milty60

Appreciate all the info - may spend money to get a suby center diff (AWD is best in Northeast but part here is $500) also like the idea of making it a FWD - do you guys agree that's doable? No harm to the tranny? Son is thinking about getting a replacement car - this ones got 250K on it - not sure how long its going to last. May dump in $500 now and something else goes in a number of months. Thanks, Milty

So the viscous seizes up once the car is at 30 min plus drive time. Do the plates lock up and cause the torque bind issue? $500 bucks new one out my way. Saw a couple on Ebay. Are there rebuilds, chancy getting a junk yard one. Not rebuild-able by a Diyer? Thanks, Milty

I should replace the entire center differential - the viscous coupler is a component in the diff - when that component is bad it causes the torque bind? Found a youtube video - looks doable - take some time been working on cars since I was 16 - almost 60 - my son will help. Here's the video. How much time do I have? - its been doing this odd behavior for a few months - no other drive-ability issues. Thanks, Milty

Power steering fluid is normal. No check engine light. Most recent behavior after a half an hour of car driving (does not occur when car is cold) when I back out of a parking spot, I don't hear any noise but it feels like I have a bubble in the tire every six inches around the circumference. This happens each time I back out of a parking spot with steering wheel turned right or left - never a noise or sensation when backing out straight - only on moderate to tight right or left turn. Advice? Thanks, Milty

Tight circular turn front end noise and odd sensation in steering wheel. What is this? https://youtu.be/E-N4K76KhlE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3ghtNkihVA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCyIbmSyVK0 Thanks Milty

I replaced the Relay a while back - idle is stepped up a bit. I still have codes to investigate although the car does not seem to show any ill effect due to codes - at some point I will get hit with an emissions check from DMV and will have to get that light off and/or issues fixed. I still have these codes: 2 current faults - P0204 powertrain injector circuit - cylinder 4, and P3100 powertrain, also 2 pending faults - P0104 powertrain mass or volume air flow circuit intermittent - P2000 Powertrain - NOx trap efficiency below threshold bank 1. I cleaned the MAF with designate cleaner - still getting code. Any thoughts on codes? I wonder if I have a short somewhere causing one or all of those codes? Thanks, Milty

Sounds right - wrong bolt. Actually, when I removed a couple of washers the bolt tightened to my comfort level - its been holding tight since starter motor install. Thanks, Milty

Replaced the starter motor on my son’s car over the weekend – its never been replaced looks like original Suby starter. Came out fairly easy – top and bottom bolt needed some muscle to break free but not bad. Top bolt has 2 washers and a lock washer and a bracket that the ground cable attaches to. I finger tightened the top and bottom bolt. When I used the ratchet on the top bolt as it became tight I could hear and feel … I’ll call it a skip and a click – it would not tighten beyond this point … ground bracket still loose – I said to my son oh S*it now it needs to be drilled out and heli-coiled in a very tough spot to do this – probably need to tow to a machine shop. I took the bolt out and at the very bottom could see for just about a quarter-inch – metal threads surrounding the bolt – bolt undamaged - unscrewed thread from bolt – assume this is the internal threads in the mount that were broken free – somehow? So, I said it seems like a lot of washers on this mounting bolt – I removed the thickest one and said hopefully the bolt will go in a bit deeper and catch some good thread – thank the Subaru Gods – it did – tightened up nice – I’ve rechecked it a few days after long runs with the car to get it up to temp so motor etc can shrink/expand – no issues. I can’t believe I would have stripped or cross-threaded the hole – was it just time to for the bolt hole to loose threads? The manual tranny was replaced 6 months back by neighborhood DIYer I think this bolt is one of the bolts that mounts tranny to the engine but I need to look closer – did the DIT guys over tighten the bolt then? Thoughts? Thanks, Milty 09 Forester manual 250K

Cleaned MAF sensor and connector - cleared code p0104 - it's back - I don't detect any drivability issues but need advice on resolving check engine P0104 code. Thanks, Milty

Cleared codes - 1 code came back P0104 - MAF circuit - I'm going to purchase the MAF cleaner and also reseat the electrical connector. Then, clear codes again see if it comes back. Any advice? Thanks, Milty

Showed Subaru parts guy multiple wiring diagrams and pictures of fuse box – finally got correct relay – swapped it out – cleared codes but codes came back a few hours later – haven’t checked with odbc tool but assume same codes – will check this weekend. I don’t detect any issues with the car at this time – idle is steady – sits around 650 – no stalls – hesitation – power loss. Trying to decide my next steps for those codes? Thanks, Milty

Pulled relay that was marked in picture - has a number on it 156?8-3818 - below it a - V - I must of scratched the one number off trying to get the relay out it was tough to remove - its mounted flush in fusebox - couple of clips on both sides - I called Subaru parts - guy said that number is only a casting number - he tried to locate it on his diagrams - but could not find a "Main Relay" so I plan on pulling it over the weekend and taking it in - he said he should be able to match it up then - can't believe how tough this is to identify - not feeling super confident he will identify it - I see two other relays in that fuse box that are identical to this one. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ I'm going to pick up the cooling system conditioner and give it a try for temp fix to my leak problem. Thanks, Milty

I reposted photos - then realized I already had replies. Thanks, Milty

I found a relay fuse box under the glove box and more relays next to the fuse box under the dash on the driver's side - still not sure which relay is the "Main relay" See photos Thanks, Milty

I replaced hose throttle body to heater hose tubing - no leak at hose - but a very slow drip is coming somewhere at T connection on heather tubing that travels over intake manifold to behind timing belt area. Can I use a stop leak to temporarily fix. Looks like a nightmare to replace tubing. Thanks, Bob

I located second fuse box below glove box and another resistor pack below driver's side - still struggling to determine which resister to replace - see photos and please advise. Thanks, Milty

So. I replaced the hose - throttle body to heater hose tubing (T juncture) - no more leak at hose. But very slow drip somewhere along heater hose (T juncture) tubing to point it ties into bigger heather hose tubing. Looks like a nightmare to replace the heater hose tubing - I think I would have to remove the intake manifold and timing belt cover and more to replace it - I don't know if it bolts in is pressed in, etc. It's such a small slow leak I may leave it alone for now. What do you guys think of leak stop (black pellets in a bottle) as a temporary fix? Or another product? _________________________________________ I located 2nd fuse box passenger side below glove box - but still not sure which resistor to replace. I also found resistors next to fusebox under dash on drivers side. Pictures attached. Which one is Main resistor? Thanks, Milty

So. I replaced the hose - throttle body to heater hose tubing (T juncture) - no more leak at hose. But very slow drip somewhere along heater hose (T juncture) tubing to point it ties into bigger heather hose tubing. Looks like a nightmare to replace the heater hose tubing - I think I would have to remove the intake manifold and timing belt cover and more to replace it - I don't know if it bolts in is pressed in, etc. It's such a small slow leak I may leave it alone for now. What do you guys think of leak stop (black pellets in a bottle) as a temporary fix? Or another product? _________________________________________ I located 2nd fuse box passenger side below glove box - but still not sure which resistor to replace. I also found resistors next to fusebox under dash on drivers side. Pictures attached. Which one is Main resistor? Thanks, Milty

Appreciate it - I will check it out over the weekend. Thanks, Milty

Still trying to determine the location of the "Main Relay" to see what condition it is in and/or replace it. I spoke to a Subaru dealer parts guy - he said Subaru is a pain in the butt when it comes to identifying any relays. Parts do not list a "Main relay" I told him what is hooked to it - maf, egr, fuel inj - he said he cannot locate it but look for the biggest relay with the biggest prongs closest to the passenger side under hood in the fuse box - the biggest one in that location has written on the lid diagram - main fan relay. So, I hate to take it to Subaru and have them charge me labor to point it out to me - unless they would do it as a courtesy to help out the parts guy. Thoughts? Thanks, Milty

Sure could be. Once I replace hose I'll see how car behaves. Update - I found a small coolant host that goes from the throttle body down to engine block – it has the OEM squeeze clamps on it – I can move clamp around with my fingers – looks like original hose too - I ran my finger on the bottom of the hose by the throttle body and its wet – coolant runs along the hose and drips around the intake manifold in the back right and pools in depressions in the engine block – going to get a new hose and screw type hose clamps this weekend. Thank God I wasn’t facing a manifold gasket replacement this weekend. Thanks, Milty

I need to investigate further but I see a very small puddle of coolant sitting in indents in the engine block around the back right area of the intake manifold. I don’t know if it’s a manifold gasket leak or some other hose/pipe in that area that may be leaking. The radiator level and overflow tank are right on the mark – so it’s a slow leak – I need to dry up the small puddle and see how quickly it fills in and/or rent a pressure tester this weekend and look for a leak. I had previously sprayed carb cleaner around the entire intake manifold to see if I had any vacuum leaks – no increase in idle occurred – so I’m assuming no cracks in the manifold. Until I investigate further do you guys know of anything else that may be leaking in that area? Do you think this is a separate issue entirely or could be related to all those check engine codes and/or low idle? Please advise. Thanks, Milty

I'll try to use the diagram to locate relays and check to see if I have a IACV with a crack Thanks, Milty

I looked under the hood at big fuse box - I see relays but not the main relay - also checked fuse box under dash driver side - only see fuses - where do I find the main relay? I will probably just swap it out. Assume its a Subaru dealer part. Thanks, Milty

I will look into it. Thank, Milty