4WDFrenzy

Nevermind. I just looked at the auction a bit closer and saw a 5 in front of where it says 90-94 Legacy in the application column. Sorry for the inconvenience. Patrick

Hey everyone. I was looking at the Subaru stuff for sale on Ebay and came across an auction for PowerSlot slotted rotors for the 90-94 Legacy:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-94-Subaru-LEGACY-Power-Slot-Front-Rotors_W0QQitemZ8025937380QQcategoryZ33564QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Have I been living in a cave or something? How long have these been out? LOL I feel as though I have been living in a time warp. Anyway, even though they are a bit pricey, I am seriously thinking about buying a set for my GL-10. I just wanted to check here and make sure that the bolt patterns for the hubs are the same. Can anyone confirm this for me please? I'd greatly appreciate it. Thank You all for your time. Patrick

Okay, I agree with the V8s being cheaper to mod, but I disagree with what you said about the Skyline(hehe, I got something up my sleeve!). Most Nissan Skylines that you will encounter, aren't quite as fast as you would think. Some people in the street racing community have blown them up to be more powerful than what they really are. The RB20DET and RB25DET are the most common motors that you will find here(Skyline GTS-T & GTS2.5-T). They are about as common as Hondas are in the US. They aren't near the power monsters that we all believe them to be. Yes, like any car, they can be made fast with alot of time and money. But they aren't the fastest things on the road. The only Skyline that I would truely fear is the GTR(RB26DETT), especially when modded. It's the one that will blow your doors off, spank you, and then send you to bed with no dinner. There is another car on the road that can kill the Skyline if modded, and it will do it with stealth. The car is called the Mark II Tourer V(JZX90) and the 100 Series Chaser(JZX100), which is a subdivision of Toyota. This car comes with a 2.5L 1JZGTE twin turbo powerplant producing 280hp from the factory, runs a 13.6 quarter mile time(with an Automatic transmission) in stock trim, and with light mods(High-flow intake & free flowing exhaust) is a blood thirsty street killer. The funny thing is, it is a 4-door family car, rear wheel drive, with great handling and power straight out of the box! This car can reliably run around 600whp with completely stock internals. Here is a link to some pics:http://www.japanesesportcars.com/galleries/cat68.htm Here is some info on them: Chaser:http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/6604/ Tourer V:http://www.auto.vl.ru/catalog_eng/7941/ Now this is a true supercar!!! Patrick

WHOA! Not so fast there. What is your definition of "mild?" First off, mild to me, means adding something along the lines of cold-air intake, exhaust(including a header), and maybe, just maybe an adjustable FPR. That is where most Honda owners that are trying to build a "mild" setup start out. Secondly, B16 dual cam motors are not as common an engine as you may think. Not every Tom, wongleflute, and Harry has one installed in their Honda. Saddest thing is, when you do find one, 9 times outta 10, unless you know what to look for, you have to get a mechanic to check it out because most have lived in abusive enviroments anyway. Now then, I have been working on Hondas for quite a while now. I have worked on so many that it makes my head swim:burnout: . I am not going to lie, I do like the B16(A, A1, & A2), but most guys DO NOT have B16 engines under the hood. Most have D15s, D16s(A, Z, &Y series), F22s(for the accords unless they are V6s), H22s for the later model Preludes, and in most Integra's, you'll find the good ol' B18, unless it is a Type-R or GSR(B18C5). Any of which a nicely modded EA82T will keep up with, if not outrun. I know mine can. I don't know how many cars with bolt ons I've beaten in my GL-10 Wagon(Yes its a wagon. That is what makes winning so funny.). I don't even know how much power I'm producing either, but it must be enough. Just in case you are wondering, here is my list of mods: Custom 3" fenderwell intake Woven Stainless Steel filter element SRP Manual Boost Controller (Boost adjusted up to 11psi) N/A EA82 Distributor(timing has been advanced) NGK Iridium plugs Accel Super Coil(Big Square looking Yellow one) Custom 2-1/4" Bellmouth downpipe w/ CATCO cat(about a 1ft from it's stock location) Custom bent 2-1/4" exhaust w/N1 style canister muffler + 1 inline resonator Adjustable FPR(fuel pressure @ 42psi) New Fuel Pump(produces 95psi line pressure vs. stock 70psi) Mitsubishi Starion Intercooler w/ custom piping 100% recirculating BPV WRX oem hood scoop RhinoPac Clutch kit The only Hondas that I won't take on in my GL-10 is a turbocharged one or a Honda bike. Anything else is fair game. So don't sit there and preach to me that a mildly modded Civic would outdo a well modded EA82T. Especially not your average, everyday mildly modded Civic. If he were to just do a TD04 swap and add a little fuel, he would have been pulling away from that Honda guy with no problem(unless he started running out of road). And that is the true reality of it. And the only reason why Honda guys can build "budget" racecars, is the simple fact that there is a rather gigantic following in the aftermarket world for them. There is even a huge aftermarket for old & new school V6s & V8s. But old school Subaru guys like us have to custom fabricate most of our own performance parts. We are the forgotten few. That is why it gets so expensive to build up EA82Ts. But you have to be determined and know exactly what you want out of the motor. I have done some research on these motors and asked a few question around here too. Sometimes it is just the thrill of the chase that keeps us going. That is one of the biggest reasons why we swap so much information on the forum. We are a pretty tight knit community because most of us share the same common goal. And that goal is,"Stickin' it to The Man.":lol: Patrick

Well, and as the bell chimes, in comes a whiner, Sorry. Everyone has a different point of view on cars and the term fast. Fast to you may not be fast to me. Maybe he is a diehard Subaru fan like me(I have Subaru Rally Blue running through my veins), and it doesn't matter how old it is. He wants to beat a HONDA, not a 1,000+HP trailer and/or dyno queen. He wants it to be decently quick, so we advised him as to what steps to take. He, in theory, could have his block completely revamped and install larger diameter pistons, depending on how much he wants to spend on custom work. Or simply swap in a different motor and turbo setup. I think that Carroll Shelby said it best when he said,"Horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to go?" Older Subarus can be made fast. It just all depends on how much time, effort, and money you want to invest. And here is where reality comes back to bite you. I have heard the "no replacement for displacement" argument over and over again. I have seen more low displacment turbo & supercharged cars blow the doors off of big displacment engine, old school V8s until it isn't funny anymore. Sure when you turn up the boost, you will sacrifice reliability. But that is just it. 80% of the time, all you have to do to make more power is turn the boost up a bit and increase fuel to keep up. NA cars you would either have to convert them to forced induction or change the internals, which gets costly. In short, whenever you start hopping up any engine, forced induction or naturally aspirated, that is a risk that you take into account. The more power that you make, the less reliable the engine becomes. It all comes down to the owners preferences. And some people just absolutely love their Subarus and will do whatever they have to, to make them more enjoyable. I'm truly sorry if this sounds rude or strikes a sour note with you. I don't mean you any harm by it. Patrick

ROFL:clap: :lol:

MMMmmkay. Here we go: 1)3" Fenderwell intake 2)Intercooler 3)100% recirculating BPV(not BOV) 4)Adjustable FPR w/gauge(adjust Fuel pressure to 42psi) 5)New Fuel Pump(because the FPR will probably kill the factory one if you are still running the original) 6)New Fuel Filter(if you haven't already changed it) 7)Larger diameter DP(w/ divorced wategate or bellmouth), w/ highflow cat(install cat further downstream from the turbo) 8)Larger diameter exhaust(2-1/4", 2-1/2"; 3" will probably be too big) w/ better flowing muffler 9)Boost Gauge(PSI or BAR; if BAR, learn how to read boost pressure in BAR if you don't know how already) 10)Boost controller(manual, electronic, you choose)(adjust boost to either 10 or 11psi[under fuel cut]; unless your car doesn't fuel cut[if it doesn't, you're lucky!]) 11)*Optional* Custom exhaust manifold that directs flow toward the turbocharger 12)*Optional*Fuel Cut Defencer(HKS, APEXi, custom, etc.) 13)*Optional*Delta cams(street grind) 14)*Optional*MegaSquirt standalone or piggyback unit(E-Manage, regular or Ultimate; just have to get it tuned) 15)New plugs, wires, disty cap & rotor 16)Uprated Clutch(more clamping force) Oh, and you might want to install new brakes too. Trust me!!! With all that, you will have one killer ol' school Sube!!!! This will net you some serious power at the wheels. It will also help if you are going for the whole "sleeper" theme, like myself. If you don't like the way the stock turbo runs, then upgrade to a TD04 from a WRX or a turbo from a Legacy w/2.2L. If you do this mod, make sure that you get the associated parts(up-pipe, downpipe, etc).This will give you better top end power. Hope this helps. Patrick

If it is the whoosh sound that I think you are talking about, it is normal. Does it sound kinda like a sound clip from a Jason movie? If so, Russ is right. But, installing a BPV or BOV will not stop it from making this sound. Every turbo car that I have ever worked on(that had uprated performance parts, especially on the intake side) has made this noise, BPV or not. It won't hurt anything and nothing is trying to destroy itself, so I wouldn't worry too much. Unless it sounds like someone threw a handful of pebbles into the turbos inlet(which is an indicator of bearing failure and compressor shaft alignment problems), then you have cause to worry. The gurgling sound you are hearing is actually the air back building in the piping and hitting the compressor wheel as the turbo spools down and causing backspin. It is a very common sound on cars that have small turbos(like ours) because the turbos are very quick to spool, especially when not running a BPV to relieve the pressure. If you are still running stock boost, the turbo will last for a good long while. But if you are overboosting(and I use this term loosely), it will not last very long and will ultimately lead to bearing and compressor shaft alignment failure from the added forces. Patrick

I wish I could post some pics of my intercooler setup(and participate a little more in this discussion:( ). I have a A/C condenser fan from a Honda Civic mounted underneath my intercooler. I have a Mitsubishi Starion intercooler, setup in a top mount configuration, and the fan is what holds the IC up. But that will change as soon as I get back as I have an OEM IC from a Supra that I am going to use to build my FMIC setup. Patrick

That looks AWESOME!!! I tried to get the guys at one of the local(Wichita Falls) exhaust shops to build me something like that, but I couldn't get them to understand what the heck I was talking about. Now if I could only get someone to build one for me...............Anyhow, keep up the good work, as GOD has blessed you with a skill to be proud of. Patrick

Oh yeah, what weight oil are you running? It might be leaking past the rings if it is too thin. Or another possibility is that you could have a leaky valve guide, or even a leaky oil seal in the turbo itself. Patrick

Hey if those are the pics of what you have done so far, it looks pretty good. Got a quick question for you Jay. How much would you charge to fab up just the piping for the header(no flanges needed; can have the local exhaust shop weld them on when I get back to the States.)? Patrick

Northwet hit the nail on the head. The turbo mounting flange is a common problem area. It will get hot and crack over time. Add in some exhaust flexing due to engine movement, and you have a recipe for disaster. You might want to get your exhaust leak fixed as it is before the 02 sensor. It will ultimately wind up screwing with your 02 readings, which in turn will probably make your engine run terribly rich. My car did something similar about 2 months ago. Basically, just get the leak fixed(so that you can eliminate it as a possibility of being the problem) and then tackle any other problems thereafter. Patrick

Yeah, but he's working on an '89. Patrick

Do It Sidewayz, after lookin' at that pic, I have determined that your little Justy is the HOTNESS!!! Makes me wanna go out and buy one! Patrick

This is blowing my mind!!! Will is my new HERO!!!! Patrick

Too bad you can't find Subaru Vivios in the States. They are little Kei cars that have small displacement (658 cc's to be precise) turbocharged engines and are feather light. But when you do some modifications to them, they are rediculously fast. The locals here in Okinawa love these things to death. I have seen a couple that were so fast it was just stupid! I wanted to cry, it was such a beautiful sight. I have been thinking about ditching my Starlet and buying one. They are sweet as the pic will prove. Oh, and I forgot to mention that best of all, they are Fulltime 4WD with a 5 Speed Manual Tranny!!! These little babies are rally proven cars(YES, I said RALLY PROVEN). Can You say Subaru Justy reincarnate?!!! Here is a link to a pic of this little hotrod:http://www.microcar.org/carspecs/subaruvivio.html This one is the vehicle specs:http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/subaru/vivio/1992_12/28875/ And finally, here is a link to a site by a guy who is known as Vivioman:http://vivioman.stormloader.com/ This site has valuable info concerning the Subaru Vivio and associated modifications. Enjoy everybody:) !!! Patrick

It is at a very good friend on mine's house in Texas. He is taking care of it while I'm here in Okinawa. It developed the problem 2 days after I returned to Okinawa. Really sucks if you ask me. Caleb, I sent you a PM.

Hey all. Well, as many of you know, I have had some technical difficulties with my GL-10 Wagon for the past month. I'm not anywhere where I can put hands on the car and have been relying on my friend to relay info to me about the situation. Well, I talked to him on monday and he told me that the car is still making the sound. But here is where it gets strange. He said that he did an oil change on the car to eliminate that as a possibility. But he also said that there is no oil leaking anywhere. I had figured that the oil pump seal was toast, but this makes me think different. I would think if the oil pump gasket splits, it would be leaking oil somewhere under the timing belt cover or around that area. Does this sound right? He has also taken both valve covers off and said that he looked at everything, and it all looked okay. He told me that the oil pump is definitely pumping because there is oil covering everything under both valve covers. Could this be the HLAs going south? I had read in Hti Johnson's post that doing a compression check could show the problem up. If it is the HLAs, how long would the engine last before it gives up the ghost? Any and all input would be helpful. Thanks for your time. Ready,....... get set,.......POST!!!! Patrick

Maybe that is what is wrong with my GL-10. I hate being halfway around the globe from my car!!! Patrick

Haha, I do the same thing. It is always embarrassing especially when there is some one else in the car and you start looking down at the floor trying to figure out why you can't get the stupid clutch pedal to depress. I have caught myself more than a few times looking for the clutch pedal. DOH!!!! Patrick

Not me, TMIC is in the way. I like my subie when it is running. I enjoy the feel of brute power as it is fed from the engine through the 5 speed tranny, and ultimately to the ground. It is as if the car knows what I am thinking, and it responds with gusto to my beckon and call. That '88 fits me like a glove. It is a total sleeper, which creeps up and pounces on unsuspecting ricer wannabes. Either way, it delivers what I want, when I want it. It has plenty of room for hauling things and people. I love every inch of that car.

I'm with everyone else on this one. Get some turbo cams back in that thing. When I first got my GL-10 legal and everything, I took it on a trip down to Dallas(which is a 2-1/2 hr drive one way from Wichita Falls,TX). I had a full tank of gas when I started my trip, and had only used 1 bar(Digital dash) on my fuel gauge when I got back home. And I was running 11psi of boost on stock VF7 turbo, with a cat(CATCO) + 2-1/4" exhaust, stock turbo cams, Iridium plugs, Adjustable FPR(42psi), new fuel filter, custom 3" Fenderwell intake system w/ stainless mesh cone filter, and top mount intercooler(Starion). The sad thing is, with Dallas traffic during the time of day I went, I had to dog my poor car almost the whole time I was on my way(following friends to a dyno day competition & car show). So yeah, I would definitly put some turbo cams in, even regrinds. Patrick

Alex, I'll pray for you. Sounds like you're going to need some "Divine Guidance." Patrick

Pre-turbo leak, the car will rev fine, but the turbo will feel as if it is lagging. Post- turbo leak is no biggie unless it is before the muffler. It shouldn't hurt anything except your pocketbook if Johnny Law comes a knockin' with his Db meter. Patrick