Craigar

Thanks Dave ! I drained the radiator & block and saw nothing except the slightly milky water, it was pissin like a race horse towards the end (well at least a dachshund if stuck in slow traffic) , I think the rip in the elbow pipe may have became worse (I probably should have left my heater on) so I was "flushin is I go.." I'd go through a gallon of water in 3 or 4 days / 200 miles. . It seems "logical" to me I could "back flush" my radiator that pulled out right now by stickin a garden hose in the top pipe hole ? I even cleaned up the top of the motor so I can see easier what I'm doing (and also lessen the chance of appearing to be a slob in almost every area of my life!!) Hey Dave, what ya think about my nicked up oil pump sprocket ? Thanks again! https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/167990-ea82-timing-belt-replacement-discovered-nicked-up-oil-pump-pulley/

another "feature" I like of the cast impeller one is it has this "locking tab, I ASSUME?" pressed/punched in through this slot to prevent the shaft from moving horizontally? Also I would imagined the cast impeller should "macerate" most solid debris (including (if any) undissolved Barr's stop leak pellets I used) ?

I've got a choice of TWO different pumps a can use - the one came from a member here, czny and he says it is used and works fine but looks like new to me - it has the cast impeller and the only markings are " N13Z " . I also bought a "brand new" one from Rockler that says "GMB Japan SU13 " with a stamped impeller. I can't easily decide which one use? Probably the new one ?

Looks like a something got mashed into, or wrapped around the oil pump timing belt sprocket and did a little job on it and probably caused the belt to snap quicker than usual, maybe a piece of wire cause all the other sprockets look fine?. Maybe they had replaced the oil pump with one that had a "wire tag" on the sprocket, pulled off the label and forgot to snip off the wire? Some of the nicks have slightly rough edges & I could probably smooth them with a file, or get a new pulley/oil pump sprocket (can't find at Rockler) or replace the oil pump with a new one (that I bought from czny on this forum, just in case..) that of course has a new sprocket. These nicks really aren't very deep? All the timing belt covers are good, except one area of a gasket had swollen and poofed out so it wasn't sealed in that area - I think it is the top of the middle cover? here's pic and a quick vid nicked oil pump sprocket 20181024_013358.mp4

maybe the water pump is also failing, if I spin the studs with my finger about half the time the end seal spins? water pump end seal spin 20181022.mp4

Thank You for the quick support! loosened flywheel nut using breaker bar & starter motor trick - quick flick on the ignition switch THUMP= done! I'm also digesting a Hayne's manual & they say when assembling to torque flywheel nut by taking off the starter motor- to get a screwdriver wedged in the flywheel teeth. I got a 3AT trannie & don't want to R & R the starter motor just to lock the flywheel AND it looks like a can easily get a wrench on a torque converter bolt or jam an ear with a screwdriver) through the timing mark window on the top of the bell housing (to lock the crank, while torquing flywheel nut ) - should that work? thanks

Got the AC out of the way, removed power steering, alternator and radiator. Then took off outside fronts of plastic timing chain covers - driver side has snapped AND 90 degree elbow rubber hose (going to pipe to heater) coming of water pump has a BIG SPLIT in it! I wouldn't be amazed if this isn't the original timing belts and the 90 degree elbow rubber hose. The broken timing belt has NO MARKINGS at all from what I can see of it so far, but the passenger belt looks like it may have 2 white alignment marks is that how the original belts are?

I don't think this nut is supposed to be here - and there are only 4-5 threads for the 1.5" long nut (so we can get a wrench on it). Maybe there was supposed to be just a lock washer - or nothing? Couldn't figure out why after loosening the pair of nuts that should let the idler pulley move (via it's mounting bracket ) it wouldn't budge?

Well the AC isn't working right now anyways.. Starting last month I noticed the water leak - and put in 1/2 bottle of Barr's "pelletized" stop leak, and it stopped leaking for about 3 weeks - it may just be hoses going to/from the water pump, here's some details from last month - and a list of parts I've already bought 93 Loyale wagon 3ATwith 135k,000 miles - may need water pump & timing belt & front seals - Is it worth it? Here's a link to a vid from underneath the car, when I loosen, then tighten the radiator cap.  https://youtu.be/V4Y0xitJtwk so I've added about 2~3 cups of water per day/trip and it hasn't overheated. I imagine all the leaking water caused an idler to cease and then a belt snapped..

I've read about unbolting AC pump & "swinging" it out of the way to help making water pump replacement easier. I'm thinking it would be even easier to remove the AC "radiator" that is in front of the coolant radiator (which I'd pull also) so I could work facing it straight on (my front grill is already removed), but I imagine I would have to crack open the lines and maybe not a big deal cause the AC at least needs a fresh charge( pretty low pressure when I press the "bleeder" valve under the black cap) ? Maybe it's easy enough to do with just the extra space gained by pulling the coolant radiator? I've got a bad water pump too and bought all the parts I need (I think?) to do the front gaskets & oil pump gasket - except the valve cover gaskets. Guess I should order them also (if it's easier to do at this time)? Thanks Everybody Craig

Just bought a NOS Paraut oil pump from czny AND he "threw in" a new water pump and what looks to be all the gaskets for the front of the motor. The day before it arrived I ordered this timing belt kit & water pump through Rock auto ITM ENGINE COMPONENTS ITM299 (Premium) Includes Seals AIRTEX AW9161 {#CP9161, WP683} (Standard Replacement) Includes Gasket Info Hub height approximately 4.320" +/- .020", supplied with lobed hub here's details about my car and good responses from other members 93 Loyale wagon 3ATwith 135k,000 miles - may need water pump & timing belt & front seals - Is it worth it? I read a year ago everything for this car is still available, except oil pumps. For the installation/mechanical work I called a shop on the list from North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club thats about 2 miles away, they said it would be $350 labor, unless the entire oil pump needs R & R then $400. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=982178 AQ Motorsports 16709 Gramercy Place. Torrance, CA 90501 (310) 539-9010 http://www.aqmotorsports.com Also one of the members offered his services - going to PM him - although he is 25~30 miles city miles away so it may be rough logistcly mostly because I have a night job close to my home, that's almost in the opposite direction. Thanks Craig "

That's a nice wagon IMHO! I've got a 93 Loyale with a 3AT granie tranie & I only get about 23 - wish I had a 5 speed. I got to replace my water pump & T belts & front engine seals & looking for a good cheap mechanic or someone with tools & a garage I can rent for a few of days in case I run into unexpected problems Thanks Craig

I'm so grateful you guys are here who been around the block a few times. I bought a 93 Loyale 3ATwith about 110K miles, no rust about a year and a half ago replaced a few parts on it like the starter and alternator and it has been a great car ‎, To get it to pass CA smog I had to seal up some hoses and little cracks and replace a Little $50 Hitachi relay . I also put nice new tires on it . I put 25,000 miles on it over the last year and a half = 135k now. The car drives like a dream fits my needs very well. No serious TOD, just slight sometimes when It's stone cold for about 1/2 minute. Of course it's only front wheel drive - which I like = less to go wrong & I live in L.A. But now I think I might have a leaking water pump, but maybe not? Looking from underneath it's coming from the water pump and I'm wondering if could be the hose this is going to it and if they're easy to get too because I can't see it easily ‎? But the hoses that we're going to the heater core they were pretty rotten, but the guy I bought it from has. paperwork for putting in a new radiator (2 years ago now) and those hoses , maybe they didn't replace the ones on the water pump ? It doesn't seem to leak much at all when I'm driving but when I stop then it leaks for about a half a minute leaks (about one drop per second) then it stops but if I take off the radiator cap then it'll start leaking about 4 drops a second so must be vacuum preventing water from leaking when a bit of vacuum forms . I tried to get an angle mirror with a light in the gap between the pulley & housing but can't see anything definitive. Here's a link to a vid from underneath the car, when I loosen, then tighten the cap. https://youtu.be/V4Y0xitJtwk The motor seems to be good runs smooth, idles smooth has plenty of power for only being 90 horse . I doubt if the timing belts ever been changed and it's leaking oil up front around the timing belt covers so a probably needs all that front oil seal stuff & timing belts done and I took it to a pro Mechanic with an established shop who works on them and has been working on them since they came out in the 80s a good mechanic and to do the whole deal he wants $1000 (which he says is more than the cars worth over the phone) , includes cam tower & oil pump seals, Timing chain tensioners, idler - he says he'll do everything that should be done when changing the timing belts - also assuming it's never had any service in that area . I'm 62 years old and I'm good at doing mechanical stuff but I really don't have a good space to do it - and it's getting hard for me to see especially when I go from light to dark or from dark to light . I read about guys saying it can be done in a few hours or maybe one or two days and I could probably do that out in front of my house on the street without too much flak from the neighbors . Maybe should look for someone on the board that's in L.A. that does this kinda work without being as expensive as a shop but I don't even how to do that kind of a search ? And like GeneralDisorder suggests might just be better to get something that has an EJ and I see stuff that kinda looks cheap but I feel it's safest to get a noninterference engine and I don't want an early EJ25 because of all I've heard about it's blown head gaskets. I want something's got like 150K miles or less auto trannie, wagon for $2000 or less. I'm pondering a 1999 Impreza L for $1475 with 110,000 original miles an original owner sounds good but it's an interference engine I imagine, probably a EJ22 ?

You got some Cajones! Wow, just looking at the wiring scrambled my brains!

Wow that is really beautiful! I love the way the gold wheels play off the reddish (7 parts red + 1 part yellow/gold to my eyes) paint! It would take some work (and a back hatch & right front fender in silver) to get my 93 Loyale lookin half that pretty!

So i picked up the new one, plugged it in and my CEL STILL CAME ON! and I felt fear that I had a bad power transistor in my ECU,,, then I hooked together both the test & clear codes wires and all 3 of the things clicked (a relay, another solenoid, and THE NEW SOLENOID) and THEY ALL MADE NOISE, so I felt there was still a chance.. unhooked the connectors, turn of the key turned on & started and the CEL TURNED OFF = Hooray! Do a few trips and it stayed off for the entire time. Got home and checked ohms of my old solenoid and it read 39.5 ohms, so I looked closely at it and saw there is a metal "cage" around it that has 90 degree folded tabs (that go through a bracket pulling (that's in a groove on the plastic end, with the mini air filter & pipe that goes to EGR valve)) that look like they could be bent straight & take it apart to see if I could see any thing obviously wrong, when I did the metal pipe section easily pulls out AND IT WAS DIRTY INSIDE the cylinder/chamber, I cleaned it out with a dry Q-tip and wiped down the plunger/piston. Probably got dirty and gunked up from the car backfiring at lower rpms, mostly cause of seriously old spark plugs (bet they were the originals - the gap had spread/erroded to .065 or more). Hooked it up to the electrical connector in car and it works - even shot a vid of the piston moving (before I put it back together) when hooked up in "test" mode, but I got to go to bed for now. Here's images that help show the details

well after 2 minutes today the CEL came BACK ON- Sooo I decided to try jumping it again straight from the battery and it DIDN'T click - I think it's "stuck" - but sure may be an open coil, and I didn't have an ohm meter handy - so I'm going to check it tomorrow... Well I could get the "universal" one from India on fleabay, but it will take 2 weeks to a month to arrive - and my CA tags expired in February, and now we got to pay something like $50 for a "processing fee" here even on a "fix it "ticket... and tommorows "April Fools day" and I am qualified A+ for being proverbially late SO I went to auto zone & they suggested "Peerless Auto" and they will have the original Hatachi tommorow for the same price as on on fleabay $49+tax, and then I don't have to worry about the smog guy looking at it funny either... I'm going to suspend it (after I pass smog) to keep the heat from the manifold from roast ing it (i surmise) to an early death - also this car came from Arizona and they are famous for roasting weather in general. I tried "suspending" it today (with a untwisted paper clip), but it didn't help.. and then tonight for about 20 minutes the CEL was off (almost as unreliable as me)

Man is it hard to see the trees through the forest.. Now I see members handle on the grey bars between the post - and also *duh* see there are many professed "subaru nutz" , or do we get elevated to these (and further..) heights on the USMB levels of rank? (maybe I should re-read the newbie info, and maybe more of it ) AHH YES - you nuts have MANY Posts!! back to the solenoid, an old saying is "heat is the bane of electronic components" and generally resistance increases with heat,, Sooo I've unscrewed mine and (temporarily, only for a year or two..) suspended it with a hanger made out of a paper clip (cause the intake manifold gets pretty hot pretty fast), now I'm gonna try to make a run to the smog shop... I'll be back (also I'm having trouble accepting/believing the it could be intermittently open - unless the heat is "spreading the gap" in the break in the coil.. ,, and seems contradictory that every time I hit it with jumpers (admittedly when it's cold) from the battery, it clicks -- probably would be a respectable test if I did it when it is hot also)

Well, tomorrow came and the CEL was off - for ONLY about 5 minutes - and on the way to the smog check station it came back on (and so did my electric radiator fan, first warm day we've had in a while, about 75 degrees) and stayed on until this evening when I started it after 2hrs parked, it was on BUT after I went into reverse it turned OFF (and my electric radiator fan stayed off cause it was only about 60 degrees outside) . Got home, CEL was back on (& O2 light still shows only 34 code=EGR solenoid) put in reverse gear and it went off... weird ,, Thank You "Subaru Nut" gonna go and track down the EGR solenoid out of India on Ebay, see that solves it - but I bet it's actually a WEAK OR BAD GROUND connection somewhere (over the rainbow..)?? Subaru Nut, is this the ebay one your suggesting? The female connector is aimed in the oposite direction, which may not matter cause I would still have to make some wiring to compensate for the non-existant "pig tail" wire that's on the original Hitachi solenoid? http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-VACUUM-SWITCH-VALVE-EGR-SOLENOID-VALVE-/302173573832?hash=item465af2d2c8:g:Kj8AAOSwT5tWJJrB&vxp=mtr or is a different universal vacuum solenoid? Thank you

new aftermarket 14 inch rims, that may be OK? Don't want to mod any thing (hopefully), although may have to elongate lug holes cause their spaced 137mm apart - is the offset "sticking out" too far? Just trying to get a little taller than stock cause of 3AT doing 55mph at 3250 rpm (aiming for 55mph at 3000) -- Thank You Everybody!! -- http://www.parts-unlimited.com/products/?productId=420459&partNumber=02300327 SS ALLOY WHEELS Part Number 0230-0327 Description: WHL SS212B 14X6 4/137 4+2 Brand: ITP Weight: 13.85 lbs. Retail Price: $94.95

Thank You Gloyale for the info about disconnecting both wires by the firewall - seems so "illogical" that the one with the white connector is a locking connector (and the green isn't) - and my Haynes manual had me taking apart a lot of unnecessary similar connecters next to the fuse box, under the left side of the steering column - and my "white connector" by the firewall was hooked up, which kept the CEL on all the time, (once I put a bulb in- cause someone had REMOVED it!) with both of them disconnected then I was able to get the CEL to stay off (and repeating code 08 = normal). I was having code 34 (EGR solenoid) and posted my fix here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162193-loyale-engine-codes-24-and-34-air-control-egr/?hl=%22egr+solenoid%22

I was getting code 34 on 94 Loyale SPFI 3AT also. Long story short - I ran "electronic cleaner" through EGR solenoid (suckin & blowin on the hose a bit..), cause it sounded wimpy jumping it straight off the battery, then 10 minutes later came back and it got stronger sounding. Put all the hoses back on cleaned the connector put it back together and at first still had CEL, than 10 minutes went off then 10 more back on, parked the car came back in a half hour, started it & CEL went off immediately & staying that way ( 3 more little 10 minute trips w 15 minute stops...) NOW I'M gonna pray it's working tomorrow so I can CA smog it. Thank You Gloyale for the info about disconnecting both wires by the firewall - seems so "illogical" that the one with the white connector is a locking connector (and the green isn't) - and my Haynes manual had me taking apart a lot of unnecessary similar connecters next to the fuse box, under the left side of the steering column - and my "white connector" by the firewall was hooked up, which kept the CEL on all the time, (once I put a bulb in- cause someone had REMOVED it!) I also made the hose from the solenoid to the valve tighter on the valve end by cutting a piece of insulation from a cable of similar size and slipped it over the the connecter tube then crammed the hose on to it - and the hose had no cracks,, just "bell mouthed" so I wasn't sure of a tight seal but here's somthing that seems strange to me, the O2 light in the ECU is still flashing all the time from what I can tell (8 shorts = code 08 = Model designation, CA automatic SPFI) and I have both the green and white connectors(shown above) disconnected?

Well got it back together & did it all with the starter STILL INSTALLED IN THE CAR (at was pretty rough getting it in & out when I installed this rebuild, a lot is I don't have a shop/lift,etc.),, ( I finished it back on the 16th, but almost forgot to do a post, thanks) but I think they left the gasket out that's between the plate and the starter's case - and our local re-builder here wanted $15 FOR JUST THIS GASKET from a pretty common Japanese Nippon Denso starter (it was used but looked OK - but I thought he was asking way too much), so I went the local ACE hardware store - and they lent me a leather punch & sold me a neoprene gasket ($2) that I could cut out into what I needed to do the job, and it fit good and is working fine (for now

Of course it's a "rebuild" by Duralast done in Mexico. It's the "newer" type Nippon Denso (I guess?) compared to my original one, which I would guess is totally original to the car. It has a rubber/neoprene gasket under it's cap/plate.. so I got lucky and found my solenoid piston & spring, cap plate and one screw - and this "newer" design uses smaller screws (with star heads) compared to the Phillips headed ones on the old one - I wonder if this new one needs a rubber gasket (or any gasket) and if it's real important, or if I can make one out of cork? I don't have any sheet neoprene or fiber composition on hand right now, but if necessary I'll do it. I'm not in driving in severe weather or mud, etc. Live in L.A. Here's an identical rebuild I went to look at (to see if the single screw I found was the right one cause it didn't go in the hole smooth, probably cause it's half stripped Thank You Craig

Of course it's a "rebuild" by Duralast done in Mexico. It's the "newer" type Nippon Denso (I guess?) compared to my original one, which I would guess is totally original to the car- which has a rubber/neoprene gasket under it's cap/plate.. so I got lucky and found my solenoid piston & spring, cap plate and one screw - and this "newer" design uses smaller screws (with star heads) compared to the Phillips headed ones on the old one - I wonder if this new one needs a rubber gasket (or any gasket) and if it's real important, or if I can make one out of cork? I don't have any sheet neoprene or fiber composition on hand right now, but if necessary I'll do it. I'm not in driving in severe weather or mud, etc. Live in L.A. Thank You Craig