4WDFrenzy

I had a situation like that when I first got my GL-10 running. It would idle fine, but it would miss very badly when under load. So I played with the ignition timing and Voila!!! It did the trick. You might try that. Let me ask a stupid question, have you by chance installed an intercooler? If not, you might try that because it makes the advanced timing thing a little more flexible, considering that the air charge will be much cooler. Just a little extra food for thought.

No unless your gaskets are damaged and leaky. Just make sure that you doon't lose the little copper washers when removing the coolant lines(they go between the pipes and the turbocharger housing and also between the bolts and the pipes).

If you are looking for a good engine oil to put in it, you might want to try some Royal Purple 10W30 or some Mobil1 10W30. But since Royal Purple in most areas is a bit out of most people's budget($5.99 a quart here), so you might try for the Mobil1. For filters, Wix or Subaru OEM would both be good choices. Gear oil I was using 80w90, but I am going to change it to 85w140 since it often times reaches triple digit temperatures here during the summer. 75w90 should work just fine though. You can use sythetic oil or dino, whichever is your preference. Same goes for the rear diff.

I tried to replace mine without taking the turbo off, and as you can guess, the car won that little battle. The easiest way is to just take the 4 nuts off of the downpipe and use a prybar to pry between the downpipe flange and the turbocharger, pushing it toward the firewall until it clears the studs. It should pop right off. This will give you access to the nut on the mounting flange that is at the rear of the turbo. Coincidentally, this nut is partially obscured by the downpipe flange when it is bolted on. The other 2 nuts can be gotten to by using a 6 inch extension(to clear the body of the turbocharger) and a 14mm socket. Just remember before completely removing the turbocharger mounting nuts, remove the coolant pipes from the turbocharger(I think they are 17mm bolts that hold them on) and also take any clamps that might be holding rubber hoses off before removing the turbo unit itself. Before you reinstall the turbocharger, just make sure that your mounting flange gasket and downpipe gasket are still in good shape, otherwise of course they will need to be replaced with fresh gaskets. Who knows, maybe if you have the resources, you can do a little porting to the exhaust inlet and wastegate area of the turbocharger while it's off. Hope this info helps.Patrick

Jay, Jay what can I say except you're the man!!! You have done an absolutely outstanding job on the install. You have inspierd me to the point that I am starting to seriously think about converting to a front mount setup when I come back from Okinawa. I don't want you to think that I'm green with envy, or a biter, or anything, but I do like the way you did everything.Congrats on the awesome setup and keep up the good work! Patrick

Brad.........You're.........You're a.............You're a mean, mean man!!!:-p I was all sad when I started reading your post, but it was a good April's Fool prank. Happy April Fool's Day everybody!

THE VERDICT IS IN(as is the new fuel pump): It took me just over 45 minutes to install the new pump. I had to make some modifications to the mounting clamp and also drill out and re-tap a bolt hole(stupid rusty bolts!! LOL), but it is in and the car is running better than ever. I don't have any solid proof on paper that there is a power gain, but you can sure feel it when in boost so you'll all just have to take my word for it. The only real drawback is that the fuel pump is a bit on the noisy side, but it isn't anything that is unliveable. All in all, I would have to say that I would highly recommend installing this pump if your fuel pump is in need of replacement or you have enough mods(like those of you who have RRFPRs) to require a larger fuel pump. That $101.95 investment at Autozone was worth every penny.

Yes. It has been in there for about 3 or 4 months now. Thanks to it, that is one of the ways that helped me to rough tune my GL-10 when I installed my RRFPR. I'll tell you one thing, upping the fuel at the rail helps alot, even when you are only running like 10-11psi of boost.

PRICELESS. No wait, that'll be $300 please. I accept cash and checks. LOL

HHhhhmmmm. *(Sarcastically)* You can give one to me and keep one for yourself. Then both cars will be happy because they both will get to live!!! Just kidding!!! LOL Actually, if they both run, I would drive both of them. You know, give driving a little variety. Spice things up a little bit. BTW, Congratulations on getting the XT. Sounds like that guy was trying to pull some shady stuff with you, and still you prevailed.

Well, as of this present moment I'm running like 39psi of static fuel pressure out of my RRFPR at idle, and when I drive it, beliiieeeve me, it makes a big difference in performance over what stock can do. So I'm pretty sure that when I install the new pump and turn the pressure to 42psi, that should make somewhat of an improvement, no matter how small.

LOL:lol: No, no, it's the right pump. I triple checked the part number and also looked everything over very closely to make sure it was the right one before I purchased it. Besides, for the longest time there was a rumor going around that I was going to sue Autozone, and after that, any time my wife and I, or just me alone would enter the store, everyone was kinda walking on eggshells and bending over backwards to get me what I wanted. Funny thing is, any time I go in there now, I have the run of the store. So I'm not worried.

Shoot, I wish I could've gotten mine for that price. The funny thing is, before my wife and I went to North Carolina a couple of weeks ago, it was $70, well $69.99, same difference. But when we came back, the price had shot up to $101.95. Good ol' AUTOZONE likes to molest people's pocketbooks at will. But I'm pretty sure you know how that goes.

Oddly enough, the same place that fired me for getting injured on the job(not my fault), AUTOZONE. It is kinda expensive though($101.95+ tax). But then again, it is a direct fit, no modding needed.

Well I'm definately hoping for some improvement, even if it is just a minute one.

That is very true. I did a mild port and polish job about a year ago with a turbo that I got off a turbocharged Ford Probe(Yes I realize it's the same turbo). Anyway, it came out great and it took me about a week, with some help from some die grinder bits(grinding stones), an el-cheapo drill that I bought at Wally world, and a tungsten carbide dremel bit. It probably would have gone alot quicker if I had a die grinder but sometimes you gotta roll with the punches and make due. I also took the compressor side off and polished it out to a mirror finish using some 2000 grit sandpaper. It flowed great and spool-up response was definately increased. Now I want to accomplish the same thing with the turbo that I have on my Subie before I go to Okinawa.

The reason for my asking is because I have been entertaining the idea of porting and polishing the compressor side. Hypothetically, it should make the turbo a little more efficient. Anyone have any thoughts? Please forgive me Will, I'm not intentionally trying to thread jack.

Okay, something funny happened to me this past Friday. I went out and bought a brand new fuel pump for my GL-10. So....... I get to looking at the fuel pump to make sure that it was the same(looks and specs) as the original one. Anyway, I start looking at the fuel pump and it says 12volt this, blah, blah, blah, Max pressure 95psi, blah, blah, blah, blah.....................[screaching sounds]?????????!!!!!! 95PSI?!!! What the heck? I thought that the factory psi rating was only 71psi at max? It is made by a company called MASTER(part# E8312). With the adjustable FPR that I have, hopefully it will make a difference in performance, if not, at least I have a new fuel pump with a lifetime warranty. Well, I just thought i would let everybody know about what I found. Patrick

That looks pretty darn good. Did they only port and polish the exhaust side?

GravelRX, that install looks awesome! It seems as if everything is coming together nicely. Will is right about the paint. It will act as an insulator to the heat, keeping it inside the pipe. If you want to keep the IC to TB side cooler, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a roll of aluminized insulation( it looks like aluminized bubble wrap). I have this on my intercooler piping and it works exceptionally well by helping to keep the pipe carrying the cool air from geting heat soaked. It also works well on the intake piping to the turbo. The cooler the air starts out, the cooler and more dense the air charge will be once it gets compressed and sent through the intercooler to the engine; i.e., yeilding better conditions for making good horsepower. Patrick

Wow!! That's great to hear. It's always good to hear that someone defeated the fuel cut monster. I'm not sure what the heck is up with my car. I can run 11psi all day long with no fuel cut. One time I was actually running 12psi, but it only happened once. The moment I tried to run more than that, the car hit fuel cut again and I was forced to reduce the boost back to 11psi again. I suppose that I'll either buy or build an FCD sometime in the future.

It doesn't matter to me. My WRX is still getting some Royal Purple and a WIX filter.

Anyone have any thoughts or experiences with the GFB(GoFastBits) WRX Hybrid BOV? I recently purchased one "used", but in good condition for $40. I got a great deal on it considering that it costs $200 some odd dollars plus shipping. Anyway, if anyone has anything to share about this BOV, I would greatly appreciate any info, good or bad. Thanks. Patrick

This past week, I purchased a hood scoop splitter on eBay from a guy with the screen name Subie2002WRX. It was very easy to install and the thing works great. It is cheaper than going out and purchasing one from a big name company and the cool thing is, it works just as well for close to a third of the cost($32 incl. shipping; I'm off by like $8 on the ratio). I thought it was a good deal considering the others that I found cost in the ballpark of $120. I know that many of you are purchasing front mount intercoolers, but this is a good mod for those with stock setups. It deflects airflow across the front half of the intercooler, thus further enhancing the cooling capabilities of the OEM top mount IC. Just thought I would let those who are still running TMICs and wanted to purchase this mod cheaply.

Yeah, that DOES sound really annoying. Man I wish I knew what the heck was wrong with it. I'm sorry that I'm not of more help.