Lrcorr

Well folks it's been a bit since I even looked at the Subi. Had downloaded a transmission code reader and ordered a OBDII to usb interface cable which actually came in a week or so back. Finally got out today and connected pc to read trans code. It was error 45 pressure switch which I found out was actually the intake manifold pressure switch (don't know why this was a transmission code). Let me throw in a little something else that was happening. I was also setting a check engine code for the throttle position sensor. I could look at it with my code reader and see it change with the throttle position so it seemed to be functioning ok. Anyway went to check connection to the pressure sensor which is located just under and to the right of the coil pack. Pulled and reseated the connector and was just rechecking some of my connections and low and behold the big ground cable connected to the intake manifold was only finger tight. Evidently I forgot to wrench it down. Tightened it up and cranked car up. No A/T Temp flashing, I had cleared the check engine so it was out, but I don't think it's coming back. Also I had thought the gas gauge had read a little less than half tank when I started working on the car but after starting car and having all of these issues noted it was showing almost empty. After starting up had almost half tank reading. All of this from a loose ground??? Really. Oh also test drive revealed no noticeable torque binding. My guess is that ground goes to control module. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks guys. I had made the same assumption re: the oil pump being good seeing as to how that is the heart of the transmission. As far as the over temp light, knowing that it flashing is an indication of a fault helps a lot too. The scan program I downloaded was free and the interface cable only $8.00 so I'm not really out anything by getting it so no big deal there. When I pulled the pan on the transmission it was in perfect shape and all was very clean in it. Checked all of the connections to the various solenoids, all were on good. I'm going to try and get it on a lift so I can check it closer. Working laying on your back under a jacked up car sucks. Getting ready to have me a building put up and am definitely going to get a 2 post lift. Going to do some car tinkering when I retire, maybe flip a few as in fix up and sell not literally flip over. These Subaru's seem fairly easy to work on once I learn all of their quirks. Might specialize on them.

@ Adventure Subaru, the light is flashing which I have learned indicates a fault set in the transmission on board diagnostics. Downloaded a free diagnostic tool and am currently waiting for pc to OBD2 connector interface cable. I did see that there were several complete transmissions for sale on ebay for around $575. Actually has a 10000 mile warranty. The write up states these transmissions come from the Japanese domestic market. I'm assuming this means they come from scrap yards in Japan and shipped to the US. Anybody had any experience with these?

Just to update my repair saga I drained the trans fluid and pulled the pan. Fluid did not seem burnt and pan was extremely clean with no particulates in it. The pan had been removed before as it was sealed with a pink colored form a gasket that was about impossible to get separated. But all looked good otherwise. I changed the filter also. I checked the tires and found I had 2 different manufacturers on the front but both correct size but inflation was not correct. Tires on rear were same brand but different from either front ones. One was also inflated incorrectly. Inflated tires to correct pressure. Thought for sure this was my torque bind issue. Took car for test drive, no torque bind at first but noted irratic shifting right off and in very short distance the A/T over temp light came on. Upon returning to park noticed torque bind back with a vengeance. I'm back to thinking I damaged the oil pump reinstalling the engine. I'm going to put a short piece of clear hose between cooling lines at radiator and see if there is flow. If not definitely pulling transmission. Yay me. Anybody had one of these rebuilt? What cost?

OK guys here's the good, the bad, and the ugly from todays checks. Jacked the car up and inspected all of drive train. Did notice where the heat shield between the exhaust and the drive shaft may have been a little close to the drive shaft right where a balance weight was attached and it appeared some contact may have been occurring there possibly explaining the clunking or clanging I heard when backing up. It was happening at a set frequency like that of the shaft rotating around and the weight hitting the shield. So there the noise may have been explained. That is the good. Also I put in the FWD fuse and when backing out it appeared to back smoothly. So that tells me I have some kind of torque binding going on. Not sure exactly what causes that so if anyone has a little more explanation on this I would appreciate it. This was the bad. Now for the ugly. I drove the car up and down the road several times and it seemed to be driving fine then the AT overtemp light came on and it seem to start shifting erratically. When I pulled back to the garage there was some smoke coming from down around the bell housing/ transfer case area. Smelled quite hot but when I pulled the dip stick to the trans the oil didn't feel that hot but this may not be an accurate indication. Kind of back to being concerned some type damage in trans. I'll keep plugging away. Any good info appreciated.

I did find the info stating to put a fuse in to enable FWD only. Again thanks.

I looked at the fuse box and the is a spot for the FWD fuse but nothing is in it. Do I install a fuse to make it FWD only?

Thanks for the info guys. I'm assuming the fwd fuse disables the rwd?? I'm thinking I may have crimped a wire also. I had the trans jacked up pretty far up into the tranny tunnel. Any I'm taking a day or two off from the Subi.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm assuming the fwd fuse disables the rwd?? I'm thinking I may have crimped a wire also. I had the trans jacked up pretty far up into the tranny tunnel. Any I'm taking a day or two off from the Subi.

Just a little more info. I did drive the car down the road a ways. It drove ok in a straight line and the trans shifted properly. Only when making slow turns and primarily when backing up and turning does it make the noise and act as though one or the other wheels is grabbing. I thought at first there was something jammed around my wheels but didn't know how that could be with the fact the car had been immobile. I would think that if I had damaged the pump installing the torque converter that there would be shifting and straight line driveability issues. Still investigating.

Hello folks I'm new to the site and hope to get some help from any experienced folks on here. I purchased a used 2002 Outback Automatic AWD a few months back. It ran well but was leaking oil pretty bad. I thought it appeared to be coming from around the oil filter as there were drops of oil coming off of it. I changed the oil and filter and figured I had hit the nail on the head as the filter that I removed was slightly different from the new one. Later it was noted oil was still leaking and further inspection revealed it appeared to be coming from rear of engine. Reading several blogs I saw that there is an access plate on the rear of the engine that was plastic on some of the vehicles and would deform and leak over time. I also noted antifreeze leaking form the head gasket. Decided to pull engine and check rear of engine for leak and also replace headgaskets. All went well with this though I had some issue getting engine to mate back up to transaxle. Found that torque converter was not lined up and seated into transmission properly. After all was reinstalled cranked car and she fired right up a ran smooth. Ran for a bit to check for any leaks. All ok there. Went to back out of the drive and noted clunking and jerking as I backed up like a wheel was locking up. In pulling the engine I did jack the transmission/transaxle up pretty high with a floor jack while jacking the engine up with my engine hoist to facilitate clearing the motor mount holes. Wondering if I either did some kind of damage to transaxle while trying to mate the engine with the torque converter not fully aligned and seated or if I may have broke one of the sensors supposedly mounted on the transaxle which controls the lock up and such of the transaxle. Any ideas folks?