gazza01

18inch of 4x2 and a big hammer. Once u have the cylinder heads off u can stand the ea81 (Im not up to the ea82s) engine on a piece of thick cardboard to protect the Cyl head bolts and let loose with the big hammer works to a point but a LOT of that SPECIALIZED WD40 helps. Seized engines are a nightmare I find generally its only one piston thats seized that usually the one that holds the oil. If u have 2 pistons on one side where u can get the Gudgeon pins out its a start. Find the rogue piston and "Safely" stand the engine upright with that Specialized WD40 on top. I pull the Gudgeon pins out with a Dent puller slide hammer from Temu with a 12x125mm Dynabolt pulled up tight in the Gudgeon and attached to the thread with a long bolt at bottom of slide hammer.

I'll give that liquid nitrogen a try IF I can find place to buy it. Maybe last resort freezing water .

I seem to be getting a lot of ea81 seized engines of late, always just the one piston that is totally jammed hard. I find it always impossible to get the Gudgeon pin out of the seized piston, meaning I have to split the motor and try unbolt the connecting rod to the seized piston, and then try to drive the seized piston out with a piece of timber and a big hammer,- sometimes works. If the piston is totally Seized nothing Im using seems to work has anyone out there got any ideas.

Just finished putting rear Disc Brakes on my 92 Brumby feels lot safer vehicle stops quicker and all 4 wheels feel like they are working together. Got most parts from Rockauto hardest part was the rear dust/stone guards eventually get a st in the US and not cheap.

There is NO difference between ea71 and ea81 pistons I have pulled down both motors the Pistons are the EXACTLY same dimensions, gudgeon pin dimensions etc are the same. Both pistons are 92mm. EA71 has a 60mm stroke and a 111mm Conrod centre to centre , and the ea81 a 67mm stroke and a 117mm conrod c-c. The engine block of the ea71 is 345mm and the ea81 370mm. EA82 pistons are 92mm and compatible with both ea71 and ea81 motors. EA82 Turbo pistons are 92mm and they are recessed on the top and are a non event in a non turbo motor. To get the extra performance from Turbo ea82 pistons the engine has to be fitted with a turbo.

I know now why it costs so much to get a Suby motor reconditioned, as you go through the motions you begin to wonder if its worth the trouble, just pulling the old motor apart, getting the Gudgeons out and separating the two halves is mind bending. My biggest problem is separating the two halves anyone with any tricks would be appreciated.

I had problem with connecting rods in my ea81 motor I sourced an old ea81 motor and got the conrods out. Pretty sure they are identical with ea82.

I have 2 ea71 seized motors I managed to get the Gudgeons out of 3 of the pistons in one motor, the 4th piston and Gudgeon are truely seized. The second motor the pistons wont even move, ive been tempted to force then with a big hammer and piece of timber in an effort to remove the Gudgeons and split the motor to salvage a few parts only other option I guess they will end up at the scrap metal yard.

lI got a new oil pump repair kit for my 91 Brumby I'm ok with most replacement big rubbers and gaskets just 2.small circular rubbers one is thicker and smaller than the other larger thinner one I need to know what is the correct position of each of the 2 rubbers.

Any one out there who can give me particulars on a GOOD Valve spring removal/installer tool for a Subaru Brumby ea71/81, I seem have problems getting one that works properly with the inner and outer springs. Ive been using a half inch socket and hitting it with a big lump hammer, works a treat for removal BUT installing will be another matter.

Ive scored 2 ea71 seized Brumby motors mainly for parts, managed to get 3 pistons out of one motor, positioned the 4th piston using much force to try get the gudgeon out, jammed a 4inch 12m dynabolt inside the gudgeon still wont move even using a big slide hammer. Is it possible to some how split the engine block some how with that seized piston locked in. l

Can someone tell me if the valves and springs Inner and Outer from a ea71 motor are compatible with a ea81.

Yes thought about that but I understand that the rear Diff ratio's on the L Series are different.

Ive taken the Gearbox out of my Subaru Brumby. and have removed all bolts necessary to separate the three sections of the box, however I am unable to actually get it apart. I have a small amount of movement in the back two sections but they will not separate. I need to overhaul the front diff. Any trick to getting them free . I cant find any info on actually dismantling the box itself on Youtube /or Gregory manual. Just need to get the two rear sections off. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I have read all this articles about how to get a pinion bearing on a pinion shaft. Microwave oven , stove tops, ovens etc u name it. All these electric appliances cut out at 230 degrees and some start retracting. The ONLY one on YOU TUBE that really makes sense is where a guy heats a pinion bearing up to 1200F which is round about 500C in Aus using a oxy actelyene torch with the pinion bearing on a steel plate. This guy heated the bearing on the plate to 1200F and it dropped straight on. Ive tried these 200degrees and above to 300 and NO GO they are a TIGHT fit bearing. Also I have check the map of the front gearbox Diff on the Brumby and it only shows ONE bearing and that is on the pinion shaft which is part of the Diff case.

I have done the UNTHINKABLE. I have removed a Brumby gearbox that has been rattling in the front diff when i drive . Appears to be on left. Jacked the front up and spun the wheels in first gear right front spun well, but left moved in spasms and rotated in slow stop start rotations. Removed the box and extracted the differential roller bearings with great care. The front axle drive shafts have no bearings now. Can I get away with heating and dropping in new roller bearings and resetting the Axles Shaft holder . If so can I reset the Diff and how. Trying to avoid breaking open the box.

Yes have photos but seem having no luck putting them up on site.

Yes I have removed the front Axle Shaft Oil seal holder and behind that is a roller bearing on the Axle drive shaft which has been rattling bad as I drive under acceleration. It was badly worn very loose. I have removed the outer race and the race bearings (17_bearings) and have the inner race left which is pressed on to the Axle drive shaft. I need a bearing puller to extract that inner race. Once removed Im told that heat the new bearing to 200 degrees at it should fit on. Trying to get out of dropping the gearbox which apart from this fault operates perfectly. Having a few problems extracting that inner race. Have a slim bearing extractor which I will have to modify to get grip on the rear of the back of the race and a stopper metal pipe on front of Axle shaft to hold in place while extracting this race. Any views on this crazy project.

I currently have problem with the Pinion bearing on my Subaru Brumby, The pinion shaft that comes out of the side of gearbox to connect with cv drive shaft is rattling and noisy. I have screwed out the circular plate (turn anti clockwise to release) that covers the bearing . I marked the position of the circular plate prior to removing it and counted the number of turns required to release it so it can be returned in the same position. I now have the huge job of finding a bearing extractor for this particular job. I obtained the pinion bearings from BSC. Bearing is NSK HR 30207J and the seal is AHI513F. Bearing cost $17 and seal $15.20. I am now racking my brain on how to remove the bearing. I know that to replace the bearing it must be heated to 200 degrees and then placed on the pinion shaft. The job is tricky but taking the gearbox out and replacing it is a job of very last resort. All I need is an appropriate bearing extractor.