awdonry

Thank you! I guess 181 +-36 is the correct one. I'll torque it to proper value tomorrow morning.

thanks, I torqued those 2 bolts to 80ft lbs, I wont drive it until I find the right spec.

oh that nut, I didn't remove that nut. I just did the 2 17 or 19mm at the "ears". My apologies. That nut you mentioned is 180lbs, what about the other 2? I thought those 2 was 181. I can't imagine those being more than 80ftlbs

Crap! I didn't not mark anything, I didn't know I had to. I actually removed the lca and knuckle one piece last week since I couldn't split the knuckle off the balljoint. (brought it to a shop for the bearings). What happens if I didn't mark it?

Hi guys, I just wanted to confirm torque specs on a lower control arm for a 98 impreza, Also is there a specific way to torque them? Like does the car have to be off the jackstands to properly set the settings? control arm front mount nut/bolt: 72 ft-lb (98 Nm) control arm rear mount bolts: 181 ft-lb (245 Nm) control arm to sway bar endlink: 21.7 ft-lb (29 Nm) control arm to ball joint: 29 ft-lb (39 Nm) swaybar endlink to swaybar: 32.5 ft-lb (44 Nm) ball joint pinch bolt (on knuckle): 36 ft-lb (49 Nm)

Well I was going to get the OEM axle rebuilt but the shop said they cannot. The outer spline/threaded part is fucked up so they won't touch it. Unfortunately Subaru Canada doesn't sell just the outer shaft anymore, saying discontinued. I'll probably get a new OEM one now.

Update: me and my buddy had to remove the lca, knuckle, and axle all on 1 piece. I could not seperate the balljoint from the lca. After removing everything I had enough room to swing a hammer to hit the balljoint lose. My buddy took it home as he has a press, and it worked. Not %100 sure if the wheel bearing is damage from all the hitting and the press. It spins, no movement in/out, and doesn't grind.

Ah **** I whacked it at least 12 times with a 4*4 wood blockin front of the spline. Man I hope I didn't damage anything in the transmission. I removed the pin, it wasn't bad with the proper punch. First time attempting axles. Thanks. I was going to bring it to a independent shop for a rebuild/reboot. I don't think I have the know how to do it myself. On the plus side I found 2 OEM axle with the boot intact local. I may just get 1 rebuilt/reboot and keep 1 as a spare.

Thanks, yeah I marked and removed the strut bolts. The axle is stuck. Before you hit it with the hammer, did you disconnect the axle from the transmission?

Hey guys, I'm in the process of removing my axle on a 98 impreza. So far I got the 32mm axle nut off. Now before I continue, I put a piece of wood on the spline shaft, and tried to hammer it to see if it moves. Well it doesn't want to move at all. The axle should be compress a bit, and it should move if I hit it with a hammer? I don't want to continue if it's stuck. Or do I have to unbolt the 2 Bolts on the strut, and undo the pin and remove the inner stub off the tranny for it to move?

sorry i was in a hurry to type that. yes its the top fill pull.

I removed the fill plug while the rear wheels were jacked up, I stuck my pinky in there and there was fluid, I then lowered the car back with the fill plug still off. The fluid leaked out when the car was leveled. That means it is full? I took a syringe and syphoned out 20ml of fluid and it looks the same as the new motul 300 i had laying around. I'll do a drain a fill once I pick up a new bottle.

Thanks for helping. Yeah I did noticed the caps and apologize. It's a rhd 98 Impreza STi wagon. So if I jack all 4 wheels up and the rear wheels still spin freely without too much effort I should be clear? I may take the advice of looking for a used unit. I'll see how much fluid is left.

Yeah I just noticed this during my 5k oil change. IF there is still fluid after I remove the drain plug the internal "should" be ok? If it is indeed done, I should be hearing clunking noise or none at all? Well the unit is a jdm R160 so it will be a pretty penny.

Sorry I was looking at it and it was infront of me so I put front. Here are some pics, pretty much the whole unit is covered. How bad does it look? I think i'll park this until i get this sorted or atleast have time to check the fluid. The area where the drive shaft is has no fluid, but I will double check when I get home from work.

hey guys, I recently noticed the rear half, and bottom front(drain bolt) of the rear diff is covered in fluid. the diff has about 152k kms, and had its fluid changed out 30k kms ago. (motul 300) Other than the drain/fill bolts and cover, is there any other possible way it can leak? Also, is 30000 kms still ok for the fluid?

The plug I used was from a wrecker, which was very clean, no melted or burnt pins. I guess I could look for another one. I will try this, did you use the same gauge wire? The car came with a grounding kit I will take try and take a picture tomorrow. Could I splice the ground from the pump harness and add a 2nd wire to the chassis(pump cover bolt? So keep the original ground but also ground it from the screw?

Could I splice the ground and add another wire to a chassis ground?

Well few months later the pump was acting up again. My car barely ran, maybe on 1 cylinder, the pump did not activate at a parking lot. I pulled out the terminal on the pump assembly, and blew it with some electrical cleaner(good thing I had it). The car started right up. I rechecked the connection under the rear seat, and they are clean, not melted. Another Subaru owner noticed me fiddling with my pump, and he helped me out. Suggested that it's probably a bad ground which I thought I fixed. The guy said I could splice into the ground wire and tap a new wire into it, and ground it on the fuel pump assemble cover's screw. Does that sound right? Is there any other way to fix a ground?

Thank you. I will leave it as is. I'll just do the oil change next time!

I managed to get a 20ml syringe. Took me 5-10mins to remove 100ml (0.1qt). I'll try again tmw, i don't have great lighting in the garage.

Thanks! As far as I know my garage is level. I had it built, concrete poured 2 years ago. I don't have clear tubing, but I do have 3 ft of left over black vacuum hose. I will try to use that, I just need to get a syringe so I'll try the 24hr pharmacy and try to get it done tonight.

OK thanks matt167! One side is at the top of the notch, the other side to the Full hole, but with a streak of oil on the edge. Probably from the pick up tube? So the first time you pull the dip stick you wipe it clean. Then reinsert the stick back and the 2nd time you pull it out it should be accurate? I did it 4-5 times and the oil kept on getting higher and higher.

Hey guys I have a 98 impreza wagon with the ej20k engine. I've read online that it takes 4.5L (4.8qt). I took it to the local Subaru dealership to get an oil change since I work 1 block from it. This was friday. I gave them a 5L jug of oil (5.2q) and they confirmed with me they will use appx 4.5L (4.8qt). Well I picked up the car since I was in a little rush to pick up my son from school, I didn't check if they put the remaming oil in the trunk. I got home and forgot to check the oil dipstick. So 8hrs later I checked the oil, engine cold, and it was above the full mark dot. It was up to the top of the notch. Is 5.2qt classified as overfilled?

Update, I found 2 harnesses at the wrecker. I bought 2 of them, had to cut them as I just needed the terminal. I depinned my old one and boy, that ground one had melted plastic inside the contacts. I had to destroy the old terminal/connector to get it out. I cleaned all the contacts and used a small wirebrush. I still have the cut wires from the wrecker, which the contacts look clean. When I have time I will cut the old ground wire and solder a cleaner contact/wire. It fires up sooner that before, no more hard starts.