XHighOctanex

Thank you very much I can calm down now

1992 lifted subaru loyale ea82, I recently overheated my motor and blew a headgasket. So I pulled the motor did the dual range trans swap and resealed the top end. I resurfaced my heads at home and didn't touch my oil pump (I know everyone says to do the oil pump but I have an ej I'm building to swap, this is just very temporary, plus, I have never seemed to have an issue with my oil system in anyway.) Anyways I installed a mechanical temp gauge and electric fan instead of my mech one, and have been having issues with what a safe temp should be. From all my research into it everyone just talks about the stock gauge and says whatever it normally is dont let it get too much higher. Well, what is an actual number for a safe temp? I've hit 220 and been terrified because I don't know where these engines are supposed to sit. On my stock gauge it would stay maybe a quarter until I put a lot of stress on the engine then it would climb to 3/4 or so (I've never gotten it to the red on my stock gauge). I have a radiator arriving tomorrow, I have a new water pump (cast propeller not the flimsy one I saw talked about), new rad hoses, new radiator cap, and a new thermostat that is not a stant or OEM, But as for I went with a 170 thermo I'm also going to drill a couple small holes in the top of it so a little water always flows anyways. I had issues even when stock going up the hills close by me and am trying to do everything to combat that while I wait for my ej swap. Back to my question what is a safe temp where should I start to get worried?

So removed my thermostat today while I flush my cooling system. Getting my radiator Thursday same with oem thermostat, already have a water pump, rad hoses, new cap, doing everything. Anyways so I thought I unplugged it, didn't, then broke off a nipple. Brought it inside to fix it and saw one side was already broken. What is it and can I just fix the one port and plug off the other until I junkyard another?

oh lol my bad, normally I try to post what I have before ever topic but I was pretty frustrated when I made this haha.

It's the ea81 axles that were discontinued wasn't it?

Lol all good man, I read it too after I saw your comment and confused myself ????

So me and my buddy Alex, he's on here, have been talking the last few weeks and we believe we have come up with the way to solve most cv axle issued. The one I'm most proud with is the rear cv delete. Anyone who has seen a c2 corvette up close has seen that they don't have cv axles. They have little driveshafts instead. So what if we made stub axles that instead of a spline on the outside really had a plate to bolt a driveshaft to. Or a splined section that slides over the stock stub and has the plate on that so you just roll pin that in and it's secure then bolt the driveshaft to it. Any driveshaft place can make a driveshaft with double cardon joints and a slip yoke in the middle. In my head I feel like this would eliminate most if not all issues that these stock and increasingly hard to find cv axles cause after lifting one of these cars. Note the fronts we have not figured out how would work with the limited space yet so mainly focusing on the rears right now. Any input is greatly appreciated him and I are trying to find out ways to take these cars up a notch so please chime in.

We've had that issue a couple times at the shop here. A legacy we could only get so much pin out, so we cut it flush and knocked it into the inner splines so we could pull the axle off then knock the rest out. I would have suspected that on mine but these axles looked original lol.

Damn near, sorry was super tired, basically was trying to say, no they aren't discontinued. You can get brand new import directs from oriellys, at least where I am.

And on the 92s? Brand new import direct axles quite a few actually available here within a day or 2 3 at the 1 day store and a bunch at the farther stores orielly is my second home lol

I got it guys, took a break then had to pull the shoes apart and found out my wheel cylinder was freezing up so got it to loosen and the drum slid right on drove the car all is good now. In the next day or so I'm doing an entire cooling system I have a water pump a 170 thermostat new hoses and getting a new radiator. After that I'm going to start tackling what I want to do about my breaks and possibly my suspension and brakes all around.

So I just spent almost 8 hours just trying to do a simple rear axle. axle was clunking I've done the fronts so many times figured the backs should be easy. Bought an axle, went out this morning and was completely wrong. First it was getting the brake drum off, after breaking a lug stud the drum just wouldn't come off. After hammering and hammering it finally wiggled off, cool whatever. Then it was getting the roll pins out of the old axle. I hate roll pins with a passion and refuse to use them, when I replace the axles on this car I just put really big cotter pins back in and have not had any issues and makes replacing the axle next time much easier. After spending many hours on getting the outer pin out, had to drill it and hit it with an array of things including rollpin punches, then the axle wouldn't slide off. So another hour or 2 hammering it with a sledge hammer and some wd40 it finally came out. So now I'm at the point where my new axle is in everything went together fine until the drum. The drum refuses to slide onto the shoes. There is a lip always on one side of it of shoe that it just hits and won't go over. Now I have had this apart before when I put the new studs in it before I put my all terrains on the car and it came off and on super easy, haven't touched it since. I have been trying for around a half and hour and everytime one side fits the other doesn't. I can't find where to adjust the shoes and I can't do anything. I'm over today and I'm over this car right now but tomorrow I need to be able to take it to the shop I work at so I can get my radiator and replace my entire cooling system tomorrow night. Anyone know how to get this drum back over the shoes? Please

I know this topic isn't super popular but figured I'd update. Blew a headgasket so pulled the motor to reseal the top end, while it was out was able to get Alex (with the loyale wagon Stan) to pick me up a transmission down in LA because the place is closed during weekdays. Then went to Carson City to get the linkage for it. Got a Yakima roof rack, moved 2 pods to the rear, the other 2 are going to get moved to the back of the hood, new lightbar up front (will be protected by a bumper once it is done). Also replaced the mech fan with an electric one This guy's crosstrek is awesome, he blew his front diff and an axle and randomly ended up at my dad's shop where I work most of the week. lifted 2 inches, primitive skid plates and rear diff plate. Thing is awesome and super cool guy Also my front pods are getting moved to the back of the hood like his soon. And I'm currently working on installing new mechanical gauges and then cleaning up wiring with a fuse block under the hood just for accessories and switch panel under the radio. I'll get pictures when I'm done with those. Lastly, from time of pulling the motor to end was 3-12 --- 3-27

imho if you're going to be running bigger tires anyways the subframe drop is much worth it. I have just the 2inch lift no lowering kit (yet) and before I swapped my d/r in I beat the crap out of the single range push button and the swap marked my 3rd set of axles in probably 2ish months or so. Also without the lowering kit the bottom balljoint is a real pits to get back in. I have to use a ratchet strap with a d hook on one end to pull the axle and the opposite control arm together to get my balljoint in, all while having someone hold pressure on a prybar to get the arm low enough and then guiding it in at the same time.

Hey everyone, 1992 loyale wagon ea82 just finished "lightly" going through my motor and keyword lightly, as in headgaskets intake gaskets cam seals and stuff like that only never split the block or even dropped the pan. Anyways I also swapped in a dual range trans and I just drove the car tonight for the first time since I started this 3 weeks ago. The shifter seems to be pointed towards the driver side and farther to the right. I have pulled and reinserted subaru transmissions before and I pulled this linkage off the car at the junkyard and pulled my old one and trans out at home so I''m not really a beginner. I looked over the linkage many times tried flipping stuff around but it seems to be correct. Anyone have pictures of the linkage in the correct way?

Oh my Lord it does look like a clutch cable piece. Can anyone confirm?

It looks almost like the top of a lifter but bigger and I don't recall 100% it just fell off I when I took one of my heads off. I ignored it at the time which was a mistake because now I worry about it

This

So I took my motor apart about a week n a half ago and this little guy just fell idk where from. Going together now need to know where it goes.

Before I pull the motor I'm going to throw the stock wheels up front to see for sure if it's axle or wheel

I'm on my second set of import direct orielly axles, first set had no issue then when I did the ball joints and tie rods I warrantied the axles just because I knew I'd need to. I'll probably warranty them in a week or 2 or sooner if I don't find anything else to fix the shake

I haven't actually thought about that I'll take it to a place tomorrow

Oh yes, both rotors replaced and the caliper was replaced because of a bad rear seal by the ebrake

The nuts have been checked yes it has a slight pull to the right so I'm starting to lean towards junk passenger axle