milty60
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About milty60
- Birthday 10/17/1960
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Danbury CT
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Occupation
IT
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Referral
searching Google
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Biography
DIY for all my engine powered equipment and anything technology
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Vehicles
2009 Suby Forester manual 240K
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Appreciate all the info - may spend money to get a suby center diff (AWD is best in Northeast but part here is $500) also like the idea of making it a FWD - do you guys agree that's doable? No harm to the tranny? Son is thinking about getting a replacement car - this ones got 250K on it - not sure how long its going to last. May dump in $500 now and something else goes in a number of months. Thanks, Milty
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I should replace the entire center differential - the viscous coupler is a component in the diff - when that component is bad it causes the torque bind? Found a youtube video - looks doable - take some time been working on cars since I was 16 - almost 60 - my son will help. Here's the video. How much time do I have? - its been doing this odd behavior for a few months - no other drive-ability issues. Thanks, Milty
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Power steering fluid is normal. No check engine light. Most recent behavior after a half an hour of car driving (does not occur when car is cold) when I back out of a parking spot, I don't hear any noise but it feels like I have a bubble in the tire every six inches around the circumference. This happens each time I back out of a parking spot with steering wheel turned right or left - never a noise or sensation when backing out straight - only on moderate to tight right or left turn. Advice? Thanks, Milty
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I replaced the Relay a while back - idle is stepped up a bit. I still have codes to investigate although the car does not seem to show any ill effect due to codes - at some point I will get hit with an emissions check from DMV and will have to get that light off and/or issues fixed. I still have these codes: 2 current faults - P0204 powertrain injector circuit - cylinder 4, and P3100 powertrain, also 2 pending faults - P0104 powertrain mass or volume air flow circuit intermittent - P2000 Powertrain - NOx trap efficiency below threshold bank 1. I cleaned the MAF with designate cleaner - still getting code. Any thoughts on codes? I wonder if I have a short somewhere causing one or all of those codes? Thanks, Milty
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Replaced the starter motor on my son’s car over the weekend – its never been replaced looks like original Suby starter. Came out fairly easy – top and bottom bolt needed some muscle to break free but not bad. Top bolt has 2 washers and a lock washer and a bracket that the ground cable attaches to. I finger tightened the top and bottom bolt. When I used the ratchet on the top bolt as it became tight I could hear and feel … I’ll call it a skip and a click – it would not tighten beyond this point … ground bracket still loose – I said to my son oh S*it now it needs to be drilled out and heli-coiled in a very tough spot to do this – probably need to tow to a machine shop. I took the bolt out and at the very bottom could see for just about a quarter-inch – metal threads surrounding the bolt – bolt undamaged - unscrewed thread from bolt – assume this is the internal threads in the mount that were broken free – somehow? So, I said it seems like a lot of washers on this mounting bolt – I removed the thickest one and said hopefully the bolt will go in a bit deeper and catch some good thread – thank the Subaru Gods – it did – tightened up nice – I’ve rechecked it a few days after long runs with the car to get it up to temp so motor etc can shrink/expand – no issues. I can’t believe I would have stripped or cross-threaded the hole – was it just time to for the bolt hole to loose threads? The manual tranny was replaced 6 months back by neighborhood DIYer I think this bolt is one of the bolts that mounts tranny to the engine but I need to look closer – did the DIT guys over tighten the bolt then? Thoughts? Thanks, Milty 09 Forester manual 250K
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Showed Subaru parts guy multiple wiring diagrams and pictures of fuse box – finally got correct relay – swapped it out – cleared codes but codes came back a few hours later – haven’t checked with odbc tool but assume same codes – will check this weekend. I don’t detect any issues with the car at this time – idle is steady – sits around 650 – no stalls – hesitation – power loss. Trying to decide my next steps for those codes? Thanks, Milty
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Pulled relay that was marked in picture - has a number on it 156?8-3818 - below it a - V - I must of scratched the one number off trying to get the relay out it was tough to remove - its mounted flush in fusebox - couple of clips on both sides - I called Subaru parts - guy said that number is only a casting number - he tried to locate it on his diagrams - but could not find a "Main Relay" so I plan on pulling it over the weekend and taking it in - he said he should be able to match it up then - can't believe how tough this is to identify - not feeling super confident he will identify it - I see two other relays in that fuse box that are identical to this one. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ I'm going to pick up the cooling system conditioner and give it a try for temp fix to my leak problem. Thanks, Milty
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I replaced hose throttle body to heater hose tubing - no leak at hose - but a very slow drip is coming somewhere at T connection on heather tubing that travels over intake manifold to behind timing belt area. Can I use a stop leak to temporarily fix. Looks like a nightmare to replace tubing. Thanks, Bob