4WDFrenzy

Thank You all for your replies. So, I got 2 saying keep it, 1 saying sell, and 1 undecided. Hmmmmmm....... I like the turbo. Boosted84Wagon is right, it is a T-25. The turbos are reliable and efficient up to 1.1 BAR(16 PSI) according to a group of Silvia owners her on the island. I don't ever plan to run that much boost on the motor, but even running .62 BAR(9 PSI)or .69 BAR(10 PSI), should yield a big improvement in power over the stock VF7 running at 11 PSI(since it runs out of breath at about 12 PSI anyway). I am sure that I can get a DP flange for it so that I can have a downpipe fabbed for it. Personally, I think that I might hang on to it and install it later on down the road. I am looking for more power, and since this upgrade is basically free(minus all the fabrication costs), I think it will be worth it in the end. Otherwise, I saw a Turbonetics T-3 Turbocharger at a local shop for about $725 Brand New. When the turbo swap project begins with whatever turbo I choose, I'll post the info. I had just posted this to get a couple different perspectives on what will hopefully materialize into my next BIG project. Patrick

Hey all, I was just wanting to get your opinions on a turbocharger that I am going to be getting for free. It is a stock turbocharger from an S13 Silvia(SR20DET) that is in VERY good condition(no shaft play whatsoever and lightly used). I know that there will be alot of fabbing involved, but do you guys think that I should hang on to it and try to use it, or clean it up, sell it off, and use the money to purchase a TD04? Any remarks, advice, or executive decisions are welcomed. Thanks for the feedback. Patrick

Because GOD wouldn't have it any other way!!

If you don't like the body on the EA82T car, then just swap the motor, wiring, and ecu. This will probably be the easiest way to get the best of both worlds. First, the tranny. The EA82T engine will bolt up to your current transmission as Snowman said. So this means you don't have to swap out your cv axles, hubs, etc. The bolt pattern on the engine should be identical to that of your transmission. Secondly, the the crossmembers and exhaust. I can't remember which one would have to be swapped out either, but I would swap in both he crossmembers from the EA82T just to be on the safe side. This will allow the stock EA82T exhaust to fit without clearance issues. I think the exhaust hangers in the rear are in the same places so there shouldn't be any issues with the exhaust bolting up. Just remember that if it still has the stock cat, it needs to be bolted up to the side of the transmission. There may or may not be a threaded hole for it to attach to. Finally, the ecu and wiring. It shouldn't be difficult at all to install the EA82T wiring harness and ecu. I believe that the ecu should still be able to bolt up underneath the dash. Just mark the plugs and sensors with a paint pen or permanent marker so that you know which plug correlates to which sensor. This should be relatively easy to do when you have the engine out. I'd say you can probably have it all swapped and running in 3 days or so if you have access to an engine hoist and the necessary tools. I hope this helps. Patrick

I have experience with them as I worked for Autozone for a year and a half. What exactly are you wanting to know about them? Patrick

Hey Noah, If you decide to go the nitrous route, ZEX makes an air filter that has a provision for a nitrous jet at the very end of the cone filter, that will allow the nitrous a "straight shot" into the intake system. Now I'm not too sure what nitrous would do to the insides of the MAF, but I'm sure it wouldn't be good. I would do as Northwet said and go the MegaSquirt route to eliminate the MAF. Patrick

What kind of Subaru do you have? This will help us help you. BTW, Welcome to the board!!!! Patrick

Nipper, I agree with what you are saying. Alot does depend on your driving needs. If the car is to remain stock, then a new OEM coil would do the trick. If you are modding the engine and increasing boost pressure(which comes with more fueling needs), you can't skimp on the ignition.

The only thing with a compressed air setup, is the fact that you would absolutly have to pipe it into the compressor side. If you introduce compressed air into the exhaust, it would mess with the ecu's air/fuel readings. The other option, which incidently is more expensive, would be to either try a compound supercharger setup, nitrous, or have a custom built hybrid turbocharger made to work under certain operating conditions. The downside is that you would sacrifice some sort of operating efficiency. Not to mention that it will still take time to spool.

So, you are going to tell me that race cars and offroad vehicles should run stock coils and they will gain the most power? Come off it. If that is the case and you have tricked yourself into believing that, then I guess that there is a good probability that you will try to sell me a carb that burns water or maybe even some snake oil. Well, maybe I can interest you in a konuter valve or two, some muffler bearings, or maybe even some ceramic coated roller bearing piston rings. You are right, however, about aftermarket ignitions lessening misfire problems and such. That is what a stronger spark is all about. And on a turbocharged engine it is a must. The more air and fuel that you add, the more chances that the pressurized air and fuel mixture will overwhelm the spark in the cylinder from a "stock" coil, and basically extinguishing the spark. Thus, the reason a stronger spark is needed. Some companies have even prided themsleves on making strong multiple spark events in the cylinders. And with years upon years of research and dyno proven results under their belts, there is no way you can't tell me that they are ALL wrong. It just doesn't work that way.

20%? I'm guessing this is how much stock from Fuji Heavy Industries that GM holds. The news said that GM sold 8.9% of it's stock in FHI to Toyota. I like GM, but that is what happens when you try putting your hand in everyone else's cookie jar. Sometimes you get your hand stuck, if you know what I mean.

Mmmmkay class. Follow the link below: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32024&highlight=fuel+cut+defencer This should answer your questions about the HKS Fuel Cut Defender. Tex has one installed on his car. It will work. Hope this helps. Patrick

I heard something about it on the news this morning. I wouldn't worry too much about it since it is such a small percentage. Patrick

You might want to unplug the connectors until it stops making the noise. It sounds like you got the connectors that are used to check the trouble codes plugged into each other. I'm not sure what color the connectors are as you have an 85(which I'm not too familiar with) and I have an 88. Whenever they are plugged in, it causes the fuel pump to pulse. And if I remember right, someone told me that it isn't good to drive around with them plugged in. Hope this helps. Patrick

If you are looking for power from a coil, it will be kinda hard to find. MSD coils are very good, but you will definitely need to invest in the MSD control module(6A If my memory serves me correct; if not correct me if I'm wrong). Or you might also try switching it up and get your hands on a Jacob's Performance Ignition setup instead. Everyone that I have talked to that runs a Jacob's ignition never has an unkind word about it. Feedback is always positive. Perhaps this will give you the power gain you are looking for.

You might want to plumb your boost gauge in after the intercooler, like somewhere on the intake manifold, instead of before. This way, you will get a true reading of your boost, as it is exactly what the engine is recieving. To answer your original question, fuel cut feels like hitting a brick wall while you're driving, literally. It is a very violent and unpleasant jerk when you hit fuel cut. Almost as if you were driving and someone chained your drivetrain down and it reached the end of the chain's length. I hate hitting fuel cut. It is no fun at all. Oh, and I'm pretty sure that you already know that if your A/F gauge is showing that you are leaning out really quick, you need to make some fuel system mods. A higher flow fuel pump or brand new OEM replacement, an adjustable FPR, a piggyback fuel computer(i.e.: APEXi SAFC, Field SFC, Greddy EManage, etc.) or a standalone fuel computer like a MegaSquirt. You may even want to add a 5th injector (comprised of a Hobbs switch and a cold start injector from either a VW or a Saab.) It is absolutely crucial to get more fuel into the engine somehow. Otherwise, bad JuJu!!! You can cause all kinds of engine damage if you don't.

How much are you asking for the whole car?

That's Awesome!!! I wish I could find a Justy that wasn't in pieces or destroyed. Back in Texas, that was the only way I found them. And over here in Okinawa, the only thing that we have that is anywhere close is the Subaru Vivio. It looks like a modern version of the Justy. If I saw the right car, I think that there are even turbocharged Vivios running around the island. I'll have to pay closer attention next time I see one. Anyways, Congratulations on the new ride!!! Patrick

Welcome to the Forum Kristian. This is THE BEST site for owners of older Subarus. It is packed full of your daily requirements of laughter, technical advice, and it's a part of your complete balanced install!! Just add parts and ENJOY!!! Take Care. Patrick

LOL:lol: Gas whore!!!! J/K Some are in a hurry to go fast, while others can go fast in a hurry. With power comes a cost. And that cost can make you broke!!!! - Patrick Zimmerli, Wed. Sept.28, 2005 That also make me think of this little quote: "Power costs money. How fast do you want to go?!!"

Hey Tex, I am with Shadow on this one. It sounds like a fuelling problem. Factory pressure is 36psi. I have a sneaking suspicion that the low fuel pressure has alot to do with the problem. I do have a question for you concerning the ignition timing. Do you have it at 22 degrees above top dead center or 22 degrees below top dead center?

HEY!!!! WELCOME TO THE BOARDS!!!! It it is always an honor to meet new members. I hope that you enjoy everything the board has to offer. BTW, the cars sound awesome(from what I can gather from your list)!!! Patrick

Have you looked into an EA82T? It should take a minimum in the rewiring department and will directly bolt into the engine compartment. Add a few mods, such as an intercooler, recirculating BOV, and custom exhaust system will bring the EA82T to life. Best of all, they don't do too bad on gas for a turbo engine either.

That is certainly good to hear. My GL-10 did something similar to that to me once. I had downshifted to pass a slow moving vehicle and all of a sudden there is a big whooosh sound(which is never good)and it feels as though the car has no power. So I pulled over to see what the heck the deal was. No sooner do I pop the hood, steam and coolant starts coming from what appeared to be the intake manifold. So I got kinda irritated and started trying to locate the source. Well, come to find out one of the age old coolant lines that run underneath the manifold had split and gotten about a 1/16" hole in it. Luckily I wasn't far from home, and there was plenty of coolant in the radiator and overflow tank, so I was able to limp it home and fix it. I replaced it and all the other little hoses that same night to safeguard against a repeat of this event.

Here are some auctions from Ebay for boost controllers, both electronic and manual. You can see the big price difference in the two kinds of boost controllers. Electronic: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-PROFEC-B-SPEC-2-II-BOOST-CONTROLLER-BLACK-NEW_W0QQitemZ8002461244QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (Profec B Spec II) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-PROFEC-E-01-E01-BOOST-CONTROLLER-UNIVERSAL-NEW_W0QQitemZ8002241899QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (Profec E 01) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-EVC-ELECTRONIC-BOOST-CONTROLLER-GREDDY-APEXI_W0QQitemZ8002120555QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (HKS EVC[electronic valve controller]) Manual: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo-Smart-Manual-Boost-Controller-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ8002304228QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (TurboSmart MBC) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-Turbo-300zx-rx7-280z_W0QQitemZ8002248963QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (This is the boost controller that I have on my GL-10)(SRP MBC) http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hallman-Blue-Pro-Boost-controller-EVO-WRX-Supra-RX-7_W0QQitemZ8002180302QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (Hallman MBC[new design])