4WDFrenzy

WAAAAZZZZZZZZZZZUUUUUUUUUUUPPPPPP!!!!! Welcome!!!! I hope you enjoy this site and all it has to offer.

Well, if your engine bay looks anything like a GL or GL-10(as I have), you could make your own fenderwell intake. I did. I used a short ram 3" diameter intake pipe off of a 88-91 Honda Civic(Ebay), by cutting it into 2 pieces between the bends. You will need to get 2 additional couplers($5 a pop at Autozone) and you will also need a MAF adapter($15 at Autozone). You will also need to purchase a reducer(from 3" to like 2"). I am currently using a thick rubber sewage pipe reducer that I bought from Lowe's($8) to go after the MAF to the turbocharger inlet. You might also have to have a local muffler shop bend you a piece of pipe to go from the MAF to the adapter that mounts on the turbo inlet. If you need an air filter, you can buy a cheap "cotton mesh(big whoop!)" air filter from Autozone for like $20. If you are looking for a good air filter, you might want to check into a K&N or S&B(same freakin' thing), Stainless Steel mesh cone filter(Ebay), or a Foam mushroom or cone style air filter(Ebay). The filters will cost different amounts depending on where you look.

I know the feeling!!! I have been thinking of trying to get the muffler shop that has been helping me out with my exhaust work to fab me a custom header with a larger "uppipe", if you can call it that. I want to at least get some good enjoyment out of this car before I go to the land of the 450hp daily driver aka. Okinawa.

Hi there and Welcome to the board!! Hope you enjoy it! Patrick

I just bookmarked that site. I think I'll definately be investing in some of that stuff.

Those wheels look very sweeet!!! Good job. You get 2 thumbs up from me!!! I wish I could find a set of those. I saw exactly 1 in a local junkyard yesterday. Too bad they don't have a whole set.

Welcome. Hope you enjoy the wealth of info here. Sorry to here about the wheel bearings and such.

I think I'll try to acquire the ones from Scorpion. But those wheels do look good on that Subaru though.

I own a GL-10 Wagon w/ EA82T, and I understand what you are going through with cold weather warm-ups. The only thing that I can think of to lower the idle is block of the throttle air bypass, which is located on the top of the thermostat housing. That is the only way I can foresee to remedy the idle. Only problem with doing this is, that it will take longer to warm up than it currently does. As for the oil, I use Kendall brand 10W30 in the winter, and Kendall 10W40 in the summer. I hope this helps.

I have no problems with the running lean with higher boost, but only to a certain extent. After installing my RRFPR, it helped out 10 fold. It runs much richer while in boost than it did with stock fuel pressure regulator. Right now the pressure is adjusted to the same as stock, but I plan on upping the fuel pressure to either 38 or 40psi, but only after I am able to get rid of the stupid fuel cut. And yes I am going to try to do it without the help of MS. I know most of you probably would't advise it, but I am going to try. Besides, I don't plan on running more than 14psi of boost anyway.

This is kinda funny because I was planning on posting something today about the same thing. I guess great minds think alike, eh?!! LOL Anyway, I messed with that screw last night for the short while that my MAF was working(need to replace it *ECU courtesy of Calebz Horsepower Industries:grin: * J/K LOL). After the check engine light decided to turn itself off(for approx. 15 mins), I took the car around the block and kinda got on it a little. It felt like it had a little more power than it used to, well before my old ecu crapped out. But right before I pulled into my parking space, the CEL came back on and the car started to run like crap and throw the code 23 again. So, in conclusion of my little scientific experiment, I have absolutly no idea if it does something or what have you. All I can say is make sure you know where the thing is adjusted, and try giving it a slight turn(forward or backward). It might help, or it might suck, but at least you know how to adjust it back to the right setting. Patrick

Do RX's have a different suspension than the others? I'm just asking because I have never had the luxury to see an RX in person. If it had the same setup as a GL-10, KYB makes both front and rear replacements(I saw them on good ol' eBaymotors). If I remember right, they were about $15-20 more than the average replacement strut(Gabriel) around here.

Here is some info directly from K&N's website under "Facts." *Nothing has been changed*:Facts You Should Know About Air Filters We believe the primary function of an air filter is to deliver both high airflow and superior dirt protection. We design our air filters to provide minimum restriction allowing high airflow into an engine. In the vast majority of cases increased airflow will increase engine performance measured by horsepower and throttle response (torque). The performance benefits of maximum airflow are clear, compelling and well documented. That is why so many professional racers are willing to run expensive vehicles with no air filter, as opposed to installing a disposable air filter. They are seeking the additional horsepower and throttle response needed to win the race. We design our air filters to provide superior filtration of the contaminants that can harm your engine while maximizing the airflow characteristics of the filter in question. The ability of an air filter to protect your engine is generally measured using a testing procedure developed by the Society of Automotive Engineers identified as the SAE J726 procedure. We subject a sample of our filter designs to this test procedure using Coarse Test Dust, which includes particles ranging in size from less than 5.5 microns to 176 microns. As a point of reference, a human hair is approximately 50 microns in diameter. The result of the above test procedure is a specific air filtration efficiency number. This efficiency number represents the percentage of test dust retained by the filter and thereby kept out of an engine. Our goal is to design our air filters to achieve maximum airflow while targeting overall filtration efficiency at 98%. <FONT face=Arial size=3>Because no two air filters are alike, the specific airflow and overall filtration efficiency will vary depending on the filter in question. However, you can rest assured that each air filter we sell, has been designed to achieve high air flow while providing superior filtration. Maybe this info will help. Personally, I run a stainless steel mesh cone filter, that incidentally filters the same as a K&N without the need for the oil. I have had absolutly no problems with either(K&N and the Stainless Steel) filter(s).

Unfortunately, you will probably have to go to an Autozone store to find it. The website doesn't list alot of the parts that are only available in the store. It beeeezzzzz that way sometimes!

Eh, I guess I'm just screwed then. Anyone have an extra EA82T MAF laying around that they would like to sell? PM or email me. Thank You. Patrick

Is it decent or does it suck more than a hoover?

I've heard of the emanage, but what is the unichip?

Hey Will. I just re-read your original post. You said that your stock boost is set at 6.5psi? Are all EA82Ts supposed to be set at 6.5psi stock? The reason I'm asking is that my stock boost is set at 8psi. I checked the car when I first started driving it(without adjustable boost controller). and it hit 8 psi in every gear according to my boost gauge. Is there something wrong with my wastegate actuator? Also, the engine that is in it isn't the original. It was swapped with one that came from Japan, but one would figure that they would all be close to the same specs.

Well, I think I will just continue to use my ignition setup the way it is. I don't see any use in changing it out in favor of DIS unless I actually purchase, construct, and install a Megasquirt piggyback system. I might, however try and wire in an SAFC or something to that effect and see if it helps or hurts the performance.

I was wondering if there are any other MAFs that can be wired in place of the stock MAF on an EA82T? If so, which one(s) and what kind of pro or cons can I expect? Any info would be very helpful, factual or hypothetical. Thank You all for your time. Patrick

Well, I have an RRFPR that is already installed. It works a heck of a lot better than the stock did. So that should be no issue. But I can't seem to get rid of the fuel cut. I'd feel okay just being able to run 12-13psi, 'cause as the saying goes," Every little bit helps!"

Back to what I forgot to say in my earlier post. I would be more than happy to take up the challenge if I could only get rid of this pesky fuel cut issue. Any time that I turn the boost above 11psi on my car, it hits fuel cut very badly and I have no idea how to get rid of it. I purchased an adjustable fuel cut defender, but I haven't figured out how it wires in yet. I mean, I understand what is needed to hook it up, I am just having difficulties locating the wires that I need to tap into on the car's harness. Otherwise, I'd be trying out 15psi instead of 11psi.

Just get one from autozone. I bought one that was made out of plastic for about $5. The only thing that I had to do was drill out the holes for the bolts from the MAF, but that was easily done.

Well, that blows my theory out of the water and kinda makes more sense too.

Are you sure it's not from compressor surge? I know some manual boost controllers, and even some electronic boost controllers will allow the boost to spike slightly before it settles to the target boost. That's the only thing that I can think of off the top of my head.