Wildem

When i changed my solenoid out for my MBC i changed all the lines just to have the new ones vs the old stiffer lines. When trying to dial in the mbc the car just would not boost. It would spit and sputter and go nowhere. So i decided to change back to the solenoid and again used new pieces of line ( i know, i know, i forgot about the restrictor pill)and it still ran the same until i put the line with the pill back on. My question is do i need to keep the line with the pill on even when the mbc is installed as well? Everything i have read says no. But it runs like dog s*** otherwise. Can anyone offer any advice on this?

Before I start , I understand how many people feel about this as well as the consequences that come along with it. With that being said it is simply not your car so please dont waste your time if you cant offer any information. 02 wrx , 04 center diff I am currently working on welding the center diff. I have removed everything and I'm ready to seal it back up. My question is actually regarding the front axles. Half the people who have done it say you have to remove the axles , the other half say its unnecessary. My confusion comes from taking a peak at the transmission. While the very tail end of the shaft only spins the front, the rear portion spins both front and rear. I have removed the front gear and the spider gears as well as the clutch pack, But i feel as though without removing the front axles i will still be putting power to the front. I may just be looking into it too hard but i cant seem to find any solid answers. Thanks in advance!

100% stock, one owner car and I know for a fact he didn’t have the intelligence to modify anything to make the car run perfect for 3 months and then out of the blue run like this, like I said, I reset the computer as well and ran it well over 300 miles so at this point if I had a misfire I’d be able to Atleast see it pending.

Yes i did, it’s showing no codes

The car feels as though it wants to keep building but it just maintains 5psi and “lags” per-say. This doesn’t happen all the time. It will be just out of no where mid drive it cuts off at 5psi and has low power. The car isn’t throwing any check engine lights for it and I’ve driven it well over 300 miles. I’ve changed the tubes on the back side of the intercooler as well as the gaskets in hopes it could be a leak but everything is tight.

Well guys I got a call from my friend asking to come take a look at this car. It's an 08 Impreza. The problem is the powersteering is making the most god aweful noise I have ever heard from a Subaru ( worse than when I had a rod squeak on my ej25d). The noise in question is coming directly from the pump. not really thinking much of it because subaru pumps go all the time I just threw the spare I had out of the parts car in. Same thing. I pulled the hoses back off and the pump was indeed full and pulling in fluid. But the whole rest of the system is aerated and I can't seem to find a leak any ideas?

I have 4 brand new 215/70/16 that I got for free , I was just trying to opt out of buying tires. It looked like it would just barely scrape by but they aren't mounted

I have 4 brand new 215/70/16 that I got for free , I was just trying to opt out of buying tires. It looked like it would just barely scrape by but they aren't mounted

I'm looking to change from the 215/60/16 to a set of 215/70/16. It looks like they will just barely fit. I know someone on here has done this. can anyone tell me if they clear the fenders at full lock? Or if they even clear the rear stuts?

Could the cable be too stretched out? The old clutch was driven until the rivets popped.

No because when I seperated the engine a second time I added two brand new j clips. And I tried adjusting the cable all the way back but it gets a half clutch and it sticks down. New cable?

Fork didn't look cracked when I cleaned it up along with the knob in the tranny

Yes the clutch pedal will move the fork but not the pressure plate it just seems like it doesn't meet

This car has a cable clutch. After replacing the clutch, flywheel, release bearing, and clips there is no pedal and the clutch is not useable. I've tried tightening up the cable but it does nothing. It's like there's too much room between the bearing and the clutch it just doesn't meet. (Clutch is 100% in correct way engine was just pulled to confirm)

I recently had my engine let go on me and upon running the car it sounded like the connecting rod let go(loud squeaks clunks misfire) whole 9. I changed to a sohc block and upon installing timing belt the engine seizes. With the belt off the crank and cams will spin freely. The engine will get 1/8 turn off timing marks and as soon as the intake is about to close and exhaust open on cyl #1 it locks. All pulleys on the timing belt move. Has anyone run into this before? From what I had read on here many people have done this swap successfully. If it were a bent valve I would assume the cam would just ride over it. Is there a difference in deck clearance between years of the sohc?

I have the 99 2.5 GT and the engines coming out of a 98outback

2.5

Will ej25D heads fit onto a single overhead block? I'm assuming since these engines were so mass produced it would work but has anyone tried this? The block in my car got crankwalk and I would rather have the engine I have spare than spend 400$ on a block.

In my last thread I explained the odd symptoms my car was displaying and just broke down and resealed the top end. Upon reinstalling the motor first start up I noticed a tick which sounded like the passenger side rear. I went ahead and pulled the valve covers off and checked the clearance on the lifter shims all were okay. The cams sprockets are tight, timing is perfectly aligned, head gasket issue was caught extremely early on so no overheating damage. Before the motor came apart it was not making this noise. Any suggestions?

I understand what you're saying Gary but the water does in fact come out cold. It's extremely puzzling. Every bit of fluid it will push out is cold not even warm. it's almost as if the pump works in the beginning and then stop out of nowhere. I did change over the pump when I put this engine in( this engine is a 98 DOHC , swapped main seals, cam seals, and changed over the timing belt.) I'm headed to the parts store to grab another thermo, and waterpump. I'm trying to avoid pulling the engine for a third time.

The car won't overheat unless it's driven for about an hour from dead cold temp will stay normal no matter the temp outside and after a long while it will start to slowly climb. When the heat begins to climb it's not air bubbles pushing out of the overflow nor is the fluid HOT. All the fluid that backs out is ice cold. It's as if the water isn't making its full cycle. I did the gas test as stated and after posting I went ahead and pulled the plugs none were wet, I ran a compression test on the cylinders and all came back fine, then ran a pressure test on the rad and that came back fine. theres no coolant leaking anywhere but from the overflow and that fluid is ice cold.

I have a 1999 legacy GT 2.5 that has recently been overheating. The coolant is pouring out of the overflow, while many would guess head gaskets, I ran a combustion gas test on the radiator and it came back negative. The coolant that backs out of the overflow is ice cold, and once the radiator cap is opened all the fluid sucks down into the radiator. While using a bubbling funnel the thermostat will open and it will continue to bubble like normal. Then the coolant will suddenly fill up the funnel and overflow. Summary: No combustion gasses leaking into coolant Waterpump spins New cap New thermostat No flow through engine Please Help