Craigar

Wow, ferp420 sounds like a nice motor! I would be very grateful to see some images of these manifold mods, hopefully "before and after" . I realy like the lower rpm torque this motor makes - also coupled to the (at least 500 pounds less than a comparable Legacy) lighter Loyale it feels really nice to me. Thanks for the pretty simple "doable" ideas

Interesting post and I think the EA82 is a good engine to work and play with, I don't agree (yet?) with Uberoos post about the EJ22 having 2X the power - it looks to me like he is adding the dyno power of 2 different rpms then divided by 2 (.5) for the EJ to get an average - but he divided the EA by 2 also! - and it has no other hp* rpm to average with? Almost implies the EA82 has no horsepower at 1000 rpm -- and I really doubt the EJ22 is producing 110hp at 1000 rpm - for starters seems it would hammer the bearings.. I would really like to see the dyno graphs, but the links are dead? I see it being more like 1.5X,which makes sense cause it has a 12% longer stroke and 11% larger bore, with total displacement of 22% larger - and has 4 valves per cylinder, moly pistons that are 100 grams lighter and higher compression. So it makes since for EJ22 to have more horsepower AT HIGHER RPM beyond the bore and stroke increase because it's a much better aspirated engine with 4 valves per cylinder etc. - but IMHO up to 4500 rpm the EA82 does quite well in it's own right. Anyways here's an image of the 2 motors side by side from Wikipedia - showing the EJ22 can produce 50% more HP/torgue IN THE HIGHER RPM range. But "tourque-wise" the EJ22 produces only 37% more torque at 4800rpm, compared to the EA82 at 3200 rpm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EA_engine https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine

I've been wanting about 6 to 8% higher gear ratio on my 93 Loyale 2wd 3AT - it does about 52 mph at 3000 rpm on flatland according to the speedo and tach,, right now it has half worn 175/70 soooo.... I've driven myself half nutz trying to decide tween finding 14" rims or taller 13's finally found these for $56 + shipping -- of course I bet the whitewalls will turn brown fast, maybe turn them around, or somehow paint the white wall GOLD?? - or better yet silver to match my paint (think I'm going nuts Milestar MS75 Tire P175/80R13 http://www.tiresall.com/Product_1392.html#

well with it's 3AT, on the freeway it does about 52 mph at 3000 rpm on flatland according to the speedo and tach,, right now it has half worn 175/70 .... and it sounds kind of "wound up high" to me but doesn't seem to mind? So since I carry very little load, just me @ 175lbs and maybe 100lbs of other stuff,, I'm considering THESE tires - would do 55mph at 3000 - but of course i'd have less acceleration/torque to the road. $56 + shipping Milestar MS75 Tire P175/80R13 http://www.tiresall.com/Product_1392.html# their 6.1% larger diameter than stock 175/70 https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=175-70r13-175-80r13

I've been wanting about 6 to 8% higher gear ratio on my 93 Loyale 2wd 3AT - it does about 52 mph at 3000 rpm on flatland according to the speedo and tach,, right now it has half worn 175/70 soooo.... I've driven myself half nutz trying to decide tween finding 14" rims or taller 13's finally found these for $56 + shipping Milestar MS75 Tire P175/80R13http://www.tiresall.com/Product_1392.html# but I really like the look of those pug rims, are they for sale? thanks

found this in the Older Subaru Archive: 1969 on, Loyale, GL, GL-10, DL, Brat, XT, Justy, Turbohttp://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html Loyale 1990-94 WEIGHT (lbs)- curb weight: AWD Wagon - 2,635, AWD sedan - manual 2,490, auto 2,510 Front wheel drive: Wagon manual 2,490, auto 2,510, Sedan - manual 2,355, auto 2,395 makes me think maybe the GVWR includes a full tank of gas & all fluids, etc? or maybe the info here is wrong?

My 93 Loyale wagon 2wd 3AT, power windows says on the door tag: 3670 GVWR, 900 max load = 2770 curb weight. Guess that 3AT tranny must be REALLY BE HEAVY, cause there is no drive shaft or rear differential or real axles but "trailer arms/3rd member in VW talk, I thought it would weigh less than a 5 speed with 4WD? here's a few of views of it up on a rack showing the rear suspension, etc. Hard to imagine it weighs 400 pounds more that the 84 2wd 5speed EA81 no options wagon = 1048 kg. net = 2305 pounds in this thread? here's a little more zoomed in on the trannie area, it looks pretty heavy I guess

thanks MR_Loyale , should have thought of that higher rpm = more pressure in coolant system. It also seems to move the bubbles more I heard in the heater core. I just drained the Prestone after driving, let it coll off, did a clear water flush, drained and let cool off and filled with 50/50 anti freeze. I don't think I had a head gasket problem at all BUT it does still seems to lope a bit under heavy throttle at lower rpm, like under 2000 especially when cold, and feels a litlle underpowered in that range is that normal? My memory of a good running VW type 3 seemed to have more power in that range,,, I guess I shouldn't push it hard at those lower rpm anyways considering big jugs & short stroke. I left my origainal owners manual at my friends shop, so wondering how much liquid/coolant it needs so far almost a gallon? also still seems kind of like a low idle to me, but it's never crapped out - you can hear the idle in this video, does that sound right to you Loyale Gurus? Of course it gets a little lower and rougher in gear ( 3AT ) - and right now the alternator belt sounds a lot like crickett cause of me getting fluid on it Thank You everybody

Well, now I feel kind stupid cause in the right light (for my eyes, can't see well into a darkened area - and takes about 20 minutes nowadays for me to adjust well to night, I'm 60) I could see some "white wash" looking "paint?" on the bottom of the plug wires going across the block, so got into good light at the local AM/PM gas station in the very early morning (3.30am) and I could see more if this "white wash" looking down under the spare towards the firewall on the tranny... pulled out the spare and found the whitewash more concentrated under where one of the rubber heater pipes connect to the metal pipe coming off the top of the motor area.. unscrewed the hose clamp & pulled it off and very close to the clamp on the bottom was a nice little TEAR! about 3/16 inch long - and then I could see this white wash all over the left/back side of the distributor cap, etc. ... and the plug wires were laying on the block, I cleaned it all up and snapped the wires back into their holders on the back side of the air snorkel and moved the heater pipe up 1/4 inch more onto the pipe stuck some permatex in the slightly spread open crack, let it dry for about 15 minutes while cleaning up this little mess then wrapped a turn & a half of electrical tape and tightened the hose clamp over it - just for the next day or so, tell I get a new hose cause it looks pretty special with the dogleg where it probably connects to the heater core,,,, well it ran REAL GOOD with solid power between 1000~2000 pm,, rode it for 20 minutes can't hear any bubbles no change in water level, etc.. Just like the other guy you helped out when you said "did you check all 7 hoses?" it really rattled my brain - 7 hoses, and of course they had changed the front big ones going to the rad. Now the reason I think I saw "whitewash" is cause day before yesterday - after a lot of research I did Prestones new " NON CLOGGING high tech triple head gasket treatment" which is a way different then any other formula to date. http://prestone.com/enca/node/1469 The engine ran the same as before, and I drove 30 miles, maybe with a little less loss of coolant - but was now able to relativly easily see the "whitewash" from where it had dried, I assume? (unless it had been there all along.) this sealer looks pretty "suspended" as it swirls around in the coolant, heres a vid when I poured it in, then an hour later.. they say let it coexist in the cooling system for a week, but I may drain it out tomorrow or the day after thank You

Thank You Mr. Subaru Nut! Here's 2 edits to the post above that may "shed more light". seems to me like it could be leaking intake manifold gaskets - which leads me to want to try some "Holts RADsealer" which subaru OM had as part of their maintenance starting in 2000 for EJ engines.. here's a thread about it (where you had responded to to necessity of replacing ALL 7 of the coolant hoses) - and these guys are saying very rare for EA82 HG failure? subaru cooling system conditioner Do you think this might be "just" the intake gaskets?

I only see pretty slow/small stream of air bubbles when the coolant reservoir tank has had less then an inch air, and then if I take of the rad cap it will usually have a few inches of air, but can see fluid looking in about 2 inches down, so I add about a cup or 2 in the radiator and a cup or 2 in the reservoir tank then it all seems fine and no bubbles in the reservoir when running either warmed up or cold. Put about 80 lbs. of air in each cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke & look into rad, no change in level or bubbles. When the bubbles/fluid loss has happened (after about 30 miles of driving) it seems to run rougher at lower rpm under load/heavy throttle, and will feel like a cylinder is weak/out of balance - but smooths out in about 30 seconds. No smoke or water at the tail pipe, no oil in coolant or coolant in the oil, no fluctuation on the temp gauge - stays down pretty low about 1/4the distance from cold to hot. The tailpipe is black which made me think it was rich, but all the plugs were light grey with a slight brownish tint (and they were gaped at about.065 - re-gapped them back to about .038) 119K on the motor - and the previous owner did changed out the rad, belts and some other things - the receipt looks like it was done at a good shop. Oh ya the image in the previous post was before I sealed up the rest of the cracks on that nipple - and now it really pulls good at lower rpm - but I try to be easy on it under 1500rpm cause of my experience with Volkswagens hammering rod bearings at low rpm 30 years ago. Got to mention again I really love the way this car drives, handles, responds & feels - I think maybe I'm going nutz cause cause it definitely ain't "keeping up with the Jonses" (and probably would seem worse to "normal people" than my other car, a parked 95 Eldo with failing head gasket(s) and no 4th/OD gear!) and if I can keep it running at least as good as it is I'll probably keep drivin it tell I'm too old to see - although I wish it had a 4th gear too! I'm thinking of running 175/80 x 13 tires on it, instead of the stock 175/70 - it does 52mph on flatland @ 3000 rpm - and I'm in the "South bay" area of L.A. and don't do any serious hills - probably once every few months and I'd baby it or go into 2nd gear and go pretty slow. Not sure how to link up a youtube vid here, but I'll try? Here's how it sounds from a cold start, did the video to let TheEmpireStrikesBack hear mine do the low freq rumble when cold http://www.youtube.com/embed/TOGm40Cj1UA here it is about 20 seconds later doing 2 left hand donuts when barely warm http://www.youtube.com/embed/LBS8HEuN7QA Thank You!

I just got my 1st "93 Loyale Wagon 3AT" a week ago and overall I LOVE IT!!! - except for problems below, and that it was running crappy under load at lower rpm (under 2500) if I was heavy on the throttle, Once I got that straightened out then in park I could hear and feel this very low frequency rumble ( i would gues it's 1/8th of the idle speed , or about 90 cycles per second) - that cycles in intensity about every second (or 1.5 seconds) and lessens as the engine warms up - idles at 1500 when cold for about 45 seconds. Can't feel or hear it at all when in gear/driving . Somwhere on this forum I read a proper running EA82 sounds a lot like a "cross sewing machine and a Russian agricultural machine" I have to agree, especially in park at lower rpm! MAY POST A VIDEO LATER if it picks up the sound. Pushing about 1/2 throttle starting from 100 to about 1500 it sounds like a forklift motor, or maybe an inboard Evinrude boat motor! Above 2000 rpm IMHO, it sounds and feels better than a good running Porsche 357! , (although comparitivly under asperated at higher rpm). Here's a youtube video of how it sounds from a cold start, <iframe id="ytplayer" type="text/html" width="640" height="390" src="http://youtube.com/watch?v=TOGm40Cj1UA?version=3" frameborder="0"/></iframe> Here's how I helped the "running crappy at lower rpm (under 2500) if I was heavy on the throttle" problem. Found a few obvious things not on par - including 2 cracks on the top of the snorkel between the air filter & throttle body - and a goood one where the 3/4 inch hose connects between the air snorkel and a part down by the base of the throttle body. put medium bead of black permatex on all of those - helped a bit. Checked plugs, they were gapped at.065 !!! - regapped to about .040 - much better, then found out green "ignition timing setup" wires were still connected - unhooked them = much better but... even way more scary is it's getting some air in the coolant that is probably bad intake manifold gaskets, etc (don't thing it's head gasket ??) and can hear the bubbles in the system especially if doing a long left turn (or going around in left handed circles) - let the games begin