superu

Yes, that is the case, draw-tite, hidden hitch are all made by curt. different prices for essentially the same thing... I was looking for a LONG time to find one that goes up and over the tail pipe rather than under it, like the subaru factory hitches offered in the 96-99 OB wagons. BUT, i don't think those work on a sedan. Aftermarket hitches are speced as the same for sedan and wagon. But there is more clearance in a wagon for a itch that tucks neatly up and away... No muffler?! I guess I'm not surpirised 'cheers

May I suggest a draw tite or hidden hitch? I test fit a U-haul hitch and it sat WAY lower than these I mentioned. The plate steel which curves under the exhaust is much lower on the U-haul than hidden hitch, curtis or draw tite. Check out http://www.etrailer.com/. Good prices on hitches there. hidden hitch U-haul's design this pic is for a 99 OB Cheers and happy hitching!

I agree I should do the swap, but see, you have the motor

I am eager to see that build and hear its final performance characteristics. I've been dreaming of an H-6 swap since I ran into a SUPER CLEAN 94 SVX with 94K miles on it in a junk yard last fall...

Swapped worn, stock 95 LEG steering rack for 98 LGT rack, addressed leking rear cam seal. Hopefully no more leaks, just that right valve cover seep...

Brilliant. Dude, you're getting me thinking about all kinds of trick mods!

I think BFG might not make the 27 in 14" rim anymore. I think they just do the 195x75 in 14. Only 25.5" My next tire will be the grabber AT2, but the size I need is back ordered into December But they make that in the 27 for 14", as you've found. I think they have a nearly idntical tread pattern at about 40% cheeper cost, with a higher mileage rating than the BFG. So for a car tire, heck yeah!! Good work and keep folks posted! You'll love the difference for getting off the beaten path!! best, -mw-

Nice work. Inspiring me to change out mine too.

Nice read. I see you made your decision in post #30, and here's more to substantiate that decision, if you need tires soon. Grabber AT2s have been on back order from the factory since August, and are still backed up until December. cheers, -mark- **EDIT** I just reread and noticed you're looking for 14's. I can't speak for that size but know mad-back order is for 215x65x16.

I used to run a cooper discoverer LT205x75x14's. A good tread pattern, the LT tread patter in a car tire. Then I got the BFG All terrain TA/KO when the coopers wore out. By BFGs are 27x8.5x14. I'm not sure they still make that one though, they're kind of hard to find... I agree with doing the strut swap vs. the spacer too. Agree with all that's been said on getting OB struts. Get complete assembelies (strut, spring and tophat. Also called a "take-off") and the front is a straight swap. For your rear, swap out your legacy tophat (the thing that the upper part of the spring rests on, which is bolted to the strut shaft), and legacy spring (if it's slightly tapered, smaller diameter on top than bottom). Maybe just keep your spring for the rear anyway to keep it simple.... Best and you'll LOVE the increased clearance and better ability to get off the beaten path for your camping trips, etc... cheers, -mark-

Or how about, "Go toward the light Carol-anne, go towards the light!"

While waiting on the general grabber AT2 National backorder, i finished a project...

I tend to ask many things in one post, and folks sometimes respond to one part. So, GD, your response is for this question?: "What does a 1st gear ratio of 3.454 vs. a 3.545 mean for acceleration? And does a second gear ratio of 2.062 vs. 2.111 mean the same?" So the 3.454 with 4.11 FD will be "sportier" than the 3.545 with 3.90 FD? I know the difference is minor but in combination with different FD, the difference will compound. I like sportier, that'd also mean torque-y-er and with a low gear, gooder for towing with a 5MT.. I can only get about 95 now anyway, but with a luggy, lagging low end. SO, I read all things better with this gearing combo (from the AUS tranny)! Thanks for your info and help GD, and others! -mw-

bumping for more input on the difference in AUS 03-04 FOR 5MT gearing vs. US5MT gearing? I think I get it, but want a little more validation.. What does a 1st gear ratio of 3.454 vs. a 3.545 mean for acceleration? And does a second gear ratio of 2.062 vs. 2.111 mean the same? of course this is multiplied by FD so for ease, say they are each 4.11 FD. How might the driving characteristics change?

(As above, but reworded) Are these the numbers we're talking about that help determine driving characteristics, rather than just FD? And these are also tuned to stock tire size (e.g. 185x70x14, or 215x5516, or 215x60x16 etc?) (sorry it's not more chart-like but this gives year and model 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse, FD and notes) 95-96 US leg 3.545 2.111 1.448 1.088 0.78 3.416 3.9 push clutch 97-99 US OB 3.545 2.111 1.448 1.088 0.871 3.416 4.111 push clutch 99-04? US FOR 3.545 2.111 1.448 1.088 0.78 3.333 4.111 push clutch AUS Forester 2003X 3.454 2.062 1.448 1.088 0.78 3.333 4.11 1.196 low range AUS 2004XT 3.454 1.947 1.366 0.972 0.738 3.333 4.44 no low gear US EA82 85-89 5spd 3.545 1.947 1.366 0.972 0.78 3.416 3.9 1.592 low range US EA82T 85-89 5spd3.545 2.11 1.448 1.088 0.871 3.416 3.7 1.196 low range Am I reading this correctly? The USDM forester is geared identically, except reverse and FD, to my legacy 3.90 FD 5MT? And the 04 AUS forester (NA) is geared a touch taller? (is that right from my 3.545 to the FOR 3.454??) in 1 and 2 compared to my 95 USDM 5MT? AND the US EA82 is geared way taller (with smaller numers compared to my legacy??) in 2-4 than my 95 legacy... So I get confused how the EA82 crowd can get away with a carbed (maybe injected, I'm not sure) 1800CC on 4-6 inch lifts, run 29" and still have the get up and go to turn those tires on and off road in 2 and 4 wheel, while I've got a more powerful engine and have lost some low end by going from 24" to 27" tires (and some minor exhaust and intake resonator mods)... How do the lifted EA82s not get robbed of power as bad as I did? Is it in their taller 2-4 gears?? I just don't quite get it, but I'm getting closer Ideas how my rig would behave going from stock tires to 27's (i lost low end there), but going from 3.90 final to 4.11 final (all other gears equal)? Would it regain acceleration and maybe lose a little highway speed, or just have a touch higher RPM at highway speed? And also how would it go from its 3.90 FD (and stock 1-5 gearing) to a 4.11 FD and a touch taller? (I think smaller number means taller gear right? 1-2 as in AUS NA FOR (e.g. I think my stock 1= 3.545 vs UAS FOR 1=3.454 and my stock 2=2.111 and AUS FOR 2=2.062 THANKS FOR INPUT AND HELP FIGURING OUT THIS STUFF!!!!

" The Problem Solver " Just like you dude!!

so the reason for posting 1st gen OB, EA82, 95 leggo (my rig) and the AUS 03-04 Fozzies is those are kind of the transmissions I've been toying with. I've considered the EA 4x4 swap and think I'd get a torquey drive, but that's also FWD, the 4x4 would probably be torquey as well, also a locked center and real 4x4. How would those gears act across the same motor? any ideas? * I think the shorter FD (4.11 vs. 3.90) would be higher RPM at highway speed? is this correct? * And would that 4.11 FD allow a little more torque on acceleration? and how would it play out when combined with a taller? 1 and 2 than my 95 leggo (see next point) * Also curious how the AUS 03 Fozzie's 1 and 2 (3.454 2.062) would play out * My 3.9 5MT and the other US transmission listed have the same gearing listed from 1-5 (except EA82's 2,3,4; 97-99 OB's 5).. I'm kind of hoping for more torque/acceleration in the low gears (1 & 2) and a decent (i.e. NOT 4K) RPM at 70 MPH in 5) RPM at highway speed. thoughts/ ideas??

NICE WORK!! And @ $500 to start, you are WAY ahead of the game.. kudos!

O.K. That actually confirms my suspissions that Honduras, and all Latin America has dual range EJ transmissions like Australia and Europe. I'm actually more interested in a D/R EJ 5 speed than a D/R AE 4x4 5 speed. But as you say you can't get Honduras wrecked parts, so it becomes a bit tricker trying to get a good used EJ D/R 5MT from your country... Hmmm,

Hey JesZek! I'm returning to this old thread with more info and questions for you. I'm finally finding the information I wanted about Australian transmissions and their diual range AWD gear boxes offered in new generation foresters, legacies/liberties and outbacks. BUT I'm still curious about the Honduran transmissions... Like this older legacy with the carbed EJ22 and dual range 4x4.... Do you suspect that was an EA82 transmission or do you think that gen one legacy CAME WITH a dual range 4x4? You also indicated others were with the 4x4 sicker not the AWD sticker... I'm still very interested... It may be cheaper freight from AUS than from Honduras, despite you being MUCH closer, but international commerce is more with AUS... You remember my brother-in-law Erik? He found out about your dual range transmissions and is going to have his brother look into it for me also... I'm still working on getting one, but have not completed the task yet... I hope you and your family are doing well!! best, -mark-

Major bummer man! I'm really sorry to read about this bumm-deal, espeially after all the time, effort and work you'd put into the rig! Mad sympathies and empathies bro. When I T-boned a young lady who pulled across right in front of me, and insurance totalled my car, i fought with them for liek 3 months to get fair market value of my 95 legacy (4ish years ago), to finalizy my settlement at $4500. I can see if I have that insurance paperwork if you would like a copy. Granted market value of northern AZ may be different than where you're at, and granted it's like 4 years ago. but let me know, I'd love to help you get a more accurate car value when compared to the academic unknowing "kelly" value. best to you and your head space, reading the forum, i think you've kept your composure well! -mark-

So here is some data: the US info is from the tranny chart that floats around here and the AUS info is from a tech bulletin (http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...03-04-a-34149/). The EA82 info I got here somewhere, sometime ago. Am I reading this correctly? The USDM forester is geared identically, save reverse and FD, to my 3.90 FD 5MT. The AUS forester (NA) is geared a touch shorted in 1 and 2. US EA82 is geared way shorter in 2-5 than my 95 legacy... Are these the numbers we're talking about that help determine driving characteristics, rather than just FD? And these are also tunied to stock tire diameter, etc? (problems with formatting this gives year and model 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse, FD and notes) 95-96 US leg 3.545 2.111 1.448 1.088 0.78 3.416 3.9 push clutch 97-99 US OB 3.545 2.111 1.448 1.088 0.871 3.416 4.111 push clutch 99-04? US FOR 3.545 2.111 1.448 1.088 0.78 3.333 4.111 push clutch AUS Forester 2003X 3.454 2.062 1.448 1.088 0.78 3.333 4.11 1.196 low range AUS 2004XT 3.454 1.947 1.366 0.972 0.738 3.333 4.44 no low gear US EA82 85-89 5spd 3.545 1.947 1.366 0.972 0.78 3.416 3.9 1.592 low range US EA82T 85-89 5spd3.545 2.11 1.448 1.088 0.871 3.416 3.7 1.196 low range

hey dude, do you have an update on this transmission's application?? interested. . .

Right TCU for auto. I had another thread asking about swapping a 4EAT into this rig... I get you about MT for MT not having those wiring issues, BUT depending on MY of donor car, there might still be some other issues? Or is a MT a MT year independent? Would there be a mY i wouldn't want to go newer of? ALSO, these other posts got me thinking about the clutch issue. there's the hydraulic vs. cable clutch issue... I have a cable clutch in my rig, so what would happen if i got a tranny from a hyrdaulically operated clutch? Is there a fast and simple way to determine this, e.g. newer than 03 was hydraulic, etc? OR are they not that easy to tease apart cable vs. hydraulic operated trannies?

Hmmm. So leggos yes, but COMPLICATED leggos. This tranny was actually an eBay tranny from australia (dual range)... so not so easy to make happen, particularly if i need to pull thisses and thants from the donor car... As (I think both of) you guys may know, I'm trying to get an OB geared 4.11 final dual range AWD (with a useful low gear, either 1.44:1 of ideally 1.59:1). I'm trying to do it the easiest plau and play way without having to gut and swap out from like 3 transmissions to make one... If i got a liberty box from down under and swapped out the front diff from a US OB for 4.11, then swapped out the low gear from a US EA82, i'd end up with a 4.11 1.59:1 low 5MT, but using 3 boxes to do it... I think there are forester down under that are 4.11 final with 1.44:1 low, but they may be XTs, and therefore as you say a difference in hydraulic vs. cable clutches and TCU issues... ARGE!!! I've toyed with an EA82 swap for a rear 4x4, but don't like the 3.90 final.. Althogh the rest of the gears are a bit different from my 95 5MT AWD, so the start up may be different, i just don't like the FWD part of daily driving... AND i think i'd prefer the 4.11 final. . . bu there are other issues, questions with that reality.. Hmm, so it looks like i might do better getting an aussie forester box with the 1.19:1 low and swap that out for a 1.59:1?? But i guess that depends if the rest of the gears and final are better setup for a taller tire (like i think they came, 215-60-16) as with a 4.11 final. . . I wonder if a forester (non XT) would be 4.11 but with the 1.19:1. That way I'd just need that box and an EA82? Hmmmm, more research to do i thinks... I REALLY wish I lived closer to more you USMB gear-heads/wrenches and could brainstorm an pool knowledge bases easier!! So in your opinions, what would be the easiets, most relaible way to get a FT AWD, D/R with 4.11 final and a decent low gear (like 1.44:1 or 1.59:1)? I realize this is going to take knolwedge from australian or european gear boxes as well...