4WDFrenzy

The info I provided wasn't meant to be an anecdote or be funny in any way, form, or fashion. This is by personal experience. I suppose that I forgot to mention that a month prior I did something(knowingly) that you are really not suppose to do to a turbo car. I ran engine flush through the system just to make sure that there was no sludge buildup. It indeed flushed any sludge that was in the system out as the oil(which at the time was about two weeks old and still looked new[i.E. hadn't turned brown]) came out a dark brown after I was done. It had been ticking before hand and the oil change, didn't go away. I then was here on the USMB and someone was saying something about FRAM oil filters, which I had coincidentally just installed one on my GL-10. The person strongly advised against FRAM, so I immediately changed the oil and filter upon coming across this info. I installed a WIX oil filter and put in new oil, and the ticking went away. Now to your second statement. Yes, HLAs operate under low pressure conditions, but if they aren't getting enough oil to keep them lubed, then wouldn't the following result be valve lifter tick? Low pressure is only a part of the reason that HLAs tick. If you have low oil pressure and low oil flow on top of it, then poor lubrication is the result. The GL-10 was the third car that I have owned that has produced the lifter ticking noise(I previously owned a 96 Dodge Neon and a 2000 Dodge Stratus). The Stratus was the only other one of the 3 that I changed the filter to a WIX and the ticking went away. I never paid too much attention to the fact that the sound went away after I changed the filter until my wife said something about it, and even then, it still didn't click. But after experiencing this, it kind of made me believe that the filter was the problem. That is why I will never use a FRAM again. So don't take offense to my reasons unless you work for FRAM or something:) . Patrick

I'll put it to you this way, mine ticked a bit every now and then when I was running a FRAM oil filter. But upon someones suggestion(can't remember who), I changed the oil and put in a WIX oil filter. After that the ticking went away and the car ran just fine. So I just put two and two together and figured that if FRAM oil filters filter so well(by their own admission), then they must surely be causing a restriction in the oiling system. Their air filters are the same way. It is a common trade off with filtration quality and air or oil flow. The smaller particles the filter traps, the more restrictive it will become after it begins to trap particles. So that is how I came to that conclusion. Patrick

I appreciate your concern about my GL-10. It'll turn out okay in time. Now, as far as the crankcase vapors go, if they are forced out through the PCV valve, and back into the manifold, doesn't that mean that they are unfiltered? All PCV systems have a side that has higher pressure than the other(inlet & exit). Air enters on one side and exits back to the engine on the other. Every PVC system that I have encountered has no filter between the PCV valve and the intake tract(which includes the intake piping, throttlebody, intake manifold, intake passages into the combustion chamber, etc). Any place that the vapors are delivered(I.E. intake pipe or intake manifold) they in effect "taint" the "clean" air that has just been drawn in from the air filter. The carbed engines pull this air through the air filter element to catch any oil particles that might have escaped the crankcase or the air pickup for the crankcase has its own breather element. Newer systems simply draw the blowby directly into the engine through either the intake pipe or tube, or through the intake maifold depending on the engine design(most times through the intake manifold). Now if you'll recall, I made no reference to the dirty air going into the crankcase(check my posts), so I have no idea where that came from. Patrick

Are you just trying to be an @$$ or what? Don't go from one post to another trying to keep argument going. This is by all means NOT the place. Patrick

Piece of Junk? I haven't seen a Subaru yet that was a "Piece of Junk." If that is the way you feel, you can sell it to someone who will appreciate it more. Even the most run down Subies are just works in progress. You have some nerve. Patrick

HELLO?!!! Crankcase vapors ARE/contain unfiltered air. It doesn't matter if they(Crankcase Vapors) are introduced in the intake pipe, venturi, intake runners, whatever, you take your pick. It is still unfiltered air any which way you look at it. As I said before, LOOK UNDER THE HOOD OF ANY CAR!!!!! And if you are incapable of understanding that, then don't argue about it. You're making about as much sense as trying to ride a horse with no legs. Patrick

Any info on the OEM mounts yet? Patrick

UPDATE: Okay. My friend called me early this morning and told me that he removed the valve covers from both sides of the motor. He told me he looked around on the passenger side head first and everything looked perfect, nothing seemed out of place. So he reinstalled the valve cover and turned his attention to the drivers side head. Upon removing the valve cover from the drivers side, he said that there was a very strong smell of gasoline. What the heck does this mean? Has anyone ever had this problem or experienced this situation? If so, what did you do to fix it? Please help, this situation is getting really desperate and I really don't want to have to fork out $1700+ dollars for a rebuilt motor, but I will if I absolutely have to. If anyone thinks that this may be a losing battle, please speak now. Patrick

Boy you are a real piece of work. You should think about what is coming out of your head before you allow it to trickle down through your hands to the computer. Your lack of understanding is showing. Anyway, if you had read my whole post rather than just the first section, you will notice that I also said to DISCONNECT THE STOVE PIPE. If he were to build a complete intake all the way to the carb(out of piping and delete the stock filterbox), then he would have no use for the stove pipe at all now would he? And YES, I was talking about crankcase vapors and not sand or dirt. Who the H*** in their right mind would introduce sand and grit into the engine? Patrick

I avoid FRAM filters at all cost. Ever wonder what the trade-off is for such "great filtration"? It is called stemmed oil flow. And unless you want to listen to the not-so-catchy tune of the tick off death, I'd suggest you do the same. I use WIX and Purolator. I'd get an OEM one, but I just don't feel like driving 2 1/2 hours to get one or a batch of them. As for oil, Mobil 1 is decent, but if you want good oil(and your pocketbook allows) I'd suggest Royal Purple or Amsoil. These are probably the best oils that money can buy, not to mention years of research to back up any and all claims. Patrick

Boost controller, more fuel(bigger pump or adj. FPR), intercooler, and fenderwell intake with high flow cone filter. Also a piggyback ecu like the E-manage or a standalone like MegaSquirt. This will allow you to adjust you fuel input and also give you control over ignition, not to mention will allow you to get rid of the MAF(which is a restriction). You can also try getting your hands on a used TD04 turbo from a WRX and mount it on. It will provide more airflow at a lower boost level and increased compressor efficiency. You might also try getting a larger diameter downpipe and exhaust system. Also a less restrictive muffler. This will help out substantially. Patrick

Ummm, yeah. The Pcv system and any other tube that runs to the intake assembly(whether that be a pipe or whatever) is going to introduce unfiltered air to the mix at some point or another. It won't hurt the engine to suck in unfiltered air from the PCV system as that is part of the reason why it is there in the first place. Hypothetically, the engine pulls in the vapors and burns them during the combustion cycle. This greatly reduces emissions. The stove pipe only brings in hot air off of the exhaust manifold and can be disconnected all together. It just preheats the incoming air charge which totally defeats the purpose of putting a cold air or fresh air intake on the engine in the first place.

211, I emailed them this past week about an EA82T. I was told that they are the best in the business. It is going to take a bit to save up the $1700 plus the shipping, but it'll be well worth it. If you have had problems in the past and don't feel like putting in the man hours to fix your current one, buy a freshly rebuilt one from CCR. Either way, it'll cost you money. Just depends on how much work you're willing to do. Patrick

Okay, now that I have stopped laughing I have something to say also. I don't support street racing. I have done it as well in the past, but there was always that little voice in the back of my head that is saying slow down. 9 times outta 10 I'd slow down. If it really comes down to it, I just pull their punk card and say," Hey, let's go out to the track. Then you can prove how fast you really are." You will be suprised at how many excuses people come up with just because they don't want to pay the entry fee for the track. Then I'm like," It's $17 dollars for goodness sake!" So if there is a track that is close by, I'd suggest going there and then you have your win on paper. Patrick

I hate to be a downer, but all intakes introduce unfiltered air somewhere. Just check under the hood of any car. Patrick

I got one of those!!! '02 WRX Wagon in midnight black pearl. It goes along nicely with my '88 GL-10 Wagon(turbo fulltime 4wd w/diff lock & 5spd) although it is currently broken:( . But anyway, the ram air idea is a good one. It may need a little more fabricating though. The air filter needs to be isolated so that the incoming air from the scoop has no place to go except through the filter. In it's current configuration, it will still work, but it will more or less work as a fresh air intake, which we all know is still better than the engine breathing in hot, stale engine compartment air. I have a couple of ideas for a ram air setup, but have no way to convey them on the forum(it would require some "hands on the car time" and maybe a few sketches). I really can't help too much from my current location either. Patrick

^^^ ROFLMAO:lol: ^^^

BTW Good Sir, you're not as funny as you think you are. This is not the place to make fun of people's religious beliefs. If you want to do that, I'm sure there is a forum somewhere else for that. If the rest of the members on this fine automotive forum can peacefully co-exist without making fun of any members sex, race, or religious beliefs, then I believe that it applies to you too. This is your only warning. Don't behave like that here. Patrick

That is what I'm trying to figure out too.

Look, You don't have to be a smart--- about it. I don't really think you want to go there with me. I had a deadline to meet when it came to getting my car roadworthy, so don't have any indication that you can school me when it comes to clutches. When I was looking for a clutch, I wanted one that would last a long time and endure some abuse from time to time. I'm sure this place that you are talking about is probably local or something. I didn't have that luxury. NOW, If you can find a complete clutch kit(and I'm not talking some refurbished anything (resurfaced) discs, PPs, whatever; I want Brand Spankin' NEW off the shelf), for that price, I want to see it on paper in black and white. Here is my mailing address so you can send the qoute to me: Patrick Zimmerli PSC 80 Box 10329 APO, AP 96367 Then, and only then would I be inclined to purchase it. And I don't want it to be some special price or price after discount, that only you can get because you race or anything. I want it to be the same price for every average joe off the street to pay if he/she was looking for a clutch.

STEVE!!!! You are the man!!! You are blazing a new trail with your E-Manage install. I have to applaud your "don't quit" attitude. I believe that I might have to follow in your footsteps in the near(well if you want to call 3 years near) and purchase and install an E-Manage as well. Congratulations and may GOD Bless You!!!! Patrick

I am bookmarking this site! Judging by your posts, you have been around the block with clutches more than once. I am going to be hitting them up in a couple months. Thank for the info. Patrick

Not hate, just facts. Please understand, I am no noob to clutches by any means. I have looked all over the place for a good clutch for my GL-10 even to the extent of calling a bunch of the big name clutch manufacturers(even Centerforce). The only info that I ever got was a price qoute from ACT for $450 for a heavy duty OEM replacement clutch. It has been a long time since I spoke with anyone from Centerforce, but the last time I spoke with a rep., I was told that there wasn't enough demand to mass produce anything for the EA82s.

Thanks!!! All your prayers and best wishes are very well accepted. My friend Jason is going to take off the valve cover and such and see if he can see anything and report to me his findings. I will keep everyone posted on what he finds out.

Hey I tell you what, take some measurements and send them to me. I believe that the CUSCO pillowball mounts I have on my Starlet Glanza V will work. They look really close. I mainly need the measurements between the 3 studs. The only thing that I could foresee is having to drill an extra hole for the 4th stud to go through. Let me know. Patrick