XHighOctanex

Damn, I only know of one person in town that got a ticket for a lightbar once but he also drives around yelling at people on a PA and drives like a jackass most the time so he had it coming. Other than that the area I live in doesn't really care for lights, I have a buddy with a Toyota who literally just has basically led pods for headlights on his daily driven truck. Cops here are more looking for anything lowered, super loud, and out burning tires. Lately we've had a huge jump in side shows here and out in the cuts and hills, one dude flipped his 240 a couple ago and ever since every import style car meet in town has been shut down, but still nothing against the lifted guys for lights or anything.

You missed the part where I said I don't drive this car around the city much at night at all, like maybe once a month. I also have an uncovered lightbar directly above my headlights and 2 rear facing pods and a rear facing halogen all uncovered. I have never gotten a ticket for anything short of speeding or parking violations. I doubt a quick glance from a cop on a once or twice night a month will result in anything. And the beam against my garage is actually more focused than the headlight. I am leaving everything in a way to where I can throw my stock lights in and out/plug and play swapable in minutes for the off chance I want to drive far at night incase I'm worried about harming someone. But again looking at the light next to my stocks I don't see much of a difference in brightness or pattern, I'm almost disappointed honestly. I will get pictures side by side for comparison once I believe they are appropriately aimed for you to see in the next few days. Also as to the dot part I did f up a little on that the bulb is dot/sae approved not just compliant BUT the housing itself does not say anything. So might have me there. Lemme get some pictures up before you start thinking I'm gonna get tickets or anything because really if it's that bad like I said I can swap the stocks in in minutes no wires are being cut the hole thing is 2 bolts and a plug.

On Hella's website they do mention these as dot compliant

Like I said I'll have to see what I can do with it, with lo power they really aren't much different than my stock lights, if I can get the wiring situation correct I believe there is a chance. I'll get a pic later when looking at the stock light and the Hellas the hella is only a little brighter and on the wall in my garage is a very clear indication of the circle of direct like and then of course some wider but it doesn't look bright enough to hurt. I'll get lots of pictures to compare when I get them aimed

Exactly, I'm not here to blind anyone just get a better vision and look on my car. Worst case this isn't my daily driver car and is definitely not driven much at night besides on trails and what not. I'll make sure I adjust them as best I can to avoid being on the same level as lifted trucks with hids or leds who don't adjust the lights and just end up shining straight in everyone's back windows lol hate those

It's not my daily driven car no but when aimed right they shouldn't be much different than the hids and LEDs that blind me every other night. I'm trying to aim them quite far down to avoid issues with other drivers, I'll end up aiming them in a parking lot based off of being face to a friends car instead of just the standard aim at a wall trick. When they aren't on high beams they are actually not too super bright. I'll get pictures when I get the resistor in.

This was just the mockup you can see the inner light is turned Another mockup but I believe they were tightened down to the mount in this picture the mount just wasn't bolted down. (trying to find where they had to be to fit below the hood.) Testing the wiring. Bolted in and wired up, they're high because I can't adjust them forward under the hood, but I found the remedy for that. Since the metal I used for the bracket is so thick if I can just bolt it below the current points I have it to now it should drop it enough to let me aim them. I'll do it tomorrow morning before I start work most likely. You can also see how bright they are (because that one beam is getting full high beam power, I'm going to try and just wire in a resistor like for leds in the morning too). All in all I dig the look so much can't wait to figure out what combo works for this side so I can do the other side. Ps. you can see the grille is tilted, yes that's because the lights hit the hood but again that should be fixed in the morning I just have to bend a tab out of the way and swap the mount position, and no I will not be driving this at night until I am sure they are aimed correctly, I'm not trying to blind anyone.

Hey everyone so I got 1 side mounted and wired in for the most part. My issue now is that the car thinks that side is blown out, I learned last time I blew a headlight that the car switches to high beams when a bulb is blown. So now on low beams the 1 light is getting extra power and is very bright, and the dash has the high beam indicator on and when I turn on high beams it dims. Everything works but the car is confused. Could this be because I only have one side done and it can tell there is a difference in power between the driver and passenger side? It seems to be like when you put LEDs as turn signals in a car that is unable to run them, the turn signal simply wont work until you adapt it to use them. Is there something I can wire in to do the same thing?

Oh and on my car the plugs with green and plain black were the headlights

So I did the headlights today, nothing much to add to them other than the black/white in the bottom right corner of the plugs when the push release is on top is the all time power, the small black wire is ground.

Hey everyone, I have read through JacksonRally's socal wheeler thread over and over and everytime I look at his headlights I want them. My passenger light has been broken for a long time and water gets in and for how much I like the rounds I don't car for fixing the stocks. It came down between the DL quads or the hella quads and the hellas were chosen. My question is, has anyone else actually done it? They look perfect on the loyales and was wondering if anyone else had a little write up or knowledge into the swap. I have the bosch relays to swap in I have just been lazy, other than that figured it's just some wire finessing and mounting of the lights.

Get a pair of vice grips on as tight as possible then use a hammer on the vice grips. I've done it many a times it works. If the grips slip off just make em tighter.

Lol my only issue with mine was man made... long story short use engine stands not plastic chairs, but yea supposedly the dohc and sohc will fit in an 82 just not the 81s without notching.

I thought that was just ea81s? I saw the same concerns on another couple posts but then they had others saying that the ea82 is wider and can fit any subie motor without modification

I've seen pdfs for ea to ej22 obd1 but I am looking for an ea to ej25 obd2. Just acquired my second 2.5 this one has everything just a blown headgasket but I also have a brand new headgasket kit and it might just get a full rebuild anyways. So starting my checklist now.

I live on row 52 half the time. That's how I found my shjft linkage for the dual range all the the way in Carson city Nevada. Fun trip. Didn't realize turbos were rare and had disc brakes there was one there and like 3 or 4 other ea82s.rip

Who's Front control arms do I use?

I'll do that when I get home from work today

Hey everyone I just wanted to throw in some extra stuff I feel would be helpful to be added when looking into doing the roundy to bosch relay swap that Bumble Beast did a very good write up of. I am beginning to do the swap and actually just did the power window relay today and will be doing the rest in the coming days. This is just add ons I feel would be helpful when doing the swap yourself that I either missed in his first write up or that aren't on there. All credit goes to him on how to do this. Bumble's post (Check it out first) ---> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ Since so far I have only done the windows I can only comment on that first and I'll do more replies to this as I go. So first off, the location of the relay is very easy and he does point you in the correct spot but to be exact as to where it is. The relay is located directly under the seat next to the door. You must take the passenger seat, the front kick panel in front of the door, pull the retainers for the top carpet holder, the 3 clips for the lower, and the screws for the lower. THEN peel back the carpet to reveal the relay. Again not a big thing just I spent a couple minutes looking for it, but I can be slow in the head. The lower cover really just has to be removed to get to the screw that holds the relay in place. K, so this part I actually do hope some people find a little useful. When I went to test for which wire was which, white was all time power, black was ground, but red and green/white BOTH came on with ignition hot and didn't ever change. SO, I looked up a wiring diagram and it showed red as switch and green/white as ign power. Well they were wrong, luckily I didn't just solder everything and go with it. I taped everything together so I could test it and of course nothing happened. So I changed those 2 and heard the relay click and then retaped them and like magic the windows worked. WIRES Red - IGN hot Green/white stripe - Switch White - All time power Black - ground Again a small thing but hopefully it'll save some time for you guys. (I did go kind of recklessly into this and cut everything instead of going 1 at a time, oh and side note anyone wondering, a 5 pin ((at least the ones I used****) can be used in place of the 4 pin that SHOULD be used. 87A is just a reverse power so leaving it taped up doesn't hurt anything.) And lastly here is a picture of the relay all in and done, good soldering, heat shrinking, and taped. **The exposed wire on the ground I noticed after I finished and it has been taped up all is well, didn't realize my heat shrink was too short until it was too late. All in all I haven't had much time to test them out but they do seem a little more, responsive, I guess the word would be. They're not like night and day, but I'm also pretty sure it's just time for new motors anyways. The only clear observation I can give is normally I used to have to pull my passenger side window up after half way and now it a little more than crawled it's way up. So they do help in some way. Hope this has helped, when I do the other relays I'll post anything I think would help with them as I go.

So based off of what everyone has said I'm going to try 2 things, either warrantying my axles one more time and doing the silicone and new grease. Then I'll collect for the 5 lug swap which was my plan anyways. And as to how I drive the car I know by far I beat on those axles, they're troopers. The only axle I haven't replaced is that passenger rear which is still stock! Even the driver side I only replaced once for the first time a few weeks ago. What is the easiest and most effective way to do the 5 lug swap? I've seen a few different ways, what is the best and most effective? I'd like to run ej as I feel they'll be more readily available.

I thought 2inches was max before requiring the subframe lowered? And I am planning on lowering it, but decided if I want to just lower it the inch or wait and maybe lift the car more and drop it then.

And since I just ranted on the poor thing here's some pictures, bae still cute even when it pisses me off. From a wheelin trip with my roommate.

92 loyale with 88 gl dual range trans, 2 inch adf lift, 27 inch grabbers. So I bought this car in November, did a set of front axles because they were bad. Put my tires on, put my lift on... few weeks go by, put a set of axles on because of shaking. Few weeks go by do axles, ball joints, and tie rods because of shaking again. Blew a headgasket pulled the motor and trans swapped the trans to the dual range yadda yadda did a set of axles. Few weeks have gone by and my passenger axle is about to explode again. This will be my 7th axle in less than 6 months. So finally today I had my Orielly's order in a pair of Heavy Duty axles, also going to do both motor and both tranny mounts while I'm at it just so I know for a fact they're done. Neither looked terrible when everything was out of the car but I'm not risking it. Anyways has anyone had much experience with the HD axles? I've seen 1 post on them and they kinda went back and forth on them. The ad seems really nice that they can take more angles and more expansion and what not. If after mounts and HDs (which I will double check for grease and makes sure the boots aren't going to tear right away), I'm going to have to look into other options. How does the 5 lug swap work out with axles? People running the fwd impreza axles, do those do better? Just need some form of solution, I'm not expecting years but I would like a couple months instead of a couple weeks between axles.

If you pull the tops of the heads apart there is a site that sells rebuilt HLAs or will rebuild yours. Search around you'll find a topic or two that mentions the website, that's how I learned about it.

I also have the fel pro gasket kit if that helps at all lol