XHighOctanex

I have like no updated pictures of my car on here so here's one by the way everyone

Damn looks like I got a good paperweight then

Make my head feel better

I'm picking up another trans this weekend so I'll grab a set of hubs while I'm at it. And it's definitely more me worrying than the car. Like I said I've never had any trouble with the wheels being drilled as is. I still want to do the swap but I'll try redrilling some hubs and see if that feels any better. Also does anyone know if the parts to rebuild dual ranges are still available? My front diff sounds like an airplane over 35 so I'm going to pick up a junkyard trans that feels alright and either do bearings and synchros in that and if possible the diff or throw it in and rebuild mine.

I already have a 2inch lift, redrilled 15inch Mazda b2600i wheels with 27inch grabbers on them AND I did the rear disc conversion. And I just feel weird with redrilled wheels or hubs as it is I check my torque very frequently, even tho none have been loose yet, I really just want the 5lug for piece of mind and even better brakes. I'm picking up another dual range this weekend and having it rebuild as well as the front diff itself and getting another rear diff and rebuilding that. My ej25 I'm building is a full tear down motor new bearings new rings new gaskets cleaned up honed the cylinders new waterpump new timing kit. I just want to be able to drive my car anywhere I want and not worry about anything breaking. My redrilled wheels work great for drives around here to wheel and the occasional 3 hour drive to camp and wheel, but I want to be able to go states at a time for longer periods of time without worry. Also I have tracked down a complete 5lug swap my friend has I would just have to drove a few hours to pick it up

So Gloyale I believe it was brought it to my attention people don't usually 5lug swap on offroad cars. Why not? I am planning on driving this car quite far and I don't enjoy having redrilled wheels nor hubs. I cant find the 14s and would rather not run those now because I already have a pretty new set of 15inch grabbers. I can get stock foresters or even methods like every other offroad newer roo ever for wheels. Is there a reason not to 5lug swap? Also I have found everything I need for the swap I just have to pick it up from a buddy

Seals in between blocks, and do the rings (yes I know this doesn't require splitting the block not even sure why I mentioned it)

You might be able to fuss with the rods with the lower cover off but if you're doing an overhaul why not do main bearings and the seals in between blocks and rings?

Also I did the 4lug disc brake swap a while ago and I now have the back plates and cslipers and brackets off the xt6 too. I have pretty much the entire rear xt6 suspension just not the hubs or rotors

I've got redrilled 6lugs right now on the car, I wanted 5 lug because I don't expect to break any control arms but would like to be able to use wheels that don't have to be redrilled and I've always been afraid of redrilling the hubs themselves

So I was planning on doing a 5 lug swap as a buddy said he had everything but the rear control arms and struts. So I was told by a fellow member about an xt6 in Nevada that just showed up to the junkyard. Drove 3 hours there spent over 200$ On rear control arms and struts off the car. Hubs were already gone as expected but he said he had them. The entire front was still there almost got it but I'm broke and he has that. Anyways I didn't learn until I get home my friend has an ea81 car and I have an ea82 and that I don't even need these control arms or struts only the hubs. So now I'm stuck with xt6 rear junk that has axles rusted to the stub shafts. I tried soaking and hammering the axles off but all I did was destroy the insides and now the stub shafts wiggle around, maybe just bearings not sure. Is it worth trying to get these axles off and saving the parts? I'm not gonna run a swaybar so don't even gain anything from that. Pnp doesn't do refunds only in store credit so I csn go return it all and pickup another dual range if I wanted. Pretty pissed off right now I wasted so much money in gas and parts kind of lost hope on the car for a little bit

You should sell me just the 1inch drop setup if I don't trust my own building lol

They on stock outbacks? What years?

I must have been reason the fb20 spot on wiki lol the ej hp is right mine is a 04 forester or Impreza sohc I believe. But I have brand new sti rods and a brand new crank but the stock pistons

O damn hella long, I'm just waiting until I have time to go to the junkyard again, I don't even like my drop it's just steel spacers from ace I want to do long spacers that mate the entire crossmember and frame and drop the tranny. I just don't have time and I severely don't trust this car driving freeways. Wheel shakes like flipping crazy going down the freeway before the drop.

Wuuuut how much you got for an ej25 sohc? I just looked on wiki.

half an inch? no way I can look at the shaft and knuckle is all the way up on both ends. The only thing I'm worried about stressed at this small of a drop is my tranny mounts since I didnt lower anything besides the crossmember. I dont even think the steering shaft tried to move when I lowered.

All I did was 1/2 steel spacers on only the crossmember (the rubber makes up for the difference from the tranny mounts at this low drop) and the car already feels worlds different. I just put a reman rack in it and once I had a rack in good condition the steering felt stiff and like it was binding almost, and my steering wheel always vibrated like crazy at speed since I lifted it. Just a half inch was enough to eliminate my steering wheel vibration pretty much 100% and my steering feels much better. Now I plan on making a better set of spacers and dropping everything a little more, but for now this seems alright, and I did go stretch it out and wheel it a little to see how it acted and it does just as good as ever. Oh and with the half inch it's just enough to get the cv axles off the control arms when you lift the from of the car.

The FA makes a lot more power

from what I read they only make like 130 and the sohc ej25 makes 160

This'll be the first fb I've done, 2011 forester already has a rod knock from running out of oil. Got the motor out today, some slight differences from the standard ej. Be interesting putting the new motor together

Not after power just thinking of a cooler swap, I've already been told the ej25 is too much for my car and I refuse to swap trans I'm staying dual range. Looks like I'm sticking with the ej swap lol

Has anyone ever fb swapped an old subaru? We have in a forester at my work and there is no core on the short block once it's out. I have already acquired almost everything for my ej swap but future fb swap maybe? Would be nice for a chain.

Makes sense, I wasnt going to drop it but I'm tired of eating an axle per trip and I'm sometimes within 50 miles or less and yet I have new mounts and I'm decently gentle with the gas. I'd like to be able to drive this car long distances, it's been to Reno from Vacaville CA once and it ate an axle and blew another's boot

On a max 1.5inch drop? I want to run the legacy knuckle either way eventually just because I'll feel better, but if I don't need to worry yet that would be nice lol. I dropped the crossmember 1/2inch today just to get some kind of drop on there. I'm waiting to decide on how far I want to go before I so anything major. For now I through some good thick steel 1/2inch spacers in, and the car seems to feel better. I don't know how to explain it and I certainly hope it's not all in my head, but the car just seems to drive different. The biggest difference I can physically see is when I lift the car up and it's full drop in the wheels my axles no longer hit my control arms. I'll probably go 1.25inches with new bolts, make some nice drop blocks, and I'll run the legacy knuckle just so I feel better. But for now I'd like to see how everything goes with a baby drop