Cyama

Thanks! Would a phase two swap work fine too?

Would a 2001 impreza with the 2.2 NA motor be suitable for this swap? What is considered a phase one EJ22?

Where can I source new lifters for the EA82?

Thanks for everyone's input. I would venture to guess it's one of the nicer ones still on the road. Being a Nevada car it has zero rust along the fenders and tailgate where I see alot of other loyales suffer. Anyway enough about that. I don't think it's ever had the cam tower o rings replaced. I resealed the oil pump at the time I replace the water pump and belt. I guess I didn't go far enough with the cam towers.

I have resurrected my Loyale 4WD with the 3EAT auto trans. I replaced the timing belt while I was trying to address the low oil pressure problem. Since a new oil pump is not available, I replace the mickey mouse gasket and water pump. Even though oil pressure improved a little, the valves clatter intermittently, even when oil pressure is up. What is the remedy? I want to make a plan and gather the necessary parts before hand. In addition, are there some modifications I can make to gain additional horsepower?

Thank you for this info. How do you test the CTS? I was thinking of heating the sensor in boiling water to measure resistance at temp?

Thanks for the clarification Bennie. The morse code is what I was trying to communicate.

Hi Guys, I've been intermittently having a check engine light and lately its been a little more steady. I pulled the cover on the dash and plugged in the white terminals to read the light on the ecu. 92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo It sends the following: _ _ _ oo _ _ _ oooo _ _ o So is that: 32 O2 sensor 34 EGR Solenoid 21 Coolant Temp Sensor Do I need to replace all of these sensors, or is one relate to the other?

Hi Guys, I've been intermittently having a check engine light and lately its been a little more steady. I pulled the cover on the dash and plugged in the white terminals to read the light on the ecu. 92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo It sends the following: _ _ _ oo _ _ _ oooo _ _ o So is that: 32 O2 sensor 34 EGR Solenoid 21 Coolant Temp Sensor Do I need to replace all of these sensors, or is one relate to the other?

Thanks Bennie. I agree, it's alot of work to take care of the tick. I love the car, but for long term driveability the low hp is hard to accept. I'm at 5000 ft altitude and climbing the mountain to 8800 is tough on it and the line of people behind me. If I could get another 20 horses, I think it would be a pretty good car. Its great to get a few thumbs up from old school skiers.

Thank you for all of your help! BTW, when you say you went EJ, does this mean you swapped an EJ motor? IF you did this, what is the best donor car to perform this swap?

I would try replacing the oil pump, but since they aren't available, and the gasket replacement seemed to increase my oil pressure, I'm thinking it's something in the head.

While I'm inside the cam towers, should I replace any other parts while I'm there?

Those O rings on the cam carrier. Does that job require the entire timing belt disassembly, or can it get them from the valve covers?

When I replaced the oil pump gasket, I also replaced the shaft seal and other o rings that came with the kit. At cold startup, the gauge is reading about 50. When the temp rises, the oil still barely reads above 0. The clatter sometimes happens at idle but not always. Sometimes I hear it when the car is running about 1500 rpm and the oil pressure is at 45. It may clatter at higher speeds, but its difficult to hear with the engine winding up and other road noise. It seems to clatter and then stops. It is sporadic when it starts and stops, but I have noticed it getting louder over the past year of running the car. Other than that, the engine has been running smooth.

Thank you!

I have noticed the check engine light intermittently lighting up. Sometimes in the morning and sometimes while it's warmed up. If there is a problem in the morning the car is a little harder to start like the choke isn't working. Of course it's efi, so that doesn't make sense, but maybe it's the cold start injector or something like that. If it lights up when the car is warm it really doesn't have any power, like it's in limp mode. how can I read the codes, or does someone have ideas on this symptom?

I recently replace the timing belt, water pump and changed the oil pump mouse gasket as a recent maintenance project. Before I did this the valves were clattering, but they still clatter after this work was done. The oil pressure is better, but still low especially at idle. When running at about 2000 rpm the oil psi sometimes runs over 45 psi and the clatter intermittently starts and stops. It also intermittently starts and stops at idle. The noise has become louder over the past few months. Are there any solutions?

I'm working on a '92 Loyale with a/c. It seems that any selection I make on the HVAC panel the a/c compressor is always running. I noticed this when I was running the heater and I can hear the compressor pull on the engine. Is this a feature of this model? I recall some cars would run the a/c compressor during defrost to help dehumidify the air, but not in the heat mode.