Roobaflu

you gave me a flywheel with a bad pilot bearing? this sucks, the tranny swap was supposed to be done in less than a day (thats what I was told anyway), now here it is going on two weeks that my only vehicle has been off the road.

it is NOT the cable.... the lever on the trans is as far back as it can go, and I went through the starter hole and pulled the pressure plate bolts and it STILL does it... if the pressure plate is unbolted it shouldn't engage at all, regardless of pedal position or cable length or tension, right?

well I seem to have the suspension issues sorted out, got the 2wd trailing arms on the 4wd rear subframe... not sure why but the back end came out higher than I expected, weird, but the camber and toe in probs are no longer there. Front end is sorted out except for the tie rod ends, still "brain storming" on that one. Pedal box and cable came out great (Thanks Tom) but now I have to figure out how I'm getting that tranny back out, and then back in :\ thanks for the encouragement everybody, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it

so if the bolts were used to force the engine and tranny together, the input shaft could be "stuck" inside the flywheel now?

I pulled the tranny to engine bolts, pulled the starter to get to the pressure plate bolts, loosened two bolts opposite each other, took them almost out, but not all the way, just REALLY loose, I REMOVED the other 4 pressure plate bolts. Put the trans in 1st, put a socket on the crank, turned the engine over and the car pulled forward :[ without the pressure plate bolted down, how on earth is the clutch grabbing????

ok, it wont COMPLETELY disengage, the way it acts is like the throwout lever is not moving far enough, thats why I suspected the cable first, and proceeded to tighten it. I know however have the throwout lever strapped to the tranny bracket in the full backward position, in other words as far as it will go. Thats how I know its not the pedal or cable. if you start the car in neutral, you cant get it in gear, if you start it in gear the car will move, but if you hit the brake the car will stop but the engine wont', but it will try to move if you let go of the brake. so if you are off the clutch pedal its normal, if you are on the clutch pedal instead of disengaging altogether, it just makes the clutch slip. and no matter what you do, you can't get the tranny out of gear while its running (never seen this before myself, had clutch cables break before and hydro clutch cylinders fail, still could get the tranny out of gear, maybe because its not moving) The engine is an ea81, the tranny, TO bearing(the one off that tranny) pressure plate, clutch and flywheel are all ea82

the pedal feels normal. I agree on the taking it back apart, but the problem is I'm not capable of doing it myself, and the only person that I can get to help me swears its normal procedure to use the bolts too pull it together. If I pull it somehow, do I pull the engine or the tranny? It seems like the engine itself would be easier to pull but harder to align with the tranny on the way back in I am so SOL on this one

thats what I told him, but he argued that its a normal subaru thing. is it likely that it caused damage, or should it be ok if I take it apart ? or maybe loosen the engine to tranny bolts, go in through the starter hole, loosen (but not remove) the pressure plate bolts, then turn the engine over by hand, then tighten everything back up, would that be likely to help?

wont the flywheel only go on one way because of the bolt pattern?also, the guy that helped put this together had to use the tranny to engine bolts to pull the engine and tranny together, is this ok? or is this a sign of something binding?

I just had someone tell me that it sounds like we put the clutch plate in backwards, is this a possibility?

Ok, new problem... was ready for the trial run, and the clutch won't disengage, its not the cable, the pedal is going to the floor, and the lever on the trans is coming back as far as it can go. What did we do wrong???

thats a 12a Nikki carb

sure its not a 12A? 12A should be carbed with a Nikki SHOULD be about 300 cfm 13B would be fuel injected the 12B is confusing, the single distributor 12A was originally supposed to be called a 12B but they decided to keep the 12A name, so technically I guess a 12B is actually a single distributor 12A (earlier 12A's had twin dizzies)

ok, the wonderful guy that sold me the parts car assured me the pedal assembly was complete, BUT, there is NOTHING on the left side of it except the clutch pedal. NOTHING for the cable to attatch to, I've got the cable to pedal attathment figured out, but I'm having a world of trouble securing the cable housing (or sheath) to the pedal box. Does anyone have a pedal box out of the car that they could snap a few pics of the clutch pedal side so I can see exactly what it is I'm trying to do here, something that shows the approximate location and angle would be great. THANK YOU if anyone has any or can take any if you dont want to put them on here, please feel free to email me tsukinosaru@yahoo.com

the deal with the ea82 components was as Miles put it, for availability, because they are easier to find. The swap uses his modified ea81 crossmember, modified outter tie rods, ea81 tie rod ends, and everything else is ea82, axles, control arms, ball joints, knuckles, and struts. The rear subframe was off an ea81 wagon, but he drilled the pivot holes to accept the larger bolts for the ea82 trailing arms. He says this all works, no offence miles, but I cant for the life of me see how you can use ea82 trailing arms on an ea81 subframe without having camber and toe in issues, the geometry is slightly different. as far as the earlier question on the clutch, no its not working yet, since the pedal box was missing the mounts for the cable, I fabricated one but got the angle wrong, so now when I step on the clutch, instead of pulling the cable it just moves it up and down, a relatively easy fix , just need to move the bracket I made to a different angle. The problem is getting the pedal box back out :[ I can still here my mothers voice echoing in my head, she's said it a MILLION times "Why don't you just leave things alone"

Miles said the ea82 rack would work, but we'd have to use ea81 outter tie rods

guess I better pull the lift blocks out of the back end then or its going to look REALLY silly with the back end that much higher looks like I'll be dropping the front suspension tomorrow :\ ahh well, a grinding, popping, clicking ea81 axle on a drivable car is still better than a good ea82 axle on one thats not movable

I still have the original supsension components, except for the steering shaft, which has been lenghthened. So I'm kinda stuck with the lift. it wasnt much, just 1.5 inches between the cross memebers and body, but if gave the tranny clearance needed. I dont know if I can run stock suspension height or if that will hurt the CV joints. or if I can devise a spacer between the strut and strut tower to take up the 1.5 inches. I had a bad axle on the hatch, but the axles on the parts car (ea82) were bad, another reason miles wanted to do the ea82 front end, so we could use ea82 axles. As far as the rear end, I do have a wire welder, hadnt thought of welding the holes in and redrilling them, I just hope I can get them centered. I am guessing I could give up on the 4wd conversion and put the 2wd subframe back in :[ seems like an awful waste after all the trouble to get the 5speed dual range in there. Maybe I should put the auto back in somehow? the only one I have to help with the labor is Miles, and I dont think he's going to want to go "backwards" on this project

Miles is my tech resource. He's the one thats been helping me. He's the one who modified the crossmember for the ea82 stuff and the one who drilled the rear subframe for the ea82 trailing arms

I've gotten in way over my head on this one, between the ea81 car and ea82 parts, I've got my only vehicle torn apart for almost a week now for what should have been a tranny swap, with the parts incompatibility issue, that led to a front crossmember and tranny member crossmember, to a modified front cross member with ea82 knuckles struts and axles, control arms and a rack with modified tie rods that will only accept ea81 tie rods (which are too big to fit in the hole in the knuckle, a tapered hole at that), the guy that sold me the parts car told me the pedal assembly was complete but it wasnt, everything on the side of the pedal box that the clutch cable mounts to isnt there. we had the classic tranny clearance problem (auto to manual swap)and I didnt want to cut or hammer the tunnel so I said the heck with it and put a 1.5 inch lift on it while we were at it (had 1.5 inch square tube, didnt want to do the washer shim idea), while the car is laid up, I figured I'd swap in the ea81 4wd rear sub frame... this was the latest problem... I now have a ridiculous amount of camber and toe-in in the rear. I dont know if its the ea82 trailing arms are that different, I thought of putting my ea81 FWD trailing arms on that subframe just to have it drivable (dont have rear axles yet anyway) but the subframe has been drilled out to accept the ea82 pivot bolts, so if I put the ea81s on there, there will be play in the bolt. To top all of that off I'm on disability for heart problems and wound up in the hospital last night from pushing myself too hard this last week. I don't know what I was thinking when I got into this, but I'm way over my head :[ I don't know it even can be put back to stock now, and if it can, I'm sure not physically capable of doing it. What do I do now? part it out?

I NEED to do a front end suspension lift, I know this is usually a bad idea, as far as cv joints and such, I wont get into reasons, but lets say for whatever reasons you needed to LIFT the front suspension 1.5 inches to CORRECT the cv joint angle. How would you lift the front suspension 1.5 inches??? ea81 car, ea82 control arms, knuckles, and struts (adjustable struts but the adjusters are rusted to @#$#) don't think they would have given me an inch and a half anyway :[

you've GOT to love the hatches, especially the blue one I see pics of, lifted, awesome front bumper, satin black on the bottom sitting on white wagon wheels, most beautiful hatch I've ever seen wish I knew more about it. As far as 85 GL hatches, thats what mine is, I only wish mine was in half as good of shape as yours sounds. do we get to see some pics?

no orange?

figured even though its not running that I would give you guys/gals an update, I've had the car almost 4 weeks now, re-did the interior, changed seats, welded in new rocker panels, sandblasted and ground out any rust I could find, welded some metal into the quarters, changed from dual rectangle headlights to the older style twin round, changed exhaust. in the middle of 5 speed swap right now, figured I'd throw a pic your way

metallic purple or bright green , I mean, come on, those are the only two colors there are , I mean, there arent really any other colors out there are there??? LOL