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Everything posted by Megell
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28,000 miles on a wheel bearing is absurdly low for a new car unless your tires are on the outside of your fenders. They better cover it under warranty. BTW, my other car is a restored 87 Comanche 4x4, 4.0, 5 spd. with 4" lift. I'm Colorado too, on the western slope. What flavor is your Jeep. Sorry, didn't mean to hijact this thread, but just curious about my neighbors. Mike
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One of the three upgrades to my 91ss includes, new paint, new alloy rims, and window tinting. On Ebay they have premium precut kits window tinting kits to fit various cars including my Sub. Question is: has anyone on this board used this tint kit and have any comments. I'm thinking of bidding one and just doing the tinting myself and save a couple of hundred $$. I've never done it myself, but if you start with clean windows (and some beers, of course) and make sure all the bubbles are squeeged out, how hard can it be. Mike
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Thanks guys, I appreciate all that great information, especially the unsprung weight link and the picture of Skips 91ss. It's really inspirational to see what others have done to their Sports Sedans. The three most wanted upgrades for my 91SS is Paint (which I am working on right now), Wheels ( I should have waited to put on brand new 15" rubber on the old turbo wheels, Drat!) and window tint (which I am bidding on ebay). Although money is an issue right now, I am hoping for a quick sale of my mountain cabin/property (showing it perspective buyer this morning (wish me luck). Then I'll have the $$ to do whatever I want to the car. Meanwhile as I try to recover from the suggestion of cutting down on my daily beer allotment (double Gasp!)(not that me wifey and my cat wouldn't agree with you)....I remain inspired to improve my new ride thanks to all the great information from this forum. Mike
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I am looking to replace the stock alloy rims on my 91 Legacy ss. I want to keep 15" on the car instead of larger wheels. Tire Rack has some 5 spoke alloys that weigh 13.5 lbs and another set that I liked are 15.4 lbs. That's nearly two lbs difference per wheel. I am leaning torward the lighter of the two because is seems that it takes less engergy to turn a lighter wheel that a heavier one. What would you guys choose? Is that 7+ lbs really that much difference. Thanks for your opinions. Mike
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I have a "grinding" sound on my 91 Legacy ss at certain RPM's. Sometimes accelerating from a stop and especially on de-acceleration, but I know it's the heat shields on the exhaust, which is common for Subarus. Have you tried revving the engine in neutral slowly to see if you hear a similar vibration or noise that might indicate something other than drivetrain vibs? Mike
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As a side note on Amsoil 25K change, installing the Amsoil two stage filter system, it will keep the oil clean for the entire duration of 25K. Turbo motors seems to foul the oil a little sooner than non-turbos, so I change my synthetic oil around 2500 mi or when it looks dirty, since I don't have the two stage filter system.
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I have a 91 Legacy ss, 5spd manual. Turbo is noticable, but not noisey. I have checked mileage on every tank (8-10 tanks so far), pumped from the same station and same pump. The lowest around town has been 19.5 with a heavy right foot, Highway is 31.1 driving 65 mph with a couple of bursts to 80 mph. Average around town with gentle driving has been in the 22 to 23 mpg. I was amazed at the 31.1 figure. I live at over 7000' alt. Mike
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Synthetic oil does not "cause" oil leaks. It will however find it's way out through high mileage seals because of it's higher "cleansing" and "slicker" properties of the oil, thus removing some of the fossil oil buildup "crud" from around the seals that was otherwise actually helping to "seal". At least that's been my past experience as a mechanic for an Amsoil dealer. If it makes you feel any better, I just changed to synthetic on my "new" 91 Legacy ss with 163K and no leaks so far after 2500 mi, except for the passenger side VC near the turbo that was already starting to leak. Mike
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I don't know about anyone else, I don't care for automatic seat belts. Maybe because they are so noisey when you turn on the ignition to start the car, or there kinda "in the way" or maybe it was that one time I had a cup of fresh coffee in my hand and wound up wearing it when I started the car. (I wasn't use to ASB's) The right side ASB is broken and I had to cut the cable as it was hanging down and in the way. I ordered one from Ebay thinking I would replace it. However, now, I'm thinking of somehow deactivating my drivers side belt in the "closed door" position and just hooking the belt in manually so that I can start my car in peace and quiet for a change. Doe's anybody know how to do this? Fuse, if there is one? etc; Appreciate any ideas or suggestions. Thanks, Edit: Sorry, I meant to say Automatic shoulder belts, not seat belts. Mike
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Update! I removed the two lower hinge screws at the bottom of the box, but it just hung there and wouldn't release from the latch and I stilll couldn't reach my stuff because of the shape of the box. So I put a little more pulling effort thinking I might break the latch, but at least I wouldn't tear up the dash. It finally came loose and took the latch apart to see what happened to it and basically it is just worn or loose tumblers. Why on earth a glove box lock tumbler would wear out, after all it's not like using the ignition switch every time you start the car. BTW, after playing with the lock it turns out that the two keys will work (sorta, sometimes), but on on one side of the key only. Thanks for help guys, Mike
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My drivers side door outside key lock quit working the other day (the key just spins), so I thought I would lock my checkbook, CC cards, License, my bag of jewelry (that I make & sell) etc; in the glove box....Now it wount open, keys go in but won't turn. Help, I need to pay some bills. Thanks in advance, Mike
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The last time I "bashed" Penzoil, I got scolded and was told to get into the 21st century, but I have to totally agree with Meeky Moose on not using Penzoil in a Subaru because of possible clogging of oil passages. I don't know if Shell makes Penzoil or have improved it in any way, but I remember being able to tell a Penzoil engine just by taking off the oil filler cap, rebuilds generally exposed a rather "caked" on black crud all over the inside of the motor. I still to this day do not use Penzoil for "anything" because of my past experience rebuilding engines. Don't mean to offend anybody, but this is just my opinion. Mike
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Since you live in CA. You shouldn't have too much problem finding a good tinter. I had my 90 Loyale turbo sedan done in Laguna beach and they did a great job and treated me just like people that owned the Bimmers and Mercedes that I parked next too. Reasonable too, I thought. $275. You know that they know what their doing if they tint the expensive cars. I live in CO. and there seems to be a good tinter over in Durango. I had my Brat done there and they did a good job for $125. Mike
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It sure would be nice, for once, if "the honorable thing" to do was the choice, instead of...umm...the other one that seems so dominant so much in todays world. I have much more repect for someone standing behind their mistake (?) than someone avoiding it. If Japanese culture, is about respect and honor. They are the same meaning to me. So much for the past. Mike