Wildem

Is there any way to go about dropping and changing the tank without removing the entire frame?

Sorry ive been gone so long guys. BUT i did find my problem. Leaking moonroof. It would fill up the floor and wash the computer. Relocated tothe glovebox and fixed the leak. No more issues!!! Always keep in mind the computer sits on the floor if you notice any moisture!!!

I havent had any issues since swapping the MAF, this doesnt really convince me as its only been 2 days but its off to a good start,better than anything else ive tried. I still havent had so much as a hiccup from the car.The wires were put on after the problem had already been happening for a while, like i said i was chasing this issue with no pending or stored codes .

Ill report back in a few days to let you guys know if it actually fixed it

Swapped the maf out for a spare i had on the shed and now its only +/- .08 Wasnt a dirty maf but a bad one.

Fuel filter is new, stft is kindof all over the board at idle, as low as 0 to -7.0 but for the most part hangs around-3/-5. Using vpower plugs, duralast wires. I cleaned the MAF it is reading .5lb/min

Ive just gotten to the shop so i will check back. in with the results

1997 4eat is in pan filter. not screw on.

New plugs, new wires, new coil. Plug holes arent filling up with oil, Cleaned every plug in the bay and on the transmission with air and used dielectric on every single one. Ive tried to sea foam it But the problem just persists. It only feels as though it happens when the transmission is cold. I drove all day yesterday after it had initially done it in the morning, about 10 miles in is when it stopped and drove normal. I drove all around the state, car on and off for different ammounts of time each. Im going to take it this morning and change the fluid and filter but i am afraid to flush it at near 200k.

Lately ive been having issues with my phase 1 ej22 swapped wagon. It seems to be worse when the engine is cold but is sometimes still present even after the engine has come to full temp. Ive done a little research into it and from what i can see no one really has any difinitive answers as to what actually fixed it and what was just a bandaid until it came back. When accelerating i will feel a huge loss of power as if it dropped 2 cylinders, high pitch whistle, and sputtering. Now heres where it gets weird. When the car is in nuetral or park it runs perfect. This only happens in all forward gears and reverse. I can accelerate the car very VERY slowly without causing it to happen and once i am up to speed its fine. Any normal ammount of pressure to take off from a stop light or sign will cause it to fall on its face but If i force the car to down shift (bring the rpms past 2500) and let off the pedal until im barely putting any pressure on, the car lurches back to life and takes off like a rocket. This problem seems to be mainly from 1000-2500 rpms. Only code i have is for the evap canister purge ( havent changed the hoses on the intake for in-bay canister). Transmission fluid level is good and fluid doesnt smell terrible. Im pretty stumped on this.

Wont be on the road. Its a drift car.my stock pipe was rotted completely away. I litterally just need to pass emissions so i can tow it on the dolly. And like i said its a drift car so obv its already rwd i dont want anyone chiming in with " you cant use a dolly" i know everyone here is kindof against robbing a subie of its all wheel but personally i think its a blast.

SOLVED. Jdm cam gears are not the same as usdm. The sensor will not read the jdm gear. Solution: Swapped the gears over to the usdm ones (yes timing marks are still the same aswell as keyway)

Wont let me attach a picture but if anyone runs into that after swapping to non acvs 207 heads, the marks on the cam gear for the sensor are not the same as the 205.

Well thats good to know. As i said the car isnt being driven on the roads so im not worried after i take it to get tested. but you do need a registration for a tow dolly in my state.

Actually i havent, Pulled the sprockets off the 207 heads and swapped them with my sprockets and sensor. Runs fine.

Non acvs. Ej207 heads,ej205 intake and harness. Upon first startup i recieved a p0340 and p0171. Cleared it came right back so i decided to take a ride.bad bucking,no power, backfiring, i used the cam sensor that came with the heads. Timing is good. My question is am i going to need to go straight for a tune being im running different cams than the computer knows?

Trying to pass emissions. Everything else is on the car is fine but the cat is deleted. Shop said theyll run it if i can turn off the rear o2 code Was thinking of just going this route but will the computer not catch that its just been turned off? Im not worried about it being legal i just need a registration to tow it on the dolly. But ive run into a bigger issue with a p0340 and p0171 after installing my new engine with 207 heads. Bucks like hell, no power, backfires,changed the sensor and tested the battery and still turns on right at startup.

Does anyone know of any company that is still in business that supplies them? Or have a diagram to wire one up? Ive been endlessly searching google and keep coming up to dead links trying to find either.

Was one owner car and he never had the head gaskets done. I looked it up and it said it could be tensioner slack and when i started it up it idled fine. I am now facing a much deeper issue as the car will idle completely fine but at 1500 rpm it develops a slight tapping and then at 2k it turns into a knock. It doesnt sound solid and there are no flakes on the dipstick (ran a magnet on it to try and help anything stick) almost sounds like piston slap. I have it running in the driveway now and it has gone much longer than any other ej ive ever owned when they went. Is the collapsing guides an issue on the 2.0 as it was on older engines?

After marking out my belt and setting tension the passenger cams line back up each time but drivers side seems off half tooth? Belt was set according to 51teeth to driver 54.5 to passenger.

On my engine the position it is saying on the belt for both top cams are switched. Passenger is tooth on the belt Driver is tooth on the cam sprocket. This was making me confused trying to count out teeth but i think i got it.

Im trying to time my 02 wrx and I counted teeth according to the guide written by MEATY on nasoic but my timing marks for the cams seem to be the opposite position of inbetween/ on teeth. Can someone link a good diagram? For example right top (passenger) says it should be an inbetween on the belt but it is actually supposed to be a tooth. Thanks in advance!!!!

Parking brake is release and the rear wheels do turn. The vehicle came from a friend of mine's father who told me its been fwd since they have owned it. I have the AT oil light blinking on cold startup and upon installing the fuse still no light on the dash. Im assuming it is most likely the common duty c solenoid but i am having it scanned today to confirm. I will update with the results

I picked this car up for a steal because the owner just wanted it gone. However upon trying to get it out of its spot that it had sat i was spinning front tires only (Auto trans) .The driveshaft is still in place and the fuse for the fwd is not in. The light on the dash for fwd does not come on but it will not power the rear. Has anyone run into this before?