4WDFrenzy

Well I sure wish that I knew what brake and clutch guy you're talking to because I sure as heck would buy a carbon kevlar clutch kit from him. Heck, all the guys around where I used to live in Texas would give you a stupid look if you said that you wanted a peformance carbon or kevlar clutch for an old Subaru. Shoot, you might even get a chuckle out of 'em before they told you to look elsewhere. I'd rather pay $300 for a brand new COMPLETE kit that is made for withstanding abuse, than some no-name brand clutch that is probably just a rebuilt clutch. I paid half of that for the RhinoPac clutch kit that I have in my GL-10 right at this present moment. What is $150 more for better clamping force and holding power under violently abusive conditions. At least it isn't $450 or $500 like ACT quoted me about a year ago. And that was just for a stock disc with a heavy duty pressure plate. Besides, everyone that I have spoken with that is running Centerforce clutches seem to never have a bad thing to say about them. Oh yeah, and thanks for your sarcasm. It isn't appreciated or needed here thank you.

I just sent my email. Hopefully this will get the ball rolling on production for a vehicle specific clutch kit. Come on everyone, get those emails sent in!!!! Patrick

It almost sounds like a leaky valve guide. That is rather strange that it did that. Did you run it hard or anything before it sat?

Yeah, I told him not to go out and drive it, much less start the stupid thing until I figure out what the heck is wrong with it. I think it will just wind up being something for me to fix in my spare time on my next vacation to the states(man it sounds weird saying that, vacation to the states!).

AAaaahhhh!!!!! Glen, don't say that!! I have to think positive! I have to think positive!! LOL That is true. I should be able to tell what the heck the deal is by removing the valve cover. I am going to continue hoping and praying that it is only something simple like the spring. I will also have my friend take the spark plugs out on the passenger side and see what he can see, if anything. I was able to see only a small portion of the inside of the combustion chamber when I replaced my plugs a while back. So maybe he will be able to see enough to tell if there is damage to the pistons. I will also see if I can get him to run a compression check on it as well. Maybe that will tell the tale.

That's cool. Well, just be easy on it until you get an IC.

DOH!!! I was thinkin' about the idle adjustment screw. That is what I get for staying up for more than 24 hours.

Cool. I'll have to check with the dealerships. Thank You for the info. Patrick

Okay. First off, please don't take this the wrong way but might I suggest getting and installing some sort of intercooler? I really don't see the engine lasting very long running 11psi and no intercooler. While you are running more boost, you may not be seeing the increase in power that you would get from a cooler, denser air charge(via an intercooler) because the air is being heated up too much to create a big increase in power.That would be my first supporting mod. Secondly, if it feels like it isn't getting enough fuel, give her what she wants. You can add an adjustable FPR and increase the fuel pressure to 42psi. This will add enough fuel to get you over the 100mph hump. Or another option is to add a Hobbs pressure switch and tee in a cold start injector from a Saab or VW. The Hobbs switch allows you to determine what boost pressure the fuel injector kicks in at. This will require some wiring, but it isn't as difficult as one may think. Also add a high flow fuel pump. It should be easy as the stock one is an inline style pump. You have to keep in mind, these little cars only came stock with 115hp. And that is measured at the crank. Trust me, if you increase the fueling abilities of the engine, you will see a dramatic increase in power. Now you're getting plenty of fuel in, it needs it's close partner: AIR!!! Get yourself some piping, silicone connectors, K&N cone filter, and a MAF adapter. Cut a hole in the inside of the bumper(where the stock snorkel goes through into the fender) and run the piping and filter into the fender. This will feed the turbo colder air right off the bat which creates an enviroment that is good for making power. You may also want to add a bypass valve(100% recirculating back to the turbos inlet pipe) to keep the turbocharger from getting damaged by pressurized air back building and causing compressor stall. This will also help to keep the turbo spooled between shifts. You have lots of air going in, did you remember to give it an escape route? A larger diameter exhaust will yield a handful of ponies and will also allow your now "high performance" engine to breathe freely. Basically, you have all kinds of options. You just have to know what you want the car to do and also know what the good ol' budget will allow. If you need assistance, just ask. There are many members here on the boards that I'm sure would be more than willing to help you(me included; I'd just be a little bit limited in what I can do for you considering where I'm at:rolleyes: ). I hope this helps. I'm sorry for writing a novel. Patrick

Well, I would but here is the kicker. It isn't blowing any kind of smoke out of the tailpipe whatsoever. The car has plenty of power from what I was told, it just has a loud metal on metal sound while the engine is running which kinda leads me to believe that it is some sort of oiling problem. I am almost ready to just give up on the thing, but I keep thinking about how much work that I have put into it and it kinda keeps me clinging to a thread of hope. It is really hard for me to diagnose this problem since I am not right there to put hands on the car and see what exactly the problem is. Does anyone know where to purchase the springs from?

Behind the throttle body assembly. It will have a small brass piece with a provision for adjustment via a flathead screwdriver. Turn it in(like you are tightening a screw) to lower the idle, and back it off(unscrew) to increase idle.

My friend was saying yesterday that the sound is coming from the passenger side head only. In theory, if the spring broke, wouldn't it cause the valve lifters to collapse and not open the valves as much, thus finally causing the engine to die? If so, then now I have to go through the trouble to find new springs and have them replaced. It sounds like the lifters are tapping(oil starvation). He let me hear it over the phone a few minutes ago.

Okay. I think I might know what the deal is. If I remember correctly, aren't there little springs in each head that control the oil pressure to the individual head?

The more I think about it, the more I think it might be the oil pump. Do our cars have the safety shutoff when the oil pressure gets too low?

Any Suggestions? *Bump*

I second that. Patrick

I think my GL-10 is going to die. Either that or it is in desperate need of life support. I left my GL-10 in the care of one of my trusted friends as I know that he will take care of it. My Dad was originally watching the car, but said that he will be unable to(long story, don't ask). I was kinda relieved to get it away from my Dad as he is notorious for not taking care of vehicles like he should. He won't even check the oil in the car, so I made sure to change the oil before I left for Okinawa. Well, back to the story, my friend had just taken the car down to the exhaust shop to get the passenger side flange rewelded and spun 90 degrees after an exhaust bolt broke off into the head. I had to take the stock manifold off after the turbo mounting flange decided to seperate from the manifold piping. So my friend agreed to take it down to the exhaust shop and have everything fixed. Well, he got that fixed, put back together and was on his way to his job(cruising at 68mph) when he said he noticed that the speed was dropping rapidly(68, then 56, then 40 something, then 30 something, then 20 something, and then it died). He started freaking out thinking that he had killed the car. Well, he cranks the thing back up and it runs and idles just fine, but he said that there is a very loud metal on metal sound. So he called one of his coworkers and had him tow the car to his work and then home. His friend gave the engine a listen upon his arrival and said that it sounds like a broken valve. Now as you can guess, this really sucks for me since I am back in Okinawa and have no way to really get a good grasp on how loud the noise is and where exactly it is coming from. Does anyone have any idea what could possibly be the problem? Could it be bearings? Is it possible that the oil pump took a crap? Would it just be better to get another engine? I don't want to have to shell out any money until I have a very good idea as to what in Hadaes is wrong with it. If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it. Suggestions are very welcome. Thank You all for any help that you can render. May GOD Bless You All!!! Patrick

Steveman09, keep us informed about the E-manage install. I am a bit interested to see the E-manage in action on a GL-10 or RX.

I'm with BoostedBalls on this one. Intercoolers are a necessity on GL-10s when turning up the boost. You will also need to get a higher flow fuel pump(inline type) and perhaps an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to increase the fuel flow. You can also go the custom fuel line route like Will(WJM) did to safeguard against uneven fuel distribution to the injectors. Just remember, the more power you want, the more it will cost. But you can't skimp on the important stuff. Keep your head in the game and remember to do your research. Also, asking questions here on the forum helps out too. On a lighter note, if you are in need of an intercooler, I can find you a good one here for cheap. Just say the word and shoot me a PM if you are interested. Patrick

Wow! The stock ecu was yielding more power than the MS? Dang! I guess that still gives me a glimmer of hope that with some hardparts(i.e., injectors, custom header, larger diameter downpipe, (OEM S13 Silvia) T-25 turbocharger swap, 5th injector, and maybe a tad larger diameter intercooler piping) + about 3psi more on the boost(14psi total), and I believe my horsepower goals might still be within reach. Well, I will have to wire in that Fields "Boxer Series" SFC that I have to get rid of the fuel cut issue and give me a little control over the larger injectors. I honestly don't plan on running more than 14 or 15psi on my motor. I don't necessarily want to build a monster, but a very quick sleeper would be nice. Well, good luck on everything Will. We are behind you 110%!!! Patrick

I'm glad to hear that you got a good alternator now and that the problem is solved. Not only that, but you have a supply at the autoparts store nearby.

I thought there was some talk a little while back about older subies not liking the SAFC II's, but maybe I'm wrong. I'll put it to you this way(and this is just my 2 cents), but you would probably pay alot less to get a MegaSquirt setup compared to the price of an SAFC II brand new. Plus, you have to add the fact that the MS is completely adjustable. Now if you are just wanting to add extra fuel, I'd suggest getting a Hobbs switch and a cold start injector from a wrecked Saab or Volkswagen and tee it into the existing fuel feed line. You might also want to look into a higher flow fuel pump or an adjustable FPR to supplement the extra fuel needed for the additional airflow of the TD04. But like I said, that is just my 2 cents. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of supporting mods do you have in place to assist the TD04? Patrick

Tally up another for Castrol Syntec 10W30(Soon to be Royal Purple 10W30 )

SWEET!!! Thanks for the link.

Only problem is, I have never seen a "lightly" used TD04. LOL:lol: