4WDFrenzy

Ha Ha.......... I wasn't really posting this for the $4500 (5EAT)transmission, unless you are really that dead bent on buying a new racing tranny. I was posting this info more for those who wanted Stall converters, sport type pressure solenoids, valve bodies, etc. If I had wanted to post this for people to make smart comments to, I would have changed the title to suit that subject and then posted it in the "OFF TOPIC" forum. I was simply trying to put more info in the hands of those who may be looking for it.

Okay, this will be short and sweet. I am just wondering if any of the motor mounts from a WRX or STi can be easily retrofitted to an EA82T engine? Please, no wise cracks about swapping to an EJ either. I have no interest in an EJ swap, but am looking more into the durability factor considering that EJ's produce quite a bit more power. Otherwise, I am going to attempt to custom make some mounts(which will be a big PITA). Anyone got an advice on this topic? Patrick

Good Day everyone! I have some exciting news for those who haven't found this site already. If you have an automatic tranny, want to up the performance potential of your tranny(I know that sounds weird) to match your engine mods, then the folks at IPT are the people that you need to talk to. Some of the items on their site is kinda pricey(what's not these days), but still affordable. Voila and enjoy!: http://www.importperformancetrans.com/subaruauto.shtml#main Patrick

No my friend, you are mistaken. While Yes, the EA82 and EA82T both have a cam in either head, it is still a single overhead cam. The designation is given because the engine has a single camshaft that operates both the intake and exhaust valves in the cylinder head. If it had a seperate intake and exhaust camshaft in both heads, THEN and only then would it be designated a dual overhead cam(DOHC) engine. Even if the engine in question were a V8 with a seperate intake and exhaust camshaft, it would still be called a DOHC. -Patrick

Heck, if lots of people think that having cats is a waste(of maybe an extra 5 peak hp), then they will certainly think that I flipped my lid since my car has one Catco cat and is going to be getting a second one as soon as I can get back Stateside. (Gee, 2 cats, what is this guy thinking, right?) I guess I'm just an old fashioned TREE HUGGER!...LOL But seriously, I remember reading an article in either Sport Compact Car or Turbo magazine about catalytic converters and their effect on horsepower. IIRC, your engine has to be making something in the ballpark of 500+ hp for deleting the cat to actually make a difference. So on my cars, if I actually need more flow, they still get a cat, just a high-flow cat.

I have to agree, the 2-1/4" pipe is probably far too big. I figured that the 2" would be adequate though. Then again, I have never built a header before either. I think that I got myself confused with the WRX header that I used to have. The runners from each exhaust port were 2" diameter. Considering that the EA82T has shared ports, I was figuring that my 2" calculation would've fit the bill. One thing to think about though is that the biggest problem with the stock manifold is that "Tee" where the passenger side exhaust bolts up. If the exhaust gasses were flowing more smoothly toward the turbocharger, one would think that 2" pipe would be able to be used for the whole header, including the uppipe. This is more than likely going to be the size that I use when I get my manifold made. Oh well, like discopotato03 said, it's your call.

Yeah, I agree with both GD and kingbobdole. I currently have a breather that both fresh air inlet PCV hoses from the heads hook to. I am going to do away with it and re-route it back into the piping before the turbocharger, but well after the MAF on my wagon along with an oil catch can. There really isn't a benefit to venting the crankcase fumes to the atmosphere. If it becomes that much of a problem, get a oil catch can and plumb it in. That is probably the best plan of action.

I don't think that I would go bigger than 2 to maybe 2-1/4" ID piping. I know that it sounds small, but it should be big enough to lose some of the restrictiveness of the factory manifold, but still small enough to keep the exhaust velocities at a decent level.

Now I just need to find the uncompressed lengths and everything will be good. Those numbers gave me a great platform to start from.

HOLY COW!!! Heck yeah that helps! You are awesome! Thanks a MILLION! :banana:

Real quick question, does your turbo have the adjustable(threaded) wategate actuator arm? If so, try shortening it. I had a similar problem when I made some repairs to my '95 GF8 WRX wagon(EJ20G) that I have. I reassembled everything and thought it was all good. It wasn't. As a matter of fact, I too thought that I had an exhaust leak because of the sound that it made when I tried to go into boost. I even went through the trouble of ordering a complete header and uppipe for it. After some looking around, I realized that I had not completely re-tightened the actauator arm to where it was supposed to be. I made my adjustments slowly(small increments) and progressively took the car for test drives until the turbo finally responded the way it was supposed to. Just a thought. -Patrick

Ahhh...cool! That sounds rather painless. Now if I can just get the seller of those coilovers to reply back about the shipping!

Any updates about the car? -Patrick

How much grinding are we talking about? And where? I am just trying to get this all sorted out so I know what I need to do when I get back.

Thanks for the measurements. The springs that I looked at down at that performance shop, wouldn't even come close to fitting. Looks like the coilovers really are the way to go. So yeah, I think ultimately that is what I will wind up doing. Now that I have seen what the rear strut looks like decompressed, I can see(by eyeing it) that the springs that I was thinking about at first, will not fit. Is that one of the rears off of your wagon?

Better yet, after doing some looking on eBay, I am wondering if any of the aftermarket WRX lowering springs will work(ex: Skunk 2, Espelir, Progress, etc.)? Basically I'm looking for something that will be stiffer, but won't be so stiff they rattle my teeth out of my head going over every bump. I am currently watching a set of OBX coilovers(for WRX) on eBay as I await the reply form the seller about the shipping. I am really considering going that route now because of the success that people have had with coilovers on the old gen wagons and such. I guess we'll see. Caleb, any word on those measurements?

Ahhh, it's okay. Like I said, I am just trying to find out if any of the springs(not struts and such) that are available here would fit our old subarus. Thanks for telling me about the eBay coilovers. If I can't find anything that will work, then I will just have to search out and buy a set.

So nobody knows, eh? Come on people, this isn't a competition. I am trying to do something to help all of us. Well, I am not one to be easily discouraged. Looks like it is time for a little trial and error then.

Dang it Caleb, can't you make anything easy for me? Well, I am looking at Wagon, 4WD, and preferably non-adjustable. I have some access(sort of) to some springs from a few different cars and am contemplating the possiblities of (what I hope to be) some successful retrofitting, not to mention maybe open a door to improved suspesion performance for those of us with old school Subes. I'll hit you up on IM later on.

I was wondering if anyone has the dimensions for the OEM springs(diameter & length) and also the diameter of the spring perches(on the strut) plus the strut mount for the older wagons? I need the info for both front and rear if anyone would be as so kind as to post the measurements. I have an idea brewing in my head(*sounds of squeeky gears turning) after a trip to one of the local performance shops. Thank You for any and all help. -Patrick

DANG!!!!! That thing is insane! You can definitely hear that turbo when it starts to wind down from being at speed. Just imagine how it will sound when the engine is under load. Man that thing is going to be a beast! -Patrick

LOL....Does it sound like a semi or a jet? Have you taken that bad boy for a drive yet? Let me know how that thing feels. Oh and don't forget to adjust the wastegate arm so that it doesn't overboost too much. I'm not sure what it was adjusted to when I got it. -Patrick

Hi and Welcome to the USMB! Probably the best ol' school Subaru forum on the net! Glad to have you here. As for the driveshaft, I agree with GD on this one. It is easier to replace the back half. When you pull the whole thing, you will lose gear oil from the tail shaft of the transmission. So if the rear half is the only part that is bad, I'd just replace that portion to avoid an oily mess. -Patrick

Well you know me, I 'm partial to the 7.7:1 block! Man, I can't wait to get back home to my wagon! * re-arranges "aces" in shirt sleeve* -Patrick

HEY! I'm glad that it got to you. I figured that Priority Mail was the way to go. I was just wondering how long that it would take to get to you since we can't get tracking numbers. I think that it is amazing to see the evolution of the turbochargers. That TD05 is going to be insane on your wagon. I just think that it is funny how close to the original(VF7) it looks, well sort of. But it sure won't run out of breath up top like one! -Patrick