4WDFrenzy

NO, NO, NO!!!!! I'm begging you. Please don't get rid of it. Older subies seem to have a whole lot of character to them sometimes. They just need a little lovin'. Do you have any coolant leaking on top of the motor? I had problems with that stupid hose on my GL-10. It had a small pin hole in it and whenever I would be in boost, the coolant would spray out and steam would come out. If you have some of the long jawed needle nose pliers, it can be replaced with ease. If you need an intercooler, let me know what you have in mind and I'll keep my eyes out for good deals. I can get used intercoolers pretty cheap, just gotta know what you're needing. Patrick

Well, I guess I should've read all the posts first. Now I feel stupid cause I'm still chanting "keep the Subie" with the Coalition for Subaru Happiness. LOL Patrick

KEEP THE SUBARU!!! I used to get disrespected because of my '88 GL-10. But I love the thing. It fits me like a glove. When I got it, it was like the feeling you get when you own your first car, all over again. The previous Dodge vehicles that I owned should have both probably been in the junkyard('96 Neon & '00 Stratus SE). But for some reason I wouldn't give up on them. I have never had so many problems out of a car as I did with Dodge. Shoot, even Dodge's supercar(Neon SRT4) has problems. The sad thing is, this is coming from a used to be diehard Dodge fan. I would still like to get another '96 Neon single cam(can't get them outta my blood), but I would never get rid of my Subarus. They are like close friends. You always want them to stay in your life. As I said, don't get rid of the Subie!!! Patrick

Will, it would be awhile before I can do anything like that but I'm very interested and excited that someone has finally decided to take this challenge on. Get some pricing and I will see if I can get the cash together to place an order. Are you going to do a core exchange or how are you working this? Patrick

HOLY CRAP BRIAN!!!! For a minute there I thought you had photo shopped something into the picture. LOL It almost looks like a DQ soft serve cone!! Man, the previous owner has no heart if they just let that poor subie suffer like that. Heartless man, heartless. Patrick

Well, I would go with you, but, ummmmmm, well, I'm kinda in Okinawa right now. I'm sorry. LOL:lol: Patrick

Meeky Moose, have you checked to see whether or not your BOV is leaking under vacuum? This may be the problem. If so, you may need to add another spacer to make it stay shut. You may also want to think about having a fitting installed on the intake pipe and running a hose from the BOV to it, so that it recirculates 100% back in front of the turbo inlet and not to atmosphere. This will screw with your A/F ratios because the air has already been metered and accounted for by the ECU and fuel has been injected accordingly. When you vent that air to atmosphere, the engine runs rich for a couple of seconds. And if the BOV is leaking under idle(vacuum conditions), then it will make more air bypass the combustion chambers and the engine will in turn be running richer(not excessively rich) than normal. That may be where your MPG and power are going. Patrick

Hey Caleb, was that BPV I sold you leaking? Patrick

I've got two(one old, one new). 1988 GL-10 "Draggin' Wagon", EA82T, fulltime 4wd, 5spd manual - Running; but need to replace oil pump seal. 2002 WRX Wagon- Runs like a Ostrich; sprints like a Cheetah, but still purrs like a kitten. Numbchux, I think I'm going to cry when you send the GL to the crusher. Hmmm. Seems as though I have a wagon fetish! Cheers!!! Patrick

Hey Brian, I think a carbed block would be okay. If I remember right, part of the EA82Ts low compression(7.7:1) is a result of shorter rods(if I'm wrong, someone please correct me) and also low compression pistons. So if this info is right, you could probably put in some aftermarket pistons to lower the compression to either 9.0:1(flat top) or even 8.0:1(dished), which would help to ease your mind as far as durability and reliability under mid level boost conditions. You may even be able to find forged rods for it to help insure that the only weak points would be the headgaskets or the crank(possibly). Honda guys usually run 9.0:1 compression pistons in their high horsepower turbo applications, so I think a subie block would be fine. Patrick

Looks like a die grinder came in kinda handy there. If you don't mind me asking Will, how did you get the plates turned from the angle in the original configuration, to the new configuration? Patrick

That is some good handywork my friend. I like the look and also the fact that it has a FMIC. Pretty darn spiffy if you ask me. Hey, I'm aslo wondering if you could post some pics of the car from the front? Patrick

It can be done as long as there are bolts or a spring clip holding the compressor housing in place. It looks as though it has bolts from one of the pics that Caboobaroo has posted. This should allow you to clock the compressor to the 90* spot and then bolt the wastegate to the matching holes. If it has a spring clip, then, well I'm afraid you are royally screwed, unless you can weld on a flange for an external wastegate. Patrick

Hey John, WELCOME HOME!!! It is always good to hear that another soldier has made it home safely. Thank You for all you and your platoon have done over there. The words Thank You just can't express my greatfulness for every sacrifice that you guys make on the Alter of Freedom. May GOD Bless You my friend. I'm not sure if you are refering to the '91 Loyale or the '89 GL. Whichever car it is, either the cat on it is shot, or it may have a dirty fuel injector. Best thing to do is a small tune up(change air filter, fuel filter, plugs, and possibly the catalytic converter). In that way, you can eliminate these from being the problem. You may also want to run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through the system as well. That's all I can think of at the moment. Patrick

Didn't follow protocol?!!! Well, maybe I'm just protective of my car, because if the car was driven any amount of time or any distance with the oil that was in it, I sure as heck wouldn't reuse it. I would rather have the piece of mind knowing that there was fresh oil in it rather than oil that had already been run before. Besides, I probably don't drive like you nor you like me. My GL-10 was a bit abused before I became the owner, so I take as many precautions as possible. I demand alot from my vehicles and all the precautions I take is to make sure they continue to run. Changing the engine oil every time the filter is changed or off the car for that matter, just happens to be one of them. Patrick

I took the liberty of taking the exerpt from the section where you got the info to form your opinion. "BTW - WAW gave some good advice. However, I will say that my lifter clatter was intermittent, and two new oil pumps with new gaskets did not have any noticeable affect on the problem; but over a period of time, the MMO treatment (1/8 to 1/4 qt. with each oil change; change both oil and filter faithfully every 3000 miles) worked. I will also add that I am convinced that my problem was caused by my suddenly changing over to synthetic oil at high mileage due to synthetic's inherent very high detergent property - what I call its "laxative affect" - rapidly releasing accumulated crankcase deposits into the lube system (and lifters)." It is possible that the flush caused your engine to tick. When I did it to mine, it was just fine afterwards aside from the periodic ticking, which was pre-existent. But as I stated before, upon my oil and filter change, the ticking went away. What I stated was simply a theory that I had formulated from my experience. It isn't set in stone or anything so please don't get your feathers ruffled over it. I haven't really done too much investigation into it as the problem subsided, and as I said, I didn't notice until my wife said something about it. So, in saying that, if you believe my theory to be "Fool's Gold," then you need not trouble yourself bothering with it. Besides, it is just my opinion after all. Nothing more. Patrick

If you would like, I can look for a Skyline side mount intercooler for you. They are alot thicker than the Talon ICs and has a larger surface, not to mention it would most likely be easier to run pipes to(Top mount style) than the Talon IC. These can be had for around $30 here. Let me know if you're interested. Patrick

SWEET!!! Would you be willing to take me for a spin in it the next time I'm home? It would be cool to see what a hooked up Subaru Wagon is supposed to feel like! Patrick

OH CRAP!!! I'm sorry. It happens to the best of us, unfortunately. Patrick

Hey Caleb, I'm sorry to hear about your engine woes. If you call my friend Jason's cell phone, he can tell you where there is a carbed EA82, well that is if you really want to make the trip to Wichita Falls to get it. But when we saw it, it appeared to be in good condition, but appearance can only tell you so much. Just a thought in case you want to get another, and can't locate one in your area. Patrick

Yeah, but then I don't get to have all the aftermarket internal goodies in it. I checked with CCR and they quoted me $1700 plus shipping. It's not too bad I guess, considering it is basically a drop in after you install your accessories. I'm still trying to think that one through. I know that doing a rebuild will be a long and drawn out process since I have never rebuilt a Subaru motor before. But I have a few plans, like trying to locate some forged rods, 8.0:1 dished forged pistons, and maybe some TotalSeal piston rings for the motor. I just want to beef it up a bit, escpecially before I fab that T25 that I recently acquired on it. The ol' Draggin' Wagon will be a toy for me. My wife plans on getting another Subaru(She is talking Forester XT or possibly another WRX) when we get back to the States after this tour. Hopefully I will get one of the jobs that I applied for so that I can speed this process along a bit. But it will all come together in due time. Patrick

No, he hasn't done a compression check as of yet. I'll tell him about it again. I am thinking more and more about just ripping it apart and rebuilding it. It will have to wait awhile though. But when I take it apart, I can put some goodies in that should help out in the power and longevity department. At least with a fresh rebuild, I can feel a little more confident about being able to drive it and stuff not breaking every couple of weeks. So in short, I guess the saying is true. GOD Does Work In Mysterious Ways!!!! Now I just have to save up the cash to buy the internal engine goodies that I want to add, not to mention the rebuild kit. Hey, maybe by the time that I get ready for my rebuild, Will might have heard back from ARP on those head studs and maybe some company will have produced some a stamped steel head gasket for our engines. Well Thanks to everyone for all the replies. My spirits are now lifted and I am ready to take on this challenge. Patrick

I will try to pull them on my next visit to the States. I guess I'll have to send them out to RC Engineering to have them cleaned and inspected. But what could be making the metal to metal sound? Let me ask this question. How hard is it to rebuild on of these bad boys? I have never rebuilt a Subaru motor before so I just want to know what I'm getting myself into if I decide to go this route. If anyone has tips or pointers, please share. Patrick

Agreed. Patrick

Thats cool Will. I will have to check the local shops and see if I can locate any camber plates for any Subarus over here. Patrick