superu

I've seen this picture on the forums (porcupine73), and this reminded me. Have you checked out my thread looking for king spring owners' opinions? http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102561 I know I know, there are a lot of questions in there. . . Anyhoo, I'd love to get your feedback on those springs. Are those raised springs or regular OB springs? I know the raised will lift the car an inch and a half to 2 inches, but i think that's too much for my non-OB subframe components... Thus my thoughts that forester springs might be a touch taller than OB.. But I'm just not sue, never having had them both in hand simultaniously. Thanks for the pic and for reminding me there's another king spring owner out there that, i knew there had to be more than the 2-3 people that chimed in to that thread..

Yeah, I hear what you're saying. I've had people tell me that when they did strut lifts (like on IMP of Lego), they did FOR and OB and someone (I think gloyale) said there was less clearance for a taller tire with FOR compared to OB struts. This makes me think the FOR springs are longer, to fill in the longer space and potentially slightly longer strut travel?? here is a pic of an old OB to a new FOR to an old Legacy strut. The lower spring perch on the FOR strut looks slightly lower (read: closer to the tire, when mounted) than the OB strut. And here is a pic I took when doing FOR strut swap into an IMP (left to right 98 FOR, 95 Leg L, 93 IMP) From an older post AlpineRaven indicated that OB and legacy springs are the same, just that the OB strut shaft is longer, providing the lift. My question was just that if the shaft is longer, does that provide longer strut travel as well? Tribeca, yup that's a whole other beast, one I know nothing about!!

Does anyone know if the Forester coil springs are taller or have a stiffer spring rate than outback springs? I'm replacing the outback struts on my 95 legacy soon, and am thinking about a little taller or stiffer spring too. I've looked into the king/scorpion springs down under and like the idea of their raised spring, but the more i look into it the more confounds come to light. I think there are more complications when putting those springs in OB struts on my Legacy, with things getting pushed down too far for the "L" body and sub frame stuff. THEN, there's the overseas shipping cost etc. Thus, to get a little more lift than struts alone, it'll cost something like $400- $600 U$D BUT if FOR springs are a touch taller than OB, that would be fine, especially when when compared to the 2 " lift of the king/scorpion raised springs and their complications... I think, and please correct me if I'm wrong, pre-04 FOR coil springs are NOT tapered at the top, and would go right on OB struts. Thanks!

NICE!!! I'd love to ride in the new setup sometime !!! Your hatch is REALLY going to go places G! what was that trail called, firebreak, or something like that? I'm thinking, clean with style on your next run. . .

Hey jesZek, How have things turned out over these past weeks for your wife and her reliable, affordable car search? My wife is now in her 3rd trimester and looking pretty pregnant! We are very excited!! Erik and his wife are coming from Indiana to visit us all next week, so we're excited to have a visit from family, and get to show them some of the beautiful country around Moab. Congrats on Honduras making it to the 2010 world cup!!! Viva la footbol!

Does anyone know of a similar chart for automatics through the years??

I'd love to join you on mt bikes if that were an option, but I'll be up in the mountains stalking spikes this week. It'd've been cool to meet another USMBer. Have fun though!! I'll look forward to your Moab report later on.. -mw-

Yeah, still interested in more feedback. I've also heard people getting these then taking them off b/c ride is too stiff. Think old pick up on dirt road stiff and bouncy. They're progressive springs right? Does "progressive spring rating" mean they're a bit soft but get stiffer with more suspension flex (like off-road)? How do they perform on stock struts ( i know scoobyclimbs loves them) vs. new GR2s? Aren't GR2s stiffer than stock to begin with, so combining kings with new GR2s could be pretty stiff 'eh? I've got a lead on a set now and am interested but I just want to know HOW STIFF OF A RIDE they make on a daily driver, especially since I need new stuts soon anyway and I'll be getting GR2s (maybe for a 98 FOR?). I know i'll love them off road but what about everyday pavement. My wife's got new 98 forester struts (GR2s) on her IMP and the ride is super stiff. It was bouncy/stiff on the used FOR struts too. i know my car's a touch heavier (3115 lbs. to her 2750 lbs.), but only like 1-2 passengers worth, i.e. 365 lbs. By contrast a 2000 FOR is 3125 lbs. So maybe its just the 360ish pounds lighter of her car on FOR struts makes it stiffer? Anyhoo, i just want a bit more feedback from you guys in the know... Thanks again

Word. I appreciate the tips. I'd probably have been a wreck if i got through putting the engine blocks and the rear arm brackets, then couldn't line up my tranny, etc. etc. and so on. I have noticed car sits higher than outbacks (b/c of the tires too), like more clearance under the rear diff and the front exhaust. Anyway I am considering kings but it looks like i'm still not ready to just slap springs on. i'll need to get more stuff if i go that road. Maybe you know this too. What about FOR struts? I hear lately they give a bit more lift than OB struts,a nd since I need new struts ayway, what about FOR GR2s rather than OB GR2s? And reuse my OB springs?? I put FOR struts and springs on my wife's IMP, but the rear tire swung forward and was taller than front (think 60's muscle car raked look) with the complete FOR setup. So i put my stock LEG springs on the rear FOR strut and that levelled it off pretty well, then we went for 295x65? 15s (OB rims) on her IMP, and it looks stock, unless parked next to a real IMP, then you notice its taller. Thanks again! Sorry for hijacking a little there. . .

I think I might prefer corded. That way you don't have to buy $60-100 batteries every couple years, especially since I probably won't be wrenching with it every weekend.

bumpity. I left some more questions for you fellas. -word-

Gloyale, I swear you're stalking my posts today You mean you were in Mobe and didn't give me a haller? Jeez!

So is that all you need to do on these newer rigs, the OB front struts and the OB rear coil and shock/strut?

well, shewt.... There I go again, not knowing enough... I thought I was doing good and sharing good info. :-\ I've been running my legacy on OB struts and springs for 5 years and 27 - 27.5" tires for 4, no problems here either (well, save low gearing and inability to climb serious grades, but that's another story ), but now I'm thinking about raised springs. That's when people told me to get the crossmember blocks and the rear swing arm brackets. So since there's more to it than this should i just delete the post?

Does anyone make a good and strong electric impact wrench for those of us without an air compressor? Since doing struts a nd their springs a couple times, I've been thinking life would be a LOT better with an impact gun. BUT without room for or even owning an air compressor, BUT owning extension cords and having electricity at home , it seems like an electric impact gun/wrinch/drill (with 3/4 or 1/2 drive) would be a good option. Thoughts, ideas, information. . . .?

I could (try to) help pull you out! Which dunes you talking about? Shoot, you may know more about these parts than me, I've been here (moab) a little over a year and a half. Drop me a PM for when you're coming down. I'll probly be around

I know there is a lot of interest in this. I have done it and got a LOT of good info here before during and after the strut swap. I put 97 or 98 legacy Outback struts and springs on my 95 Legacy L. I gained about 1.5-2 inches clearance with that setup, put taller tires (27.5x8x14) on and gained another inch. BUT, when thinking of adding lift blocks or doing king/scorpion raised spring, I got a lot of conflicting info from folks here saying that by pushing the hubs down so far it might push my CV axles down to a steep angle, which might shorten their lives. Folks will argue this. BUT, this leads me to another tid-bit of good info I've received ere from a few different folks. When doing the strut swap, it is ALSO a good idea to bring over the engine crossmember blocks (go between the frame/unibody, and the engine crossmember. This effectivly also pushes down the engine/transmission/axles. Also, bring over the rear swing arm mounting brackets. This does a similar "pushing down" to the rear hubs as well, keeping mellow axle angles. Mellow axles are happy axles, and happy axles tend to not break. Now, I finally got these parts too (though the engine blocks are from a forester, but I'm confidant they're the same)!! BUT, I have not installed them yet. Not important for this thread! Point is, here are some pix for you all so if you (like me) get this information or whant to upgrade your OB strut swap with further OB suspension lift parts, this is what you want to look for. Engine crossmember blocks and their funny bolts (there's a platic clip that hold this block to the frame. it goes in that notch on the left side of the block on the right with itsmounting bolts in place.) Kind of a tough picture, but this is the right rearswing arm mounting bracket as site in the car. Lay down on the ground on the passenger side of the car with your feet towrd the front of your car, now shimmy left under the car then now look up to and to your right and this it your view. NOTE: how close the swing arm bolt is to the top of the bracket. Go ahead and try to squeeze your finger up in there on your car. Now note the greater distance between the swing arm bushing and where the top of the bracket is, where it mounts to the car. Plenty of room to squeeze your finger(s) up in there. (this might be the left one, but its irrelevant, technically) Happy lifting new genies!!! -mark-

Here are pix for parts I had to look for. Possibly similar for you (particularly the engine crossmember block) but I assume the rear might be a touch different. good luck,and please keep us posted on lifting this model year on outback stuff!

VERY cool! Can't make the Nationals in Denver next week (friend from Flagstaff might go though ) Nice digging on the info!! Just emailed Jennifer about decals for future events. it'd be funn to dress up the 'ol suby some

So part of my hesitation is daily driving ride. but. . . See I've got the legacy on stock OB struts and springs, and its pretty soft. My wife has an IMP on FOR struts and springs and its pretty rough. This is part of the reason we take my car most places, especially road trips. So i want to know if the kings make the on pavement ride rough, like you feel/hear every crack, or just a bit firmer, with off road excellence! I KNOW i'll love it off road. I checked out some of mthoodsub's videos and its nice to see a legacy bouncing around off road (like some of the liftes AE 4x4's on coil overs or what-not) compared to how my legacy would swish and thunk on those trails... THEN, on dirtyimpreza.com, someone was talking about 04 forester struts and springs ON and OB giving it more of a lift. So now I'm thinking of FOR GR2s and raised kins springs, and maybe 04 FOR stuff... You need to use the rear FOR tophats b/c the spring perch is different ( i think the spring's diameter tapers), but the body mounting is the same as LEG and OB. Just trying to get the COMPLETE picture before i send $700 overseas for springs giving me a set-up, that could be better. I'm planning on doing the raised king springs, no doubt. Just the details man, its all in the details

Pix and vidz up on the utah rally group websit! Checkit! http://www.utahrallygroup.com/picsnvid.php the top window of videos and another slideshow: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=119916&id=511417255&l=9927c2cb32 yep, nearly 2-wheeling it My first rally-x and SOOOO much fun!!! And my friend romping the '09 Most of the day 1 AWD field, save a 98 IMP 2.5 and an Audi A4 V6

Ooh how right you are!!! I should, just do it and I'll be happy!! BUT here's another question Mthoodsub brings to mind Why the OB struts but Forester springs and top-hats?? Why not OB springs too? Could I use my same top-hats (from 97-97 OB) with FOR GR2s or FOR scorpion springs? Would there be an advantage to using FOR GR2s and FOR scorpion springs (regular or raised)? I'm getting new struts soon and am thinking of doing FOR rather than OB... Are forester springs taller or stiffer than OB springs? Is it like a little MORE lift going FOR raised vs. OB raised? OK, I am sold on the stiffer ride and better handling of the king/scorpions, (especially when compared to stock:lol:) BUT (and there's always a butt do raised springs just push the car up and closer to the top of suspension travel? Would it be better to have the whole swing of travel as from NON-raised scorpion springs then push the car up on like a 1" block (see jacksonrally) to get more tire and ground clearance, OR just do it all with the raised spring. See yeti, you thought it was over, my waffling and questioning, but touche I still got questions BUT I am definitely closer to getting the springs.....Oh, and I need new struts anyway, so I'll do the GR2-scorpion combined thing together, WOOP WOOP

I'm a 95 legacy owner using 98 OB struts and springs. That was a straight swap, no problems with VC axles or anything. I realize this is not the same set up as you have but hope I can shed a little info for your interest, if not just a few more question to ask. I looked (briefly) into an OB swap into a 2000/2001 Legacy sedan but found those (I think 2000 and newer) got a different rear suspension (independent?) from my model year, and was confused if it would still be a straight swap from similar model year OB to legacy. I asked around but unfortunately fell short on replies. Hopefully someone can chime in here though and steer you straight, but it seems to me you'd do the front struts straight from an OB into your legacy no problem with CVx or anything (maybe a camber kit (simply a special pair of bolts for the lower strut mounting holes) to help with your later allignment), and the rears would be the coil spring (taller in OB) and separate shock (longer travel? in OB) from an OB to the Legacy. I've also since found out its a good idea to bring the spacer block from the engine crossmember of the OB into your legacy (It fits between the engine crossmember and the body) as well as look into the rear swing arm mounting bracket. BUT since the rear suspension is different from my model year this may not apply. I can post pix of the engine cross member blocks and the swing arm mount later (I am not at home with camera, car and parts just now)... Hope this helps and it'll be good to see a newer model year OB lift!! Congrats and good luck, -mark-

But by putting blocks on, doesn't that just push the body up off the suspension, like body lift vs. a suspension lift of the 'ol 4x4s? Ooh, wait its a unibody, so pushing the body up pushes engine/tranny up too, huh? Hmmmm, I see. Well i did just recently get the engine x-member blocks from a forester and the rear sway arms and brackets from an outback to fit into my lego.. So that'll push the engine down close to an inch and lesses the axle angles up front, then the rear swing arm bracket also pushes things down the same distance so that should help angles too, right? I'm thinking scorpion springs and considering scorpion raised spings vs. a 1" block kit (like from jackson rally, but this looks simpler and cheaper)... :-\ BTW, Nice work on these little lift block sets ya'll!!!

Did you get the one from Zap, or was it Nipper (I forget who is ho in the Northwest...:-\)? this spring? If so, PM me, I've questions