scoobdude
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About scoobdude
- Birthday 03/10/1978
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Location
Austin
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Interests
cars
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Occupation
tech support
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Biography
been working on cars for about 10 years
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go over you owner's manual on how to work the A/C. i know the 05's have climat control so its different than the 04. but you might still need to push a button for A/C as well as settign the temp low enough. but the noise you speak of sounds like the fans. you can also open the hood at operating temp and wait for them to turn on and see if the noises are together. #2 is a relay. they wired the 04+ different due to the addition of HIDs i believe on the STi. Joe
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spngy pedal could be caused if there is a detent cable. check to see if yours uses one. but i am prettys ure they have ben using all electronic ones for awhile. if it constantly stalls try this, try to put it in nuetral when braking(helps save your brakes also). this can be done without pushing the button (iff applicable). N-D is always unlocked in case of sticky throttle or quick start after engine dies on rd. if you push the buttom you may jam it into reverse...whihc is NOT GOOD. good luck and keep us posted Joe
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Cel Po420
scoobdude replied to MDW25gt's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Sorry i did not see wher you had replaced your exhuast. try this and then reset. get a 19mm spark plug defouler and drill a 1/2" hole though it. then grab another one and screw it on the drilled end. then take out your o2 sensor and install the defoulers. then put your 02 sensor back on. this worked for me until i got Em. good luck. Joe -
Cel Po420
scoobdude replied to MDW25gt's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
p0420 may be bank 1 sensor 2 which applies to the sensor after the catalytic converters. mine was throwing that code when i changed the exhaust and took out the cats. sensor is probably faulty. good Luck Joe -
try www.soko.com we used to get nissan and toyota motors from them. much better pricing to: last time i checked a VG30ET (with turbo)for a 300zx single turbo was 650 shipped no core last time i checked a VQ30DE (all aluminum, moly rings and microfished crank and cams form the factory) was 1800. tranny was 800 for SE and 650 for GLE/GXE its been about 2 years since i called them though. there are other companies than can get you similiar though from japan. japanese motors are usually less than 30K miles due to emissions. goodluck Joe
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block to fram gound would not be culprit for gauges though would it? i would say, check battery and check connection at starter and alternator. on most cars, if you disconnect the starter the circuit cannot complete. next time it happens turn on your headlights. if they work then its probably aa ground inside the car to your main harness or accessory harness. good luck and keep us posted. Joe
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good way to check the pump is listen for open the gas cap and have someone turn the key to "on" the pump should run for 1-3 seconds. if this works tehn pump is at least turning on when asked. also check plugs as fouled plugs can cause this type fo problem with that CEL. only 3 things make a motor run: fuel + air + spark = flame. if you have all three than you should be good. Joe
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Another time i have seen a blinking flash is when the diagnostic indicator has been left plugged in or "the paperclip" in some of hte older cars (applies more to domestic though) try taking the ecu completely out and let it sit over night. may just need a brake. electronics act weird sometimes. good luck and keep us posted Joe
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Ok i just want to point out a few things... drive line slop, tire differances (even air pressure effects the total circumfrence or revs per mile) will affect this. my spare is not even teh same size as my stock tires ( off the car where pressure has less of an affect on circumfrence). so subaru is not the know all say all. now i am no engineer, but physics still play their role in this equation, and due to the lack of proof of either side, i suggest we just make our own oppinon and only express scientific facts. and in regards to the center diff... its not a "sealed unit". in an auto the transfer case and final drive assembly are seperated due to differnt needs. auto tranny has auto tranny fluid...while the diff/ transfer case has gear oil. if i am incorrect in any of these please let me know...link would be great that is all Joe