XHighOctanex

Dang, if you find any ill pay for them, the ones from the car I got the lights from were all cracked and broken and I'd rather run none than broken ones lol

Yea the wet battery isn't staying. It's my old battery, originally it was going to be the second battery BUT since the only good way to mount a dual battery is sideways I swapped it out for the optima since it's gel. I plan on getting a second yellowtop or maybe a redtop since they're a little cheaper. Next step will be the power brick to run everything off my yellowtop, and I want to add 100-120amp inline fuses before and after the solenoid because safety. Question tho, I need side markers for the dl lights, do any 80s work or just 85-89? And along with that do you have any?

Lights all work, and put my dual battery in. I ended up using Bryan dudas' spot to mount it. Was getting very frustrated trying to find somewhere to fit a second battery on this car. Looked at his since it's the only loyale I know with a dbs. Need to build a hold down but it will works good

Did the dl headlight swap, although I didn't get the side markers so going to have to get a pair. Also got the factory spoiler, and put in some legacy cup holders. Tomorrow I do my dual battery setup and wire in the headlights!

Good pic of the camber lifestyle I had for a day. I drove to my shop like this which was the next freeway exit and then a couple more blocks.

I thought I had one more trip lol. I was wrong. The giveaway should of been the clunking that came from a bearing not an axle once in a while????

I honestly have to take full blame for this issue. I knew the bearing has been going for months now, but didn't want to disable the car right before a big trip, even if that meant making it safer for the big trip lol. You can see how burnt the rear bearing race was from my constant ignoring. I always tell people who talk bad on subarus that they don't have all these problems when they're properly taken care of and I let myself slip on that. Glad I got it done and definitely taught myself my own lesson

The nut itself actually wasn't that bad, but the leverage I just couldn't get good on the ground. If I put it on the lift in the first place and did it, I probably could have got it. But MUCH easier with a socket, way worth either finding or making one. Driving the car home in a few minutes so far has felt awesome. Only issues is that I'm gonna need pads and probably a rotor, but I'll do both of course. When it grenaded everything fell on the brakes and the rotor rubbed on the caliper bracket and the bolts and ain't lookin great. I did drive it off the freeway and a couple blocks to my shop lol but worth it

Car should be driving in the next like hour or so, got some other work to do to other cars, but the arm is back together just gotta do the seals and that rear nut. These bearings are actually super simple and I'll probably so the other side soon.

Clean it up, new grease, reinstall it. 20k at least on this puppy. The cage by the way is cracked in half and I'm missing about half the bearings

Update, today got the rear nut off easy with the control arm off the car and a modified gm socket (2 prongs cut off) gonna send it to napa to have everything pressed and should be good

That was the plan, are you going???

I haven't found a good set yet in the junkyard. They're always shot bearings or axles seized onto the spindle

So this has now become an emergency situation. On the way to work today the bearing completely imploded and stranded me on the side of the freeway for about a half hour while I got the axle off and checked everything and limped the car to work. I'm supposed to be going on a trip this weekend and as always something has to break last minute. The entire bearing is garbage now, I have a new one and everything is loose but I'm gonna have to get that stupid nut off and hope I didn't hurt the spindle. Any recommendations?

You can see it is bent pretty much perfect, but I'm pretty sure the car I got the linkage from was screwed up because the shifter is off to the right like the actual bar is bent somewhere so I'll probably get another when I find one

Should both be 3.9 when in doubt count the ring and pinion and do some division

Yes I'll grab a couple before I go to work

Took it to a buddy's, used a forge bent easy it's in perfect now

I can't get it to get even close enough to bend with a map torch and a big mallet. I really don't know anyone who can extend it right away and I have a trip Friday. Looks like I'm not running a console this weekend

It's in my garage so I just won't throw it back on. Another quick question is now I can't go into 2wd with the console in the car, do I need to lengthen any linkage in particular or can I just heat up the 4wd shifter itself and add an upward bend to raise it up a bit?

Ohhh I thought it was like a crappy subframe stiffiner thing

So I dropped my subframe 1.5 inches today, legacy knuckle and all. blocks on the engine crossmember, blocks on the trans crossmember, and dropped the driveshaft center support half an inch. Well, my driveshaft hits the little brace that is underneath the tailshaft of the trans. I tried dropping the driveshaft another half inch and it looked like it was just worse. Should I just undrop the center support? Or is this something else that needs to be lowered? I have never seen anyone talk about it.

I finished my drop blocks today so I'm heading to the junkyard tomorrow for a legacy steering knuckle and various other stuff, so gonna get and get done ofthisr rear nuts off a couple gls there

Pretty sure it's too messed up now to use the socket, so not sure what I'm going to do about it. Have a 2hour drive to Fresno on the 22nd for a weekend camping trip and I'm going even if I have to run the bearing that's in it. Might just end up having to get another control arm from the junkyard and hunting down that socket to put the new bearing in that arm

I tried a hammer and a punch and just chewed the crap out of the nut it moved maybe an 1/8 of an inch and won't budge no matter what I try now