ClassySoob

Where are the actuators located? And what line connects to the engine. I have a swapped 2.2, but it has worked since I swapped the engine.

I'm not getting anything as of now. It used to work great, then I started to have to play with the buttons and turning the on and off to get it to work and the defrost selection stop working. Now it doesn't work at all.

Hey guys, I got my 85 FrankinSoob GL, my heater recently went out. I was wondering what the most common problem is that could cause the heater to stop before I tear into it. For a while I had to play with the buttons turn them on and off until it would come on. But now no matter how much I mess with it, it does not work. The fan motor seems pretty simple to get to, but before I tear apart the dash, is there any I should check first? All the fuses are fine. I noticed the selector switch is vacuum based, so where is the vacuum actuator that runs it. Any control relays I could check? Lemme know what your experiences with this. Thanks, Daniel

I've thought about a shop, but like you said that's pretty pricey. I don't have alot of cash and need my car haha. I've done some fix a threads before, but never on a head bolt. I did some more searching and found the right size helicoli set for $40. So I think I might chance it

Hey guys, So I'm in the middle of a re-ring on my 97 2.2L, I was getting ready to reinstall the heads and a couple of my threads spun. I mounted the heads and went through the first step of tightening, which was 22 ft-lbs. When I started the second step of 51 ft-lbs, I barely started on the number one bolt and it spun. This happened on both side same #1 bolt. I was wonder which is a better repair, heli coli, or rethread to a bigger size like M12x1.25. I've searched around and can't really find the M11x1.25 thread repair kit besides pricey ones.

Hey guys, So I'm in the middle of a re-ring on my 97 2.2L, I was getting ready to reinstall the heads and a couple of my threads spun. I mounted the heads and went through the first step of tightening, which was 22 ft-lbs. When I started the second step of 51 ft-lbs, I barely started on the number one bolt and it spun. This happened on both side same #1 bolt. I was wonder which is a better repair, heli coli, or rethread to a bigger size like M12x1.25. I've searched around and can't really find the M11x1.25 thread repair kit besides pricey ones.

So I compression tested each cylinder today. I went 7 strokes on each cylinder a couple times each. On the first stroke each cylinder started at around 100psi, then went up to the peak numbers. Here are my results Cyl #1: 150psi Cyl #2: 153psi Cyl #3: was low first test, about 125 psi then went up to 140 psi on previous test. Cyl#4: 155 psi. My book says that the compression should be in between 156psi and 185 psi. So these numbers are lower. I inspected the spark plugs and all looked like normal oxidization, but #3 was a lil more corroded then the rest. I'll have to inspect the bearings while I'm in there. If there is any wear on them I might as well replace them while I'm this far. How easy is it to remove the pistons without splitting the block?

I Posted this same post in the 90s to Present page, but they have yet to answer me.

I don't really see it while coasting downhill only when I press on the gas after. It's does puff some smoke when I start it up sometimes (not all the time) but usually that one puff is all and it stops.

Hey guys, Ive got an up coming rebuild on my EJ22 engine. I bought the engine and swapped it in with I think 170k miles. Once it was all running, I noticed it burns oil and blows bluish sliver smoke out the exhaust sometimes (especially coasting downhill in gear, then acclerating is when it blows smoke the most). But I've drove it to get me by, but now I want to address the issue. I think it may be bad rings or valve steam seals. Doesn't really feel like it has any loose of compression. This will be my first 2.2 rebuild, so I'm looking for any advise. What should I looks for while tearing down this engine? How are the cylinder walls and pistons usually? When I did the rebuild on my old EA82 with over 200k miles, the cylinders were still in excellent condition with the factory cross hatching still visible. I hoping to get by with out having to reboar the cylinders to a bigger size. Any advise would help greatly. Thank you for reading!!!

Okay, I'll test the compression first. I compared the weight of the legacy outback and the GL, the GL is almost 1000 pounds lighter than the legacy. So I might not be able to tell a lose of compression, so I'll have to rent a compression tool and test them out. Thanks!!!

Hey guys, Ive got an up coming rebuild on my EJ22 engine. I bought the engine and swapped it in with I think 170k miles. Once it was all running, I noticed it burns oil and blows bluish sliver smoke out the exhaust sometimes (especially coasting downhill in gear, then acclerating is when it blows smoke the most). But I've drove it to get me by, but now I want to address the issue. I think it may be bad rings or valve steam seals. Doesn't really feel like it has any loose of compression. This will be my first 2.2 rebuild, so I'm looking for any advise. What should I looks for while tearing down this engine? How are the cylinder walls and pistons usually? When I did the rebuild on my old EA82 with over 200k miles, the cylinders were still in excellent condition with the factory cross hatching still visible. I hoping to get by with out having to reboar the cylinders to a bigger size. Any advise would help greatly. Thank you for reading!!!

Does your 93 have 4wd now? Or is it just fwd?

Okay . My engine is out of a 97, but it should still bolt straight up to a pre 95 trans right?

Good to know. Can I use the diff from the donor? Thanks!!!