RXTurbo

Yeah that'd be fully hektic bro.... So only BS mods like plugs and earth leads hey? Knew I should have bought the XR6 I looked at...

I have a 03 H6 EZ30 Outback, it could do with more ponies.... Anyone here tackled that question yet? I did a search but nothing of interest came back...

there is now a skeleton ausubaru forum operating at http://70.85.249.34/~byb555/forum/index.php It will most likely be deleted in a few days when the backup arrives from ipaska, but is enough to keep in contact until then. If you register, you will receive an activation email that asks you to click a link - the link won't work, you need to replace the bit that says 'ausubaru.com' with '70.85.249.34/~byb555' and then the activation will work.

I have just been speaking with Brett and he has arranged a new host. The website www.thebackyardboys.com.au is currently resolving correctly and Brett hopes to have forums back up this evening. He still does not have the complete back up from ipaska yet but is waiting on it. www.ausubaru.com was actually registered by ipaska so there is some difficulty in getting it transferred to the new host.

All, with the Ipaska servers all turned off it has made it kinda hard to continue organisation of the Ausubaru 2005 BBQ, seeing as Ausubaru was sitting on an ipaska server!!! I don't have the details off the top of my head, but hoping the USMB community will allow us to continue this organising here in this thread, awaiting a new and revised Ausubaru!!! If you have the details please post below...

Hey, the sube key contains an RFID tag and is programmed to suit the immobiliser - I think the chances of replicating that are slim to none... I am going to get hold of an oscilloscope and try to measure the signal soonish...

I am putting a MY99 EJ20 from an Impreza into my 93 wagon, replacing the EA. I have the full impreza wiring harness and the whole engine and immobiliser bits are wired into the wagon. It refuses to start, I have concluded that the immobiliser is dead. Has anyone been successful in mapping the output waveform that the immobiliser sends to the ecu? Is it just a squarewave, or is their serial data attached? Need to find out so I can make a box to replicate the signal... Thanks all Ben

Steve at Rising Sun Automotive in Adelaide, Australia has an EG33 in a Legacy and is regularly used (I believe it is a daily driver) See http://www.ausubaru.com for Steve's contact details.

I have only paid about $90 australian for my MS, all I bought was the board with MCU, MAP etc, I had everything else already. Making an adaptor to fit the MPFI manifold to the SPFI heads is a bloody fantastic idea, makes a lot more sense to me to do that rather than fab a whole new manifold. A whole lot cheaper too!! I have PM'd you my MSN Messenger log in if you wish to discuss further - I am usually on the net most nights.

Yeah, I know Bowraville, just inland from Macksville. My sister in law lives at Nambucca. I have virtually the same car as you, a 1992 built 1993 L series DL wagon. It is a carby EA82. I have a lift kit and big tyres etc. I want a motor with greater low rpm torque, my aim is to have the factory peak torque coming in at around 1500rpm. I have no cares for RPM greater than 4500 so am not interested in peak power. My car is for 4wdriving, if it takes me longer to get to the destination then so be it. If you are interested I can make up a similar system for you as I will be using? Will be about 12 months away though. Have a look at some of the backyard metal casting websites, they will give you an idea of just how easy it is to make stuff from alloy. If you are good with a file and a drill press, you don't even need a milling machine!!! Best thing to do with the Megasquirt is to download the manual and read it, printing it first is best, it is about 130 pages.... This will give you a feel of just what is involved, it is no Microtech plug n play system... What are your plans for the car? Using throttle bodies over the head leaves a very short inlet, which is more suitable for peak power at around 8000rpm a longer, smaller diameter inlet decreases peak torque and so decreases peak power. What machine tools do you have access to?

Ausubaru92, From your sig you are an apprentice electrician, I assumed you actually knew something about electricty. Light output is not related to heat output. With incandescent lighting (normal resistance type) there is a lot of heat, brighter globes will increase the heat output. LED's emit virtually no heat for their brightness. Yes, LED's are expensive but they last a lot longer than incandescent globes and are a whole lot brighter.

Ausubaru92, take a look in this years Jaycar catalogue (just been released on the front of Silicon Chip mag), they have PCB's designed to take 2 or 3 bright white LED's using the end caps from a blown (intentionally) globe, this should solve you light brightness problems without increasing electrical load.

I will be fitting a megasquirt system to an EA82, I am at Tamworth not too far from you. I will be fabbing up a whole new inlet manifold from alloy castings and carbon fibre and running a separate coolant pipe EJ style with a EJ turbo style radiator swirl tank. Depends a lot on what injectors you have as to how they are mounted. Standard EA82 injectors (early bosch style) have two mounting screws, you will need either 4 holes, or 2 holes with bigger injectors though. I don't understand why you are fabbing a Map sensor as the megasquirt system has an onboard map sensor?? You can add a turbo further down the track if you like. Where on the Mid North Coast are you located?

I've never used a spring compressor on the back coilovers, usually one hand provides the pressure, other hand puts the first nut on. With HD springs you don't even need pressure...

You guys that are carrying on about patent and crap, you do of course realise that there is at least 5 manufacturers of lifts in Australia, all make 2" kits because we can't legally fit anything bigger than that, and they all pretty much look the same and use the same design to achieve the lift. Only main differences are the steering extensions. I like the look of the rear of the Allied kit and am considering changing my rear to that style. I have been looking at building a set of portal axle drives for the front to get cv angles and gear reduction back in check - I am happy to say this and share any ideas and concepts I have mostly because if I do and somebody copies it, I hope they extend my generosity and talk to me back about it. I know that no big aftermarket giant will pick it up because the market isn't large enough, so that isn't a worry. For anyone interested, I drive a 93 L series (EA82) wagon with a 2" body lift, 3" strut extensions and 1.5" spring lift. I also have BFG AT 27's on Scorpion rims. I have 16" clearance under the sills at the back, 13" under the rear crossmember lift blocks and 10" under the diff. I have taken the car on some crazy rutted tracks and have not had any clearance issues. I bought a scorpion steering extension because welded extensions are illegal in Australia and is the only part on the car that I didn't make (although I have the capability, I more bought it so I could copy it for future kits.) My current plans for offroad bits include a detroit/lockrite/powertrax style automatic rear difflock (currently making the tools/jigs to do this) and as mentioned above, the portals - These will be a 1.2:1 ratio drive and mount to the front, with a 3.7 diff in the front this will give the same drive ratio as having stock tyres, but with 27's and for the rear the fitment of a 4.44 diff will be necessary. We can't use 8" lifts with divorced tfer cases here, so we need to find other solutions to the subes problems. I congratulate the guys from Allied, people that look at our cars from a different perspective and think of solutions to our problems are welcome in my book. That additional diff clearance can be very handy, well done guys!