Bratastick

Permatex #3 aviation sealer is the ticket. Does not harden and provides a great seal. Just brush it on both side of the gasket and it stays in place and provides good sealing. I always use it on water pumps and thermostats.

I bought a set from rockauto for the front of my brat and they were perfect. The were Beck Arnley for a gen2 brat

I'm thinking there's a pretty good wad of stuff in there since the lever only goes about half way. Cleaned one out of my Ramber when I got it that was huge. Filled up the bottom of a 5 gal. bucket.

Well, at least they have been. Lots of evidence that I have vacuumed up and cleaned. Unfortunately now I'm discovering that the heater control lever will only go part way. The fan works great and blows lovely smelling rat nest odors. I'm pretty sure they have been in the duct work and have a nice little mouse pad, probably with photos on the walls and lots of furniture. It's been sitting for 25 years so plenty of time for decorating. Is there any way to clean out something like that without having to disassemble the whole dash? I can't see a way.

Just looking for something similar to stock. The only ones I'm coming up with are the Gabriel brand. I was hoping I could at least find some KYB.

I could probably make the front work with a little tweaking. I don't have e mud flaps unfortunately so it's rubbing on the fender itself and the plastic liner

it's the outside corner of the tire hitting the rear of the wheel opening on the right side when turning right, and the outside front corner hitting the front part of the fender on the left side. Does the same when turning left just opposite tires. Does a little more when turning right than left. I think a spacer would make it worse.When I measured the backspacing they were about 1/2" shy of what I wanted, but only a 5.5" rim width. These are aluminum.

Apparently the A1 Cardone distributors are not rebuilt to Ea81 Hitachi standards. I ordered a second one just for the heck of it and it performed the same way as the first. They seem to be mechanically sound, but the coil is not compatible. I pulled the coil out of my old distributor and replaced the one in their "rebuilt" one, I'm now getting good fire and it appears as though it's going to work fine. Buyer beware. Their part number is: 31-810 and Amazon and rockauto sell them as well as other outlets.

I haven't had the front suspension out so I don't know about the top hats. I haven't actually gotten to run it yet. I figure the struts will need to be replaced, but wanted to get it up and running before jumping into that. I'm guessing they are original from the factory. BTW, they reason I went for the 6 lug 14" with 195/70 is that I had read a number of threads where they worked just perfect. Unfortunately on this Brat, no.

I converted my hubs/drums to 6 lug and located some nice D50 14" wheels and felt pretty good about everything. Ordered in some 195/70-14 tires that I'm pleased with and they mount up and look great. Clearance on the rear of of 82' Brat is close but will work fine. Fronts not so much. I'm getting interference on the fronts when turning. A little of the front part of the fender and more on the rear. The standard shocks are adjusted as high as they go. Question is will a 2" lift on the front fix the issue? And, if I do that can I just lift the suspension only? It would level out the look which I would like. I've read through a bunch of threads but get differing opinions as to whether it will work on a Brat. I think I could make up a simple suspension lift using some of the info here, but don't want to fool with it if in the end it's not enough or leads to a more involved set of issues.

I was afraid of that. Anybody got a part number I can check on?

I need a passenger side latch assembly. Are they available? My interior is grey. The plastic is broken maybe the metal part too. Not sure how it goes.

Now that I have everything hooked up, the new carb is on everything should be set for blast off. BUT now I don't have any spark. No spark at the plugs. No spark directly from the coil. This thing ran on the old carb three weeks ago. Only thing I've changed is the reman distributor. I'm thinking the pickup coil in the rebuilt dist is no good? I put an ohm meter on it and it showed 4.3 or so M ohms. My old dist coil shows about .9M ohms. Neither match what the book says but the old one did at least run. Am I thinking this through correctly? I've pulled the tach wire off the negative post to make sure it's not grounding out. The lead wires to the dist. check out ok.

Got the A1 Cardone reman dist in yesterday. Definitely much tighter than my old one. Seems to be set up and adjusted correctly. Got it installed, haven't run it yet.

and if you have room you can double up on the vise grips with one butted up right next to the first one.

Got'er all done and installed last night. Coated the inside with epoxy, did a pressure test and no leaks. Bigger project than anticipated, but it should be good for a while.

I'm converting from a Carter to a weber. I have most of it complete just hooking up the fuel lines now. In looking back through Weber conversion threads,most when upgrading from the Hitachi use the fuel inlet off their old carb which has the built in Y for fuel return. The Carter has a completely different fuel hook up, but it does have a Y on then end. My plan was to cut the Y out and use it. When cleaning it up I noticed the return side is blocked up with only a tiny return hole, almost a pin hole size return. Is this also how the Hitachi works? I would have thought it should have a full "bore" return. Just making sure before I drill this one out to full bore.

kinda what I figured. The service manual says to set the air gap at .020 I think, and there's not way this is going to let that happen. There was MORE slop than that.

As I was replacing the rotor I noticed that there was a good bit of slop side to side in the distributor shaft. Didn't look right so I pulled the dist. out and took it apart. I ran it for a few minutes a couple of weeks ago and it seemed to run ok after some initial sputtering, but previous to that it hasn't run in 25 years. Its got 100K. Couldn't see much of any lubrication in that section. Is this slop normal? Doesn't look like there is much of a bushing that can be replaced on the upper end. Lower end seems fine. Looked on Rockauto for parts, but not much there. Cardone offers a rebuilt one, but really don't want one that's in poorer shape than I have now and don't know the quality of their rebuilds.

I need a new Subaru GL badge for my tailgate.Are those still available? Mine looks like a squirrel has been chewing on it.

Where did you find a header to fit?

did you get the universal linkage kit? Seems like some end up using parts from the old carb? Unfortunately I'm replacing a Carter so not sure if the linkage kit will be of much benefit more than what I could fabricate on my own. I have the proper manifold, but I'm thinking the throttle cable attaches on the opposite side of the engine compared to the Hitachi.

Just looked at carbs unlimited. Wonder if those are jetted correctly, or the same as the redline kits?

Looking around, need to buy one for my 82 Brat. Looks like Ebay has several vendors, there's also a couple on Amazon. I don't really think you can go by the photos. I would like one that has a single piece mounting adapter if possible. I don't want a Chinese knock off. Anyone suggest a reputable supplier?

thank you for your participation