Pokie34

hmmm... just want to add a little more life by stopping the leaks. How much just for the seals?

Drove 25 miles on flat highway and when I stopped...oil smoke. I've replace front oil seals before on another subaru but after my last foray working on this car (I'm burnt out now) I'm thinking of having the seals done by a mechanic and paying the price. Does anyone have a ball-park figure on what this could cost?

As a follow-up... after much pain & suffering, I finally fixed this problem. Thanks for all who gave input. The hub was stripped out. I took one off my parts car and bought two new axles (probably didn't need to replace axles but heck, now they're new). Now it runs & drives!

Ok, any specific puller?

Thanks! Will I need any special tools? I thought I read in my manual that I would need like a puller or something. (I sound real smart don't I?)

I had the front-end grinding thing going on with my 90 Loyal 2wd wagon. My daughter was driving it and didn't let me know about it until it was too late. Now when you put it in drive, the axles turn but the wheels don't. Can anyone give me an idea as to what I will need to replace? I'm too cheap to hire a mech to do the work. Thanks in advance, Todd

First look for the obvious. In my case the wires that you would connect to view the codes were connected. This alone will cause the check engine light to come and even blink off & on occationally. Mine were connected because I didn't know what they were for and logic dictated that if you have wires that seem to connect together, then connect them. WRONG... They're only suppose to be connected if you are reading the codes. Reading the codes: (correct me if I'm wrong) For the 1990 Subaru Loyal - The two connectors are under the hood right by the brake resevoir/wiper motor. There you should find the Green 'test mode' connectors and the white (or black) connectors. To read the codes, connect the white ones and watch the ECU light. The ECU light: Look under your steering column, you will find a plastic cover that is held on with screws and plastic lock/screw whatchamajiggers. Un-screw the cover and pull it off. Shine your flashlight up inside, you will see a silver? box that is bolted to the underside of your dash. You will see that there is a hole in the end of the box (facing towards you). There will be a blinking light inside the hole. The light will blink your code then start over and blink it again. I think it may even blink several codes depending on if there is more than one component that has problems. Watch the blinks and you will note that there are two types of blinks. Blinks with a long pause between blinks and blinks with a short pause between blinks. Long blink = 10 short blink = 1. Add them up and that's your code. Three long blinks and three short blinks = 33. Good luck. Also, search this message board for key words pertaining to your problem. It may take a while but you should be able to find the info you're looking for. See also this page: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44

Thanks again torxxx, the vacuum hose was disconnected. I reconnected it and the heater controls worked.

Wow! Thanks for the speedy reply torxxx! I'll try it this morning (and I really need defrost this morning)!

Yeah, it's me again! 90 Subaru Loyal 2wd wagon - My heater selectors no longer seem to work. When I turn on the fan and push any button, only the front dash vents blow. Defrost or floor do not change the flow. This makes for great pain since I live in the mountains of the NW and my windows get fogged up on the inside real easy. Any suggestions to get my defroster working would be greatly appreciated.

Ok, I actually figured it out already...with much humiliation... So the code is: 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit And the check engine light was on because both connectors were connected..DOH!! Thanks,

i still can't figure out what to plug the wires into, nothing seems to be close enough to fit. Any suggestions? I have a pic posted, see my previous posts on this thread.

Oops...sorry, it's a 1990 Loyal 2wd wagon.

In keeping with my "Duh" posts... My check engine light comes on after the car is warmed up. Sometimes it blinks but most of the time it is just on steady. I've read all the posts I could find on the subject but none seem to apply. I anticipated that I should check the codes and ran smack dab into my ignorance of just how to go about pulling the codes. the ECU's LED is flashing seven times with a pause then seven more times (rather quick flashes). I can't figure out which connectors to plug in! The white one can go into two different places but the black one doesn't seem to have a match (where do i plug it in?). I have taken a picture of the scene and posted it on a web site. Click the link to view it. It's large 445k (sorry). http://www25.brinkster.com/pokie34/1990Loyal1.8_2WD.JPG

You were right on the money!! THANKS!! However, my 'Check Engine' is having issues. I'm going to post it as a new thread. I looked through the other 'check engine' light posts but didn't see one that applied.

Thanks, i'll check it when i get off work. I do recall that there was a wire that I hadn't tied back and it was frying on the manifold.. lol

Hi, My 1990 Loyal wagon 2WD no longer has oil pressure. This car has 111k miles on it and I really hope there's a simple explanation...(wire loose?). I looked at the book and it looks like quite a chore to replace an oil pump. When I turn on my car the Oil pressure gage doesn't budge. After the car is warmed up the 'Check Engine' light comes on. Any suggestions? I have been monkeying around with the car (if you read my other post you'll see that I recently had a problem where the car wouldn't start at all. I replaced the Distributer and all was well...until I realized a few days later that the oil pressure gage isn't registering any pressure and the check engine light comes on when the car warms up.).

The problem was a bad distributer. I replaced it and the car started. Thanks for the input. I found that it was the distributer when I checked for spark from the coil. There was spark. so I pulled a plug and checked for spark and there was no spark. So I pulled the distributer from my parts car and plopped it in and presto...spark!

Problem Solved!Turns out I was NOT getting spark at the spark plugs. Duh... I tested the Coil..got spark. Tested the plug..no spark. Replaced the distributer...SPARK! Thanks for the input, it was helpfull.

Thanks! I'll try it tonight.

Spark: I pulled a plug and had my daughter turn it over while I held it close to the bloc...there was spark (i didn't check all of them though) Gas: I can see gas spraying into the carb. Power: ? Not sure what to look for. Timing: I don't have a timing light but then that wouldn't help if I can't start it. Air: ? Not sure what to look for. Just before the car broke down it seemed to be missing, then it just died and i coasted to the side of the road. It would turn over but not start. I should also add that the day before, I checked the oil. I must of hit one of the plug wires on the distributer cap not realizing it. After it broke down I saw that one to the spark plug wires was off (explains the missing). The good news is that i have another subaru with a blown engine that I can salvage parts off of so if I have to "try replacing ..." then it won't be costly for me. If you have any advice, I would appreciate it.

I used my handy Chiltons book and with the covers off made sure everything lined up correctly. I'm pretty sure it's correct. In a previous Subaru I changed the belts and it actually started the first time! DOH! Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I have the same luck.

I was driving about 60mph and the care died. I coasted to the side and towed it home. I did notice that one of the spark plug wires was pulled off. I put it back on but I cannot start the car. It has Spark. It is getting fuel. the timing belts seem to be fine. It turns over but never begins to start. Any suggestions?