4WDFrenzy

Eh........Why not. Here is another vote for lean and hot. My plugs looked like that when I changed them in my GL-10. I started fearing the worst, so I replaced them(with NGK Iridiums) and adjusted the fuel pressure up(after installing my Adjustable FPR) to 42psi and that did the trick. Now mine get that nice reddish brown look to them and the car pulled great throughout the powerband. My timing is very advanced, but I also have a very efficient intercooler(Starion) to cool the air charge. You gotta love it when you can hot rod the car all night and come home, pop the hood, and the intercooler core is as cool to the touch as the outside air.

91 Loyale, those are pretty nice. There are multiple posibilities, ranging from small mods like cutting out the air box to doing a complete motor swap. It all depends on what your brain and most importantly, wallet, allow you to do. A good place to start is a fresh set of plugs and plug wires. You might also replace the distributor cap and rotor to gain back some of that lost ignition efficiency. This will also help you achieve better gas mileage along with some ponies that you may have thought were out to pasture. I have an 88 GL-10 Wagon(EA82T w/5 speed full-time 4wd). Here is a list of my mods: Complete 3" aluminum fenderwell intake(from filter to turbocharger inlet) Stainless steel cone filter MAF adapter(of course) SRP Manual Boost Controller(Set at 11psi) 2.25" diameter turbo back exhaust w/ custom bellmouth downpipe TopSpeed Pro 1 canister muffler Accel Super Coil NGK Iridium spark plugs Ported(lightly) Turbocharger(VF7) Catco High Flow catalytic converter Starion Intercooler Intercooler piping(high temp ceramic paint)w/ thermal wrap(on pipe from IC-TB) Recirculating BPV WRX hood scoop Power steering cooler RhinoPac clutch New Fuel Pump(95psi max line pressure[factory pump is 71psi max]) Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Soon to come(when I return from Japan): Water Spray system for intercooler 2.5" bellmouth downpipe(or possibly divorced wategate w/ downstream merge) HKS fuel cut defencer 6 pass Oil Cooler w/filter sandwich adapter Scorpion wheels(if I can afford them) lots of bodywork And hopefully be able to trun the boost up to 12psi without the car hitting fuel cut See, it all depends on what you want to make the car do. Most of the parts that I acquired for my GL-10, I paid less than $40 for, with the exceptions of the exhaust, the intercooler, and the clutch. Hopefully this will give you a little insight into what can be done. There are people on the boards here whose cars are modded more than this. You can make it mild or wild. A trophy keeper or a street sleeper. But that my friend, is up to you. Patrick

Today(well it's daytime in Japan), I was looking at eBaymotors trying to see what I could see, when all of a sudden I came across this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33553&item=7983785387&rd=1 Whoever is building these, he says that they are complete units that come with everything to install and he's also tested them to ensure that they are working. I just figured that everyone would want to know about this. Patrick

Well, I just didn't want to come across like I was trying to pick a fight, that's all.

If you don't mind me asking, Todd, what are you driving?

Hey Gary, I'm not trying to pick at you or start any trouble, but the tornado isn't that bad. All the fins on it are doing is redirecting the airflow, not stopping it all together. Yeah, it's true that they don't work on all cars, but I owned one a couple years back. I had it installed in a 2000 Dodge Stratus(2.4L DOHC w/ATX) and it worked. Not as well as they advertise on the commercials, but I did gain about 3 mpg more than before and it also made the engine feel a little more torquey. Now considering that the thing cost me about $30 on eBay, the gains weren't all that worth it in my opinion. I'm sorry if I ruffled your feathers any. I'll bring a brush by and get 'em put back in place for you!!!LOL Patrick

Okay, now I just feel stupid(*face turning 10 shades of red*)!

Okay, here is the deal. As far as injectors go, I believe that it is the old Nissan/Datsun 280Z injectors that fit. Only problem is that with the stock ecu controlling the pulse width of the injectors, you won't really feel a difference. I believe that Will(WJM) has tried this out before with no outstanding performance results. Since these cars have inline fuel pumps, your possibilities are kinda endless. I know Walbro makes an inline 255LPH fuel pump, which is probably the way to go. Finally, aftermarket ecu. If my memory serves me correctly, you can get a UniChip for it, but you'll pay an arm and a leg for it. There are a lot of people running MegaSquirt with good results. But the con to this is, that most shops do not know how to tune with MegaSquirt. So I don't know what to tell you about that. I hope this helps you out in some way.Patrick

Hey Caleb, when Spencer(the previous owner of my GL-10) helped me change the clutch and cv axles, we lowered the whole tranny, and then removed it. I'll put it to you this way, it is always good to have a second set of hands(preferably mechanically inclined ones) around when performing this task. If I were still in Texas, I'd lend you a hand(or two in this case). We drained the tranny first, kinda by accident. Spencer decided that it would be a great idea to lower the rear of the tranny while he pryed it away from the engine with a prybar. Well, as you know, the tailshaft seal isn't exactly the most leak or spill-proof part of the transmission. So as you can guess, I got a freakin' 80w90 gear oil bath!!! But I guess I can Thank GOD for little miracles, because it was heck of alot easier to manuever without all that gear oil in it. Anyway, my point is recruit some help. It will make things a ton easier.

Welcome to the forums. You have a great car on your hands. Treat her with respect and dignity, and in return she'll give you many a happy memory. Patrick

It might be a bad filament in the bulb itself. I encountered the same situation about 5 months ago. The filament for the low beam had severed and its remains had become entangled with the high beam filament, which basically caused a short circuit. An easy way to check is to try plugging the bulb you suspect is bad, into the other headlight socket and see if it operates normally. If it does operate normally, then check the fuse. If not, you have about a five minute headlight bulb replacement job on you hands.

I have but one thing to say,"Fuel Pump." It is sad but true. Most of the time if it starts to surge while cruising, the fuel pump is on it's way to the retirement home. Try changing it out. Mine stopped surging once I replaced it. Just beware of the "gasoline bath" that comes with the territory.

I used a set of die grinding stones that I bought at Wal-Mart for like $10. They worked great. I also used them with the cheap $18 corded drill that I bought there as well and mine turned out great. If you are going to use a Dremel though, buy a Dremel brand tungsten carbide bit for it. It works well, but you have to be extremely careful when applying hand pressure to it as it will cut into the cast iron very quickly. And if you aren't careful, it may cut deeper into it than you may have wanted. As far as porting & polishing the turbo, make the inlet to the exhaust snail rounded and tapered, like a funnel or the bell of a trumpet. In theory, the funnel shape will decrease the turbulence often occurs in this area and it should aid in the responsiveness of you turbocharger as well. I would also advise removing the compressor snail and go over the inlet, inside(as much as you can reach),and outlet with 2000grit sandpaper. The best thing to do though is to send the compressor snail out to be bored. This will allow the turbo to move a bit more air under boost and also increase compressor efficiency a tad. I hope this helps.

What you will want to do is take a piece of hose and loop it from the coolant feed line( the metal line that comes from the passenger side head;from the bottom of the engine) to the return which is on the thermostat housing, and clamp both ends. This will safely bypass the turbocharger housing, but I wouldn't suggest running it like that for a long period of time. The coolant helps to evacuate heat from the turbocharger bearing housing, or center section if you will, to extend the lifespan of the turbocharger and reduce the chance of bearing failure.

I think he is refering to the electric fan. Sometimes they come on but as far as I can tell mine only came on after the car had been idling for a while(Longer than 10 minutes). I was told by the previous owner that the electric fan never came on with the air conditioner. He said it was more or less a fail safe to keep the engine from overheating.

Hi Simon, as far as the boost controller goes, they are worth their weight in gold in my opinion. I wouldn't however, install one until you purchase and install some kind of intercooler along with a way to flow cool air across the core(top mount or front mount). Otherwise, it won't "make for a good day," if you catch my drift. But I have one installed on my '88 GL-10 and it runs great. I bought my manual boost controller off of eBay for about $15(incl. shipping) from a guy whose SN is SRPBrent. It is solid when it comes to boost, no spiking whatsoever. And it actually made the turbo spool a touch quicker than it did stock. As for the boost kicking in too fast, these motors do it naturally because of the small turbo. The only way to counteract this is to buy and install a larger turbocharger. But as you can guess, there is a whole lot of drama involved with this process, like fueling and also more airflow. I'm not too sure what to tell you, but hopefully this will help you better determine which path to travel down. Patrick

Well, it rains alot(which I don't mind) because it's monsoon season. The native Okinawans are awesome. They are very courteous and helpful, but don't get in the way when work lets out. They'll fly around you at break neck speed just to get to that lovely 6ft of realestate in front of your car. Also most of the Americans here are cool. Then you have the handful of bungholes that are just jerks 24hrs a day. Other than that, getting to see 300-500whp cars on a daily basis is pretty cool I guess. Oh and I can't forget, getting to watch F-15 Eagles and F-18 Super Hornets take off under full afterburner is neat-o too.

I'll see what I can do. I'm looking for wheels similar to that for my wagon, but service before self.:cool:

MMmmmmmmkay!!! Roger that!

Hey it was a pleasure meeting you as well. Tell Lillian that it will be a while before we can come back and visit(sometime within the next 2 years). I'll try to get out to the junkyards within the next week. I'll be getting there in style too via a 96 Toyota Starlet GT(Turbo*Insert Tim Allen Grunt*)

Right on, right on. I was about to say, don't get rid of those beauties, and in the case that you were ever to think about it, hit me up:brow: !!! J/K

It's one of two things. Either it's a cracked head or it's a blown headgasket, both require you to pull the engine. Cracked heads aren't as common as blown headgaskets to the best of my knowledge, but I'm pretty sure either way it'll be somewhat of a pain in the butt.

Also, make sure that there isn't a pungent burnt circuit smell. If this is present, time to catch the magic horsepower genie in another ecu.

Man Styles, Those wheels are Da' Hotness!!! So what did you do with the black ones?

Hey everybody, just wanted to send a little shout out to you all from Okinawa, Japan. Haven't checked out the junkyards yet, but when I do, you can bet that I will be coming home with a few goodies. If anyone needs anything from here, I'll try to see what I can do for you. Take it easy. Patrick