87subbomber

I see your confusion so i will help you out. is it a two piece adapter or one piece? if its a two piece th order goes like this. the one on the right of the picture we will call the "hitachi" gasket. the two identical gaskets on the left we will call the "weber" gasket. the one on the far right goes between the adpater and intake manifold fitting the hitachi carb shape. so it goes "hitachi" gasket, adapter plate, then "weber" gasket, the weber plate, "weber" gasket, then carb.

sorry to hear that. This stuff does happen, licensing agreements fake copies its all bad news. the product i recieved is well built, my technician checked everything, as in pulled it apart. so now today i should be able to test it, if all goes well. i agree dont buy an interco carb thats a copy of weber. but i did and dont have time to deal properly so i will test it run it and if it fails, it will make a fun target

I posted a few days ago about falling victim to buying from webercabsdirect.com. The carb has arrived and although i have not tested it yet, it seems pretty stout and well built. All of the bolts and screws were tight and torqued. the throttle operation is smooth and solid. it arrived later than i expected but it is here and will be installed by tomorrow afternoon. stay tuned for results

yes the legal copy/fake rights suck, but what they are doing is legal. who knows, if the main body is good and genuine weber parts work, whos to say a rebuild cant make a great working carb? whos to say it wont work properly? yes i fell victim, but this is going to be a full on hardcore test of Intercos products. like i said im not bashing the product, i havent got it yet to try it. so i hope i can help in some way to others that have in the past or in the future bought an Interco product.

aparently interco has rights to reproduce under the name weber. they technically are legal to copy and produce. now i have seen some made in china, and some real webers made in spain come out of the factory. so i will see next week which one i get. either way a full review will come from it. if it means a good product great, if its bad then usmb will know and nobody else will fall victim

hey kyle691 thanks for the input. did you buy from weber catbs direct? mine already payed for and shipped so im going to run it until it fails

i guess it is close enough to getting a tax return that i can chance it. i plan on doing a full review of the product. i will be the guinea pig and run it into the ground. i ran a wastegate on my 500hp 240sx that was made by godspeed. it held up, never leaked or spiked so i cant say all copies are bad. it should be here friday, so hopefully saturday afternoon will be a first start up and drive.

ok so my buddy bought his weber from weber carbs direct. it runs great, but after doing lots of research we figured out he was burned and it IS a fake from the company interco. well that leads me to my newest problem, i trusted him to get me the right carb and he ordered it from weber carbs direct and not pierce manifolds. i have seen some real 3236 come outof weber carbs direct complete with made in spain cast on the body and also th white choke cap. i dont want to deal with waiting three weeks for a refund and need my car running as of a week ago. should i chance it an try to run it? has anybody dealt with them before and had a positive or negative product? ( i mean used their product not a pissing match experience). i before have ran ebay parts, my old 240sx gave vipers a run until i crashed it drifting at the track lol. i am nit by any means putting down this business i just need to know truth. thanks in advance

i love the mention of colder climates. you have brought up a very valid point thas entirely possible. our low has been about 17 degrees at night. if need be, it will not be hard to replicate a tube from the exhaust into the air cleaner to act as a heater for the carb. i kinda thought about it, but now i am goingto put more thought and possible r&d into it lol

thanks for the links! i ended up ordering a kit. it should be here by next friday. im at 6000ft elevation so i hope base jetring works lol

Ok so i keep reading through the weber write up but my supplier told me i need all the jet sizes. I told him 140/140 for primaries and secondaries but he needs the idle jet size before shipping. Im not buying a "kit" so this is why i am asking for help

I get the occasional 4hi as well. Noob to terms here, but what is a pitch stopper?

Well i went to upickit and i managed to actually break the only Y fitting that was in the yard lol. However i now have a connect for brand new Y fittings, that go into the factory subaru carbs. I am ordering my Weber 3236 friday. Didnt buy a kit because i found buying it in pieces saves me $75 in the end. Also getting a 2-3.5 psi pump @28 gph. Should be running by next saturday, as its long days at work right now.

Hey jezek, my gl does not have the factory pump, the aftermarket electric one i have just burned up. I am looking for the best possible pump to use with a weber, any recomendations? Also i have no "Y" fitting on my 1987 GL. it has the feed fitting and the return fitting on the carb. Going to salvage yard today, hopefully to find the fitting as they have 3 brats and 3 gl's. If i cannot find the fitting, is it possible to put a relief regulator in and have the fuel return to the tank? I am new to electric pumps and carbs, always had mechanical pumps on my trucks. Thanks for being the "man" for webers, your help is putting my favoite car back on th road

On my EA82 carb, there is no Y fittig for the fuel lines. The carb has a seperate feed and seperate return. Can anybody shed some light on where i can get this Y fitting? I want to do it right, as in have a 9 psi pump that i may trade out for a 5 psi pump and not run a return line just like 2.7 loyale said in his write up. Of course if anybody has this good "Y" fitting i will pay money for one lol

Mine did this, i had my brother rebuild the carb. Ran good for a few weeks, now im getting rid of the craptachi and on the way to a weber swap. A rebuild is not worth it in my opinion. Throw it out, get a weber if you dont have emissions. If you do, get a new hitachi

How about through the firewall? Im thinking right above the clutch cable hole. I can kinda keep it hidden. Oh and i dont know if it is supposed to have it, but my ea82 does have a manual choke mount built into the dashboard! I didnt think the USA models would have it, but mine does. I will take pictures and post soon

As the title states, wheres the best place to drill the hole for a manual choke? Getting a weber with a manual choke and i cannot seem to find a pre drilled hole somewhere i can use. I dont want to drill into anything on the backside of the firewall. Any pictures of any sort will help. My car is an ea82 gl wagon 4wd and i live in the USA so steering is on the left hand side. Thanks in advance

Thanks again! I am in the USA but that picture of the choke sure makes me want to do some customizing! The USA doesnt ever get anything cool....

I finished the write up and am very pleased with it. Thank you.I went the route of getting the single adapter plate, it is beautiful and cant wait to get my weber, however i have a few questions. Since i already have the single adapter, can i buy just the linkage and use a 32/36 with a manual choke? I dont want to buy the "kit" if i dont need it. I can get a manual choke 3236 weber with air filter box and the "short" filter for $250 and they will install the 140/140 jets.

Not to thread jack but i am in the process of getting a weber too. I took the advice in the writeup and bought the transdapt 2107 adapter plate. I have a few questions, do the kits come with the throttle linkage? Also instead of routing a hose into the airbox, could we use a breather filter instead? Also i have a 3-9 psi pump, should i keep this or get the 3-7 psi pump?

18" hg is a good standard vaccuum, however the bobbing, even with random vatiations tells me you've got oil leaking into the cylinder, thus producing a high emissions reading. The needlde should be steady, unless the car us cammed (if it is ill take some). Do a leakdown test, it will tell you if you have blow by

How does it run with the airbox completely removed? I know it sounds stupid, but i sucked up a plastic grocery bag in my 03 pontiac airbox, blocked almost all air from getting in and the car ran horrible. Might look into seeing if there is a passage blockage. Also if it runs good without a box you can narrow down your search

Hey scott did you do a tilt t non tilt?

Thanks i will definitely look into the plugs and wiring