Moodybluesr

Temporary Site: http://xt6.proboards50.com/

Just about to hit the hay in Harrodsburg, KY. See you all later today.

I replaced the brake fluid in Ruby Sue last night and replaced one of the u-joints; didn't have time to do the second one. It turns out "non-servicable" really means "pain in the a** to service." It took about two hours to swap out the one. I really wish I found a new(er) pitch stop mount for the rear diff before I took off... the one on the car is pretty much devoid of any rubber anymore and makes a nice "clunk" under hard acceleration every time I shift gears. Ah well, maybe Evolved will have my fenders ready to ship out and he can include a pitch stop in the box by the time I get back from the trip. I will be leaving tomorrow afternoon and hope to arrive at Fontana just after noon on Friday, possibly with Huck's caravan. This trip has been a long time coming, hasn't it?

Caught this one at a local autox a couple years back... the rear 14" wide Hoosiers are powered by a Cadillac 500ci V8 and the fronts are powered by a 2.2 Chrysler Turbo motor SIMULTANEOUSLY. I don't know exactly how he got them to sync up, but it was defianately a cool car:

Man... well if anyone needs a room let me know as being a full time student doesn't make me exactly the richest guy in the world. As of this moment Jeff plans to stay on the floor so it would only cost you $60 for both nights in a comfy full-size Fontana Village bed. And my name ain't Mike dammit... :-p

I second Phil's comments. I just got through alot of pain and frustration with Molly, but I think I have finally got her to the point I really like driving her. Don't let ol' Rock get to you; just keep at him. Definately don't let him sour you on all XT6es, as they are some of the coolest cars ever made (you know the feeling you get driving him when he is acting normal... I know it).

She will be for sale/trade at the end of the autox season more than likely... not with those wheels, though. The rims will be going on my other XT6 (Molly is black and beautiful and growing on me every day) and Ruby Sue will be sold with stockers. I am going to miss her, but it wil be impractical for me to keep two of these beasts around for too much longer.

xt6.net is down and I am bored so I am looking over USMB for a change and found this thread. I autox quite a bit with my XT6 in STS, in fact, I am the event chair at this weekend's CIR-region event. Here is a video from very early on last season at a fund raising event: http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=4897406 And here are some pics from a few days ago of Ruby Sue on her new (crappy) Sumitomo HTRZ II tires on Volk rims that I bought for this season:

Welcome to the site!

I've been on a while and still don't have enough posts...

I live in Shampoo/Banana (Champaign/Urbana) two hours south of Chicago. I am up for a meet, though I have very limited time due to being a full time student and working about every other spare moment. I do get Sundays off, though. Spring break is also coming up for me March 17th-25th.

My '97 OBS has GR2's now, and they are definately stiffer than stock. I find them tolerable, but my previous daily driver was a Honda Accord lowered with H&R sports and Koni specials, so I was used to STIFF.

I hear that. Ruby Sue is fast. My OBS (also named Rocky) is a pig. It has some get up and go with my foot to the floor, but it corners like its on stilts (which it pretty much is compared to the XT6).

GRM had good things to say about the Power Card. http://www.powercardtuning.com/

The wheel bearings are sealed. The problem you described with the car not rolling would seem to have more to do with the brakes than the bearings. Bad wheel bearings will make a sort of roaring sound at speed when they go bad. You may have a stuck parking brake or you may have to lubricate the caliper slides to solve that problem. The clutch is a cable type, not self adjusting. It can be adjusted quickly and easily right under the hood. The lock nut is 10mm and the adjusting nut is 12mm if I remember right. My rear wiper was not working when I bought my wagon and it turned out to be the wiring harness between the hatch and the body got pinched and had to be redone. I have seen other people on this board with the same problem, you should check this out first. The harness is inside a rubber boot that fits between the hatch and body on the passenger side of the car. The '95 motor is non-interference, so the timing belt is not as much of a critical issue.

Don't know where you got your info Gary, but all Hondas built in '88 were interference. The Accords had the A20 SOHC 12 valve motors, carbed or FI, both of which were interference.

Having been a Honda guy for over ten years and having recently switched to Subaru for my daily driver (a 1997 Impreza) I say jump on it. Your mechanic may not have too much experience with Subaru and could be a little intimidated. After working on them a little bit he will lose his aprehension. Timing belts are a PITA on Hondas, especially the later gen Accords and 'Ludes with the balance shafts. The timing belt/water pump job on my Impreza took all of three hours the first time I did it. I could probably whittle that down to two next time. The suspension and steering work I have done has also been very straight forward. Speaking as a mechanic, I say go for it, as long as the unibody's structure looks pretty solid from the rebuild.

I had XT6 seats in the Hondamino so it shouldn't be too difficult to put them in a Legacy.

$323.31 from www.rockauto.com shipped to me with my discount code. Your shipping may be more/less, you'll have to see. Information on discount code (for everyone): Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you. Your discount code is: 538699349291 Here's how to use it: * In our Java Catalog, enter your code in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. * In our non-Java Catalog, enter your code in the "Discount Code" field of the Shopping Cart and click "Calculate Discount." Discount code is good until January 16, 2007.

I use a Napa Spinflow (made under a Wix patent) on my Suabrus and have no complaints. They are the one's in the Nascar box and sell for around $3.50 each at Napa. They use a synthetic media much like the pricier Mobil1 filters. I didn't see those reviewed in the above article, but they are a relatively new design. http://www.napafilters.com/nselect/#

+1 on the thumbs up for Gates belts. They are one of the only brands I would trust other than OEM (and being a fromer Honda guy I have used alot of t-belts over the years). My personal brand of choice is Dayco, though. The belt I just put on my '97 OBS was a Dayco belt, which I installed with all new Dayco pullies. I got them from www.rockauto.com and I think I paid like $22 for the belt and $150 for the pully kit. If you buy both at the same time they warranty the whole package for 60k miles.

I used technafit lines on one of my Hondas last year. They were really well made and realtively inexpensive. Here's a link to one of the websites that carries them: http://www.raceshopper.com/technafit_brake_lines.shtml And a link to their direct website: http://www.techna-fit.com/

https://www.automedicsupply.com/showpicture.php?&sensor=27110 There are a few different tools made specifically for this purpose; there are three of them that come in the kit above. You can buy them individually if you know which one will work for your situation.

Fog-x