Craigar

So I backed em off about 1/4 turn CCW and torqued them to 7 ft-lbs. (about 1/8 turn CW) and it felt slightly tighter than I think is optimal but they don't feel/act stripped so I'm going to go with it.

Thanks Everybody! Thank You GeneralDisorder for the "low down" - it does NOT appear to be stated in the online Subaru manual ( or the 1990 FSM that BEECHBM69 looked through) so I'll say this "Haynes Manual (890003 (681) " is flat out INCORRECT about this (IMHO) . I would say 95% of all DIY's that follow that Haynes manual torque spec here will strip those holes! Love their line "Every manual is based on a complete teardown and rebuild.."Here's the cover of the manual. Thanks again, maybe I didn't go too far already (those holes would be really fun to repair with the motor still in the car)

Good advice about longer bolt - I also ground off the tapered tip of a tap and went down into the bottom of the hole cause the correct length of longer bolt wouldn't go all the way (without forcing it) - and it cut the threads deeper in the bottom of the hole (I think..) here's the first time I backed it out, got a littl more on 2nd pass and bolt went in smooth & torqued properly

It's brand new ( 3/8" although from HF) and I have a pretty good sense of when a smaller bolt going into aluminum is too tight. Did a 7lb. bolt with it and it felt right (a pair of 10mm M6 holding on the cam seals). Have you torqued down the oil pump on an EA82 to this amount of torque? I think this Haynes manual has a bad typo (or braino) and tried to verify this torque setting in the online manual mentioned above - IT'S NOT In there? very weird! Do you have a manual beside a Haynes that has this info? I even dug through the vids on youtube (including milesfox) nothing definitive - or even anybody putting the pump back into the block Thanks.

that's what this "Haynes Manual 890003 (681) pg 2B-2 ©1998" says and I'm probably up to 10~11 and it feels tooo tight - should I go all the way? These are 10mm bolts with M6 thread going into the aluminum block? Here's the page out of a Haynes manual I'm going from also VERY LEARY that I couldn't find the torque specs for these bolts in either part 1 or 2 of the online 1986 Subaru Subaru EA-82 Service Manuals at http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/ all the engine specs are in 1st manual "Engine section 2-3" page 11-16 and oil pump details are in section 2-4 page 8 has torque specs and the ONLY THING that gets 13-15 foot pounds is the nut the holds on the sprocket - and I think it's a 12 or 13mm nut going onto a steel shaft - no reference to the oil pump housing bolts (except verbal saying assembly is reverse of dis-assembly)? I've also really searched through the topics & posts in this forum. Thanks!

Here's for EA82, from a "Haynes Manual 890003 (681) pg 2B-2 ©1998" - I think the "Oil pump mounting bolts" are WRONG, feels like they should be only 7 foot pounds max. See topic

Didn't get one marked NOK - but got one that looks like NOS from czny , otherwise the seal looks identical to the stock one - and everything looks right including the little angled "oil deflection ridges" going towards the lip, which I assume "pushes" oil back towards the motor? (I - was NOT impressed with O'riely's "National" generic with no "deflection ridges" . The crankshaft seal from czny looks just like the cam seals I got out the 20 year old "last gen" box of seals a reputable full time "Subaru only" mechanic I was considering for this job (Raffi Motors ), he's the one offered to do it all for $1000, and said that's more than the cars worth.. probably true - but if I get another 100k (or more without major problems) I'll be real happy! Here's how I seated the seal.. got it level and flush with the case - used the old seal as a spacer while I very slowly turned the ratchet with my other thumbnail in the gap (at the edge) between the pair of seals and double thick reader glasses watching it move. and I KNOW it's level!

Well I JUST DID THE SAME THING! I didn't realize I was reading the torque for a different bolt having to do with the cam.. Man - kinda like "measure twice cut once"... = in my case "read trice and maybe I'll really understand.." and my new HF click torque wrench was set at 13 and it really felt too tight to me as I was turning them (each one a 1/2 turn towards the end) and the bottom one one busted loose - of course the wrench never clicked - should be at 8~9lbs. well I'm GLAD I READ THIS TOPIC THREAD? cause I was thinking about how a M7 is just barely bigger than a M6 , so went back to Harbor Freight and looked at their deluxe $15 tap set and it has M7 - just about the thickness of a set of threads bigger than M6! - so I bought it - But Autozone DOES NOT have any M7 bolts! Neither does HF. SO I WAS thinking about tapping at and using M7, but I guess it looks like there is enough good thread left beyond the original bolt, so that should be a good way to go. Here's a stick that I stuck in the threaded hole (up to my thumbnail) - much longer than the bolt! Man talk about a "second chance.."

The square markings are were the backside of the sprocket butts against the crank, it's the "teeth" of the sprocket. The seal rides at least 3/16 inch further back (or more towards the top of this image). Here I slid the sprocket back on so it visually makes more sense. I think this groove is a max of .005 " at the deepest - which is towards the back (closest to top of image) right before the brownish "varnish" band. Now that I am seeing it in the day I realize it's probably not a problem . Thank You

The seal (as well as cam seals) appears to be original, (with "NOK" marking/label) and I don't know if this is a groove or maybe a stock ridge/shelf (about 1/8 inch away from radius) ? motor has 137K miles, wasn't leaking too severe and probably also leaking from cam seals and oil pump as well, resealing all of them

I finally am starting to feel "initiated.." to the "EA82 club", started just by getting the oil pump out.. got to fight with my first really stuck bottom timing cover bolt - actually just stuck in the plastic with it's slightly rusted sleeve = few good squirts of liquid wrench and wiggling back in forth with some constant outward pull (and some cussing, which didn't really help) took about 5 ~ 10 minutes - almost seemed forever with my carcass cocked sideways underneath the car. Sooo I left the top one in and weaseled the ear around the oil pump rather than completely take off that back section of TB cover , that blocks the oil pump from coming out - I'll probably have to take out the top one tomorrow (to remove that section of TB cover or have a terrible fight getting the pump to go back in.. OK now that I got the pump out, found out how important it's going to be to buy/borrow/beg or steal a extra big pair of chanellock pliers (after trying with the wrong tools - at least didn't nick it up worse than it is) to crack the 12mm nut holding the sprocket on - but it ain't gonna happen in the middle of the night, so I wrapped up the rotor side with cling wrap plastic and here's how I protected the open cavity & galley for now(cap off seasoning, parked in kitchen drawer, got SO lucky fits perfect, often wonder why I save crap like this) and the Mickey Mouse gasket is pretty flat, so I imagine all the rest of the seals are worn too. I notice in this "gasket kit" the Mickey Mouse, and the 3 big O rings are actually a real dark cobalt blue color, rather than black like all the rest (except the orange/red one) is that a special compound? Also I don't know what the other gaskets are for? I got a Haynes manual but it's "sketches" are pretty "sketchy" and strain my brain. Thanks in advance

Oh ya! I already had all those parts (i hope..) on hand and knew when the day came (belt snapped) I (or some good mechanic) would do everything that I could on the engine/cooling system in that area of the motor - and I'm planning on putting my timing belt covers back on, unless you talk me out of it (yea I know it saves time doing the job in the future. I'm located in the beach area of L.A. and we have very mild weather over all and I plan on only using it on the street, but my luck a rock or nail will get in that perfect position ;). And my lifters are starting to click a little AND I'm leaking a lot of oil all over the front end (add about 1/2 quart every 2~3 weeks) I may even go out in little while (after wind dies down) and pull the pump tonight + reseal + re-install - don't want to leave the oil galleys exposed any longer than I have to. Maybe put a piece of masking tape over the hole while it's out & I'm messing around

.. replace just the oil pump shaft seal (and mickey mouse, etc. if it all looks good) or are you suggesting replacing the entire oem original pump? I thought that oil pumps usually last for at least 4~500K miles? Thanks

Pulled off good passenger timing belt and it's a Gates T300 U.S.A. - but the snapped driver side belt has no markings at all - maybe they didn't EVER replace it - and if it was stock original I'd think it would have "Subaru" markings? All the old idler pulleys are fine and spin smooth, but going to replace anyways. OK here's my setup for back flush starting at the the heater core, after I opened house water spigot all the way & ran back over to car, let kink out of hose and let water run through while holding hose nipple tight against heater core's return pipe - and exiting through the block via water pump opening .. probably would be "best" to seperate core from block & do both separately, but seems like so little junk overall that it's unnecessary for this around town commuter car. Junk from first back flush of heater core via block drain hole.. Junk from SECOND back flush of heater core and block via block drain hole.. "Raisin" looking junk (probably orange/red hi temp silicone - pretty soft) from SECOND back flush of heater core and block via water pump opening.. backside of old water pump - more surface rust on impeller then when pulled yesterday, lots of humidity right now)

1st back flush of radiator with garden hose, moderate flow from garden hose 2nd flush, using full flow from garden hose no signs of "pellets" from Barr's stop leak - but some rusty looking little chunks. The water at full force had no noticable resistance going in, I just sealed it going in with my grip - seemed to come out of radiator as quick as going in

Thanks again DaveT. I probably wasn't clear about what I was trying to say " WHEN I WAS DRIVING it was SOMETIMES pissin like a race horse (well really JUST a miniature dachshund if I WAS stuck in slow traffic) towards the end, before the T belt broke. Never overheated. It seems "logical" to me I could "back flush" my radiator that IS pulled out OF THE CAR right now by stickin a garden hose in the top pipe hole and TURNING ON THE WATER FAUCET? BUT now that I understand the direction of flow in the radiator, to do a "back/reverse flush I would need to put the garden hose in the BOTTOM INLET/Pipe nipple? The only thing is the water isn't hot .. WHAT might be really slick is IF I FIRST flushed out my houses water heater (by a attach a garden hose to it's drain spigot and let it flush itself out), then afterwards let it heat up a tank of water and run that through the radiator via it's lower inlet... Good thing is the radiator probably only has 20K miles on it.

Thank You Dave,

Thanks everybody - and DaveT forgot to refresh this page - and now I see your good comment. Yes I got gaskets for the oil pump AND a complete new oil pump - but don't see any reason to use the new one unless I see damage/excessive wear when I pull and see the existing one - and of course I'd smooth sharp edges on pulley nicks. Here's a daylight view of where I'm at so far and a vid of play in the old passenger side belt passenger timing belt play 20181025_141925.mp4

Thanks Dave ! I drained the radiator & block and saw nothing except the slightly milky water, it was pissin like a race horse towards the end (well at least a dachshund if stuck in slow traffic) , I think the rip in the elbow pipe may have became worse (I probably should have left my heater on) so I was "flushin is I go.." I'd go through a gallon of water in 3 or 4 days / 200 miles. . It seems "logical" to me I could "back flush" my radiator that pulled out right now by stickin a garden hose in the top pipe hole ? I even cleaned up the top of the motor so I can see easier what I'm doing (and also lessen the chance of appearing to be a slob in almost every area of my life!!) Hey Dave, what ya think about my nicked up oil pump sprocket ? Thanks again! https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/167990-ea82-timing-belt-replacement-discovered-nicked-up-oil-pump-pulley/

another "feature" I like of the cast impeller one is it has this "locking tab, I ASSUME?" pressed/punched in through this slot to prevent the shaft from moving horizontally? Also I would imagined the cast impeller should "macerate" most solid debris (including (if any) undissolved Barr's stop leak pellets I used) ?

I've got a choice of TWO different pumps a can use - the one came from a member here, czny and he says it is used and works fine but looks like new to me - it has the cast impeller and the only markings are " N13Z " . I also bought a "brand new" one from Rockler that says "GMB Japan SU13 " with a stamped impeller. I can't easily decide which one use? Probably the new one ?

Looks like a something got mashed into, or wrapped around the oil pump timing belt sprocket and did a little job on it and probably caused the belt to snap quicker than usual, maybe a piece of wire cause all the other sprockets look fine?. Maybe they had replaced the oil pump with one that had a "wire tag" on the sprocket, pulled off the label and forgot to snip off the wire? Some of the nicks have slightly rough edges & I could probably smooth them with a file, or get a new pulley/oil pump sprocket (can't find at Rockler) or replace the oil pump with a new one (that I bought from czny on this forum, just in case..) that of course has a new sprocket. These nicks really aren't very deep? All the timing belt covers are good, except one area of a gasket had swollen and poofed out so it wasn't sealed in that area - I think it is the top of the middle cover? here's pic and a quick vid nicked oil pump sprocket 20181024_013358.mp4

maybe the water pump is also failing, if I spin the studs with my finger about half the time the end seal spins? water pump end seal spin 20181022.mp4

Thank You for the quick support! loosened flywheel nut using breaker bar & starter motor trick - quick flick on the ignition switch THUMP= done! I'm also digesting a Hayne's manual & they say when assembling to torque flywheel nut by taking off the starter motor- to get a screwdriver wedged in the flywheel teeth. I got a 3AT trannie & don't want to R & R the starter motor just to lock the flywheel AND it looks like a can easily get a wrench on a torque converter bolt or jam an ear with a screwdriver) through the timing mark window on the top of the bell housing (to lock the crank, while torquing flywheel nut ) - should that work? thanks

Got the AC out of the way, removed power steering, alternator and radiator. Then took off outside fronts of plastic timing chain covers - driver side has snapped AND 90 degree elbow rubber hose (going to pipe to heater) coming of water pump has a BIG SPLIT in it! I wouldn't be amazed if this isn't the original timing belts and the 90 degree elbow rubber hose. The broken timing belt has NO MARKINGS at all from what I can see of it so far, but the passenger belt looks like it may have 2 white alignment marks is that how the original belts are?