust made(since it will be crush bent). Patrick

Which intake tube are you refering to? Is it the one with the cast aluminum piece that says "Subaru 4WD" on it, or are you talking about the inlet pipe that comes from the airbox to the tubocharger? If it is the cast piece, it could very well be a blown seal in the compressor housing of the turbocharger. Otherwise, check your PCV valve and make sure that it isn't stuck open or plugged up. If by chance itis the PCV system, you might want to invest in an oil catch can to prevent further ingestion of oil. But beware, this could also be an early warning sign of something more serious(i.e. - mechanical failure within the engine). I hope this helps. Patrick

HOLY COW!!!! That is flippin' awesome!!! I imagine that thing runs like a scalded cat! Is that a WRX FMIC piping kit? Do you have any pics of your FMIC? I just love seeing Subarus with a nice set of braces!!! Patrick

Hey everyone, it has been a long, difficult stay here on this rock known as Okinawa. For the last year, I have watched as the locals have rolled around in Subarus, but couldn't find any at the local car lots. I thought all hope was lost until suddenly..................TADA!!!! I found a '95 Subaru Impreza WRX wagon! It is in very good condition and it seems to have low miles, but I'm not sure if the odometer has turned over or not(odometer shows 52,237 kms). The engine purrs quite well, and everything on it is still in stock trim(no signs of aftermarket parts installed or removed). The only thing that I'm not too thrilled about is that it has an automatic transmission. I already have plans to change the tranny fluid to Royal Purple MAX ATF and also the engine oil to Royal Purple as well. This car wasn't actually my first choice, but the '97 Subaru Legacy(twin turbo) was already sold by the time I sold my other car and began perusing the lot. But I guess that is just the way the ball bounces sometimes. Now I just have to find out if I can get it back to the States. If I can't, I know a little '88 Subaru GL-10 that will be in for a good bump up in power and reliability. I plan to do a couple upgrades and I promise to keep everyone posted.

If you really want to gain some "pony power", it will cost you money. I think 140hp is feasible with the proper upgrades and precautions(cooling). EA82Ts have a big problemo with heat, so adding an intercooler and maybe a step colder themostat(180* as opposed to 195*). Also adding an electric cooling fan + an adjustable thermoswitch for the fan would increase the reliability factor of the motor. But simple things like flushing the cooling system will help too. And you might think about adding some kind of fuel enrichment, like an adjustable FPR or adding some Nissan 280ZX injectors. These mods will help keep combustion chamber temps down and keep pre-ignition(detonation) in check. But I think to get that 140hp, you will definately need a boost controller of some sort. I think with around 9psi of boost and proper fueling, you will be able to achieve that rating with no problem. Patrick