4WDFrenzy

UPDATE: It is Fixed!!! The caliper problem is finally fixed thanks to GOD, my trusty hammer, and two of my friends, Jason and John. I gave the E-brake actuator arm(for lack of the proper term) a couple of love taps and much to my suprise, I was able to screw the piston back in. Oh yeah, and I had to buy a brake pad spreader from Autozone. But it worked. Now I have the confidence of having new brakes up front(haven't changed the rears yet), which should hopefully help shorten my stopping distance as the old pads were about as glazed as a box of Krispie Kreme doughnuts. We roughed up the surface of the rotors with some good old sandpaper, slapped the new pads in, bolted everything back together, and called it a day. Now I just have to finish putting the stupid quick boot on the cv axle and the thing is good to roll again.

I think that I like Craven's idea better.

I have indeed tried this. My wife used to have a 2000 Dodge Stratus(2.4L DOHC). After she got rid of it, I had an extra oil filter laying around so I decided to see how it stacked up to the filter on my Sube. It is about 1 inch longer than the stocker on the Sube and it threaded right onto the EA82T. So I tightened it down and called it good. Patrick

Ahhhhh, Turbocharged Brat!!!! Anyway, hope you have a lot of fun with your build. There are numerous people who are building up EA82T's(including myself). So let us know of your progress. It is always good to hear a fellow Subie owner putting their nose to the grindstone and doing something awesome. As far as the factory bypass valve goes, it won't stall the turbo, so don't worry yourself about it. The factory bypass valve is made to leak a little at certain rpms, which allows additional air a shortcut to get into the engine, instead of having to pass through an idling turbo(which actually causes a restriction of sorts), but it will not stall the turbocharger. The HKS BOV is nice, but you really need to invest the extra cash in the recirculation kit that is made for them. Unless you are going catless, it is a bad idea to vent to atmosphere. By doing this(venting instead of recirculating), you are causing the engine to run excessively rich between shifts, as the MAF has already metered the air and the ecu has added the fuel accordingly. Only in this case the air that would have normally reached the cylinders, is now being released out of the intake system which now leaves extra fuel with no air to mix with it. And if you are running a cat, it will kill it pretty darn quick. So if you plan on running a cat, get the recirculation kit.

I guess that I also should have mentioned that the crankshaft position sensor is located underneath the rotor, which has to be removed to gain access to the cover plate. Once the cover plate is removed, you will see a small metal wheel w/ slits in it. (crank trigger wheel if I remember right), that passes through a black plastic piece. The black plastic piece is what needs to be checked. It is held in by 3 screws. *Note* It will also have an electrical connector underneath the distributor that plugs into it and also has a cover plate that is held on by two screws. This will also have to be removed. I hope this helps. Patrick

Hi! First off I would like to say welcome to the board. Okay, now to your problem. Caleb said it right. If you don't have any of the 4 things he listed, it will not run. Sounds to me like your crankshaft position sensor has taken a turn for the worse. It is the only thing inside the distributor besides the shaft and the rotor. It is underneath the cover plate that is held down by two screws. If they go bad, it won't start at all, as it controls when the coil is supposed to fire. Have your husband take the distributor apart and check it out. *EDIT* Also, check and see what codes the ecu is throwing. This will give you a pretty good idea of what is going wrong.

The bellows boot is the ribbed rubber boot that is located on the inner part of the rack. I have one leaking too. My question is this, unless the rack and pinion is damaged severely, why doesn't he just replace the bellows boot? It's not like they aren't available at most autoparts stores. Maybe you should ask him that.

UPDATE: It seems that the drama will never end. I went to change the brakes last night and to my suprise, I couldn't get the piston in the driver side caliper to compress. I called in a little help from the previous owner. He and I tried at it for about 15mins to no avail. So we tried putting the old brake pads back in(they still had a little bit of meat on them; at least enough for another month of driving), since they were quite a bit thinner than their brand new counterparts. So we get them in and they won't even clear the rotor. By this time we are looking like this:confused: ,then this:banghead: , and finally this:mad:. So Spencer goes to work on them. After enlisting the help of a prybar, he finally gets the brake pads to clear the rotors and we reinstall the bolts on the caliper. We put the wheel back on and I go to check the E-brake and the handle is down, but the E-brake is engaged on the driver side caliper. By this time it is like 10:40pm and I started this little project at 8:12pm, and as you could imagine, I'm getting really ticked. I look at it and fiddle with it, and then finally decide to consult my manual. It doesn't help at all. So I ask, has anyone else had the emergency brake lock up on them, and if so how did you go about fixing it? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Patrick

Just imagine what the MAF adapter and filter + the TWE header and DP would do!!! Ahhh, what a combination!!

It is very do-able. I would suggest getting Hellas. They are freakin' bright and also match all the criteria that you listed. Besides, if you want them brighter, just buy 100watt H3 replacement bulbs and change them out. These can also be had for between $60-$70 for a set from Advance Autoparts, PepBoys,and also some Autozones and O'reilly Autoparts stores.

It will work on a EA82T. I have one on my GL-10 along with a full 3" fenderwell intake system that I kinda engineered myself out of a 88 Honda civic intake pipe. I would post pics, but sadly, I deleted them from my digital camera and also the hard drive on my computer. Maybe, I can take some more and post them later. Patrick

I have officially taken my car off the chopping block. It will live to play another day. After sitting down and cooling off, I have decided to keep my GL-10 after a little encouragement from Caleb and Spencer(the previous owner of my Sube). My confidence in this car has wavered, but is now rock solid. I am going to slowly gather parts to complete my little project over the next 4 years, as I will not be in the States to work on it. But I have major plans for this little turbocar upon my return, that should place it in a more deserving spot in the automotive heirarchy.

How did you bypass it ? Did you just plug the EGR tube off? And also did you CEL come on after you got rid of them?

I have an update for everyone. After last nights antics that were performed by the good ol' draggin' wagon, it seems today it decided to turn over a new leaf. I did my usual "go out, start the car and let it warm up" routine this morning, and to my suprise, there was no CEL on and the car started and idled as it used to. It drove just fine, although when I'd come to a stop, the idle dropped from 1000rpms to about 700rpms. I just don't understand it, nor do I think I ever will. This car is driving me nuts!!! I also noticed that my voltage from the alternator fluctuates(I have a handheld alternator and battery tester). Usually when the rpms go up, the voltage goes up accordingly but is then regulated at a safe output by the voltage regulator. Mine doesn't do this at all. I was discussing this earlier with a friend and he and I both think that the alternator is on its way out. This hypothesis was brought about after much collaboration, as he had had a similar problem with an old '87 Accord(Not that I should ever compare a Subaru to a Honda, no bias intended.). So what do you guys think?

I have an electric angle grinder w/ cut-off wheels that I used to make cut the hole out.

code 13: Starter switch in ON mode So the starter switch is stuck in the ON position.

It is throwing: Code 34: EGR Solenoid valve- solenoid switch continuously in ON or OFF position Code 35: Purge control solenoid valve- solenoid switch continuously in ON or OFF position Code 42: Idle switch-abnormal idle switch signal in relation to throttle sensor output Code 51: Neutral switch-continuously in ON position These are the codes that it was throwing tonight when I checked.

Doubt I'll part it out, but Thank You for suggesting it anyway. You are very welcome. I hope they weren't too dark or out of focus or whathaveyou.

Don't sweat it. When it was throwing the code for the MAF, it actually had something to do with the ignition timing. That is fixed, but it has a problemo with high idle now. I have tried a million things to figure it out and the car doesn't want to cooperate. And I have ben working on the stupid thing for the past 4 days and I'm just exhausted. Besides, I need to find some transportation that will be a little more reliable because in about a month I have a nice 19-23hr. trip to North Carolina. Oh, and Thank You again for the ecu.

It has come to my attention that my 88 GL-10 Wagon and I aren't seeing eye to eye anymore. First, my ecu gave up. So Caleb was nice enough to sell me his back-up ecu. Now the car runs ok, but is just becoming too bothersome for me. So, sadly:( I have decided to part ways with it . I'm looking at trying to get between $650-$700 for the whole car. It is in running condition, although the CEL is on. I do have the title for the car and it is free and clear. If anyone is interested, please let me know. Thank You all very much for your time. Sincerely, Patrick Z. *EDIT*: I will sell it with all performance mods still intact.

It will help a bit. K&Ns flow a whole lot more than the paper or cotton fiber or whatever the heck they want to call those el cheapo filters. You will notice improved throttle response with a K&N not to mention a little more power as the engine doesn't have to work as hard to pull in the same amount of air as the paper one.

Now this is purely hypothetical, but I took a look at a turbocharged Saab MAF in this junkyard right outside of the base, and the plugs on the MAFs(both the EA82Ts and the Saabs) and they are identical, with the exception of a wire that comes out of the bundle and goes to the slot that is empty on the Subaru's plug. Now if I'm thinking correctly, that wire has something to do with the fuel enrichment screw sending a signal to the ecu. I'm just wondering if there is a way to activate this function by running a wire from that slot to the empty slot on the plug to the ecu, and if so would it be of any real use?

What he said. Too bad it would cost an arm and a leg to import the engine and computer from one, plus get your pocketbook raped by U.S. Customs. And not to mention the headache of getting all the emissions hoses hooked up(not like I really have to worry about that where I live! ).

In all my past experiences with NGK's, I have found that NGK is pretty good about pregapping the plugs at the factory. But like MorganM and Dr. RX have said previously, it never hurts to check. Just in case the box that the plugs were bulk shipped in got dropped or thrown or whatever.

Son of a...............?!!! Now that really hacks me off!!! I have one of these on the good ol' Draggin' Wagon right now! Well, I know a car that'll be getting an oil +oil filter change wit da quickness!!!