87subbomber

its leaking coolant like a river lol. the cracks are deep on the ea82 1.8 engine. the 2.2 i found runs good, just has no electronics and i really dont want to junkyard for an engine and dash harness as most are cut up

so after all is said and done, the heads cracked on my ea82 gl wagon, right into the valve seats beyond repair. now i found an a 1995 ej22 that runs for cheap. i personally want to carb it as i already have a weber 3236. the ej adapter kit is $400 from sjr, then $250ish for a manifold and $150ish for escort distributor. Thats the easy part, the money. how do you time one of these as in how do i install distributor? how much timing should it use? how do i hook up the ac or do i not hook it up? there arw no electronics on the ej engine right now, so fuel injection isnt really an option.

running rich id check jet sizes in said 3236. when is it running rich? idle? part throttle? full throttle? should be 140/140 mains, 170 primary air, 160 secondary air corrector, 50 main idle 55 secondary idle. f50 emulsion tubes. then lean it out.

also make sure bearings on pulleys are not worn. that was the second thing i had to do. belt was spinning but not the pulley.

Hey mine did the same thing. got it figured out, something that we tend to overlook. You need a better ground. i have 3 ground straps on mine. since doing that it solved my alternator not charging issue. thought it was a positive current problem, ended up being not a strong enough a ground.

never heard of a water leakdown test,are you talking about a cylinder leakdown test?

has anybody thought of asking DSS to do a set? they would definitely build se to hold up to the power but be in the $450 plus range im sure

carbs unlimited sell the manual choke kit. they have given me great service so i highly recomend them

I think its awesome for doing this, but why dual carbs on an ej when one weber 3236 will more than do the job?if you were building a 2.8 stroker that would be sick but Scott at SJR can get you all you need for a carbed ej22. your going to spend more overall on dual carbs over an ej fuel injected an a lot more headache because theres 2x the parts. two custom manifolds, 2 carbs, 2 air filters, two throttle linkage, a custom linkage for tying said two throttles together. then you have the fun of trying to get the carbs dialed in. im not trying to talk you out of it, i think it will be a wicked setup just over kill. for the same price you could put itbs on and use a standalone and make more power and torque

thanks for the info, this isnt just a light flow of smoke, this looks like a volcano erupting smoke, only white

so after investigating, it was not leaking from the coolant passage. is there any other place that would drain coolant and cause the car to pour white coolant smoke out other than a headgasket?

ok so i havent had time to do a leakdown test or compression test yet, but i have coolant in the exhaust. this is a weber converted ea82 car. i figured worst case scenario is a blown headgasket, but oil is not milky. leads me to another thing, coolant passage for carb is not welded or even jb welded. this is a weber conversion so theres still a coolant passage below the carb. if the carb gasket blows im assuming coolant can flow into the intake manifold?

hey, you solved your own problem without knowing it lol. the choke is used to help warm up a car, it remainx mostly closed so it can maintain idle. after it is warm, it MUST be open. accelerating will slightly open the choke, but not open it all the way. to maintain speed it must be fully open. think of a lawnmower, close choke to start, fully open slowly. same with the carb on your car. get a choke hooked up.

it wont be too negative. i mean if you have say a +45 offset on the rim, and a wheel adapter 20mm thick, the offset off the wheel now looks and acts like a +25. it just moves the centerline out more, which can be good for added tire clearance for lifted cars. no way to correct it really and no need to. it will just widen the track width and give a little more clearance

wheel adapters will work, just be prepared to do wheel bearings as it will push the rim to a more negative offset because of spacer thickness. i was just asking if there is a way to put a bigger stud in the 4x140 bolt pattern to help hold the adapter on. then use nice beefy 5-lug studs. i used adapters on a 280z, we had only wheel bearing issues. never broke an adapter or stud, even at 500hp

you need a new intake manifold buddy. theres a crack in that sucker.

if they are built proper then you can almost guarantee you can sell them. problem with adapters is the original studs break because it shifts weight on the outside of the centerline of the hub. since people redrill, why not drill out hubs to heavier studs then make an adapter?

how do we get one if the dealer thats local doesnt carry 80s subaru parts?

i just did a weber swap and it acted the same as your car. checked fuel pressure, ignition timing, cam timing, sprayed starting fluid and bured half my facial hair off. changed plugs 2 & 4 wires, and poof she started lmao. we have all done it!

do you have the right water pump? there is a "short" and "long". i had same issues until i got tue right pump. i also used some rtv to aid in sealing mine, no leaks yet

Just because nobody mentioned it, after cam timing is set and you are ignition timing the engine with a timing light, you must cap the vaccuum advance port on the intake manifold and distributor. i made that mistake before

if it is a tilt column, get the whole column. ignition switches are not replaceable on tilt columns. i screwed four up at the yard trying to do the same thing you are attempting to do. get the whole column if it has a key. if not pm me, my yatd has 4 subarus right now and i think two with tilt columns and keys

set #1 cylinder on tdc compression stroke. install inmer belt with dot facing strait up. rotate engine one turn. dot on first cam belt should now be pointing down. install outer timing belt with cam gear dot facing straight up. now engine should have inner belt cam gear down amd outer cam belt up. rotate engine a full turn. three hash marks on flywheel should be present and be centered. and inner cam belt facing up, outer cam belt facing down. if it is set at 0° you are way off, as that is for setting ignition timing with a timing light. these are not meant to be timed like modern engines that both timing marks align together, they will always be 180° opposite.

$8 at autozone. bearings press out

check fuel pressure first. change all filters second. then check idle jet size. 50 primary idle and 55 secondary idle jets should be used. takes 30 seconds to find out what size they are. float check is easy, i use a sewing tool for mine. (.88 cents at walmart) if fuel doesnt persist to be problem, check plugs and ignition timing (mine is set @ 14° and runs smooth) the sputteri sounds like fuel starvation. id look at fuel pressure first as i stated above