XHighOctanex

92 loyale 2 inch adf lift it's been aligned, good tires, wheels are centered, my one bad caliper I replaced, new rotors new pads new wheel bearings new axles new tie rods new balljoints car still shakes violently after 40mph. It's getting to where I don't even want to drive the car 40 the steering wheel starts to shake getting pretty aggressive then the faster you go the wheel stops but then the whole car starts to shake.

So what exactly is it like to pull one of these motors? I've pulled newer subaru motors a few times at work, but never this old, nor have I been inside a flat engine. If I'm doing headgaskets I'm going to go through everything and refresh the entire engine as I want to know it's not going to blow something else in a few weeks. I did the timing belts once already but didn't do the tensioners so I'll get a whole kit this time, and I know i need a clutch, bearings, rings, gaskets, hone the cylinders, might do lifters since I did get a lifter knock a while back from low oil but they aren't too expensive might as well while it's out. Basically I just want to save the crank pistons and rods and I'll just clean everything up. Anyways the original question lol how hard is it to pull these?

I have to have fumes coming into my coolant from somewhere, the block tests failed meaning somewhere it's mixing. I'm just wondering if the intake leak shows on a block test

Hey everyone, so after a round trip of around 140 miles to sf and back for a subiewerks meet my car might have a blown headgasket. Ea82 with about 182k miles only ever got hot before when going up steep roads into the hills and would pull over before it ever hit the red to let it cool down. So drove through sf no issues drove through mill Valley no issued but in the traffic almost home car got. Real hot about what it gets in the hills near home not the red but hot. Panicking I got off the freeway and it cooled down while driving. Every stoplight though or would climb. Made it to my girlfriends house without it getting to where it was on the freeway, checked the oil looked fine, low but above the middle of the add and full line. Checked coolant pretty pressurized but not too much came out when I took the cap off, I filled it up and it was over a half gallon low. After that didn't get hot driving home stayed pretty cool actually, drove it to my dad's shop today and it stayed cool again. Block checked it and after a few pumps it filled the pump and turned yellow. So my question is originally I went straight to head gasket, but as the car runs pretty normal despite the check engine light on a little more than normal always turned off and in but now it's on more than off. Could it be an intake gasket? Still haven't seen anything in the oil haven't checked the coolant yet but tomorrow I'm gonna drain the oil and check it a little more thorough. I read intake gaskets seem to be prone and definitely easier. If u do headgaskets it's either A pull the motor and full rebuild, or B thrown some stop leak into it and drive it until I've gathered the parts and money for an ej swap. If it could be just an intake gasket I'll definitely do those ASAP. Ideas?

I got it lights work again but my seat belt is still bad, guess I gotta follow that now

Hey everyone was wondering if anyone knows where the drivers side door sensor is? I have looked through the Chilton manual and so far still havent found it and a google result has brought not much of anything. It started with my seat belt working less and less and then eventually rarely ever worked, now my light doesn't come on the dash when the door is open and the dome light doesn't come on. Sometimes it will just pop on and stay on sometimes it will just pop on and then shut off and the seat belt will just move a little then stop or go back.

Got a winch and the lift on In these pictures I actually had the front coil spacers on the wrong sides. Fixed that the next day. After the fix Still haven't gotten around to fixing those damned lights, been doin everything but haha That bumper is the stock bumper with all the plastic and styrofoam removed with the stock bolts replaced with grade 8 bolts and the winch bolted to a plate that is welded to the bottom of the bumper, couple test runs seems pretty strong, definitely beefing it up eventually and adding onto the bumper.

Do you make just a subframe lowering kit for a 2inch kit but by itself? Say I wanted to add the drop down the road

I had them swapped so I had to pull them back out and switch sides all fixed now, pain in the rump roast to do that lower balljoint though

So I installed an adf 2 inch lift last night and neither front block was marked l or r which way we're they supposed to go in, they're done now but I've got some nasty positive camber and I know it takes time to settle but I want to make sure they're in right does it slope in our outwards of the car towards motor from the strut or towards the wheel. I could find pictures.

So I went with the 2 inch ADF lift with 205-75-15 general grabber at2s on redrilled mazda rims from a b2600i. Stock after some mudding These are the Mazda wheels Not lifted yet but I got the wheels done painted and the tires on and did a little bit of cutting As of today my lift should go out within a day or so, still have lot's of little things to do, wheel bearings and rotors are tomorrow, need to adjust my pods so they are aligned and then aim them, decide about bumpers, tranny mounts, motor mounts, torque mount, new rear axles, find me a d/r to swap in, decide whether to completely reseal the ea motor or just go straight into building an ej, leaning towards resealing the ea with all gaskets, bearings, and rings. Really would like to make it to socal this year with the car and don't think I trust the motor as it sits even though it hasn't given me reason to that's a pretty deep drive, and I don't think I could finish an ej swap start to finish right now in time.

If it feels like it's pulling in one direction my car did the exact thing and slowly got worse. I learned when it was too late the side it was pulling too was the stronger cv axle. Learned it when the left side finally blew out on me and had to drive home in 4wd. Car shakes maybe not too violent but violent enough on deceleration starts out almost as if it's warped rotors? Slowly gets worse, maybe will even turn the wheel at around 1-8mph coasting? CV axle opposite the side it's pulling. At least from what I experienced.

My I know my tach is run real weird it's literally a timing light style clamp on one of my wires but it works still, and power steering doesn't work but didn't work even before the wire broke. I'll see if I can get it in the air today or follow the wire from the ground

I have an o2 like that? I still have an o2 in my exhaust where exactly before after or on cat I don't remember but I do have an o2

Hello, I have a 92 loyale 4wd wagon. Since I got this car I have had this little sensor or something hanging under the car attached to a bracket. Me being me I meant to wire tie it up before my first trip with the car, but of course I forgot as I rushed to pack the car and do other things like change the oil and do brakes and what not. So now this sensor has finally been ziptied up out of the way but not before a wire has been torn off of it. Car seems to run fine, check engine light comes on randomly but goes away if I floor it. Anyways I would like to figure out what this is and how urgent it is to fix it.

I found the sneaky little guy thank you very much

I can not find my dipstick, 92 loyale 5 speed 4wd? I'll keep looking

Not the most urgent thing but I'm at the shop doing my rear end and Transaxle fluids and I got the rear end done but I can't find the fill for the Transaxle I haven't drained it yet but I have found the drain. Gave Google and searched in here can anyone tell me where the fill is??? Help quick please would like to go home haha.

When I burned the fuseable in my first datsun truck I just put an in line fuse in. Just judge your amperage accordingly and keep it safe I would assume.

If I do the 2 inch I can do 1 inch drop and then do the 2 inch springs n stuff do those affect or no? Like would I have to actually drop 2-3inches instead?

I was planning on the lowering.

What do you think of a 2inch sjr lift and a 2 inch spring and shock lift on 27s? Final plans are a car that can adventure most trails and still drive hundreds of miles.

1992 subaru loyale wagon 5 speed So now that my car is officially road legal and running good, I of course want to build my trail machine. I've Googled and Google, but I can't find anything about lifting it other than the kits by sjr. I saw the 2 other guys but they don't seem to make them anymore. So my first choice is sjr. I want to go up 4 inches and throw some 27s in the car. My question is can I do any other type of lift besides just those kits. I'd like to get a 2 inch lift kit and then spring lift it 2 more inches or close to. Is there a way I could do that? If so what would I use and what do I have to do to make it work?

Car actually passed smogged and registered today. finally legal on the road

Same as last post if anyone was wondering, I got a maf and temp sensor from the junkyard today and check engine light is gone. Hasn't come back since idles smoother. It's a different style though it doesn't perfectly line up but I modified it and it seems to work perfectly fine for now. Gonna go on a good run up n down the freeway and see if the light comes back but doesn't feel like it. Also was able to get my rear window and the gasket I had with the car so I'm ready to get this thing legal in the next week or so.