RunsWithMoose

just wonted to update this for any one else . that was the solution, to help make it clear for all. the connector mentioned is correct, the wires at car side are the 2 most center. thickest in that connector. black /white and black/yellow. at the selector side thay are bolth black /yellow. just bridge the to together as mentioned above and it will give you starter at the key as intended. thank you

one other thing. i was able to stick that carb on the car without a kit, the accelerator cable mount fit with a little massaging and the base plate was fabd by hand from 3 peaces. one aluminum 1/2 flat sheet. was left over from a aluma boat build. and the other 2 peaces where UHM deck board. and had made gaskets between all 3 and a set of studs instaled upside down in the carb. so no kit is needed just the carb. was mounted on the factory ea81 intake. hood had to have a "turbo bump" added to the center to allow the carb to clear. looked cool. intake was polished to help the flow split right. the coolent jet was a problem. took a few trys to get it to all seal up there.

i dont know if this has be mentioned but i had a 84 gl that i stuffed a used weber . 34/36 i believe. tons and tons of power. an some times the secondrey would stick and spin my 15s threw 1 and 2nd getting a cherp out of 3rd. awesome right? well not so fast. the draft from that beast on my car at 25F or colder would cause a nasty ice problem . never solved this problem after yeas of playing with her threw the summer. same car also had 2inch duel exhaust . so if you live in a cold place, it could end your winter driver

91 loyal . ea82 sing port. auto 3at convert to 5spd 4wd dual range. converted this car to a stick. was fun, car drives great. tell shes warm. at first blew code for bypass air control at throttle body. changed it. no code now but after full temp the silinoid on it sticks wide open alowing air threw. same as old one that blew code. new one does not but still same problem. is it realated to the auto 3at i took out? has factory 3at car harness in it, swapped in a ecu from a parts car that was equipped with a 5spd single range ideas or thoughts plz? other things about this car. eng was donor from a spfi single range. pulled it an stuffed it in a 88 gl with a carb. had to drill an set in the heat tubes at exast ports at head. later this car creams 2 moose. then owner shows up with creamed car and a mostly rust free auto ea82. wonts his 5spd and his block an heads from wrecked car. used the intake and exhast system from new auto car, and left the auto harness in car. every thing else was swapped out from eather the wrecked 88 or one of 2 90 loyals that are parts cars. bolth parts cars are ea82 spfi 5spd single rang.

hello, thought id share my experience in here. i own and work on mostly subarus in alaska, i have used belts on my car, almost always do. 258k miles on it had it from 142k . 3 belts from there to now and im hard on that car. reason i use used belts is i work on a lot of subarus . have a wall full of used belts. distributor can break the belt. the bearing set in it can be bad and not show tell its hot. long drives or long idle periods. also seen them lock up in cold conditions. 10F or colder. if the belt is not installed right, slap allowed will tear teeth off. so will dumping the clutch at a high rpm. how to you drive your car? like a law abiding citizen or watch this an hold my beer? oil pumps can also creat a lot of drag although this is much rarer of a issue also how are you installing that belt? use the single idler gear with the one 14mm bolt to get belt back on. if you slip it on with force you could be damaging a tooth and helping the ware right along. and the no cover is a terrible idea. dabre bouncing around the bay could end up in the belt set. seen that many times

awesome thanks for the fast replies. was the direction i was leaning just wonted some direction before i attempted something that wasn't a great idea

hello there all. i have a issue im hoping one of you have solved in the past took a 91 loyel auto 3at out and put in a 88gl 5sp 4wd dual range from a ea82 carbd car that killed 2 moose. mod went great. car feels awesome. helps with the chop and 15ich tires added as well but my problem is the starter excite from ignition the old car was a carb without a 02 and without a neutral safety switch mount on the peddle mount, and it seams there isnt a wire pigtail in the auto trans harness still in the car. so my though is to try to fool the auto trans selector plug at the floor to believe its in park or neutral so that the key will engage the starter an i can give this thing back. any ideas or thoughts? or pin out info in the large selector plug?

hello there. many mods under my belt including this one. did it to my 85 gl wagon. 1.8l ea81 4spd 4wd dual range. parts car was a 94 sedan, was totaled and most car was unrecognizable. was a turbo ea82 single port. 4door sedan with 5spd single range 4wd button style. you will need the rear backing plate out. the plate the rotor caliper and the line up to the body. pads. all bolts from there. a small piece will need to be crafted from the old line from the original car . cut and reflange it. should be easy to see after parts are bolted on, issues i did have, the backing plate bolts. 3 of them one with a nut. the 2 that do not have nut have a tendecey to break off. so have a spare rear arm or a welder handy. i welded the left side backing plate on my car. 2 bolts broke off and my spare was same story. 30kplus miles and welds work. bones theirs a massive breaking power difference, my thought is that he pressure required to make rear caliper break is less then that of a wheel cylinder giving you overkill pressure and amazing break power no need for massive rear over hall. can be done in 2 hours or less. one man tell a helper to bleed system

hello there. i have done his mod. this week. took a auto out. and put a 5spd 4wd dual range in its place. i started with a donor car. belong to one of my many subaru customers. hit 2 moose. took hit daily driver out and he need a new one. so it was part to the auto car. besides trans you will need, clutch cable, speedo cable. peddle set from car , all of it. pcm from one with a stick(if you wont idle to be tits). drive line. possibly rear dif. check ur numbers to make sure you have right one in car to match trans. interior parts , at least the rubber and metal ring to keep the snow out. and at least bolth CVs as the hub at trans is different size. now the one problem im having. the donar car was a ea82 with a carb, no 02. most importantly, no neutral safety switch on the peddle. now the 91 loyel would normal have one. but my peddle set doesn't have the bracket for it not does the harness have the plug to rig or bypass to start from key. my thought is maby fool the old plug at the trans selector on the floor. any input here?