4WDFrenzy

Congratulations!!!! Wow!! That sounds like a "serial killer" among cars that are going to be very unsuspecting. That is awesome. Your parts list makes me want to go into a dark corner, have a beer and maybe a good cry. LOL Anyway, have fun with it. Patrick

Ummmmmmm...........No I don't think it would. Usually exhaust parts start to glow red when the engine has been run really hard for an extended period of time or if your engine starts leaning out and not getting enough fuel, and that my friend will make for bad Joo-Joo!(ex.: melted piston(s), burnt valves, blown headgasket, etc.)

I personally wouldn't recommend it. It will run, but it will run like a dog. And a beaten down old dog at that. What exactly is wrong with the turbo?

After reading that post, I don't think I'll be upgrading them. I think I'll stick with what I've got. Thanks for the info though. I really appreciate it. Patrick

I'm not sure what kind of car they came out of. I have to go and look at them either today or tomorrow and see if indeed they will fit.

I'm not sure if I asked on this forum, but I know I did on the NASIOC. If I were to upgrade my fuel injectors from 180cc's to let's say, ummmmm....450cc's, would this cause a no idle condition? The reason that I'm asking is because I have the chance to buy 4 450cc injectors for $40. If anyone can shed some light on this subject, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You for your time. Patrick

Is this sensor that you speak of, the factory IAT(Intake Air Temperature) Sensor? If so, I'm in luck because I have a factory IAT off of a '99 GTP in my shed. But I too have a question. Wouldn't a mechanical water temperature sensor(ex: Sunpro) w/ temp. probe work? I realize that it wouldn't have instantaneous reasults, but it would give you an idea of what the temps are like in the piping and it threads in which would seal off any potential boost or vacuum leaks.

Mine just bolted on as well. Like Caleb was explaining, there is a rubber O-ring gasket that goes between the MAF and the factory air box that should be just fine to seal off any air that might make it in without being filtered first. If you don't have this gasket or your gasket is the victim of excessive heat(meaning that it is heat hardened to the point that it cannot be reused), then you might want to go to the parts store and buy this gasket maker made by Permatex(if I remember right). It is an elastomeric rubber compound that comes in a can with a tip attached(kinda like the cheese that comes in the can that can be applied to crackers, or direct oral injection as a party favor:lol: !). But anyway, this stuff(not the cheese) makes some of the best gaskets I have ever had the pleasure of using. Only downside is it costs like $12 a can, but I think it makes like 10-12 gaskets. As far as air filter fitment goes, if you are having doubts about a cone filter fitting, you might want to purchase a foam HKS mushroom style air filter instead. They tend to give a little more clearance for mounting and are still washable and reusable. And the good thing is you can buy one on Ebay for like $21.

Hey Kevin, I don't mean to threadjack you or anything, but I just wanted to update my FPR psi from what I posted earlier. I upped the fuel pressure to 42psi and my car pulled the hardest that it ever has before today. And the good part is, it is still idling just fine. Just thought I would update everyone, or at least everyone who is interested. I'm sorry for the interruption. Patrick

I have an RRFPR on my GL-10 that is made by Stillen. I adjusted my base fuel pressure to 38psi and my car runs just fine. It idles with no problem and runs great in the upper rpms. I'm not sure what the rate is on it, but it seems to add plenty of fuel on up top and I have noticed no increase in fuel usage while cruising, only when in boost. But that is right where it should be.

I know for a fact that Royal Purple works. My friend Eric used to own a '98 Grand Am GT(3.1L V6). Before he changed over to Royal Purple, he was using Castrol Syntec. We recorded his MPG with the Castrol and then when it was time to change the oil, we changed it over to Royal Purple, and proceeded with our little study. He got between 3-4MPG(not a huge gain, but a gain nonetheless) better w/ RP than he was w/CS. In my opinion, Royal Purple, although a little on the steep side, is worth the money. Patrick

By the way Kevin, keep up the good work. Your RX will feel great once you fix the fuel supply issue and crank up the boost a bit.

Caleb was telling me that you can build one for about $150(Please correct me if I'm wrong)

Hey phishy75, mine does the same thing. It happens when I am at part throttle and in boost or when I first go wide open throttle, it has a weird surging feeling. I think it has something to do with compressor surge or something, but I'm not sure.

Hey Myx, I have a manual boost controller installed as well. I have a line coming from the boost reference nipple(located either on the compressor snail or near the outlet of the compressor housing depending on which model VF7 you have), and goes to the inlet of the MBC. Then I have another line going from the outlet of the MBC to the wastegate actuator. I currently have mine adjusted to 10psi, but I'll probably re-adjust it to 11psi(highest boost that I've been able to run without hitting fuel cut) later on today. I hope this helps. If you need pics, shoot me an email and I can take a few and email them to you. Patrick

I'm all about the WRX hood scoop or maybe even an '04 STi hood scoop. But as far as Mopar goes, they can keep their scoops for inhaling birds, small animals and children:lol: . Shoot, I'd even be intersted in a hood that looked similar to a '99 Outback Sport hood setup or a hood scoop setup like the aftermarket WRX hoods, that have the small vent in the top front part of the hood, and the OEM WRX hood scoop in its normal location. That would be pimp!!!

Okay, something that I can contribute to!!! Here it goes: 1988 Subaru GL-10 Wagon; EA82T/ Fulltime 4WD w/MT+Diff lock Full 3" fenderwell intake Stainless Steel Mesh Air Filter SRP Adjustable Boost Controller Starion Intercooler(in TMIC configuration) Aftermarket Bypass Valve WRX Factory Hood Scoop Upgraded Intercooler piping(2" inlet/ 2-1/4" outlet w/thermal insulation wrapped) Accel Super Coil SPFI Distributor(if this even counts.....) NGK Iridium plugs Stillen Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator Powersteering Oil Cooler Rhinopac HD Clutch Custom Bellmouth Downpipe 2-1/4" Custom Exhaust Piping(from bellmouth part of DP back) CATCO High-flow Cat TopSpeed Pro1 Canister Muffler Autometer A/F gauge AC Autotechnic Boost gauge "New" ECU *Thanks Caleb;)!!! * That's pretty much it for right now. I have plans to upgrade the turbocharger and maybe upgrade to MegaSquirt for fuel management, but that probably won't be happening until I return from Okinawa.

BINGO!!! That is exactly what I was thinking. Or at least make the hood with the same mounting points as the WRX hood scoop. In that way, all you have to do is buy a used WRX hood scoop, tighten the littlenuts on the underside down, and call it a day. Most of the guys with EA82Ts want to integrate TMICs on them. This would just make them one step easier to make the modification. If you could do something like that in CF or FG, I'd definately be interested. Patrick

Well, I don't feel so bad then. I paid $200 for a custom turbo-back system which included the price of a brand new CATCO High-flow cat, to have them make me a bellmouth downpipe, and also to mig weld all the pipes and my canister muffler. Evidently, I got a steal of a deal!

I have a 3" fenderwell intake on my EA82T in my GL-10 Wagon. It doesn't look as good as Dave's, but hey it's functional. I have never had a problem with the intake trying to take in water either, but that may be a result of me leaving the plastic inner fender liner intact.

Hey that is one great looking exhaust system. Your downpipe looks good too. Wish mine looked that good. I still have to get part of my downpipe fixed. I had thought about painting my exhaust with high temp black too, but got lazy and never got around to it. But Kudos to your new exhaust!!!

I guess I'll just give it a shot and report what happens, good or bad.

Well while you're at it, you might also try and slightly change the exhaust entry angle on the passenger side part of the manifold so that it all flows towards the turbo. This will help spool up the turbo and should yield a couple extra ponies.

Heck yeah! If it was hot enough to make the bolts seize, then I think it is safe to stick a fork in it 'cause it's done! To add onto what Miles said, you could always get another motor from this one place called John's Foreign Engines out of Washington State(If I remember correctly). This pace constantly has ads on eBaymotors for EA82Ts for like $895 buy it now. As long as the heads are still good, you could send them off to the machine shop and get them ported or something along those lines. It's at least worth thinking about.

Well mine came from good ol' Missouri and ya know that they believe in road salt there. But I went through all the trouble of getting rid of the rust and patching the holes. Then painstakingly going through and undercoating the whole underside of the car.