4WDFrenzy

If they are the original(hopefully not) axles, then it is pretty probable that one of them could have gone bad. Otherwise, those good ol' wheel bearings may need to be regreased or replaced.

Well, as Boosted said it isn't controlled by the ECU. You have to buy this pressure switch called a "Hobbs switch," if my memory serves me correct. If not, I'm sure someone will provide the correct name for it. Anyhow, the switch is adjustable and turns on the injector at a preset boost level and will shut off automatically when the boost pressure no longer meets the preset level. This keeps the car driveable for day to day driving without it running too rich at low RPMs. It is a great idea and way to increase fueling capacity at higher boost levels and RPMs. The 5th injector is, as you probably know already, is a cold start injector from either a VW or Saab, and just tees into the current fuel line after the fuel filter. Hope that kind of clears it all up.

Well, the manual boost controller that I'm selling is the same kind that I have on my GL-10. I have never had issues with boost spikes or anything like that. I had just bought another one to put on my Starlet Glanza V to up the ante a bit. But since I'm going home and selling the car, I decided to remove it and put it back to stock. Patrick

Well, if you don't mind me asking, do you have an intercooler installed? The first step to increasing power on a turbo car is to cool the air charge. An efficient intercooler will increase engine torque as well as HP output, and will also increase the reliability of the engine. After that, you can turn up the boost. I don't mean to sound like I am trying to lecture you about it, but intercooling is very important when it comes to increasing boost. If you need a manual boost controller to up the boost, I have one that I am willing to sell cheap. Just PM me and let me know. Also, get yourself a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator that comes with a gauge. Turn up the fuel pressure(to 42psi) along with the boost and you have the makings for a real fun to drive car, not to mention that the extra fuel will keep it from leaning out toward the top part of the gears. I hope this helps. Patrick

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Looks pretty good!!! I particularly like the color of the pipe. Congratulations on a job well done!!! Patrick

You might try getting your hands on a transmission jack. It will make things a whole lot easier. Yes, you will still have to take the driveshaft apart and maybe even take the cv axles loose, but it will be worth it. I changed the clutch in my GL-10 Wagon out with some help from a friend and two floor jacks +4 jack stands. It was a royal pain in the rear(mainly because it was the first Subaru that I had ever changed the clutch on), but it got the job done. The whole time I was changing the clutch, I was kicking myself for not buying a transmission jack, considering it only cost $49.99 at Harbor Freight Tools. But, you live and you learn.

Maybe I'm missing something, but what are you referring to as far as removing the IAC Valve?

Thank You for the info. I did happen to disassemble the driveshaft during the clutch replacement and forgot to mark the orientation. I guess I'll have a little project on my hands when I return! Thanks a bunch!!!

I agree with what everyone else has said. Sadly the EA82Ts don't come with BPVs or intercoolers from the factory.:-\ Anyway, about the BOV question, I wouldn't install it unless you plan on getting rid of the catalytic converter. It would be more beneficial to run an open air element(cone filter) and plumb the BPV back into the intake pipe, if you want to hear the BPV when it releases pressure(Believe it or not, it is actually quite audible). A better idea is to get a custom fenderwell intake made with a fitting to accomodate the BPVs return hose. So not only would you get the benefit of drawing colder air into the engine, but you would also have the pressurised air recirculating(when the BPV releases pressure) back to the inlet to the turbocharger, which, by the way, also helps to keep the turbo spooled.

Hey all. My Father informed me today that the seal where the driveshaft goes into the rear differential, is now leaking. My car is in his care as he is still in the states. I will be returning in the next few weeks for some R & R and was just wondering how difficult it is to replace. It looked pretty straight forward, but I was just wondering if anyone has ever replaced theirs and how hard of a job it was. Also, is there a certain way that the driveshaft is supposed to fit together? What I mean is, I would assume that the driveshaft is balanced. But if it isn't balanced, is it possible that when I replaced my clutch, that I reinstalled the front half of my driveshaft wrong? My reason for asking is that I figured that if it wasn't, the vibration could've caused the seal to leak. I noticed that after I replaced the clutch, there was kind of a strange vibration that seemed to be coming from the driveline. If anyone can shed some light on this for me, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks everybody!!! Patrick

Caleb, man, the cars lookin' superb!!! It looks slick with the RX air dam and the WRX alloys. I guess a whole lot has changed since I left Texas(I'm a little behind the times), you know with your new house and all. Hey, if you know where to find another RX lower air dam, please let me know. You have got a heck of alot more connections when it comes to subaru's than I do. I'll be more than happy to send you the money for it, plus some money for your troubles. Enjoy the new house!! Patrick

I must agree with everyone else, that car is pimp!!! Keep it, save some cash for a motor swap(stock or otherwise)if you really don't feel like doing it yourself. Heck, I'm pretty sure that there are people nearby who would be willing to help out if you ask them. Just plan out what you want to do to it and then save up.

Maybe I missed something, but why are you selling it? If I were closer, and had a few thousand to spare, I'd buy it from you(I love older subies!!!) . Good luck selling it!!! Patrick

As far as I remember reading, the (US & JDM)EA82Ts are the same physically. Now if you get the JDM ecu with it, then you will have a 130hp base fuel maps, rather than 115hp.

I'm not sure about the EA82(NA), but the EA82Ts have 180cc injectors.

That is truly beautiful!!! It's a very, very clean install. You deserve a giant pat on the back for a job well done!!! Keep up the good work! Patrick

Hey, I have a bellmouth downpipe on my GL-10 and it works exceptionally well. It funnels down into a 2.25"pipe that goes all the way back to the muffler. I am considering upgrading the downpipe to 2.5" dia. when I get back. Here it is in my list of mods from way back: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24110&page=3&pp=10

Hhheeeeeeeyyy, watch it!!! Stop beating a dead horse. That has nothing to do with this topic. Now back to the topic at hand, Honda vans aren't that bad. They are actually pretty comfy. My friend Jason's mom has one back in Texas and it is nice in my opinion. Now, would I trade in my WRX or GL-10 in on one? Heck no. Would I get one just to haul friends, family and parts comfortably? Probably. It is one of th few Hondas that I would actually consider owning, IF I was in the market for a van. But not to worry, what you own isn't going to make us think any less of you.

I understand. I'm still in the gray area about where I'm wanting to go with my ignition system. MSD makes really great ignition systems. I don't know, I may wind up giving an MSD setup a whirl in the old wagon. I kinda like the idea of having the multiple spark during each cylinder combustion cycle. That should unleash some ponies considering that I have plenty of fuel to burn(42psi worth from an AFR plus a new fuel pump that is putting out 95psi of line pressure before the regulator). The only thing that I am running right now for an ignition upgrade is an ACCEL Super Coil and some NGK Iridium plugs. Everything else is still stock. We'll just have to see how the money situation goes when I come back.

Well, I figured that I would leave it up to everyone to decide since I don't have any personal experience with this product. I just happened to look up an 88 Subaru with 1.8L MPFI/turbo and it brought up a part number. Too bad these capacitors don't have their own individual grounding wires. That would make the power enhancement aspect a little more believable, considering that Nology produces spark plug wires with capacitors(w/individual grounds) in them and they are dyno tested(did a little bit of internet research). I guess I could always get the universal spark plug grounding kit that they sell over here. It allows you to run extra grounds directly to the spark plug base. I wonder if what would happen if they were used in tandem with an MSD set-up w/ aftermarket coil?

You know, I would've never thought of that. That would be pimp!!! Just needs a WRX scoop for the hood and some assorted mods under the hood and it would be the shizzle my nizzle!!

Hey, do you have Nology plugs and plug wires installed on your car?

I'm pretty sure that you all have heard of this system. It enhances spark output at the plugs via capacitors that mount between the spark plug tops and spark plug wire boots. It claims to increase your torque and horsepower, which in turn, improves your acceleration. The systems are not for the faint of heart(or the light of pocketbook) as they can be very expensive(*theatrical doom music plays*), who would've guessed? Is there anything to these systems, or is it just another fad? You'll have to decide for yourself. But for those of you that are thinking about purchasing the Direct Hits system, here is the link: http://www.directhits.com/index.html If nobody tries it, I'll try it myself and post the results. But everyone might have to wait for those, as I won't be back in the states for 4 years. Anyhow, I just figured that I would let everyone know.

Look, I'm not too sure what your problem is, but I'm not one to sit back and be picked at. If this message comes across as being rude, then you understand the way it was meant. My car is in perfect running order. All components of my cooling system were working just fine with the 192 in it. I changed it because in case you didn't know, the cooler your engine runs, the less thermal stress is put on its components(also including: oil, coolant, turbocharger bearings, etc.). So don't try to give me some BS line about it not making a difference. It is better to be safe than sorry. Besides that, I have been modding cars for years. My Gl-10 was the first Subaru that I had ever owned and also the first turbo car. I have worked around turbo cars in the past and happen to know a thing or two about them. One of which is," if you're looking for power, heat is definatly not your friend." So if you're wanting to be all enviromentally friendly(which I happen to be), freakin' put a cat on the darn thing. That'll make a bigger difference in reducing emmissions than some stupid thermostat. Secondly, not all of us go by our "beliefs", as you put it. Some of us (like myself) go by what we know works, aka:factual information. This might be info that was passed down through the ages or info that came from a life experience. Why do you think so many ask questions concerning their cars? So they can learn something. Now, believe that!