DLGL8388

Done. Thank you.

Hello Friends, Can I just jettison the roll-back brake cable or do I have to do anything to make sure the brakes don't drag?

Yes sir. Thank you. You are right about the valve stem seals. Once they leak enough to where it's only starting on three cylinders for a minute, I have to do something because that just won't cut it in the winter around here. I might look into changing them on the old motor. But I think that the newer motor will outlast the rest of the car this time around. The rest of my spare parts are already on it. And as someone on here told me once, I'm operating off a dead platform. Sure like these cars though and where there's a will there's a way.

Hello. I have an '88 GL. Dash oil pressure gauge doesn't work. I just dropped a younger motor in it. New motor had good oil pressure when I pulled it out of another car about ten years ago. Motor was stored in garage and wrapped up. Should be fine. I even put new o-rings in the oil pump. But I would still like to "see" my oil pressure just once if I can but I don't want to buy a mechanical gauge since I'm on a low budget. My Polaris engineer neighbor says I should be able to figure it out with my multi-meter by reading either a voltage value or a resistance value at the sending unit and then translating that info into my oil pressure. Some kind of factory spec? I figure one of you folks would know what he's talking about. I started it today and seemed like the valve train or something was a little loud but it might just be in my head. I'm off-grid so I don't always have my computer on but will reply when I can. BTW old motor had 333,000 on it and still running strong but starting to smoke.

I recently found timing belt set for my EA82 at Rock Auto.

BTW I have a couple of EA 81's and two T71A 1st revision trannies laying around.

My EA82 just turned 332,000. Got between 29-32 mpg on a trip last month. Starting to smoke though. I'm pulling it in a couple of weeks to put in a younger motor that I have because I just don't trust it anymore for a longer trip. I'm torn because I'll always wonder how far it would have gone.

I've got 2 old e 81 motors that you could have.

I have an 83 DL of the same color that I would be willing to part out/give away. Same color as yours too. Cosmic Blue is what they called it. I liked it the best of the many old Subarus that I've owned. I like my 88 GL that I drive now but I'm not too big on electric windows and there's just something about carburators that made me proud to be using one to get around. The underneath on the 83 just started to rot away to the point where my seat was about ready to fall through the floor. I've also got another motor and trans (T 71 A 1st revision). Both motors are worn. Lots of extra suspension and steering parts too, I think. Would love to see any of it get used.

There's a junkyard in Idaho Falls , Idaho that has a large inventory of old Subarus. It's called Marler's.

I ended up getting the SKF10430 and it went in perfectly. Thanks for the help.

By the way, I was wrong with my cap measurements. Yours were right. I must have gone out there without my glasses. Went to NAPA yesterday with my u-joint. He found one slightly smaller with the clips on the inside like you describe. Looked like the one in the video that I watched slipped in there a little too easy as well. I'm wondering if I'll have to shim it. I don't think the guy in my video had a Subaru shirt on so I'll look for the video that you saw. I'll take my yoke with me next time I go to town in a couple of weeks. I'm still driving the car and am working on the one from my parts car so no big hurry. Vibration is barely noticeable so far.

Dave T were your snap rings, if they used them, outside of the caps or inside?

By using the plural "them" I meant the individual caps on one u-joint. Sorry mate. On YouTube there's a guy using snap rings that are on the inside of the ears of the shaft since there aren't any grooves inside the holes to fit the snap rings in.

Yes sir. Thank you. The cap diameter looks to be 27 1/2 - 28 mm. Rear shaft have larger. How was the non-staked replacement one secured? Snap rings or spot welded? A trusted mechanic friend told me I would have to spot weld them in and the odds of me getting it perfect so that it wouldn't vibrate were slim.

I am trying to replace the staked in u-joints on the FRONT shaft of my 88 GL. Anybody have a manufacturer and number so that I can order a couple? Thanks.

Voltage fluctuation could be a faulty regulator which is in the alternator. I've had a couple of them go bad. So if alternator belt is tight try replacing the alternator. Also check for bad ground wires to body and engine. You might have dirt in brakes. Try backing up then braking. Sometimes that gets it out.

I've been driving old Subaru's for 25 years. My first one was a '79 DL wagon that had been rear-ended and pushed into the car in front of it. It was ugly but the price was right at $300. With just a little hammer work to adjust the headlights I drove it for 8 years and was sold on Subarus for life. Since then I've had an '83 DL wagon that I bought for $1200 and drove for 10 years and now I'm driving an '88 GL for the last 3 years. I bought it and another T-boned one with low miles and lots of new parts for another $300 bill for both. It's still a work in progress.

Where can I get info on swapping in Imprezza knuckles to convert from 4 lug to 5 lug?

If I want to swap to 5 lug from 4 lug on my 88 GL using Imprezza knuckles what else do I need besides the knuckles? Thanks.