FatCatDoS

I've watched them all. Multiple times.

...the very next episode about Distributor timing.

Yeah! It's not done correctly in the video is what I'm gathering. I'm going to re time it tomorrow when it's not snowing hopefully. The videos are just a series of videos on YouTube to help rebuild a EA82. Very useful for a first timer like myself.

I did reset it to the 3 mark. Then rotated till it was at 0 on the timing light marks. This is how it's described on the Miles Fox videos on YouTube to set the distributor. Are you telling me I don't have to worry about the actual timing marks?The distributor had not been removed to my knowledge but this engine was pulled from someone's carport. So I was trying to act like the dizzy HAD been removed just in case. It looked to be pointing in between #1 & #3 on the cap. Not directly at 1. I'm going to try again today

ok. Will try again tomorrow \

1994 Subaru loyale 3AT 4WD. Replacing engine. Having a little problem with the distributor timing on my car. I just did the timing belt procedure; following the Miles Fox series of videos on youtube Started with both cams with the dot facing up. I installed the inner timing belt first Rotated the crank. Installed outer timing belt. Rotated the crank a full 360 degrees, resetting the first cam to its original position. Then I rotated till the flexplate was at the 0 degree mark.(Is that right for SPFI cars???) But now my rotor is not pointing where the #1 spark plug wire is on the cap. What did I do wrong?

Update: I got the solenoid working but it still appears I have no 4wd. Any idea what to check now?

I put my multimeter on ohms and touched the two prongs of the solenoid and it gave me a continuity beep. But when I hooked it back up to the car and didn't thread it in and pressed the 4wd button it did not engage.

I put my multimeter on ohms and touched the two prongs of the solenoid and it gave me a continuity beep. But when I hooked it back up to the car and didn't thread it in and pressed the 4wd button it did not engage.

My fuse panel only shows one fuse for the 4wd with an AT. I checked it. And changed it.

Ok. Found the solenoid. Any easy way to check that it is working? Have a multimeter handy.

Help! Hey guys. Got my 94 Loyale 3at 4wd. My 4wd light comes on but there is no audible clunk from the rear diff kicking in and I don't have rear wheel spin at all. I've been searching on USMB but all I see are fixes for the 5 spd. Anyone know where to start on the auto? I've read they are completely different as to how the 4wd engages.

http://imgur.com/y2RV0CJ That's what I'm working with. Looks flush with the upper part of the housing. But just doesn't seat into the bottom. Much like the cam seals I just did except those are supposed to sit flush as to mot block the oil passages.

It was a genuine Subaru seal. If that matters.

Resealing oil pump. I got the Mickey Mouse and the large oring on just fine but the shaft seal doesn't want to go all the way into the bottom of the seat. Is this normal or do I need to find a way to seat it in all the way? Looks like it seals around the shaft. But I'm afraid it's not in as far as it needs to be. Thanks for reading.

Yeah but look two posts up...I'm aware of the options for thread inserts. I already asked that question.

But that's good to know that the heli coils will hold if it comes to it.

I'm sorry. I meant the more expensive one that you find when you google search about this head bolt. I felt those with the solid inserts would be a better choice. I can source the more expensive time sert brand inserts so I'm wondering if I can use the heli coil set with those inserts. Also thank you guys for your help. I really do appreciate it.

Hey guys. Just got back from every machine shop and auto mechanic I could find in my area. Even called the guy that my dealership told me they send their engines to repair head bolt threads. He told me he didn't have the correct size(11x1.25) to repair it. Does anyone in this thread have the repair kit(retails around 480 bucks currently or if just buy one)? I would be willing to pay for shipping and whatnot. I'm just not sure what else to do. I can't find a block in western NC to save my life. Help!

Yeah I got it out. Most certainly stripped. But it's only one bolt. Anyone think I'd have luck finding someone with a kit on the forums that's already done it?

Hey guys. Got a 94 Loyale with a ea82. In the process of tearing it down. The head bolts are in rough shape. And I can't get one to come out. Feels like I'm stripping it out but I know it might just be crudded up because the other side was terrible looking. I've pb blasted it and it still feels stuck. Should I be on the lookout for a new head?

I do have an FSM. And I have B spec'ed rotors. I see the specs it calls for but I mean the actually rotor is is scored. It feels thinner where it goes into the oil pump housing. I'm rebuilding it because it sat forever and I haven't started it myself. Motor has over 200k and I'm resealing and making it right. Someone has already been in this pump. It didn't have the oring behind the rotors.

Hey guys. I have my oil pump off the car and disassembled. I plan on replacing the o rings, seal and Mickey Mouse gasket but I thought I'd check the rotors. The inner rotor looks to be scored where it fits in the housing. I can feel it with my thumb. Should I replace? And if so where can I find it? I can't locate the part #s.

Heck yeah. Planned on it. This 3at is working as it though. Can't seem to fix it if it ain't broke. On the hunt for a Flexplate and torque converter though!

Heck yeah. Planned on it. This 3at is working as it though. Can't seem to fix it if it ain't broke. On the hunt for a Flexplate and torque converter though!