4WDFrenzy

As much as I would love to buy one, there are 2 fundamental problems for me.#1: I would get slightly pummeled by my wife for wearing this shirt(because of the half naked girl covering her boobs), not to mention that I have two very impressionable children who are smart as a whip and it isn't exactly an image that I would want to put in their heads(especially my daughter). I mean don't get me wrong, if I were still a single guy I'd probably get a couple of them, but so goes the married life. #2: It wouldn't get here in time before I leave Okinawa. But I can see what I can do about hooking you guys up with a donation if that will help. Patrick

The Blaster 2 should work just fine. There are a few members here that have them and they, to the best of my knowledge, haven't had any issues attributed to the MSD coils. I hope this helps and good luck on your exhaust project. Patrick

Yeah, my wagon was my first turbo car, although I had been working on other turbo cars for a couple of years beforehand. I wanted to see what the VF7 could do, but I made sure that I intercooled it before I even got it road worthy again. But now I have a compressor upgrade for my VF7 that I want to play with until I can muster the money(or con the wife) for a TD04. But I guess only time will tell. I'll have 4 years in Cali coming up to find out, so we'll see. Patrick

To Loyale 2.7 Turbo: Thank you so much for scanning and posting that article and the pics. Those pics are amazing! Patrick

But that is not what this thread is about. This is about finding the right combo of parts and mods to reach 150HP. And nobody said anything to the point of horsepower being cheap. I seem to remember Carroll Shelby as saying, "Horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to go?" So of course it isn't going to be cheap. But with turbos like the TD04, it is very possible to break 120WHP, so you can safely put your BS flag away. Heck for all you and I know, 88RxTuner's car could be pushing into the 140-150HP realm with his setup. But without getting it dynoed, we'll never know(And I understand that there isn't a whole lot you can do about that right now 88RxTuner). So while you may not believe him, you don't have to call Bull**** every single time someone posts any bit of info that you don't agree with. This forum is here to help people learn, not to berate them. We could go back and forth about this all day long, but in the end, neither of us will be 100% right 100% of the time, especially with new technologies and engineering. What I'm trying to get at is, at the end of the day, we all need to be a little more considerate in what we say and how we treat others here. We're a Big Family after all. Patrick

I'm not trying to start a flame war with you there bud, but those are some very conservative numbers with 1 Bar of boost(14.7 psi). Are you talking about WHP(wheel horsepower) or CHP(crank horsepower)? Now I could see 130WHP, but not CHP. If an EA82T can manage 160CHP, you could be making an estimated 134.4WHP after subtracting for the driveline loss(16-17%). I forgot where I read that(the driveline loss percentage), and no it WAS NOT Wickipedia, but the author was saying that it is the average driveline loss for most AWD systems. How true it is, I don't know, but it is close to the figures for the 2002+ WRXs(Yr.:2002/CHP:227HP/WHP:190.68HP). Don't believe me, look it up. Patrick

It's the same old story as always, the Europeans get the same motors and vehicles as the Japanese, and the Americans get the detuned models. I think that it is payback for WWII or something. Just kidding! Patrick

Ok, come on people! If you can get 130+ HP out of a 98HP non-vtec Honda motor with a bolt on turbo kit w/ fuel riser and a rom tune, 130-150 crank HP out of an already turbocharged(mind you, maybe not the best designed engine) EA82T should be more than feasible with the proper modifications. One of our members by the SN of presslab has been making leaps and bounds with the electronic side of things. Just do a search. With some engine and tuning know how and a little electronic slight of hand, making respectable HP numbers shouldn't be a problem. Now I'm not talking about making a 400HP monster or anything, but 150-170 crank HP can be done. Patrick

I'd love one. Only problem being that my wife(that I love so much) refuses to let me make such a purchase. Reason being, I quit my $9.11/hr job to take care of my son when he was born because childcare here in Okinawa is insane! So fast forward 2-1/2 years and I'm still at home, with no job, and now I have a son and a daughter. So alot of what could have been "Fun Money" goes toward my childrens' wants and needs. But I'm still trying to be optomistic and hopeful that I may come across one at the right price, at the right time. So for now, I just have to continue to play with the VF7. Patrick

That is the chief complaint with the EA82T. The turbo is so small that it can't feed enough air to the engine at higher rpms. I am still running the stock VF7, although I have mine pushing 11psi on the boost gauge and I'm only running 2-1/4" exhaust from the turbo back. Sounds like it may be time for an upgrade. Patrick

Let me ask this, does the engine idle smooth, or is it a choppy idle? Also, what does it sound like when the engine rpms are increased? The reason that I ask is because in the time that I have been working on cars(which is about 12 years), I have learned that when troubleshooting a problem on a car that you can't physically put your hands on, every bit of information "tells a tale" so to speak. If you could provide us with a little more detail about the problem, it may make it easier to find the solution. From the info that you have provided thus far, I'd be willing to speculate that it has a leak somewhere after the MAF. Did he take the hose that runs from the air cleaner(air box) to the turbo off to replace the spark plug that is under it? Patrick

I don't think that you need to RTV the bolts. Usually the rear main seal is the culprit when you get oil leaking onto the clutch. I would put some threadlocker on the bolt threads before installing them. That should keep any fluids from leaking past the bolt threads. I hope that this helps and I'm glad to hear that you are going to have a little reunion with Bucky. You guys don't have too much fun, ok? Just kidding! Enjoy!!! Patrick

Well I wasn't saying that it couldn't be done necessarily. What I was trying to get at is that the EA82T has such a narrow powerband that when you go past it, the engines like to develop "attitude problems," or maybe it is just mine, I don't know. I've taken mine into the almost 8k realm on one occasion. Of course, I was kinda in a bad mood and didn't really pay attention to the tachometer until I heard the engine really winding up there, looked at the tach, said "Oh Crap!" and quickly shifted into 4th, and subsequently into 5th. I have a sneaky suspicion that that one instance was a contributing factor to the rod knock that my car developed after I left the states. That and I think that my car was ticked because I had to leave her behind. Patrick

Thanks for the quality info. That was exactly the info that I was looking for. Patrick

Thanks for the info. I don't mind you posting in my thread as I know what you mean about getting logged out. It did it to me 3 times earlier. But anyway, Thanks for the anti roll bar info. Patrick

Oh, and not to be a post whore or anything, but the biggest thing to remember about EA82Ts is that aside from not liking to be overheated(what engine does?) they do not really like high RPMs much(above 6k). So as long as you aren't really wrapping out the RPMs everytime you drive it, you should be relatively safe, and I use relatively as a loose term. Patrick

+infinity!!...LOL WAICs are actually the most efficient intercoolers you can find as it uses liquid(Water, Coolant, etc.) as a medium to remove heat from the incoming air charge instead of air. Air to Air ICs are dependent on airflow over the fins to provide cooling. WAICs keep the temps stable and doesn't require a hood scoop or bumper modification(or at least not much). The most trouble that you may run into is running the wiring for the circulation pump. I honestly wish that I could have afforded one, but I got a Starion FMIC for cheap, so I went that route. It is mounted in a TMIC configuration, added a WRX hood scoop, a BPV, and it all works perfectly. 4X4_Welder, I will say one thing though. If you decide to go with an Air to Air IC, try to get one that is internally finned(cooling fins inside the air passages). They act as heat sinks and can more efficiently extract heat from the charge air. Hope this helps. Patrick

Wait! My big question is what do you use to hold the exhaust impeller still while removing the nut? Patrick

I have always considered an IC to be essential for a turbo car, especially on these old subarus. It will add a little longevity to the engine and increase efficiency as well, along with a small torque increase. If you can get an intercooler at a reasonable price that is in good condition, I say go for it! You have to remember that most of these engines are 20+ years old, so every little bit helps. One thing that everyone seems to forget though is that EA82Ts run the poor little 180cc injectors at close to 80% duty cycle if I remember correctly, to help cool the air charge because of the lack of IC. One thing that will also help is the addition of a fuel cooler, which is more or less an oil cooler mounted inline with the fuel line going to the engine. I forgot where I read about this at, but I do remember the article saying that the addition of a fuel cooler can slightly increase HP & torque. So this may be another avenue that can be taken to increase the longevity of these engines along with cooling system improvements. Patrick

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies. The major reason that I need to remove the impeller is that I have a ported compressor snail and a larger impeller waiting to go in. But it's cool. I'll just wind up sending it off and having a turbocharger repair shop do all of the work I guess. In that way it can all be balanced so that I know that it will last and I don't have to feel guilty about killing a $170 turbo upgrade if something not so good happens. I was just kinda hoping that it was something that I could do myself so that I could save a few bucks and get a little wrench time in learning to disassemble a turbo. Oh well. Patrick

I've done it before. I used the mylar backed insulation that almost looks like bubble wrap. I used it on my wife's old Dodge Stratus when we owned it because the car sat out in direct sunlight for the better part of the day(8-9 hrs.) After installing it above the headliner and also the doors and floor boards, the change in temps was very dramatic, especially when a sun visor was used. I might also add, that this particular car also had tinted windows(35% front/ 20% rear). It(the insulation, not window tint) also works quite well for wrapping intercooler piping. Patrick

Wow!....Yikes! Good to know. I always wondered about that. Well that kinda sucks considering that the impeller needs to be removed. Well, I guess I had better start pricing out shop charges and shipping rates. Thanks for the info. It was really helpful. Patrick

Gee, that makes me want to go out and buy one now. I like the idea of extra torque, considering what the EA82T puts out in stock form. If only I knew that I would live to see my 30th birthday wouldn't become a headline in a local newspaper for buying one..LOL:lol: Maybe in the not so distant future. Patrick

Why not take a small butane or propane torch and heat the pulley? I'm not talking about holding it there until the belt melts to the pulley, but pass the torch across the face of the pulley for a couple of minutes. Since steel transfers heat really well, it shouldn't take anything but a couple of minutes to get the fluid in the reservoir warmed up enough to keep the pump from squeeling, if that be the case. Before doing anything like this though, check the belt tension to make sure that it isn't just a loose belt. I hope this helps. Patrick

I was wondering, has anyone on the forum ever disassembled a VF7 turbo? I'm not just talking about removing it from the manifold and out of the engine bay, but actually a complete teardown? My turbo doesn't necessarily need to be completely taken apart, but I might as well freshen things up a bit while I have it apart. What I need to know mainly is what all is required, aside from removing the bolts that hold the compressor and exhaust snails from their respective housings, to remove the compressor from the shaft? And NO, sending it off to a shop is not an option, and no GD, as much fun as an engine swap would be, it just isn't on the menu this time around...LOL. Anyway, I will only have roughly a week to complete this and various other tasks for a PCS to California. If anyone can help, any and all help would be very much appreciated. Thanks to all in advance. Patrick