asavage

Oh, it wasn't ever really MY Loyale. The backstory is that I was the 2nd AND 4th owner of an '82 Datsun (remember Datsun?) Maxima (formerly 810) SW with the LD28 DIESEL engine, which was the 240/260/280Z engine block modified to an Inline-Six diesel. A very nice engine. I'd bought it from the original family in Portland, Ore. around 1996? When I was living in Bellingham, Wash. around 1999, I had two other diesels and three vehicles was at least one too many, so I sold the wagon to a co-worker. Later, around 2003, his new wife wanted a Subaru, I bought the Loyale and was fixing up some things before swapping it for my old Maxima wagon again. That's how I ended up working on that '93 Loyale. They had two kids, split up in an ugly divorce, and I lost track of him and the Loyale. Like so many things in life, I wonder where they are now.

Those links are long dead; the hosting service folded up over a decade ago. I've attached images to this post; hopefully, they'll stick around longer.

I obtained a faxed schematic from the dealer, who also claims that there is no six-wire int. module. He sent me a schematic for a '93 with eight wires, but the interesting thing is that, though there are no color codes for the wires, it's a real schematic of the internals of the module! No component values, but I can see what's there. Turns out that the eight-wire module is very very similar to the six-wire module. The extra two wires? For the "volume" pot (that's what Fuji calls it!). The PCBs are the same, and the six-wire has a fixed resistor instead of the extra two contacts, and about four components missing (a cap, two resistors, and a diode). What this means is that I could take an eight-wire module, put a fixed or variable resistor on the extra two terminals (if I knew the correct resistance range, if I had another Sub. around that had it) and use it. Anyway, now that I have an internal circuit diagram, I can see why this thing works when it does. I have the tool I wanted. But Jimmy crack corn . . . Subaru has none of these modules in the US, new ones in Japan only, $120. I decided to cut my losses and let the new owner deal with it. I've got other things to do. It is very likely to be the module itself, I'm guessing either a bad cap or a leaky diode on the latch timer, but I'm going to bypass the whole issue and just leave it be. I could shotgun replace the likely suspects in about an hour, but it's no longer important to me. I've got one eight-wire module (untested) and one six-wire module (definitely bad) as spares, laying side-by-side on my bench, and I think I'll put them in the junk bin. If anybody wants a poor copy of the dealer schematic for this, I've got it. It's a little better than nothing. Email me.

Sunday, I deliver the '93 Loyale wgn to the new owners in Bellingham (Wash.), and another chapter closes. I want to express my appreciation to all that helped me with both parts, information, and encouragement through the past seven months. Especially Skip, Turbone, XSNRG, and Cougar. This virtual community is an invaluable asset to those who work with Subarus. I am privileged to have known you all.

Just for reference: This is the gasket between the intake manifold and the SPFI throttle body. It can be had at NAPA. Echlin part No. 2-7769

It's not really my job, if you know what I mean. But if I get bored, or things are slow, I'll take some of these on. [snapping fingers]Hey, that's a good idea. I've wandered through the DVD for other Loyale models, but didn't think to check Legacy. Hmmm. I'll check that out tomorrow. Far more likely to be the switch than the wiring, unless somebody's been in there before me. I'm gonna check out the Legacy diagrams, and then I'll probably jumper in two test leads across the Int. position on the switch, and keep the 23 on the front seat (the 79 stays on the bench, it's too expensive for field work, or alternatively, I'm to cheap to let it outside.). Thanks for the Legacy idea.

Well, Gabe pulled one from a junkyard car in Maine, so it's not a known-good unit, but I think the likelihood of both having the same symptom is low, considering nobody else seems to have had this particular problem and reported it. Both are fine suggestions, but I was really, really hoping to have a real wiring diagram w/colors before I inverted myself and slipped under the dash. Sigh. Well, I guess I'll do it the hard way then. I so damned lazy. The problem with diagnosing it that way is that the problem with the intermittant system is intemittant, so I'll have to break out the harness and/or tack in test leads so that the next time it stutters, I can connect test gear when it happens. For example, right now, in sunny, dry weather, it works OK. But when I'm driving the thing, the next time it actually rains, it might work OK for a few minutes, then start acting up, and I'm not where I can easily invert myself and get under the dash. [Long, non-Subaru tale of woe follows; this is how I get to spend my Sunday afternoons.] I've just spent five hours off/on with a '91 DeVille "Passkey" system (the early one with a choice of 15 different resistor pellets in the ign key, and a scanner module to read the key's resistance on insertion), what a nightmare. Got it working in bench mode, so tomorrow I get to come in and solder it all up and put the zillion interiour trim pieces back in place. I inherited it as a basket case from a tech who just went on vacation, and he and another tech have been throwing parts at it for about a week to get it to this state. What a mess. The initial problem was intermittant no-start, which a modicum of internet research would have found that the leads to the ign lock cylinder are frail and become frayed and short to ground. That was the real problem, but these guys jumpered and crosswired the enable relay and several grounds to get the thing from an intermittant no-start to a solid no-start. The other techs bought a new GM Passkey module, plugged it in, and it immediately trained to the old ign key -- except the old ign key was on a sorta-shorted lock cylinder harness, so it trained to the wrong value. Still no-start. $250 shot to hell. So I first had to undo all their wiring patches, then find a nice pot to sub the key resistor values, breakout the harness, and start dialing for dollars. Naturally, the system sets a timeout timer on unsuccessful key operation with the wrong key: three minutes. What nobody tells you is that it appears to be a non-volatile counter: you have to let it count down with the power applied, and the first time through the 15 values, I wasn't disconnecting the DMM, which apparently skewed the circuit resistance enough to baffle the module. Anyway --- got it, finally. Then I had to run through the whole chart of resistance values again to figure out what value the new Passkey module trained to, otherwise the new module is useless to *anybody*. These modules will only train once. Now I've got a "spare" $250 GM Passkey (I) module with a (now) known resistor value, so if I need one, all I have to do is have two ign keys made with the old key cut but new resistor value, to match the new module's train value. Arrgh. Anybody need a GM Passkey (I) module? I'll make them a helluva deal. [Passkey grew up to be Passkey II, the apparently either Passkey III or Passlock, it's unclear. Those systems get more sophisticated.]

Thanks, again, Richard, but no-go. I, too, have the Mitchell DVD set, as well as the Alldata set. When neither Mitchell nor Alldata showed an Int. wiper schematic, I went looking a few years either side of '93, trying to find one, and came across the one you have. The pic you attached is too low-res to make out much, but I can tell this much: it's got the eight-wire Int. module (upper right). The later units are six-wire, and are different from the eight-wire ones. Physically, the eight-wire module will plug into the six-wire system, but it doesn't work in that combo -- I know, I own both modules (Thanks, Turbone!). That's why I'm trying to find someone who has the FSM -- Alldata & Mitchell do not show Int. wiper information for '93 Loyale series.

$8.99 (or $5.99) is a very good price for nitrile, but . . . I just remembered a disaster we had last year. The guy who orders our gloves got the bright idea to save some big $$$ and order them via the internet instead of getting them delivered from the local parts store as usual. So he bought a case of some cheap-rump roast latex gloves, and they were really, really flimsy . . . but oh, so cheap. We've still got a couple boxes of them left, in a closet somewhere. Everybody refuses to wear them. The brand? "GlowMaster". I don't make this siht up. The latex ones we use that are pretty decent are "diamond-grip" something-or-other. They hold up reasonably well, they're not the best but they're only $8.99/100. I think the nitrile ones I buy are not that brand, and they can be re-used quite a bit, whereas the latex ones are toast once you take them off.

On my '93, the frequency is not adjustable. The interval is very close to five-six seconds.

Yes, the connectors on both the module and the motor are in good condition. I cannot check current at the connector without a wiring diagram -- this system is too complex to guess what wire is supposed to have what current. Hence, I need the correct docs. With six wires coming out of the int module, I'd have to take a couple hours to write my own schematic in order to debug it. I would much prefer to work with the FSM wiring diagram.

Unfortunately, no.That diagram has no "Int" setting, and no intermittant module -- I have that diagram already. See the switch table? The one you've attached has these modes: Mist Off 1 2 W (washer) The one I need would have "Int" between Off and 1. Thanks for trying!

I'm pretty sure that an '88 FSM won't have the info. I say this, because I pulled the int. wiper module from Turbone's '88, and not only was it in a different location, it has eight wires to the module (mine has six). And the module doesn't work in my system, though it will plug in. Thanks, anyway.

I did that, first thing. Mine looks like new under the cover, the grease is nice and yellow and not caked, circular strips very clean. I moved some of the grease around to get into the worm drive better, and buttoned it back up. No change. Also, I layed the spare wiper motor on the strut tower and plugged it in, ran it, and it stoped/started in intermittant mode just the same. I don't think it's the wiper motor, if two do the same thing, and the one I opened up looks perfect. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

I am going out of my freakin' mind here. My '93 Loyale has intermittant wipers. The switch/stalk reads Off Int Lo Hi (or something like that) When using "Int", the wipers will often take two or three jerks to get across the glass. I can clearly hear the intermittant module's relay clicking on & off. Works fine in Lo & Hi. I've swapped the wiper motor (Thanks, Turbone) and the Intermittant Wiper Module (Thanks, Gabe), and it still does it. I don't have a FSM. I've been looking to buy one for less than $200 and have failed. Alldata refuses to acknowledge that the '93 has the optional intermittant wipers; it only has a wiring diagram for the Lo/Hi system. Please! If somebody has a FSM for Loyale/GL for close to '93, and has a wiring diagram for an intermittant wiper system where the module has six wires (and not eight), I will pay any reasonable amount to get a copy of that diagram. Email me at the address in the sig. Before I lose it completely.